lovelifey: July 2023

Jul 30, 2023

[Photography] 10 Tips for Stunning Night Street Photography (+ FAQ)

The post 10 Tips for Stunning Night Street Photography (+ FAQ) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

I love to do street photography at night. The city is lit with a myriad of interesting and colorful light sources, such as lampposts, neon signs, store windows, car lights, and bare bulbs. People walk around in their favorite outfits. Scenes that seem bland by day turn ominous and fascinating after dark.

But capturing beautiful night street photography can be hard. You have to choose the right settings, contend with camera shake, find the perfect subjects, and more. It’s enough to give anyone a headache!

Fortunately, I’ve been doing street photography at night for many years. And over time, I’ve picked up plenty of tips, tricks, and nuggets of wisdom that’ll improve anyone’s street night shooting. I’ve tested different settings, I’ve determined how to handle nighttime lighting, and I’ve learned how to stay safe.

So to discover my top street night photography tips – and to learn how to capture gorgeous images even in the darkness – read on!

What is night street photography?

street night photography diner — 1/80s | f/2.8 | ISO 1600

Night street photography is the practice of photographing the everyday landscape – generally featuring people in a city – after dusk.

Photographing at night comes with a variety of challenges, yet street photographers have been shooting at night for around a century. The pioneering modernist photographer Andre Kertesz captured beautiful nighttime street shots in Paris in the 1920s – and he inspired another skillful Parisian photographer, Brassai, to create breathtaking night street shots in the 1930s.

Nighttime street photographers don’t have the luxury of strong sunlight, so they’re forced to use a variety of different approaches to compensate. These include technical and equipment-based techniques such as long shutter speeds, high ISOs, flashes, and fast lenses, as well as visual techniques, such as adjusted aesthetics that embrace blur and grain.

Night street photography tends to be wonderfully atmospheric, and it’s proven itself to be very popular in the 21st century, especially as low-light camera technology continues to improve.

The benefits and drawbacks of photographing the streets at night

Nighttime street photography comes with several major benefits – in other words, there’s a reason for its popularity!

For one, the streets tend to be emptier at night, allowing you to isolate a subject or two without difficulty – this can make for more powerful minimalistic shots.

Photographing at nighttime with streetlights also adds a different mood to images, giving a sense of mystery, nostalgia, drama, and even horror, depending on how you approach your shots.

And budding street photographers – and even more accomplished shooters – sometimes struggle with fear or discomfort when photographing strangers. Working at night, however, lends a sense of distance and anonymity that makes for less anxiety.

Of course, night street photography comes with several significant challenges. Cameras rely on light to capture sharp, well-exposed images, and nighttime – as you are undoubtedly aware! – doesn’t offer much light. To address this, it’s important to have a real technical mastery of the camera; otherwise, you’ll end up with images that are blurry, grainy, or dark (or a combination of the three).

And while I do talk about this in greater depth at the end of the article, photographing at night in certain areas can be genuinely dangerous. Obviously, this depends on the location, and it also depends on the approach you take. Below, I offer tips for taking proper safety precautions at night, but it really is important to keep this in mind so you don’t go in unprepared.

The best camera settings for night street photos

street night photography person in the snow — 1/125s | f/2.5 | ISO 6400

Capturing sharp street photos is mostly about the shutter speed, so that’s where I’d like to start. To freeze motion during the day, I prefer to use a shutter speed of 1/320s (with 1/160s as my lower threshold). But at night, this changes. In the brightest areas – lit by streetlights or car headlights – you can comfortably photograph at 1/250s, but most of the time, you’ll need to use a shutter speed between 1/160s and 1/60s. Otherwise, you’ll be forced to boost your ISO to ridiculous heights, and you’ll risk ruining your images with noise.

Note that when your shutter speed is set to 1/60s, you’ll need steady hands. (A lens or camera with image stabilization can help, too!) In fact, to photograph handheld at 1/60s, you need to stop your own motion completely. Fortunately, with some practice, this can be done.

As for your aperture setting: The wider the aperture, the faster you can make your shutter speed (or the lower you can drop your ISO). It’s possible to shoot at f/4 in brighter areas at night, but if you can shoot at f/2.8, f/2, or even f/1.8, you’ll have a much easier time. In other words, the wider your aperture for night street photography, the better.

Finally, you’ll need to raise your ISO to 1600, 3200, or even 6400. With modern digital cameras, you can photograph at high ISOs and come away with decent images, and while it’s always best to keep the ISO as low as possible, you just won’t manage to get well-exposed shots at night otherwise. (I personally shoot at ISO 3200, and I sometimes go to ISO 6400 in especially dark areas or when I’m photographing fast-moving subjects.)

What camera mode should you use? If you’re doing fast-paced shooting in a variety of different lighting scenarios (i.e., moving in and out of the street lights), Aperture Priority can work well – just set your camera to your widest aperture and highest tolerable ISO, then let it choose the shutter speed for you. (If the shutter speed drops below 1/60s, then you’ll either need to accept some blurriness or boost that ISO further.)

And as for your method of focusing: Normally, zone focusing is a great method for street photography, but when using an ultra-wide aperture at night, you’ll end up missing a lot of images. You can try using manual focus to prefocus in a certain area if you can anticipate a shot in advance, but working with continuous AF and one of your camera’s tracking modes might be the better option, depending on your camera’s capability. (If you’re not sure what will work best, try to do some experimentation!)

Essential gear for nighttime street photography

The best nighttime street photography gear is broadly similar to daytime street photography gear in that you want your equipment to be lightweight, compact, and inconspicuous. That said, there are a few things to keep in mind when purchasing new equipment for those nighttime adventures:

Pick a camera with good high-ISO capabilities

Since you’ll often be shooting at ISO 3200, ISO 6400, and even beyond, it’s essential that you use a street photography camera that won’t ruin your shots with an explosion of noise. Consider investing in a compact full-frame camera or a top-notch APS-C model, and try to keep the megapixel count on the lower side, as ultra-high MP cameras tend to actually perform worse when shooting at high ISOs compared to the lower MP siblings (assuming the technology is from the same generation).

Low-light focusing capabilities are also very handy – many cameras struggle to acquire focus in the dark, while others are high performers in this area. If your camera can’t focus in near darkness, that’s not an absolute dealbreaker – you can focus manually or shoot in the streetlights – but it’ll certainly limit your flexibility.

Pick a lens with a wide maximum aperture

As I mentioned above, you’ll want to make sure you pick a compact lens for shooting the streets at night. But while most daytime street photography is shot at an aperture of around f/8, nighttime is a whole different ball game. You’ll need to widen your lens’s aperture to its maximum, which means that the wider the maximum aperture that’s offered by the lens, the better.

Therefore, I’d recommend grabbing a lens with a maximum aperture of at least f/2.8 (and f/1.8 or f/1.4 can be even better, assuming the models are still relatively compact).

It can also help to grab a slightly wider prime than you might be inclined to use otherwise, such as a 35mm, 28mm, or – if you’re interested in a more unique look – 24mm. Wider lenses are less prone to camera shake, and they’re also easier to use at night since the darkness and lack of activity results in fewer distractions throughout a broader scene.

Of course, you can still use a standard 50mm lens for nighttime street photography – a 50mm f/1.8, for instance, is great in nearly every street-photography scenario – but if you have the opportunity to go wide, I’d recommend at least testing it out!

10 tips for night street photography

Now that you understand the best settings and equipment for photographing the streets at night, let’s take a look at a few tips – for both beginners and advanced street shooters – to enhance your results.

1. Seek out light sources

Always pay attention to the main light sources in a scene. This is true no matter where or when you are photographing, but it becomes even more important at night. So instead of hunting for subjects, start by finding a beautiful light source or an area with good lighting, then wait around for something to happen.

Note that night street photography lighting can be anything: car headlights, streetlights, neon signs, window lighting, or even smartphone light. Simply look for noticeable illumination, then pay careful attention to how these light sources hit potential subjects. Adjust your angle until you get the lighting effect you want, then shoot away!

When I was photographing the streets of New York City, I found a beautiful restaurant with bright windows. I used the restaurant lighting to bring out detail in the passersby:

people outside NYC restaurant at night — 1/60s | f/2.8 | ISO 3200

2. Take plenty of shots

Sometimes, street photographers like to use a more deliberate approach, capturing only a couple of images of each subject. This works fine during the day, especially if you can confidently nail the focus and exposure – but at night, it’s a recipe for a lot of failed images.

So instead of just taking one or two images of each subject or scene, when you’re out at night, push things a bit. Don’t be afraid to capture 5-10 shots of the same subject, and if you’re willing to sort through all the shots later, you might even consider using your camera’s burst mode to fire off dozens of shots in a few seconds.

The idea here is to simply maximize your chances of success. The more you shoot, the more likely you are to hit on that moment when your subject is moving slowly enough to stay sharp, even at 1/60s – and the more likely are you to nail the focus even with a razor-thin depth of field.

3. Photograph nightlife

Certain parts of the city – such as the business district – can empty out at night; they’ll make for a poor night street photography experience. Other areas, however, will get busier after sunset, and they’ll offer plenty of opportunities.

So seek out the nightlife and shoot it! You might consider doing some internet searches for bars and clubs in your area, then make sure you head on over as the night begins. Alternatively, if you’re after more formal-looking subjects, go for a walk near some upscale restaurants and see what you can find!

photographing the nightlife — 1/125s | f/2 | ISO 6400

And don’t feel like you’re restricted to photographing people on the street outside clubs and restaurants. You can capture all sorts of stunning effects by shooting through windows (plus, if you’re feeling a bit nervous about photographing people, the window can act as a barrier and reduce your anxiety).

4. Alternate between getting close and stepping back

I’m a big proponent of Robert Capa’s advice that “if your photos aren’t good enough, you’re not close enough.” However, I often violate this rule at night.

You see, while I do try to get close to many of my subjects – and I encourage you to do the same – I also try to create compositions where the subjects are small aspects of the overall scene. At night, backgrounds can be much more beautiful than during the day, so it often pays to have people become the secondary element in the scene, rather than the primary focus.

This approach comes with a technical advantage: When your subjects are off in the distance, you won’t need to use a fast shutter speed to capture their motion. A nearby subject can be frozen at 1/125s or faster; a distant subject can often be photographed at 1/60s and turn out sharp, even if it’s on the move.

5. Experiment with a tripod for creative effects

When doing street night photography, it’s usually best to go handheld. After all, you never know what interesting things are about to happen, and you want to be able to react fast.

That said, it can be useful to bring along a tripod, especially if you’re interested in capturing some long-exposure street photography.

The idea here is to find a busy area, mount your camera on a tripod, then use a slow shutter speed to capture people in motion. You’ll need to experiment with different shutter speeds (1/8s is a good starting point), and you’ll need to shoot a lot of photos, but you’ll eventually end up with some gorgeous motion blur effects:

motion blur night street photography — 1/8s | f/4 | ISO 800 | Tripod

It took me a long time to capture the image displayed above; I wanted the people spread throughout the entire scene, and I also wanted an interesting foreground subject (in the end, I was satisfied by the pose of the woman in the street and the man looking at her).

6. Try working with a flash

Some street photographers love using a flash, while others hate it. Whether you decide to try flash at night is up to you; on the one hand, it’ll provide extra illumination so you can use a faster shutter speed, a narrower aperture, and a lower ISO. On the other hand, it’ll give a very intense deer-in-the-headlights look, plus it can lead to confrontation (people don’t like being flashed, especially in the dark!).

Personally, I prefer to work with the constraints of natural light, and I also get uncomfortable flashing strangers in dark settings. But if you feel confident enough to shoot with flash, then by all means, try it and see what you think. It can give a fantastic look when done well.

Note that you can have the flash do all the work lighting the scene (so that the foreground area turns out lit and the background is completely dark). But you can also set your camera to slightly underexpose the scene, then use the flash to add some fill light to your main subjects in the foreground.

7. Be careful when boosting the exposure

people sitting on bench at night — 1/250s | f/2 | ISO 3200

When photographing with a high ISO, it’s important to nail the exposure; that way, you’re not forced to increase the brightness when editing, which will exaggerate unpleasant noise effects.

That being said, you’ll occasionally run into situations where you accidentally underexpose a shot. And when this happens, you’ll have no choice but to raise the exposure when editing. Just make sure you do it carefully.

Here’s my recommendation: First, ignore the noise and get the exposure and look correct. If you have to raise the exposure a significant amount, the noise will be terrible, so you’ll need to apply some noise reduction.

There are many excellent noise reduction programs, but I like Lightroom’s built-in noise reduction. If the noise is still bad after applying the noise reduction algorithm, try bringing the image into Photoshop to add a very slight Gaussian blur.

At that point, I often use Lightroom’s grain settings to add texture back into the photo. The result looks much more pleasing to the eye than extreme digital noise, and it can hide some of the technical deficiencies of underexposed images. The photo will not look perfectly sharp, but it can still be beautiful.

8. Don’t be afraid of blur and imperfection

Most street photographers aim to get their photos as sharp as possible. Sharpness certainly isn’t a bad thing – but know that a photo can still look fantastic even if it isn’t incredibly crisp.

You see, when photographing at night, you don’t need to freeze motion perfectly to get a stunning result. Personally, I hold my day images to a higher standard than my night images. My day images need to look sharp, while my night photos simply need to be interesting and look good, even if they’re a little blurry in places.

Also, at shutter speeds from around 1/60s to 1/30s, it can be fun to shoot handheld. Your subjects will turn out somewhat sharp, yet there will be a little motion, too. It’s a great way to add a sense of energy to your compositions.

9. Let your night street photos look dark

a dark shot at night — 1/250s | f/2 | ISO 3200

In my view, night shots should look like they were taken at night. They should be dark, with deep shadows and areas that are hard to see. When you look at the histogram of a night image, it should be skewed toward the far left, especially relative to your day images.

But when you point your camera toward a street scene at night, it’ll often overexpose the photo. The resulting file will look bright and you’ll be able to see plenty of detail, but the scene just won’t feel real. (You’ll also end up with blown-out streetlights and store windows.) In such cases, you’ll want to lower the exposure compensation on your camera slightly or – if you’re shooting in Manual mode – boost the shutter speed, narrow the aperture, or widen the ISO.

I do think that bright night images can look good. But dark, realistic night images are generally better, so carefully monitor the histogram and don’t be afraid to drop that exposure compensation as needed.

10. Be careful

Depending on where you live, heading out at night with a camera is not always the safest idea. Travel light, keep your equipment to a minimum, and be careful about where you go. Make sure you pay attention to your surroundings, and if you start to feel uncomfortable, head in the other direction.

If you’re not sure whether you can safely photograph on the streets at night, do some research. I’d recommend messaging veteran street shooters in the area, though you can also look at general articles and statistics covering city crime rates.

Use your best judgment regarding who to photograph, and think about bringing a friend along. Don’t stay in one place for too long, and avoid putting down your gear to change lenses. Finally, if you desire greater peace of mind, insure your gear before you head out!

Tips for night street photography: final words

Well, there you have it:

Everything you need to know for stunning night street shots.

Getting beautiful street photos at night isn’t always easy. But if you remember these tips and you practice frequently, you’re bound to get some great images!

Do you have any street night photography tips you’d like to add? Which tip do you plan to follow first? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Nighttime street photography FAQ

Is it safe to photograph streets at night?

That really depends on the location and your approach. Nighttime street photography can be relatively safe, but there’s always a risk, so it pays to be cautious and take proper precautions.

Is it worth photographing on the streets at night?

I think so! The streets can look pretty magical at night and allow for a whole new type of image.

What is the best ISO for night street photos?

I’d recommend pushing your ISO as high as it can go without causing a ridiculous level of noise. You need a high ISO to achieve a reasonably fast shutter speed, plus noise doesn’t look that bad in nighttime shots.

What camera should I use for night street photos?

Compact, lightweight cameras with larger sensors tend to work well for street shots at night.

What’s the best focal length for night street photography?

The 50mm focal length is a street photography classic, but because the streets tend to be emptier at night, it’s often easy to shoot at 35mm or wider to achieve more unusual shots.

Street Photography

The post 10 Tips for Stunning Night Street Photography (+ FAQ) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

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[Photography] 13 Fog Photography Tips for Magical Images

The post 13 Fog Photography Tips for Magical Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Louis Raphael.

Looking to capture incredible fog photos? I can help.

For most photographers, nothing compares to shooting in the fog. The mysterious shapes, the silky textures, the ethereal light – it’s a uniquely magical experience, and it’s a recipe for breathtaking photos.

But capturing stunning fog photography isn’t always easy. Fog can be unpredictable, it can cause focusing and sharpness issues, and it generally appears during camera-shake-promoting low-light conditions. To create the best fog photos – the kind that you’ll often find hanging on gallery walls – you need a well-planned approach. You should set out during the right conditions, use the optimal gear, choose the perfect settings, and more.

Fortunately, as a veteran fog photographer, I’ve developed plenty of strategies to ensure that you can capture consistently great shots in the fog. And in this article, I share my 13 best tips – so if you’re ready to start creating ethereal, mysterious images, then let’s dive right in, starting with:

1. Predict the fog before it happens

What’s the most challenging part of fog photography? Finding the fog, of course! In many areas, fog is a rare occurrence – and you, as a photographer, have no control over the weather. So you need to learn to predict fog in advance; that way, you’re in a position to capture beautiful compositions when the right conditions occur.

The simplest way to anticipate fog is to check the weather. Fog happens almost exclusively in the morning, so before you head to bed each night, take a quick look at your favorite weather app. Scroll through the hourly predictions for the next morning, and if you see the “fog” icon, choose a good location, set your alarm clock, and make sure you set off in the dark.

Another option is to wake up before the sun rises and look outside for foggy conditions (assuming, of course, that you plan to shoot near your house). The problem with this approach is that fog can burn off quickly, and by the time you’ve determined that fog is present, you may have missed the main event.

A third (and better) strategy is to learn to predict fog in advance. If you can understand the conditions that lead to fog, you can be prepared, no matter what the weather forecasters say. In particular, fog often occurs when:

The ground is wet (due to the previous day’s rain)
The temperatures are low
The wind is weak
Skies are relatively clear

Make sure you pay special attention to the weather in late fall, winter, and early spring. While fog technically can occur at any time of the year, it happens far more regularly during the cooler seasons.

Pro tip: If you have a specific shot in mind and want to check the progress of the fog, see if you can monitor it using public webcams. That way, you can see exactly how the fog looks and whether it’ll work for the image you want to capture.

2. Bring a tripod and a remote release

13 Fog Photography Tips for Magical Images

Since fog often occurs at sunrise and because fog tends to heavily diffuse the ambient light, you should definitely expect darker conditions. The darker the scene, the lower you’ll need to drop your shutter speed – so to prevent camera shake, make sure you carry both a tripod and a remote release.

The tripod will keep your camera steady at shutter speeds of 1/60s and below. (It also comes in handy if you plan to capture long-exposure fog shots, which I highly recommend; see the tips presented elsewhere in this article!) And the remote release will prevent camera shake when you press the shutter button. (It isn’t a requirement – you can use your camera’s two-second self-timer instead – but a remote release can make your shooting process faster and more precise.)

By the way, make sure you lock up the mirror before shooting (if you’re using a DSLR). And regardless of your camera model, use the electronic front-curtain shutter mode to prevent shutter-induced vibrations.

3. Use manual focus and a narrow aperture

Getting sharp shots in the fog can be tough. That’s why I encourage you to switch off your camera’s autofocus and instead rely on manual focusing, especially if you’re planning to do foggy landscape photography. Otherwise, your camera’s AF system will struggle to focus in the low-contrast environment, and you may end up deeply frustrated.

Alternatively, you can use your camera’s AF to lock on the highest-contrast portion of the scene, then twist your lens’s focus ring to fine-tune the point of focus.

I’d also encourage you to shoot with a narrow aperture. The narrower the aperture, the deeper the depth of field, which is essential if you want to maintain sharpness from the foreground to the (foggy) background.

Plus, a deeper depth of field offers more leeway in case you accidentally focus in front of or behind your subject. A good starting point is f/8, but you can always narrow the aperture farther if you’re dealing with an especially deep scene and/or need more room for error.

Note that a narrower aperture will reduce the amount of light hitting the camera sensor, so you will need to reduce the shutter speed – but as long as you’re using a tripod (see the previous tip!) you should be just fine.

4. Try a minimalistic approach

Fog does more than just add a mysterious touch to a landscape. It’s a natural tool for creating negative space, which in turn allows you to simplify the scene and place the focus on your subject. In other words, you can use the fog as a blank canvas to create beautiful minimalistic shots.

But how exactly does this work? In minimalism, the goal is to lean into the empty, negative space – but then include a clear main subject somewhere within the scene. So by surrounding your main subject with pure expanses of fog, you direct the viewer’s gaze to what really matters.

Note that negative space doesn’t just simplify photos; it adds a layer of emotion. By using fog to eliminate distracting details, you can evoke feelings of mystery, solitude, or even tranquillity. The emptiness around the subject adds a powerful atmosphere and as a result, the entire image benefits.

You don’t have to stop at simply isolating your subject. Fog gives you a chance to experiment with abstract compositions, too. By getting in close, especially in areas with heavy fog, shapes and silhouettes can become exciting elements to play with. A lone tree branch in the fog or a building surrounded by mist can result in a minimalistic geometry that makes for beautiful abstract photos.

Bottom line: When the fog comes, try a minimalistic approach. Focus on the simple yet striking elements of your scene. Let the fog guide your eye, and create compositions that you might otherwise have overlooked.

5. Get above the fog

If you want to capture breathtaking foggy landscape shots, instead of working from within the fog, see if you can rise above it. Search out various overlooks, make sure you’re in position as the sun rises, then photograph the fog as it sweeps across trees and buildings:

If you’re in the right place at the right time, you might even get to capture sunlight hitting the fog from above, which can look positively wondrous.

And if you’re serious about high-angle fog photography, consider purchasing a drone. That way, you can capture gorgeous shots whether or not you have access to a good vantage point.

One more tip: If you do work from above the fog, you’ll often run into high dynamic range scenes, which many cameras struggle to capture. Make sure you shoot a series of bracketed images; that way, if the dynamic range does prove to be too much, you can always blend several shots in post-processing for a well-exposed final result.

6. Take steps to protect your gear

Fog is more than a beautiful photographic subject; it’s also water. It can seep into your equipment and cause damage such as corrosion or mold. You might think a weather-sealed camera and lens are immune, but no weather-sealing is perfect and even the most rugged gear can be susceptible to fog-related damage.

So here’s a simple rule to follow: When photographing fog, keep your camera in your bag until you’re ready to use it. It’s all about limiting exposure to moisture.

Additionally, silica gel is something you should always have in your camera bag. You can find it online or (if you ask nicely!) acquire some from local shoe stores. By placing several packets throughout the compartments of your bag, you can absorb any moisture that your gear brings into the backpack.

Pro tip: Don’t forget to replace or regenerate the silica gel regularly, because it can get oversaturated and stop working. And by the way, keeping silica gel on hand isn’t just about fog photography; it’s also useful for photographing in tropical areas, in the rain, or even in the snow. Plus, its benefits can extend to other sensitive accessories like memory cards and batteries.

Finally, when you get home from a morning photographing fog, let your camera bag air out. Placing your gear in an airtight container with a few silica gel packets is also a wise choice.

And if you find yourself photographing in moist conditions regularly, consider investing in a dry cabinet. It may seem like a lot, but bad weather can genuinely damage equipment, and taking these precautions is how you can keep your gear operating smoothly for years to come.

7. Don’t forget about the ordinary subjects

Fog has a way of turning ordinary scenes into something spectacular. So while you can capture more traditional subjects on foggy days – such as seascapes and skyscrapers – you can also take a second look at the everyday, the boring, and the cliché.

For instance, you can get great shots simply by heading to your local park and photographing trees, cattails, and fields. Or you can take a walk through your neighborhood streets and point your camera at fog-shrouded streetlights, houses, and cars.

On a related note, you can use fog to capture original images of frequently photographed locations. Everyone photographs the Golden Gate Bridge, but the Golden Gate Bridge plus some morning fog can lead to unique (and spectacular) shots:

8. Use a neutral density filter

Neutral density filters are designed to block out light. Put a strong ND filter over your lens, and you can drop the shutter speed to 1/10s, 1s, and even several minutes without issue – even if you’re working in brighter conditions.

Why is this useful for fog photography? Well, if you can slow down your shutter speed, you can capture smooth, silky fog that looks incredible in landscape shots. Long-exposure fog appears like waves of water:

Note that ND filters come in many different strengths, and you’ll need to choose your filter based on the time of day and the lighting conditions. If you’re shooting before the sun has crested the horizon, you’ll probably need a relatively weak filter (or no filter at all). But if you’re working from above the fog and the sun is bright, you may want to bring out a 10-stop or even 15-stop filter.

Pro tip: When you’re working with an ND filter, make sure you set up your composition and focus carefully before slotting the filter onto your lens. Strong ND filters are extremely dark, so by taking such an approach, you can make sure the shot looks great while the scene is still visible in your camera viewfinder.

9. Shoot in the fall

Have you ever noticed how fog seems to go hand-in-hand with the fall season? Autumn is a magical time for fog photography, and it’s not just because fog is often generated by cooler temperatures. The combination of a foggy mood with the rich colors of fall leaves makes for genuinely breathtaking shots.

In addition to the colors, autumn offers unique subjects that pair well with the fog ambiance. Falling leaves, harvest themes, withering plants, and Halloween vibes all go great with fog, due to the sense of nostalgia, the emphasis on endings, and even the spookiness.

So when fall rolls around, make sure you take advantage of any foggy days! To get started, try photographing in forests when fall colors are at their peak and see how the combination of gray fog and colorful leaves creates visually striking images.

Additionally, think about the specific details that come alive in the fall. Dew-kissed spider webs, mist-covered fields, and solitary structures all take on a unique beauty in the fog. Allow the combination of fog and fall to guide your creative eye, and capture some wonderful – and wonderfully moody! – images.

10. Try a mix of wide-angle and telephoto fog compositions

Wide-angle lenses are most photographers’ go-to for fog shots, and understandably so: the sweeping views you can achieve with these lenses are often instantly arresting to the viewer. In other words, a wide-angle perspective can capture the grandeur of a fog-covered landscape in a way that’s both breathtaking and immersive.

But don’t let your fog photography start and end with wide-angle compositions. Telephoto lenses may not be the most obvious choice to capture a foggy forest, but trust me when I say that they offer a wonderful perspective.

In particular, telephoto focal lengths – in the 70-200mm range – are perfect for more intimate fog images. Try focusing on specific details like a lone tree standing in a foggy field or the delicate dew on a spider web. At 200mm, you can isolate the subjects among the fog and create a powerful composition that draws the viewer in.

You can also capture photos of distant landscapes using a 70-200mm lens. These longer focal lengths can compress space, making the fog appear denser and giving your landscape shots an enhanced level of moodiness:

And, above all, don’t be afraid to experiment with different focal lengths. Mix wide-angle with telephoto shots. Try working with a standard 50mm lens. Try different perspectives. Each approach will offer unique shots of the fog, resulting in a rich and diverse collection of images!

11. Experiment with different shutter speeds

While I’ve spent time discussing the benefits of long-exposure techniques for fog photography, it’s important to avoid keeping the shutter open for too long. Because while lengthy shutter speeds can certainly create stunning ethereal effects, they can also make the fog lose its shape and turn into a flat mess.

That’s why I encourage you to experiment with different shutter speeds whenever possible. If you’re confronted by a foggy scene and you have the time, test out a few different settings, then view the results on your LCD. Sometimes, you might like the slower version – but other times, the faster version will look the best!

And don’t shy away from relatively quick shutter speeds, either. A fast shutter speed – such as 1/60s or even 1/125s – will give the fog more texture, which can also look great.

12. Keep photographing until the fog is gone

Fog is an ever-changing phenomenon. One moment it’s dense and mysterious; the next, it’s lifting to reveal a spectacular landscape. So don’t pack up your camera just because the fog seems to be lifting. Keep seeking out compositions, keep shooting, and you might just be rewarded with some stunning scenes.

As the fog fades, you’ll need to keep an eye on your camera settings, as it can be easy to accidentally overexpose your shots as the sunlight starts to shine through. You can also try different camera settings to explore unique effects. Don’t be afraid to adjust your aperture or exposure as the light changes with the fog’s movements!

Patience is a real virtue in fog photography. Keep your camera at the ready and watch as the various stages of a foggy cityscape or landscape unfold. You never know when a truly once-in-a-lifetime scene will present itself, especially at sunrise or sunset as beams of light break through the foggy environment.

Pro tip: Don’t forget to check a weather app on your phone every hour or so. It can provide valuable information about the fog’s potential movements and density. The more adaptable you can be, the more you’ll maximize the potential of a foggy day!

13. Edit your fog photos for the best results

If you’re serious about creating top-notch fog photos, editing shouldn’t just be seen as a method for correcting poorly captured images; instead, view it as a way to take a great image and make it truly spectacular. Get in the habit of sorting through your images after every shoot, identifying your best files, and then spending time editing each one.

Start by experimenting with basic adjustments like contrast, exposure, and white balance. These tweaks can keep the colors and details looking natural, and they can also help balance the emptiness of the shot with the main subject to create a more compelling composition.

Local adjustments such as dodging and burning can accentuate details in the fog. They can even be used to add depth to the fog itself, and while you’ll need to build up the adjustments slowly and subtly, the results can be spectacular.

Color grading is another creative tool at your disposal. Enhance the mood of the foggy scene by playing with different color tones. The right hue can elevate the emotions and atmosphere captured in your image, so take your time to find what resonates.

And no matter what, don’t shy away from trying something new. While there are standard adjustments that are frequently effective, you can never know for certain what will really level up a fog shot.

Remember, you don’t need to be a Photoshop wizard to make these changes. Many beginner-friendly tools – like Lightroom and Luminar – can help you achieve professional results. The key is to practice, play around, and most of all, have fun with the process. Your fog photographs will only get better as you grow more comfortable with editing.

Fog photography tips: final words

Fog photography is an incredible opportunity to stretch your creative muscles, and by following the simple guidelines I’ve laid out, you’ll find yourself producing gorgeous shots that really do communicate the mood and feel of a foggy scene.

And keep in mind that you don’t need to be a professional or own the latest gear to capture great shots. All you need is your passion, a sense of adventure, and the willingness to see the world through a foggy lens.

Even if you struggle at first, don’t give up. Refer back to this article, figure out what you need to do to improve your results, and keep shooting!

What subjects do you plan to shoot in the fog? Will you do foggy landscapes? Foggy portraits? Foggy street photos? Share your thoughts (and images) in the comments below!