[Photography] The Lightroom Tone Curve: A Hands-On Guide

The post The Lightroom Tone Curve: A Hands-On Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

What is the Lightroom Tone Curve? How does it work? And how can you use it to edit your photos?

The Tone Curve is one of Lightroom’s most powerful tools, but if you’ve never used it before, it can get pretty confusing; that’s where this article comes in handy.

Below, I explain everything you need to know about the Tone Curve, including:

• A simple explanation of the Tone Curve’s function
• A clear, concise guide to operating the Curve’s graph and sliders
• How you can adjust the Curve for amazing results when editing

Sound good? Then let’s dive right in!

What is the Tone Curve in Lightroom?

The Lightroom Tone Curve is a graph-based tool that lets you adjust the tones and colors of precise portions of an image. Most photographers use it to add extra contrast, though you can always do the opposite and create an interesting low-contrast effect.

Now, the Tone Curve features a graph, which corresponds to the tones in your image file. Graph peaks along the left side correspond to shadows, graph peaks along the right side correspond to highlights, and graph peaks in the middle correspond to midtones. (This is just like the Lightroom histogram.)

The Tone Curve also features a line (or curve), which stretches from the bottom-left corner to the top-right corner. This line corresponds to tones in the image file, too – the left part of the line corresponds to the shadows and the right part of the line corresponds to the highlights – except it’s adjustable. By shifting the line upward, you brighten the corresponding tones. And by shifting the line downward, you darken the corresponding tones.

Note that you can adjust portions of the line upward while pushing other portions of the line downward; the entire line does not need to be adjusted in the same direction. In fact, this is what gives the Tone Curve its power: You can brighten the shadows while darkening the highlights, darken the midtones while brightening the highlights, and so on.

How to use the Lightroom Tone Curve: Step by step

The Tone Curve might seem complex, but it’s actually pretty simple. In this section, I offer clear instructions for modifying an image with the Tone Curve:

Step 1: Find the Tone Curve panel

To get started with Tone Curve editing, enter the Lightroom Develop module.

On the right-hand side, scroll through your tools until you find the Tone Curve panel; make sure the panel is expanded and you can see the Tone Curve graph:

Step 2: Adjust the Tone Curve using the sliders

As I explained above, the Tone Curve line corresponds to image tones – so by adjusting the line, you can tweak the tones in your file.

Now, you can adjust the Tone Curve in two ways:

• You can target precise regions of your image using sliders (Parametric Curve)
• You can add points to the curve and move them up and down (Point Curve)

When just starting out, I’d recommend working with the slider-based Parametric Curve. It’s simple to use, and it’s pretty intuitive, too.

Just make sure the Parametric Curve option is selected:

Then drag on the sliders to adjust the image. Highlights and Lights correspond to the brighter portions of the shot, while Shadows and Darks correspond to the darker portions of the shot. To see the affected regions, you can always hover your cursor over the relevant slider:

As you adjust the sliders, you’ll see your image change, and you’ll see the Tone Curve change, too. Boosting the Lights will brighten the lighter portions of the image and cause the right-hand portion of the line to move upward:

And if you then drop the Shadows slider, the darker portions of the image will darken (and the left-hand portion of the line will drop):

Note that you can also click and drag the Parametric Curve directly. This is equivalent to adjusting the sliders (and as you drag the Curve, the corresponding sliders will also adjust):

Step 3: Adjust the Tone Curve by plotting points

Remember how I said you can use the Tone Curve in two different ways? Well, the second type of Tone Curve adjustment – the Point Curve – offers much greater power and flexibility.

First, make sure the Point Curve icon is selected:

Then click on the graph line. This will create a point, which you can nudge up and down with the arrow keys or drag up and down with your cursor:

You can add as many points as you want; this allows you to create all sorts of interesting Curves:

Of course, most adjustments won’t actually look good and it’s easy to get weird results, but it can certainly be fun to experiment!

Step 4: Target specific tones with the Tone Curve selector

The Tone Curve selector lets you identify specific tones in your image for adjustment, and you can use it with either the Parametric Curve or the Point Curve.

Click on the selector icon:

Then click on the relevant portion of your image. Drag upward or downward to lighten or darken the corresponding tones.

This can be a great way to add extra precision to your workflow, plus it offers plenty of hands-on fun!

Step 5: Apply color adjustments with the Tone Curve

Until now, I’ve focused on using the Tone Curve to adjust image tones – that is, the brightness values of a file.

But you can also adjust colors with the Tone Curve. This works much the same way as the Point Curve method I shared above, but instead of changing image tones, you change the image colors.

To make Tone Curve color adjustments, simply click on the red, green, or blue option above the graph:

Then add points to the line, drag it up and down, and see what happens! With the Red Curve, for instance, you can drag the line upward to add more red to select parts of the image – and you can drag the line downward to add more cyan.

With the Green Curve, you can drag the line upward to add more green or drag the line downward to add more magenta.

And with the Blue Curve, you can drag the line upward to add more blue or drag the line downward to add more yellow.

Note that the adjustments will be applied to the tonal areas of the image corresponding to the Tone Curve. If you drag the Red Curve up from the middle, it’ll redden the image midtones while leaving the highlights and shadows relatively untouched. And if you drop the right-hand portion of the Blue Curve, it’ll make the highlights yellow but leave the midtones and shadows alone. Make sense?

How to use the Lightroom Tone Curve: adjustment recommendations

At this point, you know how to work with the Tone Curve, but you may be wondering: How do I use the Tone Curve to edit my photos? Do I boost the highlights? Drop the shadows? Add a red tint? Add blue?

While the specifics will depend on your personal preferences and editing style, here are a few recommendations:

• Adding contrast can benefit most images; try creating a curve with a slight “S” shape to brighten the highlights and darken the shadows
• For an interesting fade effect, drop the shadows but pull up on the left-hand corner of the curve; this will cause the shadows to soften

Color adjustments are a bit trickier. By selectively adding colors to your image, you can enhance image cohesiveness and even create different moods, but this will depend on the existing colors in the frame. I do recommend that you add different colors to different tonal regions of the image (you can get great results with complementary color pairs!). To get started, try adding blue into the shadows and yellow into the highlights or teal into the shadows and orange into the highlights.

At the end of the day, however, it’s all about experimentation. So spend some time playing around with the different Tone Curve options. See what you can achieve!

How to create Tone Curve presets

If you like working with the Tone Curve and use it frequently, you may want to consider creating presets. That way, you can quickly apply your preferred Tone Curve adjustments to each new image.

While you can certainly create regular presets that include Tone Curve adjustments, Lightroom actually offers a way to make presets that only affect the Tone Curve. These can be accessed from the Tone Curve panel:

Just make an adjustment to the Tone Curve, then – when you create an effect you like – click on the dropdown box, select Save, and name your preset!

The next time you need it, you can simply select the dropdown menu once more, click the preset, and watch as your image is transformed.

The Lightroom Tone Curve: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about the power of the Tone Curve – and you know how to use it to enhance your photos.

So open up Lightroom. Practice with the Tone Curve. And see what you can create!

Now over to you:

How do you plan to use the Tone Curve to enhance your photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post The Lightroom Tone Curve: A Hands-On Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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[Photography] 5 Tips for Eye-Catching Smartphone Food Photography

The post 5 Tips for Eye-Catching Smartphone Food Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

Capturing beautiful smartphone food photos can be hard – unless you have the right guidance, that is!

While it’s pretty easy to pull out your iPhone and snap a few shots of your dinner, if you want beautiful food photos – the kind that’ll make viewers stop and stare – then you need to master your camera settings, lighting, composition, and much more.

I’ve been doing smartphone food photography for a long time, and in this article, I share my best five tips for eye-catching smartphone shots (with a special focus on lighting and composition).

So if you’re ready to level up your images, then let’s dive right in, starting with my first tip:

1. Use natural lighting whenever possible

When it comes to food photography, lighting is everything. Knowing how to use the light is what separates the amateurs from the pros.

Now, most smartphone food photos are taken in restaurants, and they tend to look terrible for one major reason:

Restaurants generally use fluorescent lighting, which is hard and unflattering. (It’s also often tinged with a green or yellow color cast.)

Fortunately, this is easy to fix:

Instead of relying on artificial light, position your food near a window. And snap a few shots using its soft, flattering light.

Just be sure the sun isn’t too bright; you don’t want it to cast harsh shadows that are unflattering to your dish. If you are sitting near a too-bright window, you can place a small scrim between the window and the food, or you can simply move the food until it’s out of the direct sunlight.

By the way, once you’re positioned near a window, notice the precise direction of the light. The best lighting generally comes from the side or behind the food, so reposition your smartphone until you get the perfect angle.

This next shot features beautiful sidelight, which came in from the back left:

2. Choose the right angle

When you take smartphone food photos, does your plate ever look like it’s sliding off the table? Does your food ever look too big or too small?

That’s because most smartphone cameras use wide-angle lenses – and when you’re shooting wide-angle, the wrong camera angle will make your food look distorted.

In other words, you can’t just pick your angle based on convenience. Instead, to achieve the most natural results, you need to carefully choose an angle, one that will help prevent perspective distortion.

My recommendation? Get down low over the table and shoot your scene at 90 degrees. This will create a beautiful image with lots of depth and minimal visible distortion.

Alternatively, you can shoot from directly over the food, looking down; this will reduce depth for a cool graphic effect:

A 90-degree approach also lets you show more food in the frame, which is great for shooting full table spreads. Note, however, that 90 degrees is not a great angle for tall food, like burgers or stacks of pancakes. Shoot those subjects from low down over the table so you can show off their layers!

Unfortunately, a 3/4 angle – where you shoot from around 45 degrees above the food – rarely works. It’s an easy way to create distortion issues, so I recommend you avoid it whenever possible. (If you really want to proceed with a 45-degree angle, try taking a step back and switching over to your smartphone camera’s telephoto lens.)

3. Use minimalistic compositions

Complex tablescapes are fun and look appealing, but they’re often difficult to photograph.

It can take a lot of careful arrangement to make a pleasing composition, and by the time you get it right, the food may no longer look appetizing.

So instead of relying on wide, sophisticated compositions, go minimalist. In other words, keep it simple.

Feature a couple of food items and a prop or two (like a utensil or a piece of linen). Spread them out across the table so the eye is drawn around the frame.

This minimalist approach usually works well, especially if you’re a beginner. It’ll keep the focus on specific items of food, and it’ll help you create graphic compositions like this one:

Pro tip: If you have the time, experiment with different background colors. Bring fabric or poster board that complements the food and plates, then have fun trying out different combinations of food items and props.

4. Pay attention to your food composition

If you spend time looking at smartphone food photos on Instagram, you’ll start to notice a pattern:

Most of the shots tend to look…messy. Cluttered. Overwhelming. For instance, the background might feature distracting shapes, or you might notice a half-dozen props spread around the image.

But the best food photos boast carefully ordered backgrounds, carefully positioned food items, and carefully positioned props.

In other words, they use good composition.

Now, food photography composition is a complex topic, one that can take weeks, months, or years to master.

But there are a few simple compositional guidelines that you can use to arrange your food for great results – and they take very little time to learn.

First, try to include an empty area or two where the eye can rest for a brief moment as it moves through the image. (This is known as negative space.)

You see, if every part of the image is covered with ingredients or props, it’ll confuse the viewer and create claustrophobia. But negative space will provide a bit of breathing room and will help the viewer focus on the main subject.

So resist the urge to fill every part of your image, and instead add in areas of pure background, like the shadowy sections behind this cake:

You should also try to use the rule of thirds, a compositional guideline that divides the image into thirds, using two horizontal and two vertical lines:

According to the rule of thirds, you should position important scene elements – such as food items or props – along these gridlines or along the gridline intersection points.

Finally, be sure to include a clear focal point in your images. A focal point should be eye-catching; really, it should be the area of the shot that you want your viewer to notice most. Images without focal points tend to feel aimless, so do what you can to include a focal point (or two).

5. Tell a story

Everyone loves a good story.

And if you can give your viewer a story – one that takes place in the frame or just outside of it – your shots will be far more compelling.

For example, you can tell the story of the food’s creation by including various ingredients throughout the composition, or by including the chef’s hands in the shot.

Alternatively, you might include a partially eaten element (such as a cookie with a missing bite) to tell the story of the food’s consumption.

Or you might include the hands of the server to show how the food actually made it to your table.

The human touch has become wildly popular in food photography; such a lifestyle element creates a sense of atmosphere and relatability, which is why it has spilled over from Instagram into the world of commercial food photography.

Smartphone food photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel ready to capture some beautiful smartphone food photos of your very own!

Focus on lighting. Think about composition. And tell a story.

With a little effort, you’ll be capturing great food photos in no time at all!

Now over to you:

Which of these smartphone food photography tips is your favorite? Which do you plan to incorporate into your own photos? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Smartphone Photography

• GENERAL
  • How to Take Great Photos with Your iPhone
  • Tips and Resources for Doing Android Phone Photography
  • 7 Fun Photography Tricks to Try on Your Smartphone
  • How Using Your Smartphone Camera Can Help Improve Your Photography
  • 8 DIY Smartphone Photography Projects to Try
• PREPARATION
  • 9 of the Best Apps to Help You Do Awesome Mobile Phone Photography
  • Smugmugu2019s Camera Awesome App For iPhones [REVIEW]
• SETTINGS
  • How to Use DNG Files on Your iPhone With Lightroom Mobile, RAW or ProCam 4
• GEAR
  • iPhone 4s Cameras Are Good For Some Subjects
  • Cell Phone Versus DSLR – Can you tell which is which?
  • A Photography Shootout: the iPhone 11 Pro vs the Canon 5D Mark IV
  • Pros and Cons of Upgrading from a Phone to a Real Camera
  • Equipment List for Making Better Smartphone Videos
  • 8 of the Best Smartphone Camera Accessories
  • Moment Smartphone Lens Review for Photography and Videography
  • Field Test: The Hasselblad True Zoom Camera and Moto Z Smartphone
  • Review: Struman Lenses for Mobile Phones
  • Review: Struman Optics Cinematic Lenses for Smartphones
  • The iPhone 11 Pro Features a New Triple Lens and Night Mode
  • New Smartphone Includes a 108-Megapixel Camera and Wraparound Display
  • Profoto Launches Two Amazing Lights for Smartphone Photographers
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • How to Get Stunning Macro Photos with Your Mobile Phone
  • How to Use a Cell Phone for Dramatic Night Photography
  • 6 Quick Tips for Low Light Smartphone Photography
  • Smartphone Food Photography For Social Media

    • 1. Use natural lighting whenever possible
    • 2. Choose the right angle
    • 3. Use minimalistic compositions
    • 4. Pay attention to your food composition
    • 5. Tell a story
    • Smartphone food photography: final words
    • 1. Use natural lighting whenever possible
    • 2. Choose the right angle
    • 3. Use minimalistic compositions
    • 4. Pay attention to your food composition
    • 5. Tell a story
    • Smartphone food photography: final words
• POST-PROCESSING
  • An Overview of 8 Adobe Creative Cloud Mobile Apps
  • 10 Key Tools for Editing Portraits Using Adobe Lightroom Mobile
  • Setting up Lightroom Mobile for First Time Users
  • Become a Better Photo Editor with the New Lightroom Mobile ‘Discover’ Feature
  • Photosmith – the iPad mobile companion for Adobe Lightroom (Win a Copy)
  • How to Use a Split Tone Style in Lightroom Mobile for a Consistent Instagram Feed
  • 6 Great and Free Photo Editing Apps on the OnePlus Phone and Android
  • Tilt-Shift Apps for the iPhone
  • How to Sync Your Develop Presets to Lightroom Mobile
  • 5 Reasons to Get Photoshop Express on Your Phone
• BUSINESS
  • Instagr.am – iPhone Photo Sharing Application [Review]
• INSPIRATION
  • 10 of the Best iPhone Photographers [by Photo Style and Genre]
  • 10 Cameraphone Photographs that Rock

The post 5 Tips for Eye-Catching Smartphone Food Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darina Kopcok.

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[Photography] Travel Photography Lighting: 4 Essential Tips

The post Travel Photography Lighting: 4 Essential Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Karthika Gupta.

Want to capture stunning travel photos? Then you must learn to master lighting.

You see, while camera gear, composition, and post-processing are all essential parts of travel photography, lighting is often the make-or-break factor. If you get the lighting right, your images will look eye-catching and even dramatic – but if you get the lighting wrong, then your images will turn out boring, flat, and otherwise unpleasant.

(I’m not talking about artificial lighting. I like to use natural light in my travel photos, and I very rarely travel with an external flash because of the extra weight. I’m also not a huge fan of the flashed look.)

Therefore, in this article, I share four fundamental tips for travel photography lighting, including:

• The best times of day to shoot travel photos
• How to think about the weather and its effect on lighting
• How to adjust your position in relation to the light for amazing results

So if you’re ready to become a travel lighting master, then let’s dive right in!

1. Start by shooting at the right time of day

Natural light changes constantly.

Depending on the time of day, you’ll get very different types of lighting – and very different results. That’s why you should always pay attention to the time when planning your travel photography outings.

You see, while there is no best time of day for travel photography, different types of lighting work well for different scenes, so you should always tailor your lighting to your subject (or vice versa).

Specifically:

• If you want to create beautiful silhouettes or soft, golden-lit travel photos, schedule your outing during the golden hours (the hour or two after sunrise and the hour or two before sunset). Golden-hour lighting is great for dramatic architectural photography, it’s great for landscapes, and it’s great for portraits, too.
• If you want to highlight color and detail, schedule your outing for a heavily overcast day. Obviously, it’s not always possible to predict this in advance, but do the best you can, and don’t be afraid to change your plans as required. Overcast light is wonderfully diffused, and it’ll allow you to capture intimate portraits, architectural details, and landscapes that focus on the subject (not the sky!).
• If you want to create street-style shots, then plan to shoot when the sun is bright and high overhead. Look for interesting shadows, embrace the high-contrast effect, and experiment constantly.
• If you want to create magical, ethereal landscape or cityscape photos, plan your photoshoot for just after the sun sets. This time is known as the blue hour, and it’ll give you stunning skies as well as enough light for some foreground detail.

Bottom line: When planning a travel photography photoshoot, check the weather. Then, just before you leave, check it again. And always have a backup plan in place, just in case!

2. Carefully analyze the location when you arrive

Once you arrive on location, before you take out your camera, spend some time looking around and evaluating the light.

In particular, pay attention to the lighting quality and the lighting direction.

The lighting quality primarily depends on the time of day and weather factors discussed above, but these can change rapidly, so it always pays to take one more look before you shoot. Also, if you’re shooting indoors, the light may be diffused or blocked by walls and windows, so it’s a good idea to really look at the light and see how it falls.

The lighting direction is determined by the position of the sun (if you’re outside) or the position of the windows (if you’re inside). And by working deliberately with different lighting directions, you can radically improve your photos.

Front light, for instance, is great for illuminating subjects evenly. It’ll get you highly detailed photos, but it tends to lack drama. (A lack of drama isn’t necessarily a bad thing; it’s just an effect you should be aware of.)

Backlight, on the other hand, is full of drama. It creates silhouettes, it creates lens flare, and it creates rim effects that look incredibly artistic. On the other hand, backlight isn’t great if you want to create detailed and/or documentary images.

Finally, sidelight is a great way to produce dramatic-yet-detailed images. Because sidelight falls on the subject from an oblique angle, you get beautiful shadows, plenty of texture, and a well-lit subject. It’s a great way to create captivating landscape and architectural images, especially when the sun is low in the sky.

Of course, the lighting direction is often fixed – you can’t ask landscape or architectural subjects to move, after all! – but by selecting subjects based on the light, you can maximize the quality of your shots.

3. Select gear based on the lighting situation

Before you head out on a travel photoshoot, make sure that you bring the right gear for the job.

If you plan to be shooting in bright, midday light, you can often take only your standard camera and lens. You won’t need a travel tripod, you won’t need a special lens, and you won’t need a remote shutter release.

If the sky is overcast or you’re working indoors, I’d recommend bringing a good travel tripod, especially if you plan to shoot landscape or architectural scenes. You’ll want to narrow your aperture for sufficient depth of field, but that will require a slow shutter speed – and if you don’t have a tripod, you’ll end up creating blurry shots.

If you’re shooting around sunrise or sunset, a tripod will again come in handy. The light will be too dim to allow for a deep depth of field at handholdable shutter speeds (plus you can use the tripod to create beautiful long-exposure images). A remote shutter release is a good idea, too; it’ll let you fire the shutter without generating camera shake.

And if you’re shooting after dark, a tripod and a remote shutter release are absolutely essential. The exception is if you plan to do travel street shots – and if you do, I’d recommend using your largest-aperture lens and a camera with impressive high-ISO capabilities.

By the way, if you plan to do nighttime astrophotography, a wide-aperture lens and a high-ISO camera are also important. You’ll need to shoot at f/2.8 or wider to prevent movement in the stars, plus you’ll often need to crank your ISO up to 1600 and beyond.

4. Don’t be afraid to photograph in bad weather

I’ve talked all about the value of golden-hour lighting, blue-hour lighting, and bright sunny days…

…but sometimes you’ll get stuck with bad weather, and you’ll wonder whether it’s worth going out at all.

You want to know what I think? Bad-weather days are amazing for travel photography.

You see, while bad-weather lighting is often dim, it’s also very soft, which helps bring out colors and emphasize details.

Plus, bad weather can also produce dramatic lighting, especially when the sun breaks through the clouds before, after, or during a rainstorm.

And rain, snow, or sleet can add that extra bit of oomph that’ll make for award-winning shots.

Of course, you will need to protect your gear – I’d recommend carrying a waterproof rain cover at all times – and you’ll need to keep yourself safe, too. But if you’re adequately prepared, bad-weather photography can be incredible!

Travel photography lighting: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about lighting in travel photos – and you’re ready to head out and capture some beautiful images!

So think about the weather. Think about the time of day. Think about the light direction.

And enjoy your travel adventures!

Now over to you:

Do you have a favorite type of light for travel photography? How do you plan to adjust your travel photoshoots in the future? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Travel Photography

• GENERAL
  • 8 Ideas of What To Do With Your Vacation Photos
  • What Skills do You Need to be a Travel Photographer?
  • How to Capture the Essence of a Place – Travel Photography Tips
  • 7 Tips to Make Travel Photography Interesting Again
  • Avoid These 5 Major Mistakes Made By Travel Photographers
  • Travel Photography – Do You Ask Permission Before, After Or Not At All?
  • Travel Photographers Workflow – At Home and on the Road
  • The Photo Critique: Travel Photo Edition
  • 6 Reasons Why Your Travel Photos Don’t Look Like the Ones in Magazines
  • The Fine Line Between Travel Photography and Having a family Vacation
  • 10 Ways to Improve your Vacation Photos
  • What is Your Biggest Travel Photography Challenge?
  • 7 Travel Photography Hacks to Get You Going Places
• PREPARATION
  • How to Use a Travel Photography Shot List to Come Home with Better Photos
  • Why You Need To Be A Guerrilla Travel Photographer – And How To Become One
  • How to Get the Most Out of a Travel Photography Location
  • Travel Photography, Backpacking and Packing Light
  • 6 of the Best Smartphone Apps for Travel and Landscape Photography
  • How To Keep Camera Gear Safe While Traveling
  • 5 Ways to Find Great Locations for Travel Photography
  • 15 Tips for Protecting Your Images While Traveling
  • Safety Tips for Travel Photographers (Particularly Women)
• LIGHTING
  • Off Camera Flash for Your Travel Photography
  • How to Use Natural Light in Travel Photography

    • 1. Use natural lighting whenever possible
    • 2. Choose the right angle
    • 3. Use minimalistic compositions
    • 4. Pay attention to your food composition
    • 5. Tell a story
    • Smartphone food photography: final words
    • 1. Use natural lighting whenever possible
    • 2. Choose the right angle
    • 3. Use minimalistic compositions
    • 4. Pay attention to your food composition
    • 5. Tell a story
    • Smartphone food photography: final words
    • 1. Start by shooting at the right time of day
    • 2. Carefully analyze the location when you arrive
    • 3. Select gear based on the lighting situation
    • 4. Don’t be afraid to photograph in bad weather
    • Travel photography lighting: final words
    • 1. Start by shooting at the right time of day
    • 2. Carefully analyze the location when you arrive
    • 3. Select gear based on the lighting situation
    • 4. Don’t be afraid to photograph in bad weather
    • Travel photography lighting: final words
• COMPOSITION
  • Photo Composition Tips from Bob Holmes – Composition in Travel Photos
  • The Importance of People in your Travel Photos
  • Create More Unique Travel Photos by Adding a Model
• GEAR
  • 5 Lessons Learned Switching from DSLR to Mirrorless for Travel Photography
  • How To Keep Your Batteries Charged While Traveling – Remote Location Edition
  • 5 Tips For Travel With Only One Lens
  • 5 Lessons Learned While Using a Kit Lens for Travel Photography
  • 7 Tips for Using a Tripod in Landscape and Travel Photography
  • The Best Fujifilm X-Series Kits for Travel Photography
  • The First 10 Things You Need to Buy After Your Camera for Travel Photography
  • Tiniest Interchangable Lens Micro Four Thirds Cameras for Travel with Amazing Quality
  • The Only Three Lenses You Need for Travel Photography
  • Must Have Gear for Travel Photography Newbies
  • Why Olympus Mirrorless Cameras are Top Notch for Travel Photography
  • The Best Travel Photography Lenses: Our Top 12 Picks
  • 5 Camera Bags That Every Travel Photographer Needs At Some Point
  • A Travel Tripod that can Also Act as a Light Stand
  • The iPad as a Photographer’s Travel Helper [a Review]
  • 7 Non-Photography Items Which No Travel Photographer Should Leave Home Without
  • 7 Reasons Why a Tripod is a Travel Photographer’s Best Friend
  • Travel Photography Equipment – What To Pack?
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 10 Ways to Improve Your Travel Photography Portraits
  • How to Plan and Take Killer Sunset Photos on Your Next Vacation
  • Tips for Photographing Local Parks
  • How to Find the Best Kinds of People to Photograph While Traveling
  • 4 Ways To Make Better Street Portraits While Traveling
  • How to Photograph People When Traveling
  • How To Take More Creative Environmental Travel Portraits
  • Photographing Signs – Travel Photography Tip
  • Tips for Creating Better Documentary Travel Photos
  • 6 Tips for How to be a Culturally Sensitive Travel Photographer
  • Travel Photography Subjects: Old People
  • How to Put the Fine Art into Travel Photography
  • Travel Photography without the Travel – Going Local
  • How to Tell Better Visual Stories with Travel Photography
  • Create a Theme to Step Up Your Travel Photography
  • Travel Photography ~ Think Outside The Postcard When Photographing Famous Landmarks
  • Photographing Festivals and Events – Tips for Travel Photographers
  • Video: Travel Photography Tips – Shoot with a Purpose
  • 7 Reasons Why You Should Art Direct Your Travel Photography
  • Buy Less Gear: Travel and Experience More
  • Editorial Travel Photography – Telling the Story of a Location
  • Travel Photography Subjects: Religion
  • Travel Photography Subjects: Views
  • Travel Photography Tips – Photographing the Coast
  • Taking Photos in Busy Tourist Destinations with no People in the Shot
• POST-PROCESSING
  • How to Backup and Manage Your Photos When Traveling Without a Computer
  • Tips for Creating a Killer Vacation Photo Book
  • Photo Editing Workflow for Travel Photography
• BUSINESS
  • How to Build a Travel Photography Portfolio
  • How to Become a Professional Travel Photographer – Two Paths
  • 11 Tips for Shooting Travel Stock Photography to Make Money
  • How to Sell a Travel Story to a Magazine and Help Fund Your Travels
  • 7 Realities That Hit Once You Become a Professional Travel Photographer
  • Is a Career in Travel Photography Right for You?
• INSPIRATION
  • Travel Inspiration: Bali
  • Canadian Travelogue – Introduction
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: South Africa
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Thailand
  • Canadian Travelogue – Newfoundland – Gros Morne National Park
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: India
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Japan
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Kenya
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Morocco
  • Travel Photography Inspiration Project: Vietnam
  • An Interview With World Traveler Gary Arndt
  • Interview: Oded Wagenstein – Author of Snapn Travel Guide and dPS Writer

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