[Photography] Weekly Photography Challenge – Song

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Song appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Well, ‘Photos based on a song or album cover’ was what Susan suggested, So you can go with either.

Share your photograph in the comments section under this post, or on our Facebook group.

How will you depict ‘Photos based on a song or album cover’ Maybe setup a scene to mimic the cover of your favourite album, maybe it could be one of those mildly amusing self portraits where you hold the album cover in front of your face (Many super cheap album covers to be had in op shops!) you’ll need to get creative for this one, which is the aim of these photography challenges… Let’s see what you’ve got!

I always thought this should be an album cover. A photo of mine of Public Enemy – Just an example, you could do a self portrait JUST like this if you have a big enough clock!

Remember! Only one photograph for these challenges, and you are best to take it specifically for the challenge, sharpen those skills!

The post Weekly Photography Challenge – Song appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Skylum to Add Focus Stacking Extension to Luminar Neo

The post Skylum to Add Focus Stacking Extension to Luminar Neo appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Skylum has unveiled the fifth extension for its flagship editing program, Luminar Neo: 

Focus Stacking, which will allow photographers to blend multiple photos for extreme depth of field effects.

Luminar Neo debuted back in February 2022; like Luminar AI before it, the program combined conventional processing tools and AI technology to give photographers of all stripes – including beginners – unprecedented editing power.

More recently, Skylum announced its intentions to provide a series of paid updates, called “extensions,” that offer additional functionality for photo editors. Two Luminar extensions are already available, and Skylum has promised to launch an additional five extensions before the year is out. 

The company’s first extension, HDR Merge, allows photographers to blend several files for maximum tonal detail. The second extension, Noiseless AI, boasts impressive noise-reduction capabilities, while the third and fourth extensions will offer background removal and image upscaling – handy for content creators, heavy croppers, and photographers seeking to make large prints.

But Skylum’s newly announced fifth extension, Focus Stacking, promises to change the game for macro, product, still life, and even landscape photographers. Shooters can capture several images of a subject, then blend the shots together in Luminar Neo for front-to-back sharpness. Macro, product, and still life photographers rely on focus-stacking techniques to keep entire subjects in focus at high magnifications; landscape photographers use stacking to ensure close foreground elements (e.g., rushing water) and distant background elements (e.g., mountains) remain equally sharp.

Stacking techniques are far from new, and dedicated focus-stacking software currently exists. Yet very few programs boast digital asset management, RAW editing capabilities, and stacking technology. Adobe Lightroom Classic, for instance, lacks stacking capabilities (to successfully stack an image using Adobe CC products, you must open the original files in Photoshop, which offers no DAM and RAW editing functionality).

In other words, once Skylum’s stacking extension is implemented, photographers will be able to organize, edit, and focus stack images – without ever leaving the Neo environment. It’s an exciting prospect, especially for current Luminar users who rely on other software to handle focus-stacking processes.

So when will the Focus Stacking extension become available, and how much will it cost? 

According to Skylum, the update is “coming in November,” though an exact date has not been set. Like the Noiseless AI extension, Focus Stacking won’t be offered as an individual add-on. Instead, you’ll need to purchase the Extensions pack, which costs $269 and includes all the announced 2022 extensions (as well as the two unannounced extensions, which will be unveiled in the coming months). 

Alternatively, you can pay for a subscription, which costs $9.80/month (paid yearly) and includes Luminar Neo along with the entire set of extensions.

So if you currently do – or plan to do – focus stacking, then head over to Skylum’s website and take a look at the Luminar Neo extensions pack. And check back here for future updates!

Now over to you:

Are you interested in Skylum’s Focus Stacking extension? Will you buy the Extensions pack? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Skylum to Add Focus Stacking Extension to Luminar Neo appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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[Photography] How to Make Money With Photography: 10 Great Ways

The post How to Make Money With Photography: 10 Great Ways appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

Want to turn your photographic skills into a steady income stream? This article is guaranteed to help you out.

These days, most folks claim there’s no decent money to be made with a camera. But while it might be harder to earn a living now than in the past, photography still offers plenty of moneymaking avenues for both professionals and amateurs – you just don’t realize it yet!

Below, I share the 10 best ways to make money with photography, from the classics (e.g., wedding photography) to more unorthodox options (e.g., photographing tourists). I also offer several key pieces of advice that’ll dramatically increase your chances of success.

So if you’re ready to start earning some cash, then let’s dive right in!

1. Submit to stock libraries

Earning money by taking photos of money? You can with stock photography.

Stock photography may be more competitive than it was back in the film days, but it’s still a great way to earn a passive income that will last for years. The basic idea? You submit images to stock agencies, which then license them out to buyers (such as magazines, websites, and businesses).

Note that there are two main forms of stock websites: Macrostock and microstock. Macrostock websites sell more expensive photos, so the images need to be unique, whereas microstock websites sell photos for a cheaper price but at high volumes.

Which is better for making money? There are pros and cons to each option, though both pay the photographer a relatively low percentage of the licensing fee. Also, stock photography – whether macro or micro – often requires model and property releases, so bear that in mind before you start shooting.

Macrostock is…

• Much harder to join, and your photographs need to be exceptional and unique.
• Images can be sold for thousands of dollars, so the income from one sale can be significant.
• Images of people are often requested, which means you need to pay models and get model releases.

Examples of macrostock companies are Alamy and Getty Images.

This is my best-performing stock photo; it has sold many times!

Microstock is…

• Easier to join, though the selection process still requires you to show a high level of technical expertise.
• Images are often sold for five dollars or less. In order to make an income, you will have to sell 1000s of images.
• Images designed for mass consumption do well, such as product, food, and people photos.

Examples of microstock agencies are Shutterstock and Dreamstime.

2. Join a tour company

Travel and photography go well together, so why not earn money from photography while trotting the globe? That’s what joining a tour company will allow you to do; you’ll take photos of the company’s clients as you hope from continent to continent.

The onus is on you to produce results within set criteria – in other words, you may not have much artistic license – so it isn’t for everyone. The job will come with targets, and you’ll need to take a certain number of photos per day.

The nature of this work can often be seasonal, and a related option is to photograph vacation programs, where part of the job is to capture the participants and locations they visit.

Joining a tour company is a great way to combine travel with photography.

3. Become a wedding photographer

Ask someone how to make money as a photographer, and the image of a wedding shooter – multiple cameras in tow, with bags full of gear – often comes to mind.

And it’s true: Wedding photography can be lucrative. But it’s highly competitive, too, so if that puts you off, you’re in the wrong game.

If you do decide to move forward as a wedding shooter, it’s essential that you produce a high standard of work for your clients. A few pieces of advice:

• Get good at portrait photography; weddings are about people!
• Learn how to use a flash; there are a lot of low light situations at weddings.
• Make sure you can retouch photos using post-processing.
• Read articles and books about wedding photography.
• Start by assisting an established wedding photographer.

If you follow these tips, you’ll have a good grounding for what’s needed. Wedding photography isn’t for everyone; you need to stay calm under a lot of pressure. You also need to be a great business person. But if you can get it to work, you’ll make a living taking photos!

Wedding photography is one of the most well-known ways to earn money in this industry.

4. Photograph couples and/or events for a fee

Couples are always in need of photographers, especially if they’re getting married (and if you’re a couples photographer, you can often successfully combine it with wedding photography ). As with wedding photography, you’ll need to be capable of producing great results, and you’ll also need to do a good job of marketing yourself.

Event organizers also require good portrait photographers who can react fast in dynamic situations yet is also good at capturing staged group shots. To start, contact event venues in your area and offer your services.

Pro tip: If you’re shooting events, try to get model releases whenever possible. That way, you can earn additional income from licensing your images as stock.

5. Work for magazines

Making money with photography is great, and it’s even better when your work is published. Imagine seeing your photos on a page spread or cover of a professionally published magazine…

Unfortunately, the magazine market is a tough one. The money available to publishers is going down, which has resulted in lower commissions. Here are a few items of advice to follow if you’re looking to break into the magazine world:

• Learn to write. This is huge. Publishers love to have the whole package. If you can provide images and text, you’ll be at the front of the queue.
• Work for free. Yes, the ultimate goal is to make money, but it often helps to start out with a small magazine published by volunteers. Your chances of breaking into the business are much higher this way.
• Then work for a fee. Once you have a portfolio of published work, look for new magazines to work with, but focus on those that have the budget to pay you.
• Be unique. Find stories that are so compelling they can’t be ignored by the publisher. That will often mean going the extra mile. And be careful; serious journalism comes with some risk.
• Do your market research. When you’re looking to publish in a specific magazine, make sure you know the style of content they usually produce. Look to offer them content that is the same as their previous work but with a new flavor.
• Find the publisher. Check out magazine websites or hard copies and find the name of the publisher. They’re the ones you’ll need to email with your pitch.

6. Sell your work as fine art

Fine-art photographers sell their work through galleries, websites, art shows, and more. It can be a difficult market to break into, and the initial costs can be high, but if your work is extremely high quality, then you’ll have a shot.

Non-generic work with a recognizable style does well here. The goal is to produce work that people want to hang on their walls. Once again, good marketing will help you succeed, and exposure through websites and magazines (e.g., interviews) is very helpful. A few tips:

• Don’t shoot every subject. Go with a project that has a consistent theme.
• Choose your venue carefully. Is it somewhere people actually visit? Your chance of success will be better at a popular venue, though you may need to pay for access.
• Do plenty of marketing. Make sure you have good fliers, posters, and – if you can get it – some local news or radio features on your work.
• Think about print size. If you’re selling at art shows, you’ll need to do printing in advance. And while it’s great to print large, those prints may not actually sell, and you’ll be left with a whole lot of leftover pieces you need to store.
• Consider offering merchandise. Not everyone will buy the prints you have on display. Smaller items such as postcards or a coffee table book are great ways to attract additional buyers and make extra sales.
• Don’t neglect your website. Make sure you keep your work up to date and available for internet sales.
• Have a guestbook available for those who enjoyed your work; ask for their name and email address. That way, you can contact them with promotions!

7. Become an educator

These days, the number of people who use a camera and want to learn photography is higher than ever. If you have photographic skills, then each and every beginner photographer is a potential student!

So spend time ensuring your work gets seen, then start offering workshops for people wishing to learn your techniques. These can be conducted face-to-face or online.

You shouldn’t only focus on workshops, however. There are a handful of additional ways to make money as a photography educator:

• Write a book. Choose a topic that you excel in and write a comprehensive book. While you could get it printed, it’s much easier to produce and market ebooks.
• Write articles. You can write for online magazines and blogs, or you can write for traditional magazines.
• One-on-one mentoring. People always want to learn from the best. If you’re a leader in your field, then you can offer one-on-one tutoring and portfolio reviews.

Writing a book can lead to a good income stream, especially if you can find a publisher.

8. Work as a press photographer

This is similar to magazine photography, only you’ll be focusing on current events. Many photographers in this field are very experienced and work with an agency like AP, Getty, or AFP.

Therefore, you can’t just walk into this field and expect the money to start flowing; you’ll need to get experience first. When you find an opportunity to take photographs of a newsworthy event, get out there and start shooting! Build up a portfolio, and if you get some great shots along the way, try pitching it to a newspaper. If you can get yourself known, it may lead to future work.

Events – such as political protests – are opportunities to build your photojournalism portfolio.

9. Product photography

Product photography often overlaps with stock photography – after all, many stock photos feature products! – but it works somewhat differently. Instead of capturing photos on your own dime and licensing them to buyers through an agency, you work directly with businesses. They send you the products, you photograph them, and you get paid for the results (often on an hourly or per-image basis).

Product photography can be done locally, but much of it is done remotely, so don’t be discouraged if you live in a less populous area. Pick an area of specialization (e.g., dog toys, perfumes, or power tools), capture a handful of sample shots of products that you own, then try contacting websites that are in need of a product-photo upgrade.

You’ll need access to a space with at least a few off-camera flashes (a basement or garage studio works just fine!), and you’ll need strong lighting skills to ensure you get high-quality images that are ready for website or magazine display. Note that you can do product photography as a freelancer, though another option is to apply for a job with a professional product photo company.

10. Take photos of tourists

This type of photography has recently become popular, and it mostly just involves following people around on their trips and taking photos.

Note that it’s different from joining a tour company; you won’t be photographing huge groups of people or touristy events, but you’ll instead do day-long photoshoots for couples or families who want top-grade photos from their trips (that they can then show off on social media).

Photographing tourists at as they enjoy their trip is one way to earn some money.

This work combines the skills of a good travel photographer with that of a portrait and wedding photographer. It’s essential that you have good local knowledge of the place you’re photographing (you’ll often find yourself acting as a tour guide as much as a photographer). If you want to try your hand at this type of photography, you could self-promote or use a company like Angle.

How to make money off photography: two quick tips

In this section, I share two essential tips everyone should know before getting into paid photographic work:

1. Diversify your income streams

Everyone knows that putting all your eggs in one basket is risky. The sensible thing to do is diversify.

Luckily, as you should now realize, photography offers many different ways to make money. In the beginning, income from each area will be small. But in combination, all your revenue streams can reach a significant sum.

The biggest advantage of diversification is protection; if one stream dries up, you have others to fall back on.

That said, over time you may find yourself gravitating toward and specializing in one particular type of work. That’s okay, but even after specializing, it’s worth maintaining a few additional income streams; you never know when you might need them.

2. Look for a niche

A signature style, subject, or technique will make you stand out from the crowd. So when you’re just starting out, aim to find your niche and stick with it.

You might use a creative technique like light painting, refraction, or long exposure. You might specialize in a subject, such as babies, dogs, or landscapes. In a competitive world, having a unique approach is a good thing!

Does settling mean you’ve turned your back on income diversification? Absolutely not! It just means you’d be marketing within your niche rather than to the wider world of photography. You can apply your signature style to weddings, stock photography, workshops, and more.

How to make money as a photographer: final words

As you now realize, there are plenty of ways to make money with your photography!

So pick one (or a few) of these ideas. Start determining a strategy. And see if you can start generating income.

How do you plan to make money photographing? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Make Money With Photography: 10 Great Ways appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

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[Photography] Lightroom Radial Filter: A Comprehensive Guide

The post Lightroom Radial Filter: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Stacey Hill.

What is the Lightroom Radial filter? How does it work? And what can it do for your photos?

I’m a huge fan of the Radial filter. Yes, it initially seems complicated, but it’s actually far easier to use than you might think. And it’s insanely handy; with a bit of Radial filter know-how, you can create vignettes, emphasize your main subjects, create beautiful sun flare, and so much more.

In this article, I offer everything you need to get started, including:

• Simple instructions for activating and applying the Radial filter
• When to use the filter when editing (and when to avoid it)
• Easy tips and tricks to improve your editing abilities
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to level up your photos with a bit of Radial filter magic, then let’s dive right in!

What is the Lightroom Radial filter?

The Radial filter, also known as the Radial Gradient mask, allows you to apply adjustments to only portions of your photos. It restricts edits to a circular or elliptical shape:

For instance, you can use the Radial filter to brighten up the center of your image:

Or you can use the Radial filter to darken the edges (as I explore in the tips section below).

But Radial filters aren’t limited to broad tonal adjustments. You can also apply sharpening, adjust white balance, or even alter colors – all within the Radial filter’s curved boundary.

When might this be useful? Keep reading:

When should you use a Radial filter?

The Radial filter is plenty powerful; as you already know, you can use it to target specific portions of an image for editing (while leaving other portions untouched).

But when is this actually helpful? Here are a handful of times when the Radial filter works great:

• If you want to brighten up a portrait or animal subject while leaving the background dark
• If you want to selectively sharpen your subject
• If you want to selectively blur the background
• If you want to create a vignette around the edges of the frame to focus the viewer on the image’s center
• If you want to create the appearance of sunlight on the edge of an object
• If you want to enhance the color or brightness of the sun
• If you want to create the illusion of light in an inactive lamp

Don’t go overboard with the Radial filter, however. If you want to make an adjustment that would look great when applied to the entire image, skip the Radial filter and just use the standard Lightroom sliders.

And if the Radial shape doesn’t really fit your subject, it’s often better to try a different filter/mask, such as a Brush or a Graduated filter (also known as a Linear Gradient mask). Brushes are great for more fine-grained edits, while Graduated filters tend to work best when you want to selectively edit the sky or the foreground.

How to use the Lightroom Radial filter (step by step)

In this section, I explain all the Radial filter basics, including where you can find it in Lightroom, how you can adjust its size, and much more.

Step 1: Access the Radial filter in the Masks panel

To gain access to the Radial filter, you’ll need to head into the Lightroom Develop module, then click on the Masking icon:

Tap the Radial Gradient button, then click and drag your cursor across the image.

An elliptical selection will appear, filled with a red gradient. That is your Radial filter, and the red overlay indicates the placement and strength of your editing adjustments.

Step 2: Adjust the Radial filter’s size and feather

Once you’ve created a Radial filter, you can move it by dragging the center pin, and you can resize or rotate it by dragging the outer circle handles. Drag inward to shrink down the filter; drag outward to enlarge it.

Notice that the Radial filter also includes an inner concentric circle. This indicates the feather of the effect – in other words, it controls whether the edit has a hard or a soft edge. By dragging the inner handle, you can force the edit to feather gradually outward:

Or you can create a more sudden (hard-edged) effect:

You can also adjust the gradient effect by raising and lowering the Feather slider in the Radial Gradient panel:

Generally speaking, it’s best to use a heavy feather. A hard edge will create clear changes in brightness, sharpness, or color in your image, while a soft, carefully feathered edge will help the edit blend in with the scene. (The exception is when you want to selectively edit a hard-edged subject. In such cases, a low-feather Radial gradient will fit perfectly with the subject edges, and the result will be highly realistic.)

If you want to adjust the area outside of the Radial filter while leaving the inner portion unaffected, check the Invert box in the right-hand corner:

Step 3: Apply edits to the selected area

On the right-hand side of the screen, you should see the Radial Gradient panel, which offers a list of all possible edits. You can adjust the exposure, the contrast, or the texture; you can also change the image saturation, remove noise, or add a color overlay.

Simply move the relevant slider, and the change will take effect within the Radial filter mask. You can also combine multiple adjustment sliders to create a unique effect.

Step 4: Add additional Radial filters

At this point, you can hit the Done button and continue on with your normal editing – or you can create some more Radial filters!

Simply head into the Masks panel, then tap Create New Mask:

Choose Radial Gradient from the dropdown menu, and then – voila! – drag your new filter onto the screen.

You can add as many filters as you like, though it’s best to keep your approach as simple as possible; you don’t want to create so many filters that you start to forget how they’re actually affecting your image.

Tips for working with the Lightroom Radial filter

Now that you know the Radial filter basics, it’s time to learn how you can level up your skills:

1. Start by applying global edits

When you’re processing a new image, it can be tempting to skip straight to those powerful Radial filter edits – but it’s often best to start with global (that is, untargeted) edits and only later narrow your approach.

Global editing can handle broader problems, such as an incorrect white balance or a bad exposure. It helps set a baseline, which you can then improve upon with your Radial filters. I recommend using global adjustments to apply:

• White balance corrections
• Exposure corrections
• Contrast
• Saturation
• Color grading
• Clarity
• HSL adjustments

You should also use that first phase of editing to handle any perspective distortion and lens corrections. At the end of the day, the Radial filters should be used to apply finishing touches to an already-processed image. Make sense?

2. Use a Radial filter to add a vignette

A vignette refers to a darkening effect around the outside of the frame; it’s a great way to direct the viewer’s eye toward the main subject, and it’s a trick that many photographers – including most professionals – use in their photos.

Now, you can technically create a vignette using the Lightroom Effects panel, but this approach doesn’t offer much flexibility. If you want to create an customizable vignette, I encourage you to use a Radial filter instead.

Here’s how it works:

First, create a Radial filter over your main subject. Make sure that it’s large (drag it out over much of the frame) and has a strong feather.

Then check the Invert button. You want the red overlay to be spread over the edges of the frame only:

Slowly drop the Exposure slider. The vignette effect will start to appear.

If the transition between the darkened area and the central part of the scene is too dramatic, increase the Feather. Your goal should be to create an effect that can be felt, but not really seen (unless the viewer knows what to look for).

You might also consider adjusting the Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks sliders for a more targeted result.

3. Combine multiple filters/masks for a custom shape

Radial filters are great, but sometimes they don’t quite offer the shape that you’re after – which is where mask addition and subtraction come in handy.

First, create a Radial gradient and use it to cover as much of the subject as possible.

Then tap the Add button, choose another filter/mask, and use it to add to your Radial selection.

(If you want to subtract from a portion of your selection, hit the Subtract button instead.)

If you add to (or subtract from) your Radial filter, the adjustments you make will apply to the entire modified shape, not just the original ellipse.

And you don’t need to determine the shape of your filter up front; you can always start with a Radial filter, add a Linear Gradient, then – if you don’t like the result – subtract from it using a Brush sometime down the line.

Here, I’ve added a Brush adjustment to the Radial Filter applied in the previous tip.

The Lightroom Radial filter: final words

As you can see, careful use of the Radial filter is a great way to improve your photos. It’ll help you make targeted adjustments to your shots, and it can also bring focus to the main subject.

So practice working with the Radial filter. Experiment with different edits. Once you get good, the sky is the limit!

How do you plan to use the Radial filter? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Lightroom Radial Filter: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Stacey Hill.

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[Photography] 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2022)

The post 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2022) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

Struggling to pick the perfect landscape camera? Choosing the best camera for landscape photography can be a daunting task. You have to consider the brand, size, lens options, resolution, and image quality, not to mention price.

But don’t worry; I’ve been there, too. I’ve spent plenty of time researching and purchasing cameras of my own – which is why I’m well-equipped to share my favorite landscape photography model with you.

So whether you’re a beginner looking to get your first camera or an experienced photographer in need of a more dedicated option, we’ve got you covered. Below, we share a list of our top 10 favorite landscape cameras, including options for every budget and brand preference.

Let’s get started.

1. Sony a7R IV

The Sony a7R IV is a superb-quality camera that’s capable of impressing pretty much any dedicated landscape photographer. Key features include a jaw-dropping 61-megapixel full-frame sensor for optimal image quality, the ability to shoot handheld at slow shutter speeds thanks to a powerful in-body image stabilization system, and an attractive array of lenses to choose from (including extreme wide-angle glass to large telephotos).

Low-light performance is impressive, especially given the megapixel count, so the a7R IV will work great for astrophotography – and thanks to robust weather sealing, you can shoot in all conditions, including rain and snow. The camera is also noticeably cheaper than the Canon EOS R5 (on this list, below).

2. Nikon Z7 II

The Z7 II is Nikon’s top landscape photography camera and one of the all-around best landscape options available in 2022. It boasts plenty of great features, including a lightweight build, in-body image stabilization, a touchscreen, a 45.7-megapixel sensor, impressive dynamic range, and excellent image quality, and while the Z7 II isn’t exactly cheap, it’s worth every penny.

The Z7 II is highly responsive in the field and has great focusing capabilities in low light. The camera also packs an exceptional electronic viewfinder and plenty of customizable features, so you can create an optimal (and enjoyable!) shooting experience. Note that the Z7 II is a welcome refinement of the already impressive Z7; the second iteration features a dual processor and dual card slots, which are hugely useful for the professional working photographer. But if you can’t afford the Z7 II, the Z7 is a great landscape alternative.

3. Canon 5DS R

The Canon 5DS R isn’t exactly the newest camera around, but if you prefer DSLRs to mirrorless technology, this 50.6-megapixel full-frame model is a fantastic choice. The 5DS R features superb image quality and an impressive build. Files are beautifully detailed, and when coupled with the classy L-series lenses, they match the very best high-resolution cameras available (even if the dynamic range and low-light performance can’t compete with newer models).

For added functionality, you get 61 phase-detection points and outstanding build quality. Another bonus: The 5DS R costs less than Canon’s highest-end landscape camera, the EOS R5 – especially if you’re willing to buy used.

4. Canon EOS R5

Canon arrived late to the full-frame mirrorless game and the company’s first few models received mixed reviews – but Canon knocked it out of the park with the EOS R5, which is not just an outstanding landscape camera but an all-around photographic (and videographic) beast.

The excellent 45-megapixel sensor packs a punch, providing amazing detail, a wide dynamic range, and superb low-light performance. And the autofocus system is ridiculously snappy – always handy in case you plan to include moving subjects (such as birds or animals) in your landscape scenes.

There’s a growing range of RF lenses that mount directly on the EOS R5, plus you get the added advantage of 8K video. While the electronic shutter takes a bit of getting used to, the advanced weather sealing is fantastic. The EOS R5 does come with a hefty price tag, and it’s a huge investment for someone who simply does landscape photography as a hobby, so if you like the sound of the EOS R5 but don’t have the budget for it, I’d also recommend the EOS R6 (which costs significantly less and does sacrifice some megapixels but still packs plenty of amazing capabilities).

5. Nikon D850

The Nikon D850 is Nikon’s top landscape DSLR; like the Canon 5DS R (above), it’s not the newest camera on the block, but it offers a bevy of features for serious scenic shooters, including outstanding dynamic range, excellent (45.6-megapixel) resolution, and a touch-sensitive LCD screen that tilts.

The D850 is compatible with dozens of pro-level landscape lenses from Nikon, and it’s very solidly built, so you can shoot during inclement weather without issue. The autofocus is surprisingly capable, and the extended battery performance makes it a popular choice for shooting on long nature photo trips. The D850 is still on the pricier side – it only costs a few hundred less than the far newer Z7 II – but if you love the feeling of a DSLR in your hands and you’re a fan of the Nikon lens lineup, then it’s your best option.

6. Canon EOS 6D Mark II

If you’re a hobbyist landscape photography and you don’t have thousands to spend on a camera, consider the Canon 6D Mark II, an entry-level full-frame favorite. It’s an older DSLR, but don’t let its age fool you; the image quality is outstanding, and the 26 MP sensor offers plenty of detail for large prints and serious cropping.

The 6D Mark II is relatively portable for a DSLR and works well for hiking trips and travel landscape photography. It also offers excellent ergonomics, including a fully articulating touchscreen for those low- and high-angle scenic shots and a prominent front grip for comfortable handholding. The 6D Mark II is even compatible with Canon’s excellent L-lens lineup; combine it with the excellent (but reasonably priced) 17-40mm f/4L or 24-70mm f/4L, and prepare to be impressed by the results!

7. Sony a6000

Are you a beginner photographer looking to invest in a camera for landscape shooting? Then check out the Sony a6000, the ultimate compromise between power, price, and portability. It offers surprisingly fast (11 frames-per-second) continuous shooting, packs 24.2 megapixels, and delivers great images of landscapes in all conditions – making it a great entry-level landscape camera and a solid introduction to the mirrorless market.

The a6000 is especially impressive thanks to its size and weight; you can slip it in a camera bag or a pocket without difficulty, and you can carry it all day while hiking and hardly even notice the heft. The viewfinder resolution is on the low side, but given the sub-$1000 price, it’s a justifiable tradeoff. (If your budget allows for the extra cost and you want more advanced features, including in-body image stabilization, the Sony a6600 is a higher-level option.)

8. Fujifilm X-T4

Need a camera with exceptional build quality that doesn’t compromise on portability and dynamic range? The Fujifilm X-T4 is one of the best all-around options for photographers – and a great landscape camera to boot.

The design looks beautifully retro, and the lightweight system is a joy to operate. One of the biggest perks of the X-T4 is the feel; hold the camera in your hand, and it becomes a (stylish!) extension of your brain as you rotate dials, flick buttons, and make manual adjustments using the lens aperture ring.

The X-T4 is also a great choice for buyers requiring solid image quality in a small body; while the sensor is only APS-C, you wouldn’t know it from the impressive high-ISO performance, which is perfect for low-light shooting. And the X-T4 offers in-body image stabilization, so you can reduce that shutter speed without mounting the camera on a tripod. The X-T4 is also very reasonably priced given its capabilities, but if your budget is limited, consider its predecessor, the X-T3, which offers many of the same features and costs quite a bit less.

9. Nikon D5600

The Nikon D5600 is a great budget model for beginners. No, it doesn’t come with flashy features or crazy-high megapixel counts, but it does offer solid low-light performance and beautiful image quality.

The D5600 is a midrange DSLR packing 24 MP of resolution, not to mention a handy 3.2-inch vari-angle touchscreen, which is perfect for elevating your landscape compositions. The build isn’t on par with DSLRs like the Nikon D850, but it’s far from bad – and the 39-point AF system and the time-lapse movie mode are great additional features. The D5600 has a wide range of interchangeable Nikkor lenses at its disposal, and its small and light body is ideal for long walks in nature.

10. Fujifilm X-T30 II

Here’s my final choice for the best landscape camera: the Fujifilm X-T30 II. It’s a top midrange mirrorless camera for landscape photographers, and it’s a model that users absolutely love (and for good reason!). First, there’s that retro style, which includes plenty of prominent dials for a tactile shooting experience. And the compact style ensures you can carry your X-T30 II around with you everywhere, whether you’re going for a short drive or a lengthy hike.

The tilting LCD makes the X-T30 II highly versatile, and the top-notch 26 MP APS-C sensor can handle low-light scenarios like a boss. For those after an even cheaper model, the X-T30 is a great alternative.

How to choose the best camera for landscape photography

When looking for the right landscape camera, what characteristics should you take into account? Here are a handful of key items to consider:

Weight

The weight of your landscape camera is considerably important. If you are out walking long distances to your chosen location, you don’t want to be trudging for miles with the burden of a heavy camera and lenses in your backpack.

On the other hand, lightweight cameras do tend to sacrifice build quality, so it’s important that you maintain a balance – especially if you want to shoot in tough weather.

Resolution

For landscape photography, the higher the number of megapixels, the better; enhanced resolution will give your camera the ability to record those extra details and tones. Also, sensor size is key. The larger the sensor size, the better the image quality (generally speaking).

Build quality

If you are someone who enjoys capturing landscapes in dramatic weather, it is essential that your camera has appropriate weather sealing to keep out the elements and enable you to carry on shooting when it rains.

ISO and IBIS

While a sophisticated autofocus system with quick subject selection and fast shooting modes is not essential, in-camera features such as high-ISO capabilities and in-body image stabilization (IBIS) can certainly make a difference.

For example, impressive high-ISO performance will help you capture more dynamic range in low light – perfect for anyone who likes to shoot the stars, the planets, or the moon.

Camera type

Generally speaking, advancements in technology mean that smartphones, compacts, and bridge cameras are all capable of achieving great landscape photos. But while these options are cheaper, they’re less practical and adaptable than other setups. Many professional and enthusiast photographers choose either a full-frame DSLR or mirrorless body as their go-to landscape photography camera.

(Which is better, mirrorless or DSLR? Most DSLR cameras are part of well-established lineups and therefore offer great landscape lenses. Mirrorless cameras are newer to the photography arena and have fewer lens choices available.)

Medium format cameras are another great option for landscape photographers; they provide the very best quality images. However, these cameras are often very heavy, very bulky, and cost thousands upon thousands of dollars – so they’re only used by a fraction of professionals.

If you’re a beginner, full-frame and medium format cameras may be out of budget, and that’s okay. I encourage you to also consider APS-C cameras, which are cheaper, lighter, and smaller (though the image quality isn’t quite as strong).

Remember: The best camera for you depends on your personal needs and budget!

Which landscape photography camera is right for you?

With so many great cameras to consider, it can be challenging to decide which is the best camera to invest in.

While it’s justifiable to go for the latest mirrorless cameras, DSLRs still handle well and give great image quality and overall performance. The Fujifilm X-T30 II, Canon 6D Mark II, and Sony a6000 are great options for beginners looking to get their first landscape photography model. And if you’re after a more dedicated and sophisticated camera, a full-frame unit like the Sony a7R IV or the Nikon Z7 II packs a lot of features to suit more experienced photographers.

Now over to you:

Which of these landscape photography cameras do you like the most? Do you have a favorite that didn’t make our list? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2022) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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