[Photography] Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide)

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

What is Program mode on your camera, and when should you use it?

Program mode is one of those “odd one out” camera settings – one that most folks never try because they simply don’t understand how it can help their photography.

Yet once you get the hang of it, Program mode is actually pretty darn useful. That’s why, in this article, I aim to share everything you need to know about this mode, including:

• What it actually is
• How it works
• How to use it for great results

So if you’re ready to become a Program mode master, then let’s get started.

What is Program mode?

The camera mode dial operates on something of a continuum. On one end, you have Manual mode, which gives you complete control over the three elements of exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. On the other end, you have Auto mode, which gives you almost no control over exposure.

As you can see in the diagram above, other modes exist in the middle of the spectrum. These modes – Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Program mode – give you some degree of control, but your camera does significant work, as well. For instance, Aperture Priority lets you control the aperture and ISO while the camera determines the proper shutter speed for a good exposure.

So what about Program mode? What does it do?

Program mode exists somewhere between Aperture/Shutter Priority and Auto mode, and it works like this:

You set the ISO, while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed.

(Remember: The ISO refers to the sensitivity of your camera sensor, the aperture refers to the lens diaphragm size, and the shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter captures light.)

Program mode also gives you control over other camera features, such as exposure compensation, but I’ll discuss that in a later section. For now, just remember that Program mode gives you ISO control, but leaves the aperture and shutter speed up to your camera.

(In fact, Program mode is sometimes referred to as “ISO Priority.”)

When is Program mode useful?

While Program mode isn’t nearly as popular as Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, it can make a big difference to your photography – you just have to know when to use it.

In essence, Program mode works best when you care about the ISO, but you don’t care about the shutter speed and the aperture. This is either because you know that your camera will automatically give sufficient shutter speed and aperture values or because these settings won’t affect the final result in a meaningful way.

So if you’re shooting outdoors and you want to produce minimal noise in your photos, you might select Program mode, dial in a low ISO, and then let your camera do the rest.

I shot this using Program mode, which let me tweak my exposure settings on the fly.

Or if you’re photographing under powerful artificial lights, you might tell your camera to keep the ISO low, then trust it to nail the remaining exposure variables.

Bottom line:

If all you want to do is adjust the ISO, you’re set. Put your camera in Program mode, change the ISO, and focus on composing and framing your shots rather than thinking about the aperture, shutter speed, and overall exposure.

But that’s not Program mode’s only use. You see, Program mode is also a great transition mode. If you’re aiming to improve your photography skills but you’re still stuck on Auto mode, you might try leveling up to Program mode; you can then use it as a stepping stone to Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and beyond.

Program mode: beyond the basics

At this point, you should be comfortable with the Program mode basics: You set the ISO, and your camera does the rest.

But if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find more useful features to unlock. Many of these can help you get the shot you want, instead of the shot your camera thinks you want. In this way, Program mode is like the late-night infomercial version of Auto; it handles all the nitty-gritty complicated stuff for you, but ends with a, “Wait, there’s more!”

First, Program mode allows you to use exposure compensation to correct any exposure mistakes. By adjusting the exposure compensation in one direction, you can force your camera to take brighter images, and by adjusting it in the other direction, you’ll get the reverse.

Say you take a photo of snow and it turns out too dark. With a little exposure compensation, you can bring back the snow’s natural brightness (note that you can’t do that in Auto mode).

And you can adjust plenty of other camera settings while in Program mode, including white balance, metering mode (full/center/spot), point of focus, and whether your camera should use its flash.

(Contrast this with Auto mode, and you should start to see the usefulness of the humble little “P” marker on your camera’s mode dial.)

Of course, Program mode isn’t always the way to go. Sometimes, you’ll want to independently adjust your shutter speed or your aperture, in which case one of the Priority options, or even Manual mode, is the right choice.

But when ISO is all that matters, give Program mode a try.

Shooting in Program mode gave me a good overall exposure, but I didn’t like how the microphone was so dark.

I switched to spot metering, retook the shot, and got what I wanted. Program allows for this flexibility, whereas Auto does not!

Program mode: final words

Program mode is a handy little option, even if it’s often eclipsed by Manual, Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority.

So the next time you don’t want to give up all control over your camera but also don’t want to do everything yourself, consider Program mode. You might ask yourself, “Do I need to adjust the aperture? And do I need to adjust the shutter speed?”

If the answer is “No,” then Program mode is probably your best option!

Now over to you:

Do you use Program mode? Do you plan to start using it? Why or why not? What do you think of it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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[Photography] How to Use the Canon Camera Connect App (in 2021)

The post How to Use the Canon Camera Connect App (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

In this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about using the Canon Camera Connect app, including:

• How to connect your camera to the app
• The ins and outs of the app interface
• What the app can do for you as a photographer

So if you’re struggling to get your camera connected to the app, or you simply want to know how you can use the app to revolutionize your photography, then you’ve come to the right place.

Let’s jump right in.

Step 1: Check for compatibility and download the app

Canon Camera Connect is a free app available for download on Android and iOS devices. To get started, head to the Play Store or the App Store and hit Install.

The app is compatible with a broad range of Canon digital cameras, including:

• Over a dozen Canon PowerShot models
• Plenty of Canon DSLRs, including the 5D Mark IV, the 6D Mark II, and the Rebel SL3
• Canon’s mirrorless lineup, including the EOS RP, the EOS R, the EOS R5, and the EOS R6

If you’re not sure whether your camera is compatible with the Canon Camera Connect app, you can check the full compatibility specs here, though bear in mind that the compatibility list hasn’t been updated to include Canon’s latest camera models. Alternatively, you can download the app and search for your camera:

Step 2: Connect your camera to the app

The specifics of this step will vary depending on your camera model. Fortunately, the Canon Camera Connect app offers startup instructions that take into account these variations.

In the app, select Easy Connection Guide:

Then hit Connect another camera/camcorder:

Next, search for your camera model:

Depending on your camera’s capabilities, you may have the option to connect via Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or NFC. Canon recommends Bluetooth for the best connection, but any of the three options should work.

Finally, head through the setup instructions.

By the time you’ve finished, your camera should be paired with the app and ready to go.

Step 3: Explore the interface of the Canon Camera Connect App

After you have successfully connected your phone to your camera, head back to the app home page. The menu is minimal and pretty straightforward.

While the app offers several functions – including the ability to automatically download photos from your camera to your phone – you’ll generally stick to the top two options:

• Images on camera
• Remote live view shooting

Let’s take a look at each of these items in turn:

Images on camera

Selecting Images on camera will show you a gallery of all the images on your connected camera (i.e., on the camera’s memory card), sorted by the date they were taken.

To open an image, simply tap it with your finger. You’ll see it displayed large.

At the bottom of the screen, you’ll find several useful options, including Info (which lets you view camera settings for the file), Rating (which lets you give your file a rating between one and five stars), Import (which lets you download the file to your phone), and Delete (in case you want to erase the image from your camera on the spot).

Remote live view shooting

Selecting Remote live view shooting will give you a live camera feed on your phone. Hit the big circle at the bottom of the screen to fire the camera shutter.

You can make adjustments to settings, too; for instance, from your phone, you can change the point of focus, the shutter speed, the aperture, the ISO, the white balance, the AF area mode, and more.

When to use the app for amazing results

Now that you’re familiar with the Canon Camera Connect app basics, let’s discuss some common situations where the app can help your photography, starting with:

1. Photographing landscapes without a dedicated remote trigger

When shooting landscapes, it’s best to avoid using the shutter button to take photos. After all, most landscape photography occurs at slow shutter speeds, where the action of pressing the shutter button can introduce unwanted blur.

So what do you do?

Well, most landscape shooters rely on one of two options: They either carry a remote trigger, or they use the camera self-timer.

Unfortunately, both these methods come with significant drawbacks. It’s easy to forget a remote trigger at home, plus it requires batteries of its own, and it introduces yet another element of uncertainty into a camera setup. And the camera self-timer fails when you’re trying to photograph moving objects, such as a wave coming in on the beach; thanks to the delay, you rarely end up with the result you envision.

Enter the Canon Camera Connect app, which lets you fire your camera remotely, straight from your phone. You don’t need to carry anything extra (except for a smartphone, of course, but these days, who doesn’t?). And you don’t have to worry about self-timer delays.

2. Photographing from odd angles

If you’re the type of photographer who shoots from down low, up high, or any other uncomfortable positions, you’re going to love the Camera Connect app.

Simply turn on the remote live view shooting option, then position your camera without hurting your neck or scraping your elbows.

Preview the composition and exposure through your smartphone feed, then take your photo.

3. Doing street photography from the hip

In street photography, the goal often is to shoot without being noticed by your subject.

This has led street photographers to develop various techniques for shooting inconspicuously, including shooting from the hip, which involves blindly firing your camera without looking through the viewfinder.

Unfortunately, shooting from the hip, while discreet, results in very few keepers – unless you preview images through the Camera Connect app first.

In other words:

Set up your shots the way you normally would, with your camera held below eye level. But hold your phone in one hand and surreptitiously check the remote feed for framing information. That way, you can ensure your compositions look good before firing the shutter button, and your keeper rate will immediately skyrocket.

Make sense?

4. Product photography from a distance

If you like to shoot products (or any still life subjects, really) with studio lighting, you probably spend a lot of time walking to your lights, then back to your camera, then back to the lights, and back to your camera, and so on.

It may not seem like a lot, and if you’re just starting out, it probably isn’t. But over time, moving back and forth between camera and lights can become frustrating, and you’ll wish you had some way to simplify the process – such as the Canon Camera Connect app.

With the app, you can preview images and fire off test shots while standing next to your lights, then simply reach over and make adjustments to your light settings without needing to journey to your camera and back.

How to use the Canon Camera Connect app: final words

Well, there you have it:

How (and why) to use the Canon Camera Connect app. Hopefully, you can now confidently connect your camera to the app – and use it to improve your photography workflow!

The post How to Use the Canon Camera Connect App (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

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[Photography] The Best Street Photography Settings (And Why)

The post The Best Street Photography Settings (And Why) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Olivier Duong.

What are the best street photography settings?

Street photography can be tricky, but as an experienced shooter, I’ve spent a lot of time experimenting with different settings. Over the years, I’ve determined what works – and what doesn’t. That’s why, in this article, I’m going to share my favorite settings for street shooting, including:

• The best autofocus mode
• The best aperture
• The best shutter speed
• (And more!)

So if you’re ready to start setting up your shots like the masters, then keep reading.

The best street photography settings: one caveat

Before I start discussing my favorite street photography settings and how they’re great for capturing photos on the fly, let’s get something straight:

If you have certain street settings that work for you and get you the shots you’re after, then by all means, keep using them. You’ve found the settings that fit you best, and you should probably stick with them.

After all, there’s no single set of all-around amazing settings. Instead, what I am presenting in this article are the tried-and-true settings that most street photographers prefer today and that past photographers have loved, but that might not resonate with you.

So read this article carefully and consider my suggestions. If they work for you, great! But if they don’t work for you, that’s okay, too, and you should continue to shoot with pride.

The best focus settings for street photography

Did you know that the best way to focus in street photography is faster than autofocus?

I know, I know. You’re probably wondering: what could be faster than the latest autofocus, with its Eye AF and snazzy tracking algorithms?

I’ll tell you:

Prefocusing, also known as zone focusing.

You see, many of the best street photographers simply prefocus their lens a few feet in front of the camera, make sure their subjects are within the prefocused zone of sharpness, then hit the shutter button.

Check out this illustration, which includes several possible prefocus zones:

You see, by manually focusing the lens in advance, the photographer can ensure that either the blue zone or the red zone appears in focus all the time. That way, if a subject walks into the prefocused zone, the photographer can grab a sharp shot without needing to fiddle with autofocus settings.

Because here’s the thing:

Even if you have the fastest autofocus in the world, there’s always going to be a focusing delay. Plus, the autofocus might miss your main subject and hit another subject instead.

(With people coming toward you, the AF will likely focus on the closest person, which might not be the person you want to focus on. So you’ll need to focus and recompose, which takes time, and once you’re ready to actually nail focus, the moment will likely have passed and you’ll have missed your shot.)

Zone focusing eliminates those problems because a zone is like a force field in front of your camera. Anything that enters the force field will be in focus, which is pretty darn nifty, right?

How to set up zone focusing

To set up your prefocused zone, you’ll need to determine the type of shots you want to take.

So ask yourself: Do I want photos of close-up subjects, or do I want to shoot people from a distance? That will determine where you need to focus.

Let’s say you want to take a few shots with your subject less than one meter away. All you need to do is to put your lens like so:

The aperture is at f/16, so you should put the marking on the left to 0.7, then look at the “16” marking on the right. Do you see how it’s at “1.2”? That tells you that everything between 0.7 to 1.2 meters will be in focus.

The way aperture works, the farther away you are, the larger the depth of field, so putting the point of focus at one meter will keep a lot of space in focus.

And if you want to photograph people over a meter away, you can put the leftmost “16” to “1” and look at the rightmost “16” to determine your most distant area of focus.

“But my lens doesn’t have those marks,” you protest. That’s where a tool like DOFMaster comes in handy:

Simply select your camera from the dropdown menu, then dial in your lens’s focal length. Pick your f-stop (I’ll discuss this more in a later section), set your ideal subject distance (i.e., point of focus), then hit Calculate.

On the right-hand side, you’ll see your focusing zone (it will correspond to the near limit and far limit calculations). If you like the focusing zone, then manually focus at the subject distance and get shooting. If you don’t like the focusing zone, then feel free to adjust your f-stop, your subject distance, and even your focal length until you get a pleasing result.

Note: When you select a focal length and an aperture, the calculator will also give you the hyperfocal distance for those settings, which is the point at which you can focus for maximum depth of field. Set your lens to the hyperfocal distance, and everything from half that distance to infinity will stay in focus – which is perfect if you want to keep as much of the frame as sharp as possible.

In fact, most street photographers I know set their lenses to focus at the hyperfocal distance. It’s only when the light starts dropping that they’ll start to widen the aperture and rein in their point of focus; that way, they can keep their exposures looking bright and keep their subjects sharp.

The best aperture for street photography

I’ve talked lots and lots about zones and points of focus, but you may be wondering:

What aperture should I use for street photography?

Dial in the narrowest aperture you can afford. Use f/8 as a starting point, but if you can go narrower, do it. As I mentioned above, when the light starts to drop, you may need to widen your aperture to keep a nice exposure, and that’s okay – just be mindful of how this will affect your zone of focus.

The best shutter speed and ISO for street photography

Once you’ve chosen your focus and aperture, what about your other settings?

You’ve got a few choices. First of all, you can use Aperture Priority mode, so your camera will automatically choose the shutter speed (though you can still adjust the latter via exposure compensation). Or you can use Manual mode and select the shutter speed (and the ISO) yourself. Either option is fine, so try them both out and see what you think.

In terms of shutter speed specifics, I recommend staying above 1/125s. Stuff usually happens fast on the streets, and below 1/125s there is a risk of camera shake. If your subject is moving quickly (e.g., you’re shooting a biker), you may want to boost the shutter speed to 1/250s or faster to prevent motion blur.

At this point, all that’s left is the ISO. You could consider Auto ISO with some sort of cap – ISO 1600 is a good choice. Or you could start at around ISO 200, then increase it as required. Many street shots actually look good at high ISOs – the grain is nice, especially in black and white – so don’t worry too much about pushing your ISO beyond its standard acceptable value.

The best street photography settings, recapped

Here is my list of the best settings for street photography:

• Shooting mode: Aperture Priority
• Aperture: f/8
• Point of focus: the hyperfocal distance, or within your selected zone
• Shutter speed: 1/125s or faster
• ISO: 200, or Auto ISO capped at ISO 1600

One of the strengths of this system is that it accounts for rapid transitions. For instance, imagine you are walking out of a building, heading from a shadowy interior to a sunny street. If you are shooting in Manual mode rather than Aperture Priority, you probably need to increase your shutter speed by three stops – and during this time, you may miss out on an incredible opportunity. However, if you’re using Aperture Priority mode, your camera will make the shutter speed adjustment for you, and you’ll instantly be ready to shoot.

Make sense?

The best street photography settings: final words

There you have it:

The street photography settings that will get you the most keepers, and that have been used consistently by the famous photographers of the past (and present).

So try them out. See how you like them. Of course, it’s still possible to take great street photos with other settings – so if you decide to go a different route, that’s okay, too.

Now over to you:

What do you think of these street settings? Do you have other settings that you prefer? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Street Photography

• GENERAL
  • 10 Tips for the Aspiring Street Photographer
  • 7 Street Photography Rules That Should Be Broken
  • How to Approach Street Photography in 12 Easy Steps
  • 50 Things I Try to Avoid in Street Photography
  • 5 Questions to Ask Yourself to Help Improve Your People Photography
  • 5 Exercises to Improve Your Street Photography
• PREPARATION
  • 7 Steps to Get Over Your Fear of Street Photography
  • How to Plan a Street Photography Shoot When Traveling
• SETTINGS
  • Zone Focusing: How to (Always) Capture Sharp Street Photos
  • What are the Best Street Photography Camera Settings and Why

    • The best street photography settings: one caveat
    • How to set up zone focusing
    • The best shutter speed and ISO for street photography
    • The best street photography settings: final words
    • The best street photography settings: one caveat
    • How to set up zone focusing
    • The best shutter speed and ISO for street photography
    • The best street photography settings: final words
• LIGHTING
  • There is No Bad Light for Street Photography
  • Make the Most of High Contrast Lighting for Dramatic Street Photos
• COMPOSITION
  • The Importance of Capturing Gesture and Emotion in Street Photography
  • Seeing and Street Photography
    • 13 Great Subjects for Urban Night Photography
  • How to Avoid Distracting Backgrounds in Street Photography
  • How the Square Format Can Enhance Your Street Photography
  • Tips for Minimalist Photography in an Urban Environment
  • How to Improve the Impact of Your Urban Images Using Lines
  • How to Use Framing in an Urban Environment
• GEAR
  • 5 Reasons Why Shooting With a Rangefinder Will Make You a Better Street Photographer
  • Pros and Cons of a Telephoto Lens for Street Photography?
  • The Five Key Features on any Street Photography Camera
  • Which Street Photography Lens is Right for You?
  • 6 Reasons Why You Should Use a Standard Lens for Street Photography
  • A Look at the Fujifilm X100V in Action for Street Photography (video)
  • How to Use a Wide-Angle Lens for People Photography
  • Street Photography with $10 Ilford HP5 Film Camera
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 8 Advanced Street Photography Tips to Get You to the Next Level
  • Getting Close and Personal: 11 Tips for Close-up Candid Street Photography
  • 7 Tips for a More Anonymous Approach to Street Photography
  • A Cowards Guide to Street Photography
  • 6 Tips for Aiming Low and Going Unnoticed in Street Photography
  • 9 Tips for Creating Great Street Portraits
  • Street Portraits vs Street Photography: What is the Difference?
  • 17 Tips for Shooting Better Urban Portraits
  • What Makes A Great Street Photograph and How Do We Create Them
  • How to Tell a Story With Your Street Photography
  • In the Dark: 10 Tips for Street Night Photography
  • 7 Tips for Urban Landscape Photography
  • A Street Photographer’s Guide to New York City
  • Urban Exploration Photography – Urbex
  • 7 Tips for Capturing the Decisive Moment in Street Photography
  • A Common Misconception About Street Photography – Just Take Photos of People Walking
  • What do I look for on a Photo Walk? Part 1 – City Walk
  • 8 Things You Should Know if You are Dating a Street Photographer
  • 7 Ways to Become More Spontaneous with Your Street Photography
  • 5 Essential Shots You Need to Get for Street Market Photography
  • Using Humor In Street Photography
  • Watch a Street Photographer Going about a Shoot [VIDEO]
  • Using Street Photography to See Beyond the Ordinary
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • 5 Tips for Shooting Glass to Enhance Your Street Photographs
  • Window Street Photography ~ Try Something New And Grow!
  • The Pros and Cons of Black and White Versus Color for Street and Travel Photography
  • 4 Ways to Add a Sense of Motion to Your Urban Photography
  • 7 Steps to Create Street Photography Silhouettes
• POST-PROCESSING
  • How to Enhance Urban Night Photographs Using Luminosity Masks in Photoshop
  • 13 Steps for Editing Street Photography in Lightroom from Start to Finish
  • How to Turn Day to Night Using Photoshop for Urban Landscapes
• BUSINESS
  • Model Releases: Working with People on the Streets
• INSPIRATION
  • 20 Beautiful Examples of Urban Decay Photography
  • 30 Street Photography Images to Inspire You
  • 33 Gritty Photos of Graffiti Street Art
  • 28 Diverse Images That Showcase People Photography
  • 39 Street Photography Images That Have Common Threads
  • Focus on Thomas Leuthard – Street Photographer
  • Focus on Street Photographer Eric Kim ~ In your face with a smile!
  • Focus on Chris Porsz ~ It’s All About The People
  • Focus on Scott Frederick – Urban Explorer
• OPINION
  • The Uncomfortable Truth About Street Photography
  • Street Photography: Exploitative vs Respect
  • To be or not to be a Street Photographer
  • Consent in Photography – What to Think About When Photographing People

The post The Best Street Photography Settings (And Why) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Olivier Duong.

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