Jul 8, 2025

[Photography] Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera

The post Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

I think this sits firmly in the “make photography fun again” camp – not that it isn’t fun, but you know, it’s pretty easy to get into a proverbial slump sometimes.

Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera

So the team at Clickster Camera sent us across this little gem to have a play with! It’s a super-simple digital camera, but, it has NO screen! It comes with a memory card and you can shoot a couple of thousand frames before you need to empty the card. It’s kinda like a modern day point and shoot film camera, but you don’t need to send it off to be developed.

The fun, for me at least, is that you take it out for a day, you make all of your photographs, and then, when the time is right, you plug it into your computer and ‘see what you got!’ that anticipation of not knowing, you don’t get to review in camera, you don’t get to check it out via your phone – you have to wait!

Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera

It’s as simple as this, here’s pretty much everything in the instruction manual for the Clickster Camera – It has an off/on button, a shutter release button, a USB-C plug for charging and getting your photos off. Right next to the USB-C port you will find an ‘M’ button as well as a + and – They’re for setting the date on your camera. There’s a button on the back where the little digital display is, that is the mode button – you have three options, Mono, Retro and Classic, and if you hold that button in it turns the beepy sound off / on. On the front of the camera (the photo up the top) you can also see the LED flash on/off button.

All you have on the display is what mode you’re in, your battery life (around 500 frames, that’s a lot!) as well as how many frames you’ve taken and the sound on or off icon – again, simples!

Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera

It’s a dead simple camera, very easy to use in good light, less than ideal results in the dark unless you’re on a tripod, but then (for subjects in close) you use the flash and you’re cooking with gas, well, LED, but you get me…

Pretty much child-proof and only $120 – well worth a shot! Enough of my rambling! Check out this little video from our friend Andy on his time with the Clickster Camera! (Sub to his Youtube while you’re at it)

Do we think the Clickster is better than the Fujifilm? Well that all depends, doesn’t it? You could grab one and try it out for yourself!

We found them online in Australia for $119 at Teds, Camera House etc, a quick Google should have you up and running.

The post Light Machine Clickster 8MP Digital Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.



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Jul 1, 2025

[Photography] What’s the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like?

The post What’s the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

I’ve been fortunate enough to have been using the new lens for the last few days, thanks to Blonde Robot, Australia’s Tamron distributor ?? While I haven’t had a chance to take it out and spend some time with it yet (hope to over the next few days) I went to the EV Show here in Melbourne and took it along – It’s true of any wide lens, you can warp reality if you try just a little bit! So I had some fun being creative with fast electric cars.

What's the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like?
What's the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like?

I thought I’d share this video from Michael Ronin (I can confirm he did give the lens back haha) as he takes the ultra-wide and walks you through it in his video. Enjoy!

Do you think an ultra-wide has a place in your camera bag? Do you already have an ultra-wide? Tell us in the comments.

You can learn more about the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 lens on the Tamron Australia website.

The post What’s the new Tamron 16-30mm f/2.8 G2 like? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.



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[Photography] 8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes

The post 8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Valerie Jardin.

Tips for beautiful street photo silhouettes.

Have you worked out how best to photograph a silhouette yet? We’d love you to give it a try and post your results in the comments! I guess this is ‘street’ I was in the right place to capture a whole bunch of young people running across a street to a concert – that was a fun day! Updated July 2025

8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes

Street photography silhouettes are eye-catching, not to mention beautiful. But beginners often struggle to achieve great results – the kinds of compositions that feature clear main subjects, complementary backgrounds, and gorgeous light.

Here’s the good news:

Creating silhouettes on the street is a lot easier than you think. I’ve been doing it for years, and in this article, I share everything you need to know for amazing results! Specifically, I explain:

  • The best types of light for great images
  • How to create breathtaking compositions with minimal effort
  • A few quick post-processing tricks to level up your shots
  • Much more!

Let’s dive right in.

1. Shoot in the right light

For the best silhouettes, you must shoot a dark subject against a well-lit background – which means that the more contrasty the lighting, the better.

Street photography silhouettes

You may have heard that great photographers only ever shoot in the morning and the evening (during the golden hours). But when it comes to street photography, nothing could be further from the truth.

Instead, many street photographers love to shoot in the middle of the day, when the sun is high overhead and produces harsh light. The harsh light ensures that certain subjects are powerfully lit, while the high lighting angle creates plenty of interesting shadows (especially in cities with tall buildings).

And shadows are the best friend of the silhouette street photographer.

Why? Because if you can find a bright background, and then – just in front of the background – is a shadow, subjects who walk by will be darkened by the shadow and silhouetted against the bright background.

Of course, you can capture great results when the sun is lower in the sky. An evening sun can produce long shadows (so you can create the same effect discussed above). Plus, if you shoot during the golden hours, you can angle your camera so that your subject is silhouetted against a breathtaking sunset.

If you’re after silhouettes, I’d encourage you to avoid photographing on cloudy days, though. Clouds soften the light and limit contrast. (If you’re dead set on capturing silhouettes, try shooting indoors, where you can use the contrast between your subject and a window to get a beautiful result!)

2. Choose the perfect camera settings

To shoot a street photography silhouette, you must take control of your camera. Silhouettes require radical underexposure, so work in Manual mode (so you can choose your settings independently) or Aperture Priority (so you can underexpose via exposure compensation).

Make sure your flash is turned off, then – if you have the time – take some test shots of your scene. You’ll want to keep adjusting the exposure until your foreground subjects are completely black; add negative exposure compensation or boost the shutter speed.

Street photography silhouettes

A timesaving trick here is to point your camera at the bright area behind the subject, lock the exposure settings, recompose, and capture your shot. That way, your camera will expose for the background and render the foreground black. Make sense?

Another option is to set your camera to its spot metering mode, then meter off the brightest area behind the subject.

(If you leave your camera to its own devices, it’ll often try to expose for your subject. The result will include far too much detail in the subject and blow out the highlights in the background.)

Make sure you carefully focus on your silhouetted subject. If you’re struggling to lock onto your subject, you can try switching over to manual focus. To give yourself room for error, narrow the aperture to f/8 or so for a deeper depth of field.

3. Don’t be afraid to blow out the highlights

Some street photography silhouettes rely on highlight detail. Subjects captured against a rising or setting sun, for instance, can feature beautiful background clouds that add plenty of color and atmosphere.

That said…

Sometimes you can let the highlights blow out for a more dramatic effect.

In other words, you can subtly adjust your exposure to create a bright-white background, like this:

Street photography silhouettes

To get this effect, you’ll need to make sure your subject is sufficiently shaded and your background is sufficiently bright. You need real contrast. If you’re outdoors, try to find a bright white background and wait for a subject to walk by; if you’re inside, look for larger windows that’ll offer plenty of brightness.

And aim to set your exposure somewhere between the shaded subject and well-lit background. You can expose for the subject but drop the exposure a few stops, or you can expose for the background but raise the exposure a few stops. (If you’re not sure which method you prefer, try both!)

4. Capture the right outline

Great street photos don’t include just any silhouette. Instead, they feature silhouettes that:

  • Are well-defined
  • Have a recognizable shape
  • Do not have any additional items (such as signs) protruding from the main outline

What’s important here is that the viewer can clearly tell the silhouette is created by a person. Therefore, it’s best to shoot subjects that are facing sideways (so that their nose and chin are visible) or forward (so that you can see their arms, legs, and head), and it’s important to avoid letting the silhouette overlap with other silhouetted objects, such as street scenes or even other people.

For an even more dynamic image, capture subjects in mid-stride or mid-gesture:

Street photography silhouettes

To get the best results with moving subjects, you’ll need to be fast. Raise your camera to your eye a few seconds before the subject walks by, then hit the shutter button just as they take a step!

5. Avoid obstructions

The best silhouette street photos contain an unobstructed view of the subject. In other words, the image should have no foreground or background elements that cross the subject, such as posts, signs, other people, or cars.

Why is this important?

Good silhouettes feature clear outlines. But if elements cross your subject, the outline will become confusing, and the viewer will struggle to interpret the shot.

So before you take an image, glance across the entire composition. Ask yourself: Do I see any problematic elements that could muddy up the silhouette? If so, see if you can fix the problem by moving a few feet to the left or the right. You can also try dropping down low – or, if you’re shooting a moving element, you could simply wait until it changes position.

When capturing the image below, I waited until the woman with the suitcase walked between the posts. Then I fired the shutter!

Street photography silhouettes

6. Add in a creative effect or two

If you want to take your street photos to the next level, don’t just achieve a solid silhouette outline and call it a day. Instead, strive to incorporate creative effects into your shots!

For instance, by stopping down your lens aperture and positioning the sun along the edge of an object, you can create a beautiful sunburst:

Street photography silhouettes

Another option is to shoot with flowers or leaves close to your camera, then use a wide aperture to create a pleasing blur.

I’d also encourage you to change up your angle. By getting down low, you can make your silhouetted subject loom over the viewer – and by getting up high, you can capture wider street scenes that feature all sorts of action.

7. Try a minimalist approach

Minimalism refers to a compositional approach that includes plenty of negative space. The subject is often small in the frame, like this:

Street photography silhouettes

And because silhouette scenes tend to lack lots of detail and because the main subject is generally so eye-catching, they lend themselves well to a minimalist approach.

The key here is to find a scene that offers plenty of negative space. Look for buildings with bright windows, stretches of ocean with silhouetted passersby, and bridges that you can photograph from below.

Get into position. Make sure to compose so that you include lots of empty space around the subject. Test out a few compositions if you have the time, just so you can get a sense of what works and what doesn’t.

Then, when the right subject walks through the area, take a shot! The small silhouetted person will anchor the composition, and you’ll end up with a beautifully minimalistic street photo.

8. Enhance your silhouette in post-processing

Great street photos start in the field. If you don’t get the camera settings right, the composition right, and the lighting right, then your shots just won’t look good no matter how much time you spend on editing.

However, once you’ve captured a good silhouette in the field, you can certainly enhance it with a bit of post-processing. (And if you work in RAW – which I highly recommend! – then processing is a necessary part of your photography workflow anyway.)

Start by tweaking the exposure and the white balance. Make sure you have the overall look that you’re after, then dive into your heavier editing options. Boosting the contrast is generally a good move. If you find that your subject includes too much detail but you don’t want to tweak the highlights, try dropping the blacks or the shadows; conversely, if you like the look of your subject but you want to brighten the background, try boosting the whites or the highlights.

You might also play with different saturation values. And if you want to create a very unique effect, consider adding some sort of color grade. At the end of the day, this is about personal preference – so you won’t know what works until you try it!

Street photography silhouettes: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re capable of capturing outstanding street silhouettes.

Just remember the tips I’ve shared, make sure you spend plenty of time out with your camera, and have fun experimenting!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Street Photography

The post 8 Tips for Stunning Street Photography Silhouettes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Valerie Jardin.



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Jun 30, 2025

[Photography] ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers!

The post ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

The team over at ProGrade sent us their ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD to try out!

ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers!

ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD

The ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD is a compact, high-speed external drive designed to fit seamlessly into ProGrade’s existing workflow system. It features USB 4.0 and suggests up to 4,000 MB/s read speeds and 3,500 MB/s write speeds, which, if you know much about file transfer speeds, is pretty darn quick! So even the largest files from the most modern digital cameras are no match… Super quick! I ran a quick test with the Black Magic disk speed test software and it did very well!

Real world? It’s much faster when connected to my little Mac Mini M4 than any other disk I currently own, including my other 2tb SSD. The USB 4.0 really does the trick.

ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers!
Black Magic Disk Speed Test of the ProGrade Digital SSD

What are the main features?

  • Blazing Speeds: Well obviously speed is a big factor here, SSD via USB 4.0, if your computer can handle it, is going to be the driving force behind most people purchasing this little guy.
  • Sustained Performance: An import via my ProGrade card readers directly into the ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: certainly moved the regular bottle-neck of file import away from the saving to disk part of the process! 400 90mb RAW files from my Sony a7R imported smoothly and quickly. – USB 4.0 interface provides transfer rates of up to 40Gb/s (5GB/s)
  • Compact Design: Big in performance, small in footprint? ProGrade PG10.5 is well about 3″ or 70mm square, oh, and it’s magnetic, so you can attach it to things (Like the Prograde Pro Hub) as well as the included stick-on metal plate that you adhere to (for example) your laptop lid so it can be fixed there while you’re working on the go.
  • Durability: A sturdy little beastie, the Pro Mini SSD is X-Ray and Shock proof (I still won’t loan it to my 15yo…!) and also comes with a very sturd feeling, certified high-speed USB4 cable.

ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers!

So who is it for?

  • Beginner to Intermediate Photographers: If you’re transitioning from basic storage solutions and require faster, more reliable storage for larger files, the PG10.5 is a worthy investment.
  • On-the-Go Professionals: Its compact size and rugged design make it perfect for photographers who frequently travel or work on location. If I was still a music photographer, this thing would LIVE in my bag – perfoect form factor, speed and damage resistant.
  • Workflow Integration: Like me, if you already use the ProGrade readers (I use the SD and MicroSD for my drone) the PG10.5 is a no brainer to keep everything all in the one place.

Pros & Cons?

  • Price Point: While offering top-tier performance, the PG10.5 comes at a premium price, which might be a consideration for those on a tight budget – After weeks of solid use, the SSD hasn’t skipped a beat and continually surprises me with its speed – you get what you pay for I guess!
  • Platform Compatibility: Compatible with Thunderbolt 4, Thunderbolt 3, USB 3.2, and 3.1 Type-C ports

My final thoughts

The ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD is a high end solution for those wanting to “do it well, do it once” it isn’t cheap by comparison to some external storage solutions, but it does offer excellent speed, form factor and also has a 3 year warranty.

The post ProGrade PG10.5 Pro Mini SSD: A Compact Powerhouse for Photographers! appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.



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Jun 23, 2025

[Photography] How to Get Foregrounds Right in Photography

The post How to Get Foregrounds Right in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

If you’re a “Just give me the facts” kind of reader, I’ve summed this one up and shared it here for you! — Simon

Foreground elements enhance depth: Including strong foregrounds in a photo creates a three-dimensional feel, helping the viewer feel immersed in the scene.

Foregrounds provide context: In modern travel and landscape photography, foregrounds can ground the image by showing location-specific details (like rocks, flowers, or textures), adding storytelling value.

Creates visual interest: Thoughtful use of foregrounds can break up negative space and lead the viewer’s eye into the image, making it more engaging.

Helps with composition: Foregrounds are crucial in widely used compositional techniques like leading lines, framing, and the rule of thirds.

Foregrounds aid in perspective: Placing elements at varying distances in the frame (foreground, midground, background) enhances spatial awareness—key in both DSLR and mobile photography today.

Still relevant across styles: Whether you’re shooting for Instagram, stock, or fine art, using foregrounds to build depth is just as important now as it was in the past.

foregrounds in photography

After my last overseas trip I received emails from two fellow travelers from the tour group I shared two weeks with as I toured around Turkey. Both emails contained some of the ‘best’ photos that my two fellow travelers. Many of the photos that each of them took were in the same locations (mainly landscape photography) and I was fascinated to compare them because despite being taken in the same location – many of them were remarkably different in terms of quality.

One of my fellow travelers consistently had taken better shots and one of the reasons for this was that he’d obviously given some thought to the foregrounds in his shots and used them to really add depth to the shots he’d taken. His shots made you feel like you were standing right in the scene itself. The foregrounds added context, perspective and interest.

On the other hand – my other friend had quite obviously given the foreground in his images little, if any, thought at all. The resulting images were one dimensional and lacked a way into the shots.

I’ve looked previously at factors to think about in the background of images and now I’d like to raise a few to consider with foregrounds:

foregrounds in photography

1. Check your Foreground Before Hitting the Shutter Release

Ok – so this was the same point that I made in the background article but it applies here too (I promise the rest of the points in this post will be more unique). Before you hit the shutter always run your eye around the viewfinder (all of it).

Check your foreground for distracting elements but also move your camera around a little to see what you’re missing from your foreground that could ADD something to your shot. You see good foregrounds don’t just happen. Sometimes you have to search them out and make them happen.

2. Get Down Low

One of the strategies that many landscape photographers use when trying to accentuate their foreground is to lower the height that they take their image from. Crouch down and/or lower your tripod and you’ll find the perspective of your shots can be changed quite remarkably.

3. Raise your Horizon

Similarly when you change the positioning of the horizon you change the influence that a foreground has on the image. Most people naturally place horizons in the middle of a frame but as we’ve discussed previously they tend to do better along one of the horizontal ‘thirds lines’. If you place it on the bottom third line you tend to emphasize the sky in your shot – however when you put the horizon on the top third line you accentuate the foreground. Either can work of course – depending upon what’s going on in the sky or foreground but if you have an interesting foreground you’ll generally want a higher horizon.

foregrounds in photography

4. Use Leading Lines

Another very effective strategy with foregrounds is to look for ‘leading lines’ that will draw the viewer’s eyes into your image. They’re usually vertical lines (sometimes with a diagonal direction) of some kind.

Leading lines could be actual lines but they might also be objects, patterns or shapes that create flow from the bottom edge of the imaged up into the main part of the frame.

5. Aperture

Depending upon the type of image and the effect that you’re after – you’ll probably want to use a reasonably small aperture (a larger number) in order to have a large depth of field. This will keep as much of the image in focus as possible (from your foreground and into the background).

Updated 2025

The post How to Get Foregrounds Right in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.



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Jun 15, 2025

[Photography] What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation

The post What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.


We have posted many times on the benefits of backing up, external storage vs NAS etc, and we have also spoken many times on the benefit if the Synology NAS, and while it’s true, backing up and storage IS for everybody, not everybody wants or needs to get super complicated with it! A simple solution is something like a directly attached disk, but if you want to go one step better, allowing you much more freedom to backup multiple devices without having to get super-nerdy, maybe this Synology BEE Station is a great option for you to consider?

What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation

Synology shipped us an 8TB BeeStation to configure and use for the purpose of this review.

If you’re an amateur photographer shooting more than just the occasional weekend snap, your digital photo collection has probably already started ballooning! Whether you’re capturing RAW files with a mirrorless camera, shooting time-lapses, or backing up phone pics for your growing portfolio, managing your files becomes critical—and that’s where the Synology BeeStation 8TB steps in.

What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation

Unlike general-purpose external hard drives, the BeeStation is your own, private personal cloud storage device, giving photographers a reliable and private place to store, access, and share their images—without the monthly fees of cloud services like iCloud, Dropbox or Google Drive. But how exactly can photographers take advantage of it? Here’s how you can make the most of the BeeStation…


1. Easily Back Up Your Photos

The BeeStation connects directly to your home network and runs 24/7. That means your photos can be automatically backed up from multiple devices—including your desktop, laptop, and even your phone.

For example:
You’re editing in Lightroom on your main computer, but you’re also snapping mobile shots with your phone. The BeeStation can back up both sets of images automatically using Synology’s apps (like BeePhotos and BeeFiles). It’s especially handy if you’re on location a lot and want peace of mind knowing your files are being saved as soon as you connect to Wi-Fi.


2. Organise Your Library Like a Pro

The BeeStation isn’t just about dumping files—it lets you organise your entire photo library. Tag images, sort them into albums, and search by date, keyword, or device.

Why it matters:
Over time, finding that one shot from a trip three years ago gets harder. BeePhotos’ AI-powered organisation makes image retrieval faster, so you spend less time searching and more time editing.

What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation

3. Share Albums with Clients or Family

You can share galleries or folders directly from your BeeStation with a secure link, letting you control who sees what—and whether they can download, comment, or upload their own files.

Ideal for:
• Client proofs
• Family photo sessions
• Sharing event galleries (weddings, sports, travel)

It’s more professional than uploading to Facebook, and you’re not handing over any rights or quality to social media compression.


4. Edit from Anywhere

Because it’s cloud-connected, the BeeStation lets you access your RAW or JPEG files from anywhere. Using apps like Lightroom or Affinity Photo, you can download files straight from your BeeStation while you’re travelling or at a café.

Example Scenario:
You’re away on a weekend shoot and need to prep a few selects for social media or a blog post. You can grab them directly from your BeeStation using Synology’s mobile app.

What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation

5. Free Up Space on Your Devices

Between massive RAW files and 4K video clips, storage fills up fast. Offloading older or completed projects to your BeeStation means you can keep working efficiently without clogging your internal drive.

Extra Tip:
Use folders labelled by year, client, or project type to streamline your workflow.


Final Thoughts

For photographers looking to level up their file management, the Synology 8TB BeeStation is more than just a digital shoebox. It’s a private cloud, gallery hub, backup tool, and workflow enhancer all in one. Best of all, it requires no advanced tech knowledge to get started. Synology designed the BeeStation to be beginner-friendly—making it perfect for photography enthusiasts who want to spend more time behind the camera, and less time worrying about file chaos.


Oh and By The Way!
Don’t forget to back up your BeeStation itself! Use an external drive or cloud redundancy for critical files—no single solution is foolproof!

The post What Photographers Can Do with the Synology 8TB BeeStation appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.



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