You’ve got a decent camera. You understand exposure. But something about your photos still feels… off. More often than not, the culprit isn’t your gear — it’s composition. The good news? These mistakes are easy to spot once you know what to look for, and even easier to fix. Here are ten composition habits that might be holding your photos back.
1. Putting the subject dead-centre every time The rule of thirds exists for a reason. Placing your subject slightly off-centre creates visual tension and a more natural, engaging image. Try positioning eyes, horizons, or focal points along the grid lines instead.
2. A cluttered, busy background Your background is working either for you or against you — there’s no neutral. Before you shoot, scan the whole frame. Distracting elements behind your subject? Move your feet, change your angle, or open up your aperture.
3. Cutting off limbs at the joints Cropping someone at the wrist, ankle, or knee looks awkward and unintentional. If you need to crop a person, do it between joints — mid-forearm, mid-shin, mid-thigh.
4. A horizon that’s not actually horizontal A tilted horizon is one of the most common and most fixable mistakes in photography. Use your camera’s built-in level (most have one), or spend 10 seconds straightening in post.
5. No clear subject Ask yourself: what is this photo of? If the answer is vague, your viewer won’t know where to look. Every strong image has a clear visual anchor. Find yours before you press the shutter.
6. Not using leading lines Roads, fences, rivers, staircases — these are gifts. Leading lines pull the viewer’s eye into the frame and give your image depth and direction. Look for them in every scene.
7. Shooting everything from eye level Eye level is comfortable, but it’s also predictable. Get low and shoot upward for drama. Get high and shoot down for context. Even a small change in angle can transform a photo entirely.
8. Ignoring negative space Empty space isn’t wasted space. Negative space gives your subject room to breathe and can make an image feel calm, deliberate, and modern. Don’t feel compelled to fill every corner of the frame.
9. Merging edges — where your subject “touches” the background When a tree, pole, or wall appears to grow out of someone’s head, it’s called a merge — and it’s distracting. Check your edges before shooting and adjust your position to separate the subject from the background.
10. Forgetting to simplify The best compositions usually have one thing to say. Before you shoot, ask: what can I remove from this frame? Great composition is often about subtraction, not addition.
The great thing about composition is that it costs nothing and improves everything. You don’t need a new lens or a camera upgrade — just a more intentional eye. Pick one of these to focus on during your next shoot and see what a difference it makes.
If you’ve poked around your camera’s menu settings, you’ve probably come across an option that says something like “Image Quality” or “File Format” — and two choices staring back at you: RAW and JPEG. Most beginners shrug and leave it on JPEG because, well, it’s the default. But understanding this one setting could genuinely transform the photos you’re able to produce. Let’s break it down in plain English.
What actually is a RAW file?
Think of a RAW file as a digital negative — it’s all the data your camera sensor captured, completely unprocessed. When you shoot RAW, your camera records everything: every detail in the shadows, every highlight, every colour nuance. Nothing is thrown away.
The trade-off? Your camera doesn’t do anything with that data. RAW files can’t be posted to Instagram straight out of your memory card. They need to be processed in editing software like Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, or even the free Darktable before you can share them. That’s extra work, but it’s also where the magic happens.
So what does JPEG do differently?
A JPEG is a finished product. The moment you press the shutter, your camera applies sharpening, contrast, colour, and noise reduction — automatically — and then compresses the image down into a smaller file. It’s ready to share immediately.
The downside is that your camera makes those decisions for you. And in doing so, it throws away a lot of data to achieve that smaller file size. Once that information is gone, it’s gone for good.
Why does this matter when editing?
This is where the RAW vs JPEG debate gets really practical. Let’s say you take a beautiful landscape photo, but you slightly underexposed it — the image looks a bit dark. Here’s what happens in each format:
With RAW, you open the file in Lightroom, drag the Exposure slider up a couple of stops, and the detail that was hiding in the shadows comes right back. The image still looks natural.
With JPEG, you try the same thing. The image brightens, but the shadows turn muddy and noisy. You might also start to see banding — those ugly stripes of colour where smooth gradients used to be. That’s because the data you needed to recover the image simply isn’t there anymore.
RAW files typically give you around 4 stops of exposure recovery in either direction. JPEGs? About one stop, if you’re lucky. That headroom is the difference between a recoverable mistake and a deleted photo.
The colour and white balance advantage
Here’s another thing beginners often don’t realise: white balance is completely non-destructive in RAW. Shot your indoor portraits under warm tungsten light and forgot to adjust white balance? No problem — in Lightroom, you can fix it perfectly after the fact with zero quality loss.
In JPEG, changing white balance in post is genuinely editing the image data. You can nudge it slightly, but a major correction will shift colours in ways that look artificial and degrade quality.
“But my JPEGs look great straight from the camera!”
They might! Camera manufacturers have put enormous effort into their in-camera JPEG processing, and modern cameras produce lovely JPEGs. If you’re shooting fast-moving events, sports, or documentary work where you need to hand off photos quickly, JPEG is completely legitimate and used by professionals every day.
The question is: are you getting the most out of your camera, and do you have the editing control you need?
If you’re learning photography and want to understand how exposure, colour, and light work together, shooting RAW forces you to engage with those decisions in post. That process is incredibly educational. You start to see what the camera captured versus what you created — and that gap is where you grow as a photographer.
The storage and speed trade-off
RAW files are big. Depending on your camera, a single RAW file can be 30–80 MB, versus 5–20 MB for a JPEG. If you’re shooting hundreds of frames, that adds up fast. You’ll need bigger memory cards, more hard drive space, and longer backup times.
RAW files also slow down your camera’s burst shooting because there’s more data to write to the card. If you shoot action or wildlife where you’re hammering that shutter button, this can matter.
Many cameras offer a great middle-ground solution: RAW + JPEG. You get both files simultaneously — the JPEG for quick sharing and preview, the RAW if you want to edit properly later. Storage hungry, but flexible.
Which should you choose?
Here’s a simple way to think about it:
Choose RAW if you care about getting the best quality from every shot, you enjoy or plan to learn editing, you shoot in challenging lighting conditions, or you’re working on portraits, landscapes, or any photography where the final edit matters.
Choose JPEG if you need photos ready to use immediately, you’re shooting high-speed action and need fast burst rates, or you genuinely don’t want to edit and your camera’s JPEG output already makes you happy.
Choose RAW + JPEG if you want the best of both worlds and don’t mind using the extra storage.
Getting started with RAW
If this has convinced you to give RAW a try, here’s how to start: change your camera’s image quality setting to RAW (or RAW + JPEG), and download Adobe Lightroom (there’s a free mobile version) or the free desktop app Darktable.
Take a photo in tricky lighting — something with bright windows and shadowy corners is perfect — and spend 10 minutes just moving sliders around. Watch how much detail you can pull back from areas that looked completely lost. That moment of “oh, wow” is what turns most people into permanent RAW shooters.
Got questions about RAW editing or what software to use? Drop them in the comments below — we’d love to help.
This article was updated in January 2024 with contributions from Kelly Wolfe, Dave Spates, and Jaymes Dempsey.
Photographing dogs in action is an absolute thrill. One moment they’re a ball of energy, and the next, they’re soaring through the air to catch a Frisbee. Those freeze-frame shots elicit smiles from everyone who sees them.
But it’s not just about clicking the shutter. A lot goes on behind the scenes. Dialing in the right camera settings, keeping the dog focused, and maintaining their enthusiasm are all part of the equation. In this article, I’ll share some golden nuggets that have helped me capture those split-second wonders on camera.
So whether you’re photographing your own furry friend or working on a pet photography gig, you’ll find some actionable advice here. Let’s jump right in and elevate your dog action photography skills!
1. Use the right gear
Image by David Spates
Before I delve into practical tips for dog action shots, I want to briefly explore the importance of gear, which can make or break your images.
If you want to take better action photos of dogs, I recommend a camera body with a fast burst rate. From my experience, five frames per second is the minimum. If your camera has a faster frame rate than that, you are going to increase your keeper rate as long as your approach and technique are on point, which we will get to shortly.
Additionally, fast autofocusing is a must-have. Fortunately, many modern mirrorless cameras do an excellent job of tracking subjects as they move – and some even include animal eye AF modes so you can focus consistently on the dog’s eye as they bound around the space!
I also recommend long and fast lenses. I’ve tried to photograph action shots with the 50mm f/1.8, and the Tokina 100mm f/2.8, with very little success. While both of these lenses are incredibly sharp, they are soft wide open and do not focus well on moving subjects.
Longer lenses with fixed apertures generally focus on moving subjects much faster than shorter lenses. They also keep you and your camera gear safer. Think about it. If you have a 45 point Border Collie running full speed right at you, you need to get the photograph and get out of the way quickly.
A longer lens will give you the time you need to move once the dog starts to fill the frame. I personally use the Nikon 300mm f/4 and sometimes I’ll even throw a teleconverter on it for extended reach and cleaner bokeh.
A 70-200mm f/2.8 lens can also be very effective for dog action shots. The focal length is versatile enough for close-ups and wide shots, while the large aperture allows for shooting in lower light conditions!
2. Make sure the dog is safe
First and foremost, safety should be your priority. Dogs are not just subjects to be photographed; they are living, breathing beings that deserve respect and care.
Always choose a location where dogs are allowed. You don’t want to get into trouble with authorities or risk the dog getting hurt in an unfamiliar environment.
Opt for areas that are far from any hazards. A busy road, a steep drop, or any place where a dog can get hurt should be avoided. Keep a close eye on the dog, especially if they’re off-leash.
Ensure the area is secure enough so that the dog won’t dash off to chase a squirrel or another dog. This might mean choosing a fenced-in park or similar space.
Know the dog’s limits. Some dogs might have health issues that prevent them from running or jumping. Others might be too young or too old for strenuous activity. Listen to the dog’s owner and observe the dog’s behavior. Remember, capturing their personality is more important than getting an action shot at the expense of their well-being.
If the dog seems uncomfortable, slow down. It’s perfectly fine to capture them at their own pace. No photograph is worth risking the safety or well-being of your subject.
In essence, always prioritize the dog’s safety. This will not only make for a more relaxed and enjoyable session but will also ensure that you get natural, happy shots that reflect the dog’s true spirit.
3. Get a real expression from the dog
Capturing genuine emotion in a dog’s eyes can transform a good photo into a great one. The key to this lies not just in your camera skills, but also in how you interact with the dog.
Use a positive, encouraging voice when calling the dog over. Our four-legged friends are very attuned to human emotions, so a happy tone can go a long way. Make sure you and the dog’s owner are both creating an atmosphere of positivity.
Prepare some rewards to place by your camera. Dogs love treats and toys, so having some handy can help you get those tail-wagging, tongue-out smiles. Discuss with the dog’s owner to find out what their pet finds irresistible – be it squeaky toys, tennis balls, or treats.
Let the dog approach the camera naturally, enticed by rewards and your encouraging voice. The owner will know what will make their pet tick, so take their advice into account.
As you interact, watch for those perfect moments. Sometimes the ideal expression will come naturally as the dog reacts to your voice or the promise of a treat. Be ready to capture it.
4. Learn about the dog in advance
Prior knowledge about your four-legged subject can make or break your photography session. You need to know the basics, such as the dog’s training level, to strategize your shots effectively.
Start with a conversation with the dog’s owner. Find out about the dog’s health, especially if they have any mobility issues or dietary restrictions. This information will help you decide how active the photography session can be and what treats you can use.
Ask about their personality traits. Is the dog energetic and outgoing, or more shy and reserved? Knowing this will allow you to set up your shots in a way that brings out their true character.
Query about their training level. Does the dog know basic commands like sit, stay, and come? This can have a huge impact on how you orchestrate the shoot. Well-trained dogs may allow for more complex setups, while a younger or less-trained dog may require a simpler approach.
Safety is another concern that goes back to knowing the dog. If you’re aware of their temperament and any potential health concerns, you’ll be better equipped to ensure a safe and enjoyable session for everyone involved.
5. For running shots, have the owner call the dog
Getting a dog to run is only half the battle. The real trick is guiding them in the direction you want. For well-trained dogs with a solid “sit and stay,” I typically position the owner about 20 meters behind me. They call the dog, who then races directly towards the camera.
For younger or less trained pups, it’s essential to pick a secure location with minimal distractions. Think a dog-friendly park or even the dog’s backyard. You can also enlist the help of an extra person to hold the dog in place if they haven’t mastered the “sit and stay” command.
Some photographers opt for the dog to be on a leash. This can work, especially if the owner jogs along with them. You can always edit the leash out later if it interferes with the shot.
Keep your position in mind. If you want the dog to run directly toward you, be sure you’re in a spot that allows for this. An alternate option is to place yourself so that the dog will cross your path, giving you ample opportunity to capture a series of action shots.
6. Let the dogs be themselves
While it’s natural to have a list of shots you want to capture, remember that dogs have personalities too. And sometimes, they just want to do their own thing.
Let them! Some of my best shots have come from moments when the dogs were simply enjoying themselves. They could be chasing after a ball, bounding through tall grass, or playing a game of tug-of-war.
When you let dogs be themselves, their personalities shine through. And that makes for truly unforgettable photographs. You’ll find that the spontaneity adds a layer of authenticity and emotion that is often missing in overly staged shots.
So if you find that the dog isn’t interested in running directly towards you, but would rather sniff around and explore, go with it. Capture those candid moments. They’ll likely end up being some of your favorites from the shoot!
7. Get down low
Photographing from up high might work for humans, but dogs? Not so much. The simple act of lowering your camera can transform your dog action photos.
When you’re at the dog’s level, the images have a unique intimacy. You’re entering their world, capturing life from their viewpoint. This makes for some really compelling photos.
Another perk is the background. Being low increases the separation between the dog and the background. This helps in creating that beautiful, blurry backdrop, also known as bokeh, which makes the dog pop in the image.
So don’t hesitate to get a bit dirty. Crouch down, kneel, or even go flat on your stomach. Experimenting with these angles can add a dynamic touch to your images.
Remember, varying your height and angle can yield a variety of shots, all in one session. So pack some knee pads along with your camera gear and get down to the dog’s eye level.
8. Choose the right settings for dogs in action
Camera settings can make or break action shots. For starters, I like to use Manual mode. This gives me complete control over the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
Fast shutter speeds are essential. Dogs are quick creatures, so to freeze their motion, I generally start with a shutter speed of 1/1000s. Don’t be afraid to ramp it up even more if the dog is particularly fast.
Aperture plays a role too. A wide aperture can help create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making the dog stand out.
Then there’s ISO. While you’ll want to keep it as low as possible to avoid grain, don’t be too concerned if you have to increase it to maintain a fast shutter speed. A slightly grainy shot is far better than a blurry one.
If Manual mode intimidates you, Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority are solid alternatives. They allow you to control one aspect, while the camera adjusts the other. Just make sure you’re still keeping an eye on those crucial settings like shutter speed.
9. Nail that focus!
Ah, focus: the nemesis of many action photographers. With dogs bounding around, keeping them sharp in your frame can be challenging.
For fast-paced action, using a single focus point and continuous focusing mode (AF-C) has always worked for me. With back-button focusing, the camera continues to refocus as long as you hold down the button.
Some cameras offer tracking options. These can lock onto the subject and adjust the focus as they move. Give it a try; it may work wonders depending on your camera’s capabilities.
Animal eye autofocus is another feature to explore if your camera has it. This function focuses directly on the animal’s eyes, ensuring a sharp, expressive face.
Don’t underestimate the power of practice. Take the time to understand how your camera’s focusing system responds to fast-moving subjects. Get out there and shoot, analyze your results, adjust, and shoot some more.
Mastering focus in action photography isn’t something you’ll do overnight. But with consistent effort and the right techniques, you’ll see marked improvements in your work.
10. Practice your timing
Timing is everything in action photography, especially with subjects as quick and unpredictable as dogs. So how can you get that perfect mid-air leap or playful sprint?
Start by observing the dog’s movements. Dogs, like many animals, have a natural rhythm when they move. Take the time to notice this pattern before you start clicking away.
Adopt a technique often used by equestrians: counting strides. When a horse rider is learning to jump, they count the horse’s strides to anticipate the perfect moment for a jump. Apply this method to dog action photography.
Each time the dog’s front legs leave the ground, count it out. One, two, three, and so on. This rhythm helps you anticipate when the dog will be in the ideal position for a fantastic shot.
This counting method might be easier with larger breeds that have a longer stride, but don’t worry if you’re photographing a small dog. Practice will help you adapt this technique to any dog size or speed.
Ultimately, your timing will improve with experience. The more you practice, the better you’ll get at capturing that decisive moment. And remember, digital film is free – so don’t hesitate to take many shots and refine your timing as you go.
How to photograph dogs in action: final words
And there you have it: the nuts and bolts of capturing dogs in exhilarating action!
The safety of your furry subject is paramount, so always choose a secure location and be aware of the dog’s comfort level. Each dog is unique, and getting to know them can inform your approach and result in more authentic photos.
Your gear and settings are crucial, but remember, they are just tools. It’s your understanding of the dog, your timing, and your technique that will set your images apart. Your role is that of both a photographer and an animal lover. Never lose sight of the latter.
Be prepared to adapt. Dogs, like any other models, have their own personalities and quirks. Sometimes the unplanned shots are the ones that capture the animal in the most beautiful way.
Thank you for joining me in this exciting realm of photography. Grab your camera, find a willing pup, and create some memorable, tail-wagging art!
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
The Meitar Award for Excellence in Photography, a distinguished collaboration
between PHOTO IS:RAEL and the Zvi and Ofra Meitar Family, marks its tenth
anniversary this year. This prestigious prize recognizes a cohesive body of work that
exemplifies superior photographic practice and profound artistic vision.
The 2026 edition is a significant milestone for us. Since its inception in 2016, the Meitar
Award has evolved into a vibrant global beacon of excellence, annually attracting
thousands of creators who challenge and expand the boundaries of the medium. Over
the past decade, it has cultivated a vital space for multicultural dialogue, serving as a
definitive home for the most compelling and urgent voices in contemporary
photography.
At the heart of the award is our esteemed international jury—a panel of world-class
photographers, curators, and critics at the forefront of the global field. The jury will
select 20 finalists to be featured in a centerpiece group exhibition at the International
Photography Festival in Tel Aviv in November 2026.
Evaluations will be based on the originality, conceptual depth, and technical quality of
the submissions. Particular emphasis will be placed on portfolios that demonstrate the
maturity and potential to evolve into a powerful solo exhibition.
The award winner, to be announced in November during the festival, will receive a
$14,000 grant to present a solo exhibition at the following year’s photography festival.
Registration Schedule:
Registration is open from February 23, 2026, to April 12, 2026.
? Early Registration: February 23, 2026 – March 19, 2026, fee: $35.
? Late Registration: March 20, 2026 – April 12, 2026, fee: $45.
Photographs must be submitted via the contest website: https://ift.tt/l3NgEWe
For further information, please contact: info@photoisrael.org
This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Kaspars Grinvalds, Karen Quist, and Darlene Hildebrandt.
Want to know how to pose men so your portraits consistently shine? Posing men isn’t especially difficult, yet many beginner portrait photographers struggle to produce nice, clean, high-quality results – and that’s where we come in.
In this article, we share 21 male posing ideas, ranging from simple, beginner-focused ideas to complex options for experienced photographers. We include a mix of styles, including corporate, informal, fashion, and more – so no matter your preferred genre of photography, you’re bound to find a pose or two that works.
Plus, we offer a handful of expert tips for male portrait photography; that way, you can confidently handle your future photoshoots!
Let’s dive right in.
How to pose men: 21 ideas
Without further ado, here are 21 outstanding male poses that practically guarantee stunning results:
1. Upper body with crossed arms
Let’s start with a very simple male pose:
Ask your subject to stand up straight, cross their arms, turn one shoulder slightly away, bring their chin toward the camera, and smile.
It works for plenty of portrait styles: informal (e.g., family portraits or senior portraits), business portraits, and even fashion shots.
Two things to watch: The shoulders should be pulled back a little, and the stomach muscles should be kept in check.
2. Full body with crossed arms
Crossed arms work in full-height shots, as well.
So use the same posing guidelines as above, then ask your subject to cross one leg in front of the other. But make sure the body weight is not supported equally on both legs; that will look awkward!
This pose is especially nice for informal photoshoots, such as a family portrait session.
3. One hand on a hip
A recurring question from your subject might be, “Where should I put my hands?”
But while hands are often a point of confusion and awkwardness, the solution is actually quite simple. There are four places a subject can position their hands, and they can be mixed and matched in any combination:
Loosely by the side
On the hips
In the pockets
Crossed on the chest
Note that hands should always be relaxed, which means no muscle pressure (unless you’re photographing a bodybuilder!)
For this pose, the man should put one hand on his hip, stand square to the camera, and let the other hand dangle loosely – though feel free to experiment with different hand positions, too!
4. Full body with hands in the pockets
Here’s another casual pose for a man standing upright.
Ask your subject to square his body to the camera, with his weight equally distributed on both legs and his nose pointed at the lens. In general, I recommend that the hands go in the pants pockets, thumbs out; this is a surefire way to achieve a natural and relaxed pose. However, you can use jacket pockets, too!
5. Clothes over the shoulder
This pose is a bit edgier and fashion-conscious. It can work for corporate or fashion shots but should be avoided during family and senior portraits.
Ask your subject to cross one leg over the other, look at the camera, hook a thumb in their pocket, and throw an item of clothing – such as a suit jacket – over their shoulder. The more casual and relaxed they look, the better!
6. Sitting with one ankle on the knee
Sitting poses tend to be pretty casual, and this one is no exception. Provide your subject with a block or a chair, then ask them to cross their arms and lift one ankle over their knee.
For the best results, shoot slightly from above.
7. Leaning back against the wall
This is one of my favorite upright poses, simply because it’s ultra-easy and looks really great.
Just have your model put their back to a wall and casually recline. Their hands can go in their pockets, and – for a bit of additional flair – ask them to put one foot against the wall (while the other stays flat against the floor).
8. Leaning sideways against the wall
This is a variation on the above pose. Simply ask your model to turn so one shoulder presses against the wall, then encourage them to cross their legs.
While you can certainly use a hands-in-the-pockets look, try asking your subject to cross their arms instead. Crossed arms are more formal and work well for business portraits.
9. Upper body with an item in the hand
This one’s a very simple pose for a business portrait. Ask your subject to face the camera with one hand in their pocket and the other dangling freely, an item held in the hand (e.g., a laptop, a book, or even a tool).
(If possible, ensure that the items are clear indicators of the subject’s occupation.)
10. Sitting on a desk
Here, you’ll need a relatively sturdy desk. Ask your subject to sit firmly on the edge; you’ll get a very relaxed, yet professional, result. You can experiment with different hand positions, but hands in the pockets or resting on top of the legs works great.
11. Sitting at a desk
Here’s another simple male pose for a business portrait: A man sitting at a desk.
Ask your subject to sit forward slightly. You might also have him rest his chin on his hand while letting the other arm sit on the desk surface. Alternatively, you can have him place his hands together for a more relaxed look.
To reveal the subject’s profession, place work-related items around his arms, such as books, charts, or tools.
12. Sitting at a desk, one arm up
This is another business-style portrait, but with a little extra flair. Ask your subject to sit at a desk and lean forward slightly – but one arm should come across the desk in a V-shape, while the other should fade back.
When done properly, your subject’s shoulder should tilt toward the camera, and their nose should follow.
13. Turned in a chair (away from a desk)
To show the work environment while removing the distance created by a foreground desk, flip the shot around. Ask your subject to sit in their desk chair, but spin around so that they face the camera.
One hand can go on the desk, while the other arm can dangle off the chair. The result?
Formal and inviting.
14. Arms crossed on a desk
Continuing with the desk theme, this composition puts the desk off to the side, with your subject leaning forward, arms crossed on the desk surface.
Ask your subject to tilt one shoulder toward the camera, while pointing their nose at the lens. Again, you could place work-related items on the desk to hint at the subject’s profession.
15. Standing next to a chair
Chairs are great props, and they can easily make a portrait both engaging and interesting. So ask your subject to stand upright with their legs crossed. Add in the chair, then encourage them to place one hand on its back, the other in their pocket.
Professional looking? Yes. But also fun, eye-catching, and a little bit suave.
16. Relaxed in a chair
If you’re taking corporate or even fashion portraits and your subject is struggling to get comfortable in front of the lens, why not make them comfortable – literally?
Just ask them to sit in a chair, lean back, smile, and cross one leg. Later, you can move on to more complex poses, but you’re bound to get a good shot or two out of this simple idea!
17. Sitting on the ground
For business-style portraits, this type of pose is best avoided. But if you’re doing family photo sessions, senior portraits, or another type of informal shot, you’ll love the casual, relaxed images you can capture.
Simply ask your subject to sit on the ground, one arm holding them up from behind and the other dangling over the knee. You might also try a leg cross (as pictured below), as well as other shooting directions and angles.
18. Reclining on the ground
Here’s another variant of a man’s pose while sitting on the ground. Ask your subject to sit, then to lie back while supporting his weight with one arm.
Unlike the male pose displayed above, the subject’s second arm should dangle behind. And make sure the upper arm is completely hidden – otherwise, the shot may turn out a tad awkward.
19. Sitting on the ground with arms over knees
This one’s an easy and relaxed pose for a sitting man. It works well for family portraits, senior photoshoots, and other informal purposes, though it’s best avoided for serious corporate photos.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground with one leg out (knee bent!) and the other leg tucked slightly under the opposite calve. Have them bend forward and rest their forearms on their knees.
20. Reclining against a wall
Here’s one final informal male posing idea, and while it may feel overly relaxed for certain situations (even senior portraits), it’s a great fit for more carefree subjects.
Ask your subject to sit on the ground, supporting their back against a wall, a rock, or even a tree. Encourage them to lean back in a resting pose and bring one leg back while leaving the other straight. You can experiment with different hand positions, though I’d recommend using the illustration as a starting point:
21. Close-up headshot
This is a male pose that never fails, no matter your intent. Corporate, senior portrait, website shot – the close-up headshot won’t let you down.
Ask your subject to sit forward and rest their elbows on a solid surface such as a desk. The hands should overlap loosely and rest comfortably next to your subject’s chin. Test out different head positions, though begin with a look straight toward the camera.
Oh, and one last tip: Never be afraid to crop around your model’s face!
Tips for posing and photographing men
Of course, even once you have plenty of ideas for posing men, you need to know how to approach a male photography session – and you also need to know how to think about posing more generally. In this section, I share my best tips and tricks for great shots, including:
How to create flattering male poses
How to keep men engaged in the photography process
How to get the best results when retouching your portraits
Much more!
1. Include him in the consultation process
One of the most common complaints I encounter on portrait photography forums is that men tend to be very reluctant when involved in family photoshoots. They turn up to the family shoot looking like it’s the last place on earth they want to be, and their crankiness is infectious. Pretty soon, everyone is annoyed, and it makes your job of capturing all those joyful family connections close to impossible.
I confess that this was also one of my bugbears – until I realized a problem. You see, I was often leaving male partners out of the consultation process. And in every grumpy dad case I encountered, I mistakenly assumed that the woman I spoke with during the consultation would communicate everything to their partner and communicate any concerns their partner might have.
Following a major light-bulb moment, I started to include men in the consultations, and it made a world of difference. As it turned out, my male clients just wanted to be heard! The more you engage with men before the shoot, the more comfortable they will be when you’re wielding a camera, and the better the photos will turn out. (This applies whether you’re photographing a paying client, the guy next door, or your brother.)
So before you conduct a photoshoot that involves a man, talk with him. Ask him if he has any features he’s sensitive about (a prominent nose, a double chin, acne scarring, and a bit of a tummy are common sensitive areas). Allow him to express his insecurities without feeling silly, and reassure him that you can work around these via posing, camera angles, lighting, and post-processing.
Ask him what kind of clothes he feels good in, and make sure he understands how these may work for or against him in photographs. Tread gently; if it’s a family session, there’s a good chance his partner is already on his case.
Finally, if a man makes the effort to dress well for your photoshoot, show him the same respect by paying attention to detail in the editing process. Zoom in close and check for stray hairs his razor may have missed, loose threads, and even smudges left by a child’s fingers.
2. Find purpose and meaning
Before conducting your session, ask the man why he wants the photos taken. If it’s an individual portrait, what is he using it for? If it’s for professional purposes, what kind of work does he do? What kind of look does he want? Then tailor your compositions accordingly.
If he’s a passionate kite-surfing instructor, he may not appreciate a moody black-and-white portrait; instead, he’s much more likely to want an image full of color and action. On the other hand, a budding author may love the black-and-white look!
If you’re doing a family shoot, ask him questions about the family. It sounds like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised at how often this important step is missed. What does the family like to do together? What is special about his partner? What does he love most about his child or grandchild? Dig deep, and listen to his answers. You’ll appreciate what he reveals, and you can incorporate the insights into your photos.
The image below shows dad with my eldest daughter, and it’s one of my personal favorites. He told me he loves the fact that, even though she is a teenager, she still takes his hand or his arm when they go for walks together through the forest near his home. I like how the arch of the trees frames them. To me, it suggests they are walking toward the future together.
The man in the photos below told me that he marvels at the smallness of his new daughter’s hands and feet. Like many young dads, he is at a very busy stage in his professional life. Often his baby is asleep by the time he gets home at night, so he cherishes the quiet moments they get to spend together.
The photo below features two cousins. They played together as children but have lived on separate continents since their families emigrated from their native country when they were young. I was astonished by how similar their gestures and body language were despite having lived apart for most of their lives, and I wanted to capture that in a photograph. The ocean is symbolic in this photo; though it usually separates them, when I pressed the shutter, they were both on the same side of it.
3. Give him something to lean against or sit on
Regardless of the amount of time you spend preparing, many men are profoundly uncomfortable in front of a camera, especially at the start of a shoot. And if your subject feels uncomfortable, that will come through in the photos, resulting in stiff, awkward, less-than-optimal shots.
So start by asking your subject how they feel in front of the camera. Observe their body language, too, as you take your first few shots. If your subject does seem awkward just standing, ask them to lean against a vertical surface such as a wall, fence, lamppost, or car. It will help them feel anchored and will allow them to angle their body without looking unnatural.
Another option is to find something for them to sit on, like a chair, a bench, or even a rock. You’ll be surprised by how easily it helps your subject relax.
4. Minimize a double chin, a prominent nose, or heavy jowls
Men often have certain features they prefer to deemphasize. It’s important to ask them about this in the consultation process; encourage them to be honest, and ensure that they feel safe sharing these insecurities with you. Often, the list will include double chins, prominent noses, and heavy jowls, so you should take steps to minimize these in your photos.
One way to hide a double chin is to shoot from above eye level with your subject leaning slightly forward. If he’s seated, ask him to rest his forearms on his thighs and angle his knees 45° away from you.
You can also use lighting to your advantage. Strong, directional light can visually slim a face or a torso – it’s a trick that often comes in handy!
The photo on the left was shot from below eye level (the subject was taller than me and was standing) with light falling on both sides of his face. But the photo on the right, where my subject was seated and leaning forward with their head angled away from the camera, is more flattering. Note how strong light reflected off a wall in the late afternoon casts his neck and the left side of his face into shadow.
5. Give him something to do with his hands
When people are facing a camera with their arms hanging down at their sides, they suddenly become self-conscious. “What should I do with my hands?” they ask. And they’re onto something: Dangly hands generally don’t look good! So what do you do?
Instead of letting the hands hang awkwardly, ask him to put one or both hands in his pockets or loop his thumb over his belt. If he’s sitting, have him interlink his fingers or clasp his hands together. If you’re doing a family photoshoot, have him hold a baby or clasp a child’s hand.
You might also consider adding props (depending on the type of male photoshoots you’re conducting). For instance, your subject could hold a book (if he’s an author), a guitar (if he’s a musician), or even an umbrella (if you’re going for a moodier image).
6. Pay attention to the little details
Details such as eyes, lips, and hands help tell a story, and they often depict the connections between people. Of course, you should make sure to get all the wider shots – but don’t forget to zoom in every so often (a close-focusing lens is a big help here) and capture the details, even if they don’t seem like showstopping portrait material.
Hands are a personal favorite of mine. They’re a powerful expression of emotional connection and tenderness, and because of their size, men’s hands are often visually striking when placed side by side with the hands of children.
The portrait below shows a tender and playful moment between father and daughter. His hand is large next to hers, and she smiles as he kisses milk froth from her fingertips.
7. Don’t forget about retouching
Let’s face it: Cameras can be brutal. They do a great job of capturing all those little imperfections the naked eye generally doesn’t see, and they hold it in a static image for the eye to contemplate.
In some styles of male portraiture, this is actually useful. Elderly men with craggy faces are popular subjects for travel photographers and photojournalists. However, wrinkles and blemishes are not something you want to highlight in family photos or corporate headshots, so it’s important that you spend some time removing or minimizing these items in the editing room.
Men will give you hints during the consultation and the shoot. If he cracks jokes such as, “Can you Photoshop me to make me look 10 years younger?” or “Can you make me look like George Clooney?” he’s probably only half-kidding. Just because he’s a man doesn’t mean he’s okay with acne or out-of-place nose hairs.
Now, when it comes to editing, much will depend on your personal style. While I’m not a fan of heavily edited portraits, I still follow a careful Lightroom workflow. With men, I use the Brush tool to soften skin, but the effect is always subtle (his skin probably shouldn’t appear softer than a woman’s or child’s skin in the same photo).
When it comes to blemishes, my rule of thumb is to remove anything that is temporary. Pimples, scratches, stray hairs – if it’s going to be gone from his face in a couple of weeks, I’ll remove it from his face in the post-processing stage. But unless the client specifically asked me to, I wouldn’t remove a mole or a birthmark.
Additional resources for posing men
Looking for additional advice on creating amazing male poses? First, check out this hands-on video from Adorama; in it, expert portrait photographer Emily Teague walks you through the basics of masculine posing:
In this second video by Creative Live, instructor Jeff Rojas talks about body language and things to watch for, and also to avoid when posing males. Do you know what clenched fists or hands below the belt line mean? Watch this clip and find out.
Finally, give this Jerry Ghionis video a watch. Yes, it’s long, but the tips that Jerry provides are invaluable, and he does an amazing job of showing exactly what you need to do for top-notch male poses.
How to pose men: final words
Hopefully, you now have a starting point for your male poses! Remember that there are no absolutes; each sample pose might and should be adjusted depending on your shooting environment and scenario. There is no need to overdo anything.
In reality, all you need for good people portraits is simplicity:
Simple backgrounds, simple clothing, simple poses, and natural expressions.
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips for posing men that I missed? Any favorite male poses? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
