[Photography] Songs About Photography: 11 Great Options (+ Link to Playlist!)

The post Songs About Photography: 11 Great Options (+ Link to Playlist!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

Looking for songs about photography? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I share 11 inspiring songs, all of which feature cameras, photographers, photography, and photographic themes.

So if you’re in need of some songs about photographs – whether you’re a photographer looking for inspiration or a casual listener who likes photography – then read on!

1. “Kodachrome,” by Paul Simon

“Kodachrome” is the lead single from Paul Simon’s third studio album There Goes Rhymin’ Simon (1973), named after the 35mm film format introduced by Eastman Kodak in 1935.

Referring to the unique characteristics of the Kodak film and its effect on visual culture, Simon sings, “They give us those nice bright colors / They give us the greens of summers.”

Interestingly, while the album version of “Kodachrome” states that “everything looks worse in black and white,” Simon later went on to perform the song live with different lyrics: “Everything looks better in black and white.”

In an interview with Daniel Levitin for Grammy Magazine in 1997, Simon stated, “I can’t remember which way I originally wrote it, better or worse, but I always change it.”

2. “Picture This,” by Blondie

“All I want is a photo in my wallet, a small remembrance of something more solid…”

Blondie’s “Picture This“ touches on the driving force behind a considerable amount of photography: the desire to preserve memory.

Blondie’s first two albums were hits in many parts of the world but failed to garner much attention in America.

However, “Picture This,” the band’s first overseas single in 1978, became Blondie’s breakthrough track in the U.S.

3. “This Is Not a Photograph,” by Mission of Burma

Short and to the point, Mission of Burma’s “This Is Not a Photograph,” is probably a reference to La Trahison des Images (The Treachery of Images), painted by surrealist René Magritte.

Magritte’s piece, which pairs the image of a pipe with the phrase “Ceci n’est pas une pipe“ – this is not a pipe – illustrates the duality of the artistically rendered subject matter. The artwork also speaks to the intention and power of the artist.

As the lyrics declare, the song “This Is Not a Photograph” is clearly not a photograph – though it maintains photographic qualities as a marker of a specific moment in time.

4. “Camera,” by R.E.M

A pioneer of alternative rock, R.E.M. is known for hits such as “Losing My Religion,” “Everybody Hurts,” “Man on the Moon,” and “The One I Love.”

But before their breakthrough stardom, songs like “Camera” established the distinctive lyrics and jangly riffs that would mark R.E.M.’s approach to music.

Featured on the 1984 album Reckoning, “Camera” was written about the death of photographer Carol Levy.

The lyrics, “Will you be remembered? Will she be remembered?” refer to memory and perhaps even the power of the camera to stop time.

R.E.M. also released a second song about photography, entitled “Photograph” (done in collaboration with Natalie Merchant).

The song speculates about the story of a photograph found “in stacks between the old joist walls / In a place where time is lost.”

5. “Swap Meet,” by Nirvana

Formed in 1987, American grunge band Nirvana rose to fame with the success of “Smells Like Teen Spirit,” “About a Girl,” and “Come as You Are.”

The song “Swap Meet,” featured on the 1989 album Bleach, paints a moody picture of a couple who “make a living off of arts and crafts.”

The song’s chorus illustrates the entanglement of keeping cigarettes (addiction), photographs (memories), and bitterness close to the heart.

6. “Distant Camera,” by Neil Young

Released in 2000, Silver & Gold is Neil Young’s 23rd studio album.

For a Reprise Records promotional piece, Young wrote a comment about each new song. When discussing “Distant Camera,” Young explains, “There was one thing I let go on this album. It’s on this song and it still bothers me. There was a misplaced beat and nobody liked it but me, and I wanted to leave it in because that’s just the way it had happened originally. But I took it out, and to this day, whenever I hear this song I think about that kick drum. And I probably always will. That’s just the way my mind works.”

Despite Young’s dissatisfaction, Distant Camera is a touching song about love, change, memory and time.

7. “Kamera,” by Wilco

“Kamera” is a song by Chicago-based indie-rock band Wilco, featured on the 2001 album Yankee Hotel Foxtrot.

The subject of the song appears to view the camera as a tool to remind them of “which lies I have been hiding / Which echoes belong.”

In other words, the camera is presented as a revealer of truths, a property that has been extensively explored – and debated – throughout the history of photography.

8. “Seventeen,” by Ladytron

“Seventeen” is featured on Ladytron’s 2002 album, Light & Magic.

The song is made up of a single repeating verse:

“They only want you when you’re seventeen / When you’re 21, you’re no fun / They take a Polaroid and let you go / Say they’ll let you know, so come on.”

Paired with a robotic musical score and voice modulators, “Seventeen” could well be about the exploitative, youth-obsessed culture of the entertainment and fashion business.

“They take a Polaroid and let you go” indicates the process used by those who select models, but it could also refer to a part of a person’s psyche being stolen by the industry.

9. “Paparazzi,” by Lady Gaga

In 2008, Lady Gaga dropped her debut studio album, The Fame.

“Paparazzi” was released as the album’s fifth and final single, and the song quickly rose to the top of music charts across the globe.

Speaking about the song’s meaning, Lady Gaga has said, “There are a few different interpretations…It’s a love song for the cameras, but it’s also a love song about fame or love – can you have both, or can you only have one?”

“Paparazzi” alludes to the camera as a tool that drives the trajectory of fame.

10. “Itchin’ on a Photograph,” by Grouplove

American alternative-rock band Grouplove formed in 2009 and released their debut album, Never Trust a Happy Song, in 2011.

The third single off the album, “Itchin’ on a Photograph,” reached number 43 on Australian national radio station Triple J’s Hottest 100. The song also reached number 10 on Billboard’s Alternative Songs and number 30 on Billboard’s Hot Rock Songs.

“Itchin’ on a Photograph” delves into the emotional and physical experience of dwelling on the past.

Building on a central theme of memory, the photograph represents a source of discomfort, but also a stepping stone from which the subject alights.

11. “Taro,” by alt-J

“Taro” is written by English indie-rock band alt-J and features on the 2012 album An Awesome Wave.

The song is about war-photojournalist couple Robert Capa and Gerda Taro.

In 1934, Endre Erno Friedmann met Gerda Pohorylle, a German-Jewish refugee. In Paris, the pair invented the name and image of Robert Capa.

For a while, Friedmann and Pohorylle both published their photographic work under the Robert Capa name. Pohorylle eventually took the name “Gerda Taro” and became successful in her own right, while Friedmann retained the Capa identity.

Sadly, both Taro and Capa died during conflict.

Taro was killed in 1937 while covering the Republican Army retreat at the Battle of Brunete. Capa died in 1954 when he stepped on a land mine in Thai Binh in Indochina.

Alt-J’s song “Taro” describes the lives of these two pioneering photographers and their reunification in the afterlife.

Songs about photography: final words

I hope you’ve enjoyed this list of songs about photographs. Photography and music are similar in many ways; perhaps that’s why the combination of photographic themes and music creates such compelling listening.

If you’d like to treat your ears to plenty more photography songs, you can check out this wonderful Songs About Photography Spotify playlist.

And if I’ve missed your favorite photography-based song, share it in the comments!

Happy listening!

The post Songs About Photography: 11 Great Options (+ Link to Playlist!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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[Photography] Travel Photography Settings: A Practical Guide

The post Travel Photography Settings: A Practical Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Looking for the best travel photography settings? You’ve come to the right place.

In this guide, I take you through the settings you need to capture stunning travel photos, including:

• The travel camera mode that I highly recommend
• The best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for travel photography
• How to set up your camera for beautiful shots of church cathedrals and other interiors
• Much more!

Of course, there is no single list of perfect settings for travel photography; it depends on the situation. That’s why, at the end of the article, I detail a few specific scenarios, and I share my approach (including the exact settings I use for each one).

So whether you are looking to head out on your first travel photography adventure or you’re an intermediate-level photographer hoping to really explore more advanced settings for different scenarios, this guide is for you.

Let’s dive right in.

The best settings for travel photography: getting started

While modern cameras offer a huge array of settings, you only need to understand a few specific items to achieve beautiful travel shots: camera mode, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

So in this section, I offer practical guidelines for adjusting each of these settings (based on years of experience as a professional travel shooter).

The best camera mode for travel photography

Travel photography settings starts by picking a camera mode. These modes determine which specific camera settings you control – and which settings are chosen by your camera.

Now, most cameras offer basic modes, such as “Auto,” “People,” “Landscape,” and “Macro,” but I recommend you avoid these. While they make travel photography very easy – just point and click! – they’re not especially intelligent. They don’t know what you’re shooting, and so they won’t get you consistently great results.

Instead, look to your camera’s other modes, such as Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, and even Manual mode.

These modes are where the power is at; they let you carefully specify key settings, such as aperture and shutter speed (more on these in a moment!).

Aperture Priority mode, for instance, lets you choose an aperture and ISO while your camera selects a shutter speed (with the goal of getting a bright, well-exposed image).

Shutter Priority mode, on the other hand, lets you choose the shutter speed and ISO, while your camera selects an aperture.

And then there’s Manual mode, which gives you complete control over all settings and tells your camera to let you do all the hard work.

Personally, I’m a fan of Aperture Priority mode. It offers plenty of control, but it also makes selecting the right settings quicker. You simply dial in an aperture and an ISO, your camera picks a shutter speed, and you can start capturing some beautiful travel shots.

The best aperture for travel photography

Aperture refers to the opening in your camera lens, which widens and narrows to let in more or less light, respectively.

Note that different aperture sizes are referred to using f-stops, where a low f-stop (such as f/1.4) corresponds to a wide aperture, and a high f-stop (such as f/22) corresponds to a narrow aperture.

What does an aperture do? For one, it adjusts image brightness (i.e., exposure). Wider apertures let in more light, which in turn creates a brighter image (so if you’re shooting when the light is low, you can widen your aperture to brighten up your shots).

Second, the aperture adjusts the depth of field, which refers to the amount of your image that appears sharp. A wide aperture will create a very small window of focus, while a narrow aperture will keep the entire shot sharp from foreground to background.

I used a narrow aperture to keep this entire scene – from foreground to background – in focus.

The best aperture for travel photography depends on your intentions. If you’re doing travel portraits or detail shots, a wide aperture – such as f/2.8 – is ideal, as it will create a beautiful blurred background effect. This, in turn, will show off your subject.

But if your goal is to create landscape-style images that emphasize every little detail, from grass in the foreground to mountains in the background, a narrow aperture – such as f/11 – is the better choice.

Personally, I tend to shoot at around f/8 to f/22 as it lets me showcase plenty of stunning details when capturing landscapes and cityscape scenes. But it’s a good idea to vary your aperture depending on the scene, the subject, and personal preference.

The best shutter speed for travel photography

The shutter speed is the length of time your camera shutter stays open – in other words, the length of time you are actually taking a photo.

Longer shutter speeds let in more light, which is helpful when shooting at night and during sunrise and sunset. But lengthy shutter speeds also produce image blur. To shoot photos at a shutter speed below 1/60s or so, you’ll need a tripod; otherwise, you’ll end up with soft, unusable images.

So what shutter speed is best for travel photography? If you’re working in bright light, you can easily set your shutter speed to above 1/200s or so, which will keep your photos sharp (even if they feature moving people).

However, once the light starts to decrease, you’ll either need to lower your shutter speed or raise your ISO to keep your exposures nice and bright. If you have a tripod handy, then dropping your shutter speed is fine – and it’ll even help you create beautiful long-exposure landscape photos like this one:

The best ISO for travel photography

ISO refers to your camera’s sensitivity to light.

The higher the ISO, the more sensitive your camera becomes, and the brighter the resulting image.

Unfortunately, high ISOs also produce noise, which looks bad and will quickly ruin image quality.

So what do you do?

When the light is good or you’re working with a tripod, keep your ISO as low as you can (around ISO 100). That way, you get the best-quality travel images.

But when the light drops, if you’re shooting handheld, raise the ISO as much as necessary (and never more). Boosting the ISO will keep your shots well exposed even if you use a fast shutter speed, so when working handheld in low light, it’s a sacrifice you have to make – just don’t push it any further than you need to.

Advanced travel photography settings

Once you’ve mastered your basic settings, think about how you might respond in particular situations. For instance, if you’re photographing a beautiful mountain sunrise, what settings should you use? What if you take street shots around noon? What if you head inside a cathedral?

In this section, I take a deep dive into the best travel settings for different shooting scenarios.

Scenario 1: Landscapes at sunrise and sunset

Sunrises and sunsets offer incredible opportunities to capture the landscape bathed in glorious light. But you have to choose your settings very quickly; otherwise, the beauty will pass and you’ll miss your chance. Here are the settings I like to use in such travel landscape situations:

• Camera mode: Aperture Priority
• Aperture: For landscapes, I will generally select an aperture of around f/8, as my goal is to keep the entire scene sharp. However, if I’m looking to focus on a particular subject and blur the background or foreground, I’ll widen my aperture to f/4 or f/5.6.
• Shutter speed: When working in Aperture Priority mode, the camera will select the corresponding shutter speed; as I’ll be working on a tripod, I simply go with whatever the camera gives me.
• ISO: 100. By keeping the ISO low, I prevent the image from becoming noisy.

Scenario 2: Sunny midday street shots

When photographing travel street scenes during the day, you’ll often have lots of good light – but you need to be ready in case your subject moves into the shade or clouds block out the sun.

I recommend the following settings:

• Camera mode: Aperture Priority. This allows me to respond quickly to changes in the light (as my camera will adjust the shutter speed automatically!).
• Aperture: Around f/8. My goal is to keep the subject and the surrounding environment in focus, so I select a narrow aperture for a deep depth of field.
• Shutter speed: 1/60s is a good starting shutter speed. However, if your subject is moving or you’re using a long lens, you’ll want to increase this (often to around 1/250s or more).
• ISO: I start at ISO 100, but if I need a faster shutter speed (i.e., if the camera has dropped the shutter below 1/60s or I’m photographing moving subjects), I’ll increase it as required.

Scenario 3: Cathedral interior

Church and cathedral interiors are often dimly lit, so you’ll need to take certain steps to keep your shots sharp. My best advice is to mount your camera on a tripod, though if that’s not an option, then be sure to use a camera and/or a lens with powerful in-built image stabilization.

I generally select my settings as follows:

• Camera mode: Aperture Priority. (Sensing a pattern? I really like Aperture Priority!)
• Aperture: Around f/8; I want to keep the entire shot in focus, including the floor, walls, and ceiling.
• Shutter speed: Around 1/60s or more to prevent blur due to camera shake. However, I may drop this when using a tripod.
• ISO: ISO 400. While you should always try to keep your ISO to a minimum, you’ll generally need to increase it when shooting indoors, especially if you’re handholding your shots.

Scenario 4: Animals in the wild

When traveling, you may have opportunities to capture the local wildlife (and potentially at very close range). Wildlife photography is very different from standard travel photography – you’ll need to work quickly and keep your finger on the shutter button. I also recommend using your camera’s burst mode; that way, you’ll be able to nail any split-second opportunities that may appear.

Here are my recommended settings:

• Camera mode: Aperture Priority. This mode is especially critical when shooting wildlife. If you spend too much time fiddling around with manual settings, you’ll often miss the shot.
• Aperture: f/5.6 – f/8. It’s important to keep the entire animal in focus, so I try to avoid widening my aperture past f/5.6 or so.
• Shutter speed: 1/200s or more. Animals often move fast, and you need a fast shutter speed to freeze that motion!
• ISO: 100-200, though don’t be afraid to raise it as the light drops.

Travel photography settings: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to head out and tackle some travel photos of your own.

Just remember: The best travel settings suggested here are meant as a general guide and can vary depending on what you are shooting. If you feel a setting doesn’t work for you, that’s okay! Over time, you may even find that you prefer different settings when doing travel photography.

Now over to you:

Where do you plan to travel next? What type of travel subjects do you plan to shoot? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Travel Photography Settings: A Practical Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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[Photography] Still Life Photography: 5 Tips to Level Up Your Shots

The post Still Life Photography: 5 Tips to Level Up Your Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

Want to capture stunning still life photography?

In this article, I offer five easy ways to improve your still life images. I cover all the key elements (including lighting, composition, and editing) – so that, no matter your camera gear, you’ll be ready to shoot some amazing still life shots of your own.

Let’s get started.

1. Pick items that interest you

Still life photography starts with subject choice…

…but in truth, there are no “best” still life subjects. Ideal subjects are simply items that interest you, and they can come from anywhere, including:

• Around your house
• Flea markets and thrift stores
• Estate sales
• The grocery store
• The florist

Of course, the words “still life” generally conjure up visions of vases of flowers, pears on candlelit tables, old paper, and violins. And you can certainly capture beautiful still life shots by obtaining and arranging these “classical” items.

But you don’t need to spend time pursuing such images if they don’t interest you. Instead, ask yourself: What is meaningful to me? What objects do I love? Is there a story I would like to tell with my still life?

Alternatively, you might look for items that simply catch your eye. This next shot contains a piece of dried seaweed on some calico. Was the seaweed meaningful to me? Not really. Did it tell a story? Nope. It simply looked beautiful, so I wanted to capture it!

Finally, you can capture “found” still life arrangements – that is, still life arrangements that already exist (in houses, backyards, or on the street). Here’s a found still life, taken of a friend’s bedside table:

When picking still life subjects, here’s my final piece of advice:

If you’re stuck, just find some items that are personal and important to you, such as:

• Family heirlooms
• Pictures containing relatives
• Books that you love

Then, after a bit of arranging, you’ll capture a still life that’s loaded with meaning!

2. Carefully select a background

The background can make – or break- your still life. If you want great results, you must choose your background with great care.

Specifically, don’t choose a background that features distracting elements. Avoid eye-catching colors that draw the eye, and if you use fabric, make sure you iron it first (few things are more distracting than a wrinkled backdrop!).

Instead, keep it simple. Fabric, cardboard, and existing walls often work great, provided that they’re relatively plain. The goal is to emphasize your still life subjects (so the viewer knows exactly where to look).

Here’s an image featuring a plain backdrop made from a couple of old potato sacks:

And here’s another shot, this time featuring a sheet of red fabric:

Also, experimentation is important! Different background textures and colors can complement your subjects in different ways, so it pays to test out a few options before deciding on a final arrangement. You may be surprised by the backdrops that make your still life really pop.

After trying several solid-color backdrops for this image, I experimented with some reflective cardboard (and I loved the result).

And you might even try experimenting with focus and depth of field. For instance, create a shallow depth of field effect, where you keep the front element sharp and the background blurry. Then try the opposite: Use a narrow aperture to keep the still life items and the background tack-sharp. See which you prefer!

3. Get creative with still life lighting

Light is an essential component of still life photography, and many still lifes feature beautiful lighting arrangements (which often create moody, painterly effects).

But it’s important to realize that you don’t need fancy lighting to create a stunning still life. When you’re starting out, I recommend using whatever light you have available, such as:

• Indirect light from a window
• A lamp
• A flashlight
• A candle

Don’t just create your setup, take one shot, and call it a day. Instead, try out different lighting effects! Use a curtain to block out some window light, then remove the curtain to let the light stream in. Shine a flashlight at your main subject, then try a second shot where the flashlight is positioned off to the side and shrouds your subjects in shadow. Make sense?

Note that, if you’re using lamps, flashlights, or candles, you will definitely need a tripod; indoor lighting won’t get you a fast-enough shutter speed for handheld shots. (This can be a relatively cheap model; as long as it’s positioned on a sturdy surface, it should be able to keep your camera steady.) When you’re ready to shoot, just mount your camera to the tripod, activate the two-second self-timer, and start taking images.

By the way, a fun technique that works great for still lifes is called light painting. Simply set up your camera to capture a long exposure (in the area of 10 to 30 seconds), press the shutter button, and paint light – from a flashlight or candle – around your subject. You’ll end up with some very cool effects, as you can see in the examples below:

A still life arrangement using several different types of lighting. From left: Natural light from nearby window, light painting with a flashlight, and lighting from a single soft box.

Once you get more serious, you can try lighting your still life arrangements with speedlights (though I recommend you modify any speedlight with a softbox to prevent hard shadows).

Whatever lighting you choose, make sure you spend plenty of time thinking about its position. Light that comes from the front will look very different than light that comes from behind your subject or off to the side, so you’ll need to carefully adjust your lights to get the effect you’re after. I’d recommend you start with sidelighting, as this often creates a beautiful, three-dimensional effect (and it’s what I used when capturing the three example photos featured above).

4. Try plenty of compositions

Learning to compose still life photos is often a struggle for beginners. This is understandable, as still life composition brings up a ton of questions, such as: Where should I place all my items? Should they overlap? Should they be close to the background? What camera angle should I use?

Fortunately, still life composition isn’t as hard as it might seem. I have two main recommendations, and they will take you far:

First, if you’ve not encountered them before, read about the rule of thirds and the rule of odds. These will offer a fantastic compositional starting point for beautiful still life shots, plus they’re really easy to use.

Second, just keep moving your items around.

This latter recommendation might seem a bit silly, but I promise: If you rearrange your objects enough, you’ll eventually hit on an arrangement that looks great. Don’t just settle for the first composition that you try – instead, test an arrangement, then evaluate it critically. Determine what you like and dislike about it, then make adjustments.

As you create different compositions, here are a few items to keep an eye on:

• Overly empty gaps (you generally want to keep the entire arrangement balanced!)
• Busy areas (you don’t want to confuse the viewer with too much activity)
• Movement between objects (aim to lead the eye from one object to the next)

Remember: A tiny tweak can make a huge difference. So if an arrangement doesn’t seem perfect, make a few changes. Chances are that you’ll soon hit upon a better setup!

And try photographing from different angles. Shoot from standing height, then raise your camera higher or take it down low. Walk to one side of the setup and capture a profile shot. You can even test out different lenses! Each experiment might turn out great or it might look bad – but you won’t know until you try.

5. Make sure you spend time editing your still life photography

Post-processing can make a huge difference to your still life photos, so I highly recommend you spend time editing your images in Lightroom, Photoshop, Capture One, or some other program.

Start out with basic adjustments, such as white balance, exposure, contrast, and saturation. Then, as you become more experienced, play around with more advanced options.

Consider doing HDR photography, where you take several images at different exposure levels then blend them together in Lightroom. Or use Photoshop to add a beautiful texture to your image for a painterly look:

Still life photography: final words

Still life is a beautiful, compelling, intimate genre of photography.

So experiment with lighting, composition, and editing. Have fun! Enjoy yourself!

You’re bound to end up with some stunning photos.

Now over to you:

What type of still life photos do you plan to take? Which of these tips are your favorites? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Still Life Photography: 5 Tips to Level Up Your Shots appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lea Hawkins.

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[Photography] dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Patterns in Nature

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Patterns in Nature appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Happy Weekend to you, friends! I’m running a little late this week, but couldn’t let you down with no challenge to partake in! Please excuse my brevity.

#dPSPatternsInNature is your challenge

The challenge this week comes from Carol over in the Facebook Group “Patterns in nature or Patterns in things” So you can opt for either, I opted for ‘Patterns in Nature” (Can anyone name where my photo was taken?)

Remember to add the tag #dPSWeeklyChallenge and #dPSPatternsInNature if you’re posting on social media, but otherwise, feel free to drop your photograph for the theme in the comments below!

Encourage each other, be kind.

Have a great week, see you next Saturday morning.

Submit your challenge theme ideas here.
Join our private Facebook group here.

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Patterns in Nature appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Sigma to Release First Lenses for Fujifilm X Series Cameras

The post Sigma to Release First Lenses for Fujifilm X Series Cameras appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

For years, Sigma, the third-party lens manufacturer behind the popular Art lens lineup, has focused its energy on Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Micro Four Thirds systems. But earlier this week, the company announced a trio of Fujifilm X Mount lenses, all modified from Sigma’s existing Contemporary lineup.

And the company promises that “the lineup will expand in the future…We will continue striving to meet the expectations of our customers with an expanded lineup of lenses and mounts for mirrorless cameras.” 

While Sigma hasn’t revealed any specific plans for future X Mount lenses, expect a handful of models to debut over the next year or two, including – we hope – a mix of Art, Sports, and Contemporary models, designed for superior optics, outstanding autofocusing, and walkaround photography, respectively.

As for Sigma’s upcoming X Mount releases: 

The company has not shared a launch timeline, but the three Contemporary lenses should ship in the coming weeks or months, all of which are currently available for preorder: 

• The Sigma 16mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary
• The Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary
• The Sigma 56mm f/1.4 DC DN Contemporary

The lenses, when mounted on Fujifilm’s APS-C cameras, offer 24mm, 45mm, and 84mm effective focal lengths – in other words, they create a perfect trio for photographers of all stripes, including casual, do-everything shooters, portrait photographers, event photographers, landscape photographers, and even street snappers.

At 16mm (24mm equivalent), you can capture beautiful wide-angle landscapes, environmental portraits, and scene-setting event shots. Switch to a 30mm lens (45mm equivalent), and you’ll be well equipped to shoot everyday family photos, full-body portraits, candids, and standard street images. Finally, you can mount the Sigma 56mm (84mm equivalent) for tighter landscape photos, beautiful telephoto portraits and headshots, and distant event photos. 

All three lenses should feature excellent optical performance, and thanks to the f/1.4 maximum apertures, you can work handheld in low light without much trouble. The wide apertures are also perfect for producing beautiful bokeh; you’ll get creamy, subject-enhancing backgrounds, especially from the 56mm lens, though you can expect decent background blur on the 30mm lens (and even the 16mm lens, depending on your distance from the subject).

A major benefit of third-party lenses is plenty of power in a lower-priced package. Happily, the three announced lenses are competitively priced, though the cost is approximately 20% higher than Canon, Nikon, Sony, and MFT mount models.

So if you’re a Fujifilm photographer looking for a well-priced, fast lens (or three!) for casual shooting, portrait photography, event photography, and more, I highly recommend you check out these new lenses from Sigma. And keep your eye out for future announcements as Sigma continues to produce high-quality lenses for Fujifilm cameras.

Now over to you:

Do you plan to purchase any of these new Sigma lenses for Fujifilm? Do you have any Sigma lenses you’d love to see as an X Mount model? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Sigma to Release First Lenses for Fujifilm X Series Cameras appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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[Photography] 9 Tips to Improve Your Food Photography Styling

The post 9 Tips to Improve Your Food Photography Styling appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Guest Contributor.

Want to capture mouthwatering food photos? Then you must master food styling, which is the art of making your food as attractive as possible.

I’ve been doing food photography for years, and over time, I’ve developed plenty of food styling techniques for incredible results. In this article, I share my 9 favorites, including:

• How much food to use in each photo
• Simple elements you can add to enhance the food
• An easy way to come up with plenty new food styling ideas

So if you’re ready to style food just like the pros, then let’s get started!

1. Use less food than you normally would

Beginner food stylists tend to pile plates high with food, but this is a mistake.

You see, while you may think that more food makes the dish appealing, an overcrowded plate can actually look far worse than a minimalist spread.

So instead of heaping spoonfuls and dollops and giant scoops of food onto your plates, take a step back. Then add a small amount of each food item to your arrangement. (This should be less food than the average person eats.)

Minimal food will create lots of space, which you can then spice up with cutlery, napkins, cups, and little garnishes (e.g., sprinkles of spices from the dish).

But note that this “overcrowding” rule also applies to props. So while it’s okay to add a few little items to your arrangement, don’t go overboard!

2. Add texture to plates and bowls

Most plates and bowls are smooth and shiny, but this causes problems.

For one, a shiny object is tough to photograph, especially if you’re using artificial light. Your light will create blown-out highlights on the bowl, which you’ll struggle to remove in post-processing.

Plus, shiny objects lack texture. Texture is great because it helps the viewer feel like the scene is real – like they could reach out and grab the food.

So what do you do?

I’m a big fan of adding paper to food arrangements. I don’t add anything elaborate or distracting, but I do find that lining plates with parchment or baking paper adds texture, plus it prevents unwanted highlights.

Make sure you’re very careful with the positioning of your paper. You don’t want edges to flip up and obscure the food, and you definitely don’t want the paper to look so wrinkly that the whole dish becomes unappetizing.

(Also, as I emphasized in the previous tip: Don’t overdo it! Too much paper is a problem. Include paper, but use it sparingly.)

3. Create background contrast

Many food photos feature white plates on a white background – and while this can be visually striking, I encourage you to go for contrast instead.

So instead of using white on white, put a white plate on a dark wooden background, or use darker plates on a white background.

Note that the food should also contrast with the background. If the food is eye-poppingly colorful, I like to add a simple white background. But if the food is relatively plain, a dark background – especially a dark background with texture – is often the better move.

That’s what I did for this shot, which features white plates and relatively bland colors:

Do you see how the dark, textured background helps make the food pop?

4. Allow food to spill over naturally

As a food stylist, your instinct might be to keep things nice and neat.

But while it’s certainly good to avoid unwanted mess, a little bit of deliberate mess can make a huge difference.

A bit of spilled sauce or a line of breadcrumbs really helps add movement and life to a food photo, whereas a clean shot often comes across as sterile and boring.

I’d especially encourage you to add mess in specific directions. Use the spills to create lines that direct the viewer from one plate to another.

Of course, make sure your spills look relatively controlled. And after you apply each bit of mess, go back through with a careful eye and make sure the mess looks good (rather than distracting).

5. Choose (simple) crockery and tableware

If you want to give your food photos a complete feel, it’s a good idea to add silverware, serving dishes, and other little props that’ll enhance the composition and tell the story.

However, you must select your items carefully. While highly decorative china and napery are beautiful on their own, they can detract from the visual impact of the food. And while flashy, ornate silverware might seem attractive, it can draw the eye away from the main subject.

So keep your props simple. Plain items allow the food to be the star of your shot, so go for simple colors and designs. When in doubt, plain white or plain black both work great!

6. Emphasize the natural beauty of the food

Many beginner food stylists struggle to start a food composition. They look at a blank tabletop and feel overwhelmed by the possibilities.

So here’s what I recommend:

Before you lay down a single item, think about what it is that makes a particular dish so delicious.

Then create the entire arrangement in service of that idea.

For example, if you’re photographing a delicious brownie with a soft chocolate center, consider breaking up the brownie to reveal the gooey inside. Then put the brownie on a white plate in the center of the arrangement, and use various props – such as a fork and a napkin – to direct the viewer toward the brownie.

Of course, every food item can be approached from different directions, and there’s no real right or wrong here. What’s key is that you identify the story you want to tell – and that you style the food so that the story is clearly conveyed.

7. Style some work-in-progress shots

As a stylist, it’s easy to focus on creating that final, plated food shot.

But in truth, there are plenty of stunning opportunities along the way!

So try to style a few shots as the food is cooked. For instance, you can create a composition using raw ingredients (and lots of mess!). You might also create a composition that shows the food cooling after coming out of the oven.

And feel free to get creative. You don’t have to style the food on a standard table; instead, you can work with the food on the stovetop or even in the oven. Just remember to apply the techniques I’ve shared throughout this article, and no matter where you’re working, you’ll get great results.

8. Always be on the lookout for ideas

If you do enough food photography styling, you’ll start to use the same type of arrangement again and again.

And while there’s nothing wrong with repeating solid arrangements, it’s also good to break out of your comfort zone and come up with fresh food photo ideas.

A great way to generate styling ideas is by looking through cookbooks and food magazines. Simply flick through and take note of what looks appealing and what doesn’t. Don’t copy directly, of course, but do keep a little list of ideas that you can try down the line. (It can also be fun to find an arrangement you like, then adjust it for a fresh look.)

If you prefer to look at food photos online, you can always create a Pinterest board dedicated to your favorite food styling. Every time you find some well-styled food, just add it to the board – that way, the next time you’re in need of new ideas, you can open the board and generate some instant inspiration.

9. Style the food after it’s been served

Here’s your final food stylist trick:

Don’t just arrange uneaten food. After you’ve created some work-in-progress compositions and a final, plated shot, serve a slice of the food. (You can eat this if you want!)

And then create another arrangement that highlights the missing or served food. In my experience, a half-finished plate is often more appetizing than the original whole!

Depending on the type of food you’re shooting, you may need to work fast. But that’s all part of the fun, and even if you fail to get a great “served” shot, there’s always next time.

Food photography styling tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

Nine easy ways to take your food styling to the next level.

So the next time you’re doing a food photography photoshoot, make sure to keep these techniques in mind!

Now over to you:

Which of these food stylist tips do you like best? Which do you plan to use in your photography? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

About the author: Jules Clancy is a qualified food scientist and self-taught food photographer. She blogs about her commitment to cooking recipes with no more than five ingredients over at Stonesoup.

Table of contents

Food Photography

• GENERAL
  • The Ultimate Guide to Food Photography
  • Are You Making These Five Food Photography Mistakes?
  • 8 Tips for Food Photography Newbies
  • How I Shot It: Food Photography
• PREPARATION
  • How to Create a Budget Tabletop Photography Setup for Shooting Food and Products
  • DIY Food Photography Props on a Budget
  • How to Make Easy and Affordable DIY Food Photography Backdrops
  • Household Items to Bring to Your Next Food Photography Shoot
• LIGHTING
  • Five Essentials of Doing Dark Food Photography
  • How to Achieve Dark and Dramatic Food Portraits
  • One Light Set-Up For Food Photography
  • Restaurant Menu Food Photography Using Natural Light
  • Food Photography – When to Use Natural Light (and When Not To)
  • Food Photography – How to Shoot A Beverage With Only Two Lights
• COMPOSITION
  • 10 Tips to Improve Your Food Photography Styling

    • 1. Use less food than you normally would
    • 2. Add texture to plates and bowls
    • 3. Create background contrast
    • 4. Allow food to spill over naturally
    • 5. Choose (simple) crockery and tableware
    • 6. Emphasize the natural beauty of the food
    • 7. Style some work-in-progress shots
    • 8. Always be on the lookout for ideas
    • 9. Style the food after it’s been served
    • Food photography styling tips: final words
    • 1. Use less food than you normally would
    • 2. Add texture to plates and bowls
    • 3. Create background contrast
    • 4. Allow food to spill over naturally
    • 5. Choose (simple) crockery and tableware
    • 6. Emphasize the natural beauty of the food
    • 7. Style some work-in-progress shots
    • 8. Always be on the lookout for ideas
    • 9. Style the food after it’s been served
    • Food photography styling tips: final words
  • The Secret to Finding the Hero Angle in Food Photography
  • 11 Great Camera Angles for Food Photography
  • Using Focus Creatively with Food Photography
• GEAR
  • The Best Camera Gear for Food and Still Life Photography
  • A Basic Food Photography Kit
  • 10 Great Gifts for Food Photographers Under $50
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 7 Tips for Better Commercial Food Photography
  • How to Take Cool Food Photos in Your Refrigerator
  • 10 Tips For Food Photography When Travelling
  • How to Take Great Food Photos this Holiday Season
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • How to Create an Exploding Sandwich Food Photo
• POST-PROCESSING
  • How to Edit Food Photography Images Using Lightroom
  • How to Change a Background in Photoshop for Still Life or Food Photography
  • How to Make Food Photos Look Tastier with Luminar
• INSPIRATION
  • Collection of Food Photography to Make you Hungry

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