[Photography] Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide

The post Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Do you know how and when to use Screen blend mode in Photoshop to improve your images? While you probably realize that you can change the blending modes of your layers, determining which mode to use each time can be tough.

To make the most of Screen blend mode, it’s important to understand how it works. In this article, I start by explaining what Screen is and what it does to your images; I then share when to use it for the best results, and I give you some practical examples, too. I close with a couple of extra tips to help you master the blend mode and use it to improve your Photoshop editing.

So if you’re ready to become a Screen master, then let’s dive right in!

What is Screen blend mode?

First things first: Photoshop allows you to work with layers of different types (including image layers and adjustment layers). You can make each of your layers interact with one another – and blend modes are the mechanisms that guide this interaction. In other words, by choosing different blend modes, you can ensure that your layers interact in different ways.

Now, Photoshop’s blend modes are divided into categories. Screen belongs to the Lighten category because it lightens images (more about that in a moment!). Technically speaking, Screen inverts, multiplies, and once again inverts the value of the pixels. Let’s see what this means in practice:

As the examples show – in which white, gray, and black layers are blended with my original flower file – Screen generally lightens the original image. However, if you use Screen to blend an image with a black layer, the colors won’t change – and if you use Screen to blend an image with a white layer, you’ll get a pure white result.

When should you use Screen blend mode?

Screen is useful in two main situations: When you want to adjust or correct your image, and when you want to do photo compositing. Let’s take a look at both scenarios in turn:

1. For photo editing

As I mentioned above, Screen blend mode lightens your image – which means it comes in handy when you have underexposed (i.e., too dark) photos.

Simply duplicate your image layer, then change the blend mode to Screen. Your photo will immediately lighten:

It’s also possible to use the Screen blend mode – in combination with the Multiply blend mode – to add contrast.

You see, Screen and Multiply are opposites, so when you have an image that’s dull or flat, you can duplicate the image twice. Then change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and the blend mode to Multiply on the other!

All you need to do is duplicate the image two times. Change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and Multiply on the other, and your image will gain a bit of contrast.

2. For photo compositing

In the first section of this article, I showed you how black pixels won’t have any effect on your image when you use the Screen blend mode. And when you’re making a photo composite, this can certainly come in handy!

Why? Because when you paste a subject on a black surface, you won’t need to waste long minutes selecting and masking it. Instead, you can simply change the blend mode to Screen, and the black background will disappear. (Some common examples where this works well is when compositing smoke, lightning, and bokeh.)

How to use Screen blend mode: step by step

Working with Screen is extremely easy, and even Photoshop beginners should be able to grasp the basics.

Start by opening the image you want to edit in Photoshop. Then add a second layer (on which you’ll be using the Screen blend mode). It doesn’t matter if it’s a duplicate of the original file, a new image, or an adjustment layer; Screen is used the same way in each scenario.

For my example, I’m duplicating the Background layer. To do this, you can click on the layer and drag it to the Add New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel, or you can use the Duplicate Layer command in the Layer menu:

Make sure your new layer is selected, then open the blend mode menu (you’ll find it at the top of the Layers panel). Scroll until you find Screen:

If you’re using Photoshop CC, you’ll see a preview of each blend mode’s effect as you hover over it in the menu. However, to apply Screen (or any other blend mode), you’ll need to click on it.

If the result is a little too intense, go ahead and adjust the opacity. You’ll find this option at the top of the Layers panel next to the blend mode menu:

By default, the opacity will be at 100%. To adjust it, click on the arrow next to it to open the slider. Then simply move the slider until you’re happy with the result!

Screen blend mode: A step-by-step example

As I mentioned above, there are many uses for the Screen blend mode. In this example, I show you how it can be used to recover underexposed photographs, then I explain how to combine it with the Multiply blend mode to add contrast.

By the time I’m finished, you’ll see how much detail you can recover from a poorly exposed photograph without losing any information.

Step 1: Duplicate your image layer

You’ll need to start by opening your image; by default, it will appear as a locked Background layer:

Go ahead and duplicate the original image. Remember, you can simply click and drag it to the plus sign at the bottom of the panel (i.e., the Add New Layer icon). Alternatively, you can select Layer>Duplicate Layer in the Photoshop menu.

Step 2: Apply the Screen blend mode

Next, you’ll want to change the blend mode to Screen. As I explained in the previous section, you can do this by opening the drop-down menu at the top of the Layers panel.

Click on Screen, then watch as the image brightens:

Step 3: Adjust the tones

The Screen blend mode did a great job of boosting the exposure of my image, but the highlights – that is, the brightest portions of the sky and the water- are a bit too bright. I want to lower the effect of the blend mode on those areas (and only those areas).

To do this, I’ll add a layer mask. You can create masks by selecting the relevant layer, then clicking the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the panel. Then grab a Brush, set it to black, lower its opacity, and start painting over the lighter areas (while making sure your mask is selected).

The areas over which I’ve painted decrease in brightness, giving a nice result:

I like what I’ve produced, but I want to brighten the shadows further and add some contrast. To do this, I can create a Levels adjustment layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

Just altering the blend mode will produce an immediate change – though you can fine-tune the effect using the sliders or the presets in the Levels property panel. In my case, I’ve used one of the presets to increase the contrast.

Note: If you think it’s necessary, you can lower the opacity of your Levels adjustment layer. I turned mine down to 50%, but you should always move the slider to choose a value that’s right for your image.

Step 5: Add some extra contrast

At this point, my image has details in shadows and highlights, and it’s definitely an improvement compared to the original. However, it looks rather flat. A dramatic sky would give it the extra oomph it needs.

I’ll merge and copy all the layers into a single new file by pressing Ctrl/Cmd+Shift+Alt/Option+E, then I’ll change the blend mode to Multiply.

Since Multiply is the opposite of Screen, the image will get darker. Unfortunately, while the sky is now exactly what I want, the rest is too dark again. So I’ll create a layer mask to fine-tune where I want the Multiply layer to appear and where I want the Screen layer to shine through:

And that’s it. Just look at the difference:

Screen blend mode: 2 quick tips

Like any other Photoshop tool, there’s more to Screen than meets the eye. Here are a few extra tips to help you out:

1. Apply Screen blend mode to a filter

When you’re working with Smart Objects, the filters you apply become Smart Filters – which allow you to change the blend mode (just as if you were working with layers).

To adjust a filter’s blend mode, double-click on the Adjustments icon next to the filter in the Layers panel. This will open a dialog box; simply open the Mode menu and choose Screen:

2. Use Screen to add a tint to your photos

You can use the Screen blend mode to add a tint or a touch of color to your images. Simply add a Solid Color or Gradient layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

If the effect is a bit strong, you can always lower the opacity. Note that the result may be very subtle, yet it’s a great way to give your images that extra-polished look.

Screen blend mode: final words

Hopefully, you found this article helpful! Screen isn’t a hugely popular blend mode, but it’s actually very useful and versatile. Whether you’re adding clouds to a landscape, steam to a cup of coffee, or brightening an underexposed photo, Screen will make things so much easier.

So if you haven’t already, head into Photoshop and test it out. Try compositing two images, or see if you can subtly improve a photo by using Screen to alter the exposure.

Now over to you:

How do you plan to use the Screen blend mode? Do you have any additional tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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[Photography] Wide-Angle vs Telephoto Lenses: Which Is Right for You?

The post Wide-Angle vs Telephoto Lenses: Which Is Right for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

Struggling to choose between a wide-angle and a telephoto lens? You’re not alone. Picking the perfect focal length can be tricky, especially because wider and longer lenses each have their benefits (and their drawbacks).

Personally, I like both lens types, but particular focal lengths do suit certain shooting styles and subjects. In this article, I explore the key differences between wide-angle and telephoto lenses, and I share when you might want to use one over the other.

Let’s dive right in!

Wide-angle vs telephoto lenses: the basics

Here’s the fundamental difference between wide-angle and telephoto glass:

Wide-angle lenses offer an expansive view – that is, they show more of the scene. Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, zoom in close so you can capture highly detailed images.

Of course, there’s a lot of variation among both wide-angle and telephoto models. Wide-angle lenses span the gamut from around 10mm to around 45mm, with 10mm featuring an ultra-wide perspective, and 45mm featuring a perspective that’s barely wider than the human eye’s. Telephoto lenses span the gamut from around 60mm, which is good for close-ups of large subjects, to 800mm, which is used almost exclusively by bird photographers, wildlife photographers, aviation photographers, and astrophotographers.

But despite this range, it’s important to keep in mind some essential advantages and disadvantages of the two lens types:

1. Telephoto lenses emphasize the details

As you know, wide-angle lenses give you a wide view, while telephoto lenses give you a narrow view.

In practice, this means that wide-angle lenses are great for showing off expansive scenes, such as breathtaking seascapes, mountainscapes, and cityscapes. They’re also a good way to create more environmental images – that is, shots that showcase subjects within the broader landscape.

Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, let you get close to your subject – without physically moving forward. They’re essential tools if you want to photograph skittish wildlife, such as birds, or inaccessible subjects, such as athletes on the field. Telephoto glass is also perfect for capturing tighter portraits (e.g., headshots) without intruding on your subject’s personal space, and it’s a solid way to create intimate close-ups within a wider landscape or cityscape scene.

In the two images below, you can see a wide-angle and a telephoto lens in action. Both images were captured from Olmsted Point in Yosemite National Park, but notice the dramatic difference:

In the first image, the wide-angle lens shows off the total landscape. It documents both sides of the valley, the textures of the foreground rocks, and the far-off peak of Half Dome. In the second image, the telephoto lens brings the eye right up to the mountains, showing off their shapes and the details of the geology.

Another pair of images (below) shows this difference even more dramatically. The first image is not just a wide-angle image, but an aerial shot taken from a small airplane over the Okavango Delta in Botswana. From this vantage point, all of the individual elements of the landscape become incredibly small and the viewer’s eyes pay more attention to the overall arrangement than any individual shapes:

The second image is also from the Okavango area but was captured from the ground, and a telephoto lens was used to draw attention to the beautiful curves of a single acacia tree:

Neither of these effects is better than the other, but it’s important to recognize a) whether you prefer to capture more expansive or tighter shots and b) whether you’re physically capable of getting close to your subject.

2. Wide-angle lenses offer a deeper depth of field

The second major difference between wide-angle and telephoto lenses has to do with the depth of field they produce – that is, the area of the image that’s in focus. Here, a shallow depth of field refers to photos with only a small sliver in focus, while a deep depth of field refers to photos that are in focus from foreground to background.

Put succinctly, the longer the focal length (i.e., the more telephoto your lens), the shallower the depth of field. In practice, this means that when you’re shooting wide, it’s much easier for you to get everything in focus, from the grass at your feet to the ridge on the horizon.

However, a shallower depth of field is much better for isolating your subject from the background, and that’s where a telephoto lens comes into play. By dialing in a wide aperture (such as f/2.8) and getting close to your subject, you can create beautiful background bokeh, like this:

The two images below are perfect examples of this effect. In the first image, the wide-angle lens brings the whole landscape into focus, from the close-up sunflowers to the far-off mountains. But in the second image, the telephoto lens blurs out the more distant flowers and mountains, turning them into a nice soft background for the main sunflower.

Certain photographic genres rely heavily on the shallow depth of field effect, including portrait photography, wildlife photography, and sports photography. Other photographic genres tend to move in the other direction; landscape and still-life photographers, for instance, often obsessively pursue sharpness throughout the frame.

One caveat to keep in mind: Technically speaking, a wide-angle lens only deepens the depth of field compared to a telephoto lens when photographing from the same place. So a wide-angle lens won’t get you a deeper depth of field when shooting the exact same composition as a telephoto lens; rather, a wide-angle lens will get you a deeper depth of field when capturing a larger slice of the scene.

3. Telephoto lenses compress the scene

Telephoto and wide-angle lenses encourage different types of perspective distortion, which is an unavoidable part of photography and will subtly affect your images.

You see, wide-angle lenses generally force you to get close to your subjects, and this expands the sense of depth in your shots by enlarging elements in the foreground and shrinking those in the background. It’s great for creating landscape and street images that make you feel like you could step right into the frame. (That said, you do run the risk of making towering, awesome mountains in the distance look like puny hills.)

Telephoto lenses, on the other hand, generally compress depth and cause objects near and far to appear more similar in size. A compressed sense of depth is great for abstracting a scene and bringing out its graphical qualities. Colorful forest canopies, layered mountain ridges, and curving sand dunes are all great subjects for this kind of shooting; you can also create beautiful portraits, wildlife shots, and sports photos this way.

In the left image below, notice how the wide-angle lens exaggerates the size of the flowers in the foreground at the expense of the mountains in the background. The mountains are so tall that they’re shrouded in clouds, but the lens keeps them from looking especially grand. But pull out a telephoto lens, and you can zoom straight in on the mountain to show off the contrast between the rugged outline of the peak and the soft wispy form of the cloud (right).

Here are two more images, both taken at the same location in Big Bend National Park, that show off the compression effect. In the first image, you can see that the wide-angle lens increases the size of the plants and rocks in the foreground while shrinking the large desert mountains in the background:

In the second image, the telephoto lens flattens out the depth of the many desert ridges, calling attention to their graphic patterns and outlines:

Summary: space versus object

Have a hard time remembering all these details? Here’s an easy way to summarize it with a simple idea:

Wide-angle lenses show off space, telephoto lenses show off objects.

The wide-angle lens’s big field of view, ease of uniform focus, and depth-distorting abilities are great at showing off big, expansive scenes. However, they take focus away from individual elements within the scene in favor of showing the whole.

Telephoto lenses are naturally the opposite: they’re great at showing off the size, shape, and intricacies of individual elements. But their narrow field of view, small depth of field, and depth-compressing qualities make it hard to capture wider scenes.

You can analyze this final pair of images to see exactly how all of these techniques work together. First, see how a wide-angle lens fits the whole landscape into the frame, from close-up rocks to far-off peaks and sky:

Because of the lens’s deep depth of field, the whole landscape is in acceptable focus. The lens’s depth distortion is readily apparent, as well: the foreground rocks look very large, creating a pleasing sense of depth and emphasizing the leading lines that draw the eye from the edges of the frame to the center. Overall, you get a very good sense of the space and the expansiveness of the valley.

This next image was taken in the same place, but a telephoto lens captures it very differently. The photo brings out a single element of the landscape; look closely and you can see this peak in the previous shot.

Because of the telephoto lens’s narrow depth of field, the sky is slightly out of focus while leaving the details of the peak itself perfectly sharp. And most of all, the compressed sense of depth flattens the image, showing off the rocky mass of the mountain and calling attention to the beautiful curve of the ridgeline. Overall, you get a great sense of the mountain as a solid object rather than a bounded space.

Which lens should you use?

If you can only purchase (or access) one of these two lens types, it’s important that you think carefully about the subjects you hope to shoot and how you hope to shoot them. Wide-angle lenses are great for breathtaking landscapes and cityscape scenes. They’re also a great way to create more environmental street and portrait photos.

Telephoto lenses, however, are perfect for tight portraits, wildlife shots, and sports photos.

If possible, purchase both types of lenses and carry them in your camera bag. Then, when you head out with your camera, carefully evaluate the scene. Ask yourself: Am I looking to highlight individual details? Or do I want to show the scene as a whole?

Then make your choice accordingly!

Now over to you:

Which lens type do you plan to use, wide angle or telephoto? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Landscape Photography

• GENERAL
  • The dPS Ultimate Guide to Landscape Photography
  • 10 Most Common Mistakes in Landscape Photography – and How to Overcome Them
  • Responsibilities of Landscape Photographers
• PREPARATION
  • How to Find and Photograph Wild Landscapes for Epic Images
  • The Three Dangers of Landscape Photography
  • How to Plan the Perfect Landscape Photo
  • How to Find the Best Locations for Landscape Photography
  • The Importance of Scouting for Landscape Photographers
  • Why Goal Planning Is the Key to Growing as a Landscape Photographer
  • What is Your Favorite Landscape Location?
  • 8 Tips to Avoid Crowds at Popular Landscape Locations
• SETTINGS
  • 5 Tips for Setting the Focus in Your Landscape Photography
  • Understanding Aperture and Landscape Photography – Why F16 Isn’t the Only Choice
  • Guide to Creative White Balance for Landscape Photography
  • How a Short Versus Long Exposure Will Affect Your Landscape Images
  • How to Get Super Sharp Landscape Photography Images
  • Getting Landscapes Sharp: Hyperfocal Distances and Aperture Selection
  • The Best ISO for Landscape Photography (in Every Situation)
  • 5 Reasons To Should Shoot Your Landscape Images in RAW
  • How to Work with Different Shutter Speeds for Landscape Photography
• LIGHTING
  • Tips for Using Flash to Enhance Outdoor Nature and Landscape Photography
  • Landscape Photography: It’s All About the Light
  • How to Improve Your Landscape Photography By Understanding Portrait Lighting
  • Painting with Light in the Landscape
• COMPOSITION
  • Aspect Ratios in Landscape Photography
  • 6 Tips for Capturing Dramatic Skies in your Landscape Photography
  • How to Use Leading Lines Effectively in Landscape Photography
  • 10 Landscape Composition Techniques for Breathtaking Photos (2021)
  • 3 Reasons to Shoot Vertical Aspect Landscapes and 6 Tips on How to Shoot Them
  • How to Use Juxtaposition for More Compelling Landscape Photography
  • Using Layers and Foreground Interest for Better Landscape Photography
  • Include The Foreground For Dramatic Landscapes
  • How to Photograph a Minimalist Landscape
  • 5 Framing Tricks to Help You Capture Better Landscape Photos
  • How to Use Balance in Your Landscape Photography Composition
  • 5 Good Reasons to Add People into Your Landscape Photography
  • Include Clouds In Your Landscapes
  • Landscape Photography and the Human Element
  • How to Add a Sense of Scale to Your Landscape Photos
  • How to Solve 5 Composition Conundrums Faced by Landscape Photographers
  • The S-Curve: A Landscape Photography Composition Technique
  • Using Water to Lighten Landscape Photos
• GEAR
  • 5 Quick Reasons to Use the Nifty Fifty for Landscape Photography
  • Using Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
  • How to Use Neutral Density Filters to Make Better Landscape Photos
  • How to Use Wide-angle Lenses for Landscape Photography
  • Tips for Shooting Landscapes With a Telephoto Lens
  • Six Tips For Using Filters to Improve Your Landscape Photos
  • 5 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape Photography
  • Six Situations Where Tripods are Essential for Landscape Photographers
  • Wide Angle Versus Telephoto Lenses for Beautiful Landscape Photography

    • Wide-angle vs telephoto lenses: the basics
    • 1. Telephoto lenses emphasize the details
    • 2. Wide-angle lenses offer a deeper depth of field
    • 3. Telephoto lenses compress the scene
    • Summary: space versus object
    • Which lens should you use?
    • Wide-angle vs telephoto lenses: the basics
    • 1. Telephoto lenses emphasize the details
    • 2. Wide-angle lenses offer a deeper depth of field
    • 3. Telephoto lenses compress the scene
    • Summary: space versus object
    • Which lens should you use?
  • 10 Essential Pieces of Landscape Photography Gear
  • Why you Need a Telephoto Zoom Lens for Landscape Photography
  • Circular Polarizers Versus Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
  • Comparison – HDR Versus Graduated Neutral Density Filters for Landscape Photography
  • Polarizing and Neutral Density Filters: Essentials for Landscape Photography
  • Why I Always Use an L-Plate Bracket for Landscape Photography
  • Why I Switched From LEE Filters to Formatt-Hitech for Landscape Photography
  • Review of the Venus Laowa 15mm F/4 Wide Angle Lens for Landscape Photographers
  • Which Landscape Photography Camera Should You Buy? [video]
  • Essential Accessories for Landscape Photography
  • How to Choose the Right Tripod for Landscape Photography
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 10 Tips for Photographing Wide-Angle Landscapes
  • 8 Tips for Fall Landscape Photography
  • 5 Tips for Better Winter Landscape Photography
  • 5 Ways to Create Dramatic Landscape Photos at Midday
  • How to Shoot Landscapes at Sunset
  • Tips for Shooting Landscape Photography Towards the Sun
  • 8 Steps to Great Long Exposure Landscape Photography
  • 15 Tips for Low Light Landscape Photography
  • The Night Sky In Landscape Photography
  • How to Make Storytelling Landscape Photos – 4 Steps
  • A Day At The Beach: Photographing Seaside Landscapes
  • Tips for Winter Landscape Photography on the Prairie
  • Landscape Photography – Shooting the Same Location Through the Seasons
  • 3 Tips to Take Better Landscape Photos Regardless of the Weather
  • Time for Landscape – Weather and Landscape Photography
  • Tips for Landscape Photography in Exotic Places
  • Putting You Into Your Landscape Photography
  • 5 Ways to Capture More Diverse Landscape Photos
  • 5 Tips to Discover Intimate vs. Grand Landscape & Nature Photography
  • Photographing Starry Skies for Nocturnal Landscape Without Breaking the Bank
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement
  • How to Convert a Camera to Infrared for Black and White Landscape Photography
  • Tips for Making Dramatic Black and White Landscape Photos
  • 6 Ideas for More Creative Landscape Photography
  • How to Create Glass Ball Landscapes – 6 Techniques
  • How to Get Landscapes Sharp with Focus Stacking
  • How to do Landscape Panoramic Photography
• POST-PROCESSING
  • 5 Easy Steps to Exposure Blending for High Contrast Landscapes
  • A Super Simple Way to Make Landscape Photos POP Using Lightroom
  • Making the Best Use of HDR in Landscape Photography
  • Landscape Editing Techniques for Fine Art Photography Using Lightroom
  • How to Use Adobe Camera Raw and Photoshop to Make Your Landscape Images Pop
  • Editing Gently: 3 Tips for Processing Realistic Landscape Photos
  • The Power of Post-processing for Landscape Photography
  • How to Use Neutral Tones to Craft Realistic Edits for Landscape Photos
  • Top 5 Nik Collection Filters to Improve Your Landscape Photos
  • How to Edit Landscape and Nature Photos with the Lightroom Gradient Tool and Range Mask Features
  • Lightroom Quick Post-Processing Tips for Landscape Photography
  • Tips for Processing Winter Landscapes in Lightroom
  • How to Use the Lightroom HSL Panel for Landscape Photo Editing
  • How to Process a Black and White Landscape Photo Using Lightroom
  • How to Give Your Landscape Photos Extra Punch in One Easy Step
  • Tips For Editing the Colors in Landscape Photos Using Lightroom (video)
  • Tips for Processing Landscape Photos – from Basic Edits to Artistic Interpretation
  • 5 Tips For Mastering Contrast In Your Landscape Photos (video)
  • Using the Lightroom Adjustment Brush to add Dimension to a Landscape Photo
  • OPINION: Why Photoshop is Ruining Landscape Photography
• INSPIRATION
  • An Interview With Landscape Photography Legend Art Wolfe – Part 1
  • 27 Black and White Landscape Images
  • A Collection of Stunning Landscape Photographs
  • 9 Striking Landscapes That Break the ‘Rules’
  • These Inspiring Landscape Photographers will Make You Want to Take Better Photos

The post Wide-Angle vs Telephoto Lenses: Which Is Right for You? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter.

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