[Photography] Unlock Cinematic Brilliance: Elevate Your Footage with VideoProc AI Video Upscaler (Easter Special Inside)

The post Unlock Cinematic Brilliance: Elevate Your Footage with VideoProc AI Video Upscaler (Easter Special Inside) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Unlock Cinematic Brilliance: Elevate Your Footage with VideoProc AI Video Upscaler (Easter Special Inside)

Part 1: Introduction 

4K and 8K aren’t just buzzwords—they’re today’s standard for visual storytelling. But what happens when your footage doesn’t measure up? Maybe it’s an old SD clip from a documentary project, now painfully grainy on a modern screen. Or a once-in-a-lifetime wedding moment, ruined by dim lighting and noise.

These aren’t just “what-ifs”—they’re real frustrations. Fast-moving shots (think sports or wildlife) lose critical detail. Telephoto lenses introduce soft edges. Even macro videographers, who rely on capturing delicate textures, fight against lens limitations.

That’s where AI video upscaling comes in. It’s not just about adding pixels—it’s about restoring what your footage was meant to be. Whether you’re rescuing old tapes, fixing low-light shots, or sharpening macro details, tools like VideoProc Converter AI have gone from “nice-to-have” to essential.

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Part 2: Why VideoProc Converter AI? The AI Video Upscaler You Can Trust

When quality and efficiency matter, VideoProc Converter AI is the definitive solution for videographers and filmmakers. Unlike basic upscalers that simply stretch pixels, it intelligently reconstructs footage using advanced AI—preserving authenticity while achieving stunning 4K/8K clarity. Here’s why professionals trust it:

1. Cinematic-Quality Upscaling

Uses deep learning to analyze and enhance details frame-by-frame, transforming SD/HD to true 4K/8K without artificial sharpening or artifacts. Ideal for restoring old footage or meeting broadcast specs.

2. Smart Artifact Removal

Eliminates compression flaws (blockiness, banding) from streaming rips, DSLR footage, or legacy files—revealing clean, natural textures hidden beneath digital noise.

3. Dual Denoising Engine

Combats both high-ISO grain and motion blur in low-light scenes (e.g., weddings, concerts), recovering crisp details even in near-darkness.

4. Frame-Perfect Motion Handling

Ensures smooth slow-motion by compensating for dropped frames or blur in fast-action shots (sports, wildlife), avoiding the “jelly effect” of cheaper tools.

5. GPU-Optimized Speed

Renders 8K in real-time by leveraging multi-GPU power—cutting processing time by 75% compared to CPU-based alternatives.

? See it in action: Official Video Demo?

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Part 3: Easter Special: Elevate Your Toolkit Without Breaking the Bank

Good video software shouldn’t cost a fortune. VideoProc Converter AI delivers pro-level results without the Hollywood price tag.

Your  Options:

• Annual Plan ($25.95): Full access to every feature—from AI upscaling to stabilization and colorization—for a full year. Perfect if you prefer flexibility.

• Lifetime License ($45.95): A single payment unlocks permanent access. The go-to choice for studios and serious creators.

EASTER SPECIAL ALERT! ?
For a limited time, upgrade to the Lifetime License for 3 devices at just $39.95—that’s 30% off the regular multi-device price.

? Claim This Exclusive Deal Now

This isn’t just software—it’s a long-term solution for your workflow. The offer won’t last, and neither should your compromise on quality.

Bonus Tip

Need to polish the photos too? Grab Aiarty Image Enhancer (1-Year License included) to fix blurry portraits, restore old scans, and prep images for print.

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Part 4: From Grain to Glory: How to Upscale Like a Pro

VideoProc Converter AI doesn’t believe in one-size-fits-all solutions. That’s why it offers four specialized AI models, each engineered to tackle specific enhancement challenges with surgical precision:

1. Motion Enhancement Mode
Your secret weapon for fast-paced content. It analyzes movement patterns to reduce motion blur and rolling shutter artifacts – perfect for smoothing out sports plays, drone footage, or wildlife action shots.

2. Film Restoration Mode
A time machine for vintage footage. While upscaling, it preserves the authentic grain structure of 16mm/35mm film while removing scratches and noise – ideal for archivists and period piece creators.

3. Anime Optimization Mode
The animator’s ally. It applies intelligent anti-aliasing to clean up jagged edges in 2D animations and hand-drawn art without softening distinctive artistic lines.

4. Portrait Refinement Mode
The interview specialist. It enhances facial details – sharpening eyes, refining skin texture, and maintaining natural tones for documentary subjects or talking-head footage.

Your Step-by-Step Upscaling Guide:

Step 1: Download and Install VideoProc Converter AI 

Install VideoProc to your PC or Mac and run it. Select the Super Resolution icon.

Step 2: Import videos and Select Your AI Model
Drag and drop your video file directly into VideoProc’s clean interface – it supports everything from vintage. Click the “AI Model” dropdown and choose the mode that matches your content type.

Step 3: Set Output Parameters
Specify your target resolution (up to 4K), video/audio codec, and format. Once you’re satisfied with the results, click the RUN button to export.

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Part 5: Beyond Upscaling – Your Complete Video Toolkit

VideoProc Converter AI isn’t just an upscaler—it’s an all-in-one powerhouse packed with professional tools that streamline your entire post-production workflow. Here’s what else you can do:

• AI Frame Interpolation: 

Transform 24/30/60FPS footage into ultra-smooth 120-480FPS slow motion—perfect for cinematic B-roll or reviving vintage clips without expensive high-speed cameras.

• Video stabilization

 Make handheld camera footage steady, Optimize wobbles in low-light environments, Eliminate shakes in drone videos, Fix shaky GoPro footage, and stabilize jitters from moving objects.

• Colorize black-and-white photos

Turn Monochrome Photos into Colorful Images, breathe new life into black-and-white photos by adding vibrant colors, transforming old and faded heritage images into true-to-life modern pictures with restored and sharpened details.

• Universal Format Conversion

Support 370+ Input Codecs, 420+ Output Formats, convert 4K/HEVC/C-log/MP4/ XAVC-S/MKV 420+ formats for smooth playback.

• Smart Compression

Reduce file sizes by up to 90% (e.g., 2GB ? 0.17GB) without sacrificing quality—ideal for email sharing or storage optimization.

• Quick Edits & DVD Digitizing

Crop, resize, rotate, or watermark videos in seconds. Plus, rip DVDs to MP4/ISO/MP3 with 1:1 quality preservation.

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Part 6: Don’t Miss This Upgrade

VideoProc Converter AI revolutionizes your workflow with intelligent upscaling that transforms ordinary footage into extraordinary 4K/8K content – preserving authentic details through specialized AI modes while delivering lightning-fast processing. Whether you’re restoring archival footage, perfecting slow-motion sequences, or meeting broadcast standards, this all-in-one solution gives you the precision and efficiency professionals demand.

Ready to future-proof your creativity?
Claim Your Discount Now!  Get the lifetime multi-device license (3 workstations) for just $39.95 – a 30% savings! This deal won’t last forever. 

The post Unlock Cinematic Brilliance: Elevate Your Footage with VideoProc AI Video Upscaler (Easter Special Inside) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Low Light Sports Photography

The post Low Light Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

This week I got an email from a reader who wrote the following question about ‘low light sports photography’.

“I am about to move from Point and Shoot to DSLR. I will receive my Nikon D50 in two days. I want to practice by taking sports photos at my co-workers softball games. They play at night under the lights. Is there anything I should know about that type of lighting. Flash or no flash? White balance? Thanks”

Here’s how I replied:

Hi there (name withheld) – you must be excited! I still remember the days before my Canon 20D arrived!

Ok – my approach to lowlight sports photography:

It’s hard to get right. The combination of distance from your subject (makes flash less effective), the low light and the speed that sports brings to your subject make it very difficult.

Experiment – As a result the key is to experiment lots during the session. I’d say try using flash, try shots without it, try playing with different settings (see below). The great thing about digital cameras is that you can take almost unlimited shots and don’t have to worry about cost. Take loads of shots at different settings and you’ll find yourself learning as you go and honing in on what works best in the situation you’re in.

Try your Flash – I’m not sure if you have an external flash or you’ll just be relying upon the camera’s built in one but the inbuilt one will probably not be too effective unless you’re up close. Give it a go though, you might be surprised. An external flash will be more powerful but I find in most stadiums there is enough light to shoot without flash and that with many sports it’s actually either not allowed or not appropriate to use them as they can distract the competitors.

Shutter Speed – Ideally with sports you need a fast shutter speed to freeze the motion of your subjects. Unfortunately this means less light gets in so depending upon how light the field is you might need to slow it down (and then you’ll get blur). To have some control of shutter speed select your cameras shutter speed priority mode and choose the quickest speed that it will allow you to choose.

ISO – this is probably the feature you’ll want to play with the most. I don’t know if you’ve ever used film cameras and noticed much about ISO but it’s about how sensitive the film is. The higher the number the lower the light you could shoot in. The downside was that the higher the number the grainier your shots turned out. The same applies with digital. You can increase your ISO and this will enable you to shoot at faster shutter speeds. The cost is that you’ll get grainier shots (‘noise) the higher you go. Again – the key if you’re playing with a new camera is to experiment. Learn how to change ISO before you go out and shoot off different shots at different ISO

Lenses – again, not sure what lens you have or if you have more than one but another way to speed up your camera which will enable shooting in low light is to get a ‘fast’ lens( a lens with a larger aperture).

The lower the aperture that you shoot at the more light your lens allows into your camera (and the quicker the shutter speed will be) – and as we know a quick shutter speed makes capturing a moving subject easier).

One of the consequences of shooting a larger aperture is that you’ll get a shallower depth of field which can really add to a photograph but also means you really need to watch your focussing as if you happen to focus slightly off your subject they will appear very out of focus.

This might factor into future considerations for purchases. Often the kit lens that comes with a DSLR is a lower quality lens and not as fast. I’m not sure what D50’s ship with in your part of the world but most ship with something in the f/5.6 aperture range. If you are going to be taking a lot of lower light situation shots you might want to consider buying a second lens at some point that has a lower f/number. I’m not too familiar with Nikon lenses but I know in Canon you can get one that is as fast at f/1.2 (its an 85mm lens) which reportedly will let you shoot in light approaching candle light.

White Balance – shooting in low light usually means you have some sort of artificial light going on which can make your photos come out in all kinds of different shades (you might have noticed sometimes images shot in low light come out with a yellow or greenish tinge to them). ‘White Balance’ is the function in your camera that tells your camera what’s white in your shot so that it can make adjustments to get the right balance in your other colors. Read your camera’s manual on white balance and learn how to experiment with it and you can significantly change the temperature of your photos.

Image Stabilization – the other way to get a lens which will shoot in low light is to look for one with IS (image stabilization). This will let you drop your shutter speed down lower. Of course this isn’t ideal for sports shots as they move too fast, but if you are shooting still subjects in low light it’s very useful.

Sports Mode – most digital cameras come with a built in ‘sports mode’. This usually does a reasonable job of optimizing aperture, shutter speed and ISO to give you the best shot for the conditions you’re in. I find that it works best in well lit situations however and that experimenting manually with the above factors is more effective in low light.

Tripod – lastly, a tripod, monopod or some other stable surface will help a lot also as it’ll help cut down on camera shake if you have to resort to slow shutter speeds.

I’m not sure that really solves all the challenges you face in shooting sports in low light (as I say it’s tricky) but I hope it at least gives you some options to think about and experiment with.

As I say – the key I’ve found is to shoot LOTS of shots at different settings, especially in the early days of your experience with your DSLR.

Happy Shooting.

Table of contents

Sports Photography

• GENERAL
  • 8 Tips On How to Photograph Sports
  • Tips from the Sports Photography Pros to Help You Get the Money Shots
  • Indoor Sports Photography
• SETTINGS
  • How To Use Sports Mode
• LIGHTING
  • Shooting Portraits and Action Sports with Speedlites – Workshop
• GEAR
  • Lens Review Canon 300mm f4 Lens for Sports Photography
  • Aquatech CO-7 Underwater Sport Housing [REVIEW]
  • Shooting Motorsports with a Micro Four Thirds Camera
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • Tips for Photographing Football (Soccer)
  • How to Shoot High School Football
  • Play Ball! Covering Your Bases Shooting Baseball
  • How to Capture the Perfect Action Shot in Sports Photography
  • Low Light Sports Photography
  • 3 Tips for Taking Better Motorsport Photos
  • Catching the Action: Photographing Youth Sports
  • Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography
• POST-PROCESSING
  • Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

The post Low Light Sports Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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[Photography] Aiarty Image Matting: Photographer’s Secret to Streamlined and Flawless AI Background Removal

The post Aiarty Image Matting: Photographer’s Secret to Streamlined and Flawless AI Background Removal appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Ever spent hours painstakingly masking hair strands or fixing jagged edges after removing a cluttered background? What if you could skip the tedious work and let AI handle the heavy lifting—while you focus on creating stunning images?

You know backgrounds can make or break a shot. A messy room, harsh lighting, or an overcast sky can ruin an otherwise perfect portrait. But manually removing backgrounds? That’s time you could spend shooting, networking, or simply enjoying life behind the lens.

Aiarty Image Matting is designed to tackle these very challenges head-on. This isn’t just another “magic wand” tool. It’s an AI-powered background remover. No more wrestling with Photoshop’s Quick Selection Tool or drawing manual trimaps. Aiarty Image Matting delivers precision on tricky details (think frizzy hair, lace veils, or water droplets) and speed for batch-editing thousands of images—all with one-click simplicity.

Special Offer: Ready to ditch the tedious background removal grind? Aiarty Image Matting offers a 1-Year License Giveaway so you can test its power firsthand. For photographers ready to level up their workflow, unlock unlimited access at an unprecedented low price. Or you can directly grab our AiMeida package here!

Try Aiarty Image Matting Risk-Free and Claim Your Free Trial Now!

Smart Tools for Specific Photography Needs

Let’s face it: not all background removal tools are created equal. Aiarty’s AI is built to tackle the unique challenges photographers face daily. Here’s how it simplifies your workflow while delivering pro-level results.

Flawless Edges, Even on Tricky Details

Struggling with frizzy hair, lace veils, or splashing water? With the unique Alpha Matting, Aiarty handles semi-transparent edges and fine details effortlessly. No more jagged halos or lost textures—just clean, natural blends that look like you spent hours masking (but you didn’t).

One-Click Simplicity, Pro-Level Results

Why waste time on complicated tools? Aiarty offers four models trained for different image types. Import your image, choose a model, and let Aiarty work its magic. It’s that easy, making advanced techniques accessible to photographers of all skill levels.

Refine with Control, Not Complexity

Need a quick tweak? Aiarty’s smart editing brush tools let you refine edges or restore details in seconds. Think of it as a digital eraser—but one that actually understands your subject. In addition to the precise AI detection, you can use Manual Selection to adjust the area you want to keep.

Batch Process Thousands in Minutes

Shooting a wedding or product catalog? Aiarty edits loads of images at once, so you can focus on what matters: capturing moments, not clicking buttons. Edit 3,000+ wedding or product photos in one go. Ideal for high-volume projects. It’s faster than brewing your morning coffee.

How to Use Aiarty Image Matting

Editing doesn’t have to be a headache. With Aiarty Image Matting, you can go from raw image to polished masterpiece in just a few simple steps. Here’s how it works:

Step 1: Import Your Image

Drag and drop your photo into Aiarty Image Matting—whether it’s a single portrait or a folder of 3,000 product shots. The software supports raw and high-resolution files, so your 4K edits stay crisp and professional.

Step 2: Choose Your AI Model

Aiarty offers four specialized AI models to match your subject:

• AlphaStandard V2: For hair, lace, and semi-transparent edges.
• EdgeClear V2: For sharp, detailed subjects like jewelry or wildlife.
• AlphaEdge V2: For mixed edges needing both softness and clarity.
• SolidMat V2: For solid objects like furniture or gadgets.

Select the model that fits your needs, and then click Start to launch AI reference.

Step 3: Refine (If Needed)

Not quite perfect? Use Aiarty’s smart brushes to tweak edges or restore details:

• Eraser Tool: Fix stray hairs or halos.
• Brush Tool: Enhance edges or add softness.
• Dodge/Burn Tools: Adjust lighting for seamless blending.

Step 4: Export and Publish

Once your edit is flawless, export the image as a PNG with transparency or layer it into a new background in the software. Aiarty’s high-quality output ensures your work looks professional, whether it’s for a client portfolio, social media post, or e-commerce listing.

Where Aiarty Shines in Real-World Photography

Aiarty Image Matting isn’t just a tool—it’s a game-changer for photographers across genres. Whether you’re shooting portraits, products, or wildlife, Aiarty solves real-world challenges and unlocks creative possibilities. Here’s how it transforms your workflow.

For Personal Projects & Hobbies

For portrait photographers, delivering studio-quality headshots is now easier than ever. Cluttered backgrounds can ruin an otherwise perfect shot. With Aiarty Image Matting, you can replace messy backdrops with clean, neutral tones or custom designs in seconds. It excels at handling tricky details like frizzy hair, flyaways, or translucent fabrics, ensuring your subject blends naturally into the new scene.

For Professional Creatives

For travel and wildlife photographers, Aiarty Image Matting helps you isolate birds, animals, or landmarks from cluttered foliage or crowds. You can even replace dull skies with vibrant sunsets for a dramatic finish.

Wedding photographers know that every detail matters. From lace veils to tulle skirts, Aiarty ensures flawless edits for semi-transparent fabrics and flowing hair. Batch-process hundreds of ceremony and reception photos in minutes, and create dreamy composites by layering subjects into new scenes.

For E-commerce & Business

If you are a product photographer or a business owner, Aiarty Image Matting is your secret weapon for e-commerce success. Marketplaces like Amazon demand pure white backgrounds, and manually editing hundreds of product shots can be a nightmare. Aiarty delivers crisp, razor-sharp edges for gadgets, jewelry, or furniture, even under challenging lighting. Plus, its batch processing feature lets you edit 3,000+ images in one go. Swap uneven studio backdrops for consistent and client-ready results.

Why Photographers Trust Aiarty’s Tech

Aiarty Image Matting is designed to handle the toughest editing challenges. Here’s why photographers rely on Aiarty for precision, speed, and creative freedom.

Four AI Models for Every Editing Scenario

Aiarty doesn’t rely on a one-size-fits-all approach. Instead, it offers four specialized AI models, each optimized for different types of images.

• AlphaStandard: Perfect for semi-transparent edges like hair, lace, or water. It preserves soft transitions and delicate textures, making it ideal for wedding photographers or portrait artists.
• EdgeClear: Tackles sharp, detailed subjects like jewelry, wildlife, or furniture. It enhances edge clarity while retaining fine details, so your edits look crisp and professional.
• AlphaEdge: Prioritizes edge sharpness over smooth transparency variations. Balances softness and sharpness for mixed-edge subjects, like flowing dresses with intricate lace. It’s the go-to model for fashion photographers or creatives working with layered textures.
• SolidMat: Handles complex image structures for better matting accuracy and detail preservation. Delivers clean, precise cuts for solid objects like gadgets, shoes, or buildings. It’s a lifesaver for product photographers or real estate professionals.

Matting vs. Segmentation

Traditional background removal tools often leave harsh, jagged edges—especially around tricky details like hair, glass, or water. Aiarty Image Matting uses alpha matting, a sophisticated technique that blends edges like a soft brush, not scissors. This means your subjects transition seamlessly into new backgrounds, with no unnatural halos or lost details.

How Aiarty Stacks Up Against Traditional Tools

When it comes to background removal, not all tools are created equal. Here’s how Aiarty compares to traditional options or online background removers across key areas.

Ease of Use: Compared to the steep learning curve of traditional image editors, Aiarty is designed for photographers of all skill levels. No advanced editing knowledge required—just import, click, and refine.

Performance: Photoshop is powerful but time-consuming. Online tools often struggle with accuracy, especially with semi-transparent or fine details. Aiarty Image Matting handles complex edges (hair, glass, water) with AI-powered precision. Delivers natural blends and sharp details in seconds.

Upscaling Capabilities: Aiarty Image Matting comes with an AI Enhance feature to enhance image quality and resolution. With three built-in AI models, you can enhance the original image quality to extreme detail and upscale the resolution by up to 2X. This is a bonus feature you can’t find in most background removers.

Batch Processing: Aiarty Image Matting can edit thousands of images at a faster speed in one go—perfect for weddings, events, or e-commerce catalogs.

Elevate Your Photography with Aiarty

You didn’t become a photographer to spend hours hunched over a computer, wrestling with clunky tools. You became a photographer to create—to capture moments, tell stories, and deliver images that leave clients speechless.

Aiarty Image Matting is here to help you do just that. With its AI-powered precision, batch processing speed, and photographer-first design, it’s more than a tool—it’s your new creative partner. Whether you’re editing hair-flyaway portraits, polishing product catalogs, or crafting dreamy wedding albums, Aiarty handles the tedious work so you can focus on what matters: your art.

Why Wait? Join our Free License Giveaway and start your free trial from today. Your next masterpiece is just a click away.

The post Aiarty Image Matting: Photographer’s Secret to Streamlined and Flawless AI Background Removal appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] World Backup Day 2025

The post World Backup Day 2025 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

A lesser known celebration for a day that, as a photographer / content creator / filmmaker / regular person that takes photos of their kids on their phone.. (everyone!) SHOULD be at the top of your calendar! World Backup Day! – March 31st!

March 31st each year, we all encourage each other to BACKUP! In my case it’s to make sure my directly attached external drive is backed up to my NAS (I’ve been using Synology NAS for years, and that’s how we arrived here!) and, I also use it to remind my wife to do her once-a-year backup of her ageing laptop! (trust me, I try…)

This year, we’ve joined forces with the team at Synology to award one lucky person with a FANTASTIC 4-Bay Synology NAS and matching Synology Drives to make sure that they’re BACKED UP properly going forward!

All you need to do to enter is to head over to our Instagram post linked below…

• Follow Us
• Follow Synology
• Like the post
• Tag a friend in the comments that REALLY needs to back up!

Losing your photo archive because you stored it all on your laptop and some clumsy mate spilled his coffee in your keyboard? The dog chewed it? Aliens… The list goes on! But with it being SO easy to back up these days, what’s stopping you?

Here’s an article I did on using one of the small Synology TWO BAY NAS to manage your photo archives.

29% of data loss is caused by accidents! Don’t be part of the 29%, click here, enter now.

Terms & Conditions for Instagram Giveaway

Eligibility: Open to legal residents of Australia aged 18 and over. No purchase necessary.

Entry Period: Starts March 28, 2025 and ends on April 2nd at 12:59 PM [Melbourne zone].

How to Enter: Follow @digitalps and @synology.official on Instagram, like the giveaway post, and comment as per instructions.

Winner Selection: A random draw will take place on April 2nd at 1:00 PM

Prize: One Synology 4-Bay NAS with matching hard disk drives. Prize is non-transferable, no cash alternative.

Winner Announcement: The winner will be announced on @digitalps Instagram and contacted via DM. The winner must respond within 72 hours to claim the prize. We will NOT message you from any other account or DM you from any other account – anyone else claiming you’ve won is a scammer and should be… well, use your imagination, I don’t like scammers…

Shipping & Delivery: The prize will be shipped to the winner at no cost within Australia. We are not responsible for any customs fees or lost packages.

Disqualification: We reserve the right to disqualify entries that do not follow the rules or are deemed fraudulent.

Not Affiliated with Instagram: This giveaway is not sponsored, endorsed, or administered by Instagram.

The post World Backup Day 2025 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Memory cards are all the same, right?

The post Memory cards are all the same, right? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Memory cards are all the same, right?

Well, yes and no. I believe that if you’re simply a hobbyist and you’re not too worried about ever losing data on a card then it’s not going to make much difference if you get a pricey card or a cheap card. Though I would also suggest if you always get cheap cards, get small ones that don’t store too much data, that way, when, not if they fail, you don’t lose too many photos or videos.

There is an old saying, that goes “there are too kinds of digital storage, those that have failed and those that haven’t failed yet”. Cheaper and more expensive cards can both fail, they are both physical manufactured things. But the difference I have often found is that with some products that cost more, you’re not just paying for how they perform but also how the company that makes them performs when something goes wrong.

I have been exceptionally luck over the years, that I haven’t had more than 2-3 horror stories of hard drives or memory cards failing on me. Though most of the times when they have failed it hasn’t been a huge horror story as I am fanatical about backup, but that is for another article. 

I got my first set of ProGrade memory cards back in 2020. I was sent them for long term review and I think 5 years later defiantly counts as long term. I got sent 1x V90 128gig and 1x V90 256gig and have been using them solidly for 4 or so years since. Not only that, but those two worked so well for me that I also bought 3 more of the 256gig cards.

I’ve have used them on countless projects for my production company as well as my Youtube channel over these last few years, they have captured probably thousands of hours of 4K and 6K high bitrate content, in some pretty challenging conditions and never missed a beat. 

I’ve used them in cameras ranging from Sony, Panasonic, Canon and Nikon.

Even though I’ve never really needed to make use of ProGrade’s support, they have some pretty useful features. They have a free app you can download for Mac or Windows called PreFresh Pro which you can use to check your cards health. After all my cards have been though they all still show as 99.9% healthy. The app suggests that if you card gets down by 10% then you should look at replacing it as soon as possible.

You can also “Sanitise” your cards with the ReFresh app with will wipe then clean, but also optimise them for best speed and use. Though I’ve never really noticed the cards having any issues with speed on read or write. Please note that you do need to use a ProGrade card reader in order for the app to recognise your cards and work with them. Also even though the software is free, you do need to “order it” via their website. I am assuming they do this to limit the bandwidth of people downloading it over and over again from them website.

ProGrade also sell a $49 USD app called Recovery Pro for recovering lost data from a card. Of course this will depend on what has gone wrong with the card if you can get anything off it or not. So your mileage will vary, but it’s nice that they sell an option for this. Also note the purchase price a one year licence only, but they do have a free valuation copy you can use to scan your files and see if they app thinks it can recovery anything you can use before you buy.

Thankfully, I’ve never had the need for that app and fingers crossed I never will.

In conclusion, even though I generally hesitate to ever outright recommending something, I have no hesitation outright recommending the ProGrade SD cards. I’ve not used any of their other cards, but from the last 5 years of my experience with these cards, they work every time and have never given me any issues. Which is pretty much all you want from a memory card, isn’t it?

This article in from our friend and Filmmaker, Lee Herbet – Find out more about Lee here

The post Memory cards are all the same, right? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide)

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

This article was updated in January 2025 with contributions from Simon Ringsmuth, Rick Ohnsman, Steve Gandy, and Jaymes Dempsey.

What is Program mode on your camera, and when should you use it?

Program mode is one of those “odd one out” camera settings – something that most folks never try because they simply don’t understand how it can help their photography.

Yet once you get the hang of it, Program mode is actually pretty darn useful. That’s why, in this article, I aim to share everything you need to know about this mode, including:

• What it actually is
• How it works
• How to use it for great results

So if you’re ready to become a Program mode master, then let’s get started.

What is Program mode?

The camera mode dial operates on something of a continuum. On one end, you have Manual mode, which gives you complete control over the three elements of exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. On the other end, you have Auto mode, which gives you almost no control over exposure.

As you can see in the diagram above, other modes exist in the middle of the spectrum. These modes – Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Program mode – give you some degree of control, but your camera does significant work, as well. For instance, Aperture Priority lets you control the aperture and ISO while the camera determines the proper shutter speed for a good exposure.

So what about Program mode? What does it do?

Program mode exists somewhere between Aperture/Shutter Priority and Auto mode, and it works like this:

You set the ISO, while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed.

(Remember: The ISO refers to the sensitivity of your camera sensor, the aperture refers to the lens diaphragm size, and the shutter speed refers to the length of time the shutter captures light.)

Program mode also gives you control over other camera features, such as exposure compensation, but I’ll discuss that in a later section. For now, just remember that Program mode gives you ISO control, but leaves the aperture and shutter speed up to your camera.

(In fact, Program mode is sometimes referred to as “ISO Priority.”)

When is Program mode useful?

While Program mode isn’t nearly as popular as Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority, it can make a big difference to your photography – you just have to know when to use it.

In essence, Program mode works best when you care about the ISO, but you don’t care about the shutter speed and the aperture. This is either because you know that your camera will automatically give sufficient shutter speed and aperture values or because these settings won’t affect the final result in a meaningful way.

So if you’re shooting outdoors and you want to produce minimal noise in your photos, you might select Program mode, dial in a low ISO, and then let your camera do the rest.

I shot this using Program mode, which let me tweak my exposure settings on the fly.

Or if you’re photographing under powerful artificial lights, you might tell your camera to keep the ISO low, then trust it to nail the remaining exposure variables.

Bottom line:

If all you want to do is adjust the ISO, you’re set. Put your camera in Program mode, change the ISO, and focus on composing and framing your shots rather than thinking about the aperture, shutter speed, and overall exposure.

But that’s not Program mode’s only use. You see, Program mode is also a great transition mode. If you’re aiming to improve your photography skills but you’re still stuck on Auto mode, you might try leveling up to Program mode; you can then use it as a stepping stone to Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and beyond.

How to shoot in Program mode

Back in the 35mm film days, you would often choose the film you used based on the shooting conditions you planned to work in.

ISO (or before that, ASA or DIN) was a function of the film. ASA speeds of common film types might be 25, 64, 125, 200, 400, and maybe up to 800. You could go a little higher with special processing. The rub was that, whatever film type you chose, you worked with the same ASA for the entire roll (be it 12, 24, or 36 exposures).

With film, you had to stick with the same ISO (ASA) for the entire roll. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Working with Program mode can be a little like shooting film – in that the first thing you do is pick your ISO setting.

This could be ISO 100 for good outdoor light, ISO 200 or 400 for lower lighting conditions, and ISO 800 or higher for dim conditions (or perhaps for when you will be shooting action and need to use fast shutter speeds).

Some photographers call Program mode “ISO Priority,” because once you dial in the ISO, it will remain set, even as the shutter speed and aperture change. (Of course, the big difference from film is that you can change the ISO from shot to shot if you so choose).

So you start by setting your ISO.

Then, unless you have a special reason not to, I suggest you use the averaging metering modes: Evaluative on Canon, Matrix on Nikon. These will consider the entire image and calculate the exposure.

If your camera is set to Program mode, you will now see that it has selected both aperture and shutter speed settings. Depending on the available light, these will usually be toward the middle of the settings range – perhaps something like 1/125s and f/5.6. You may want to change these, and we’ll get into that in a minute, but if not, you’re good to go. Nail the focus and take the shot.

You can shoot all day like this, with your camera pretty much working as a point-and-shoot machine. As a beginner, rather than puzzle over what your settings should be for each shot, you can use Program mode to concentrate on more important things – chiefly composition – and let the camera figure out the exposure. Take away the clutch and the gearshift, and driving is so much easier, right?

Program mode: beyond the basics

At this point, you should be comfortable with the Program mode basics: You set the ISO, and your camera does the rest.

But if you dig a little deeper, you’ll find more useful features to unlock. Many of these can help you get the shot you want, instead of the shot your camera thinks you want. In this way, Program mode is like the late-night infomercial version of Auto; it handles all the nitty-gritty complicated stuff for you, but ends with a “Wait, there’s more!”

First, Program mode allows you to use exposure compensation to correct any exposure mistakes. By adjusting the exposure compensation in one direction, you can force your camera to take brighter images, and by adjusting it in the other direction, you’ll get the reverse.

Say you take a photo of snow and it turns out too dark. With a little exposure compensation, you can bring back the snow’s natural brightness (note that you can’t do that in Auto mode).

And you can adjust plenty of other camera settings while in Program mode, including white balance, metering mode (full/center/spot), point of focus, and whether your camera should use its flash.

(Contrast this with Auto mode, and you should start to see the usefulness of the humble little “P” marker on your camera’s mode dial.)

Of course, Program mode isn’t always the way to go. Sometimes, you’ll want to independently adjust your shutter speed or your aperture, in which case one of the Priority options, or even Manual mode, is the right choice.

But when ISO is all that matters, give Program mode a try.

Shooting in Program mode gave me a good overall exposure, but I didn’t like how the microphone was so dark.

I switched to spot metering, retook the shot, and got what I wanted. Program allows for this flexibility, whereas Auto does not!

Program Shift and some Program mode examples

You now know that Program mode allows you to set the ISO while your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed – but what if you want a narrower aperture and don’t mind lengthening the shutter speed? Conversely, what if you want a faster shutter speed and don’t mind widening the aperture?

That’s where Program Shift comes into play. This option lets you adjust the aperture and the shutter speed together – so the exposure doesn’t change, but the specific settings allowing you to achieve the exposure do.

The specifics for how to use Program Shift depend on your camera model, but I’d like to walk you through an example scenario where it can help you achieve top-notch results.

1. It’s an overcast day, so you set the ISO to 800.
2. Your camera is in Program mode, and it suggests an exposure.
3. You decide you want a deeper depth of field, so you use Program Shift to set the aperture to f/22.
4. Your settings are now ISO 800, 1/20s, and f/22. (Note that you’ll need to be on a tripod if you’re using a 1/20s shutter speed.)
5. You focus, then take the shot.

Image by Rick Ohnsman

You take a look and decide it might be better to isolate the foreground leaves with a shallow depth of field. Still in Program mode, you use Program Shift to put the aperture at f/4. Your camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to 1/640s to maintain proper exposure. You take another shot.

Image by Rick Ohnsman

Easy, huh? The ISO stayed locked in at 800, and as you adjusted the aperture, the shutter speed adjusted itself.

Suppose now you want to see the effect of shutter speed on a moving object. Still in Program mode, you leave the ISO at 800. To freeze the droplets of a fountain, you use Program Shift to set a 1/1600s shutter speed. You take the shot.

Note how the top shot, taken at 1/50s, has more blurred water drops; also note how the tree is sharper at f/22. The bottom image, taken at 1/1600s, displays frozen water – but at f/4, the depth of field is smaller. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Now, what if you want to get a little motion blur on those drops? Use Program Shift to set a slower shutter speed of 1/50s. The aperture automatically adjusts.

(Exposure compensation is also an option should you need to make your images a little lighter or darker.)

Then make the leap

Program mode can help you get good exposures. And if you pay attention to the settings your camera chooses, you’ll begin to understand the relationship between aperture, depth of field, shutter speed, and motion capture. Program mode can also give you a good jumping-off point to work with a mode such as Aperture Priority.

Say that after making a shot in Program mode, you see the camera chose f/11 as the aperture, and you like the amount of depth of field that resulted. You can then switch over to Aperture Priority mode (Av on Canon, A on Nikon), dial in an f/11 aperture, and start shooting. The camera will stay locked at f/11 while adjusting the shutter speed for various lighting conditions.

The same goes for shutter speed. If your Program mode shot shows a nice amount of motion blur at 1/5s and you want to make subsequent images with that amount of blur, switch to Shutter Priority mode (Tv on Canon, S on Nikon), dial in 1/5s, and shoot away.

The camera will stay locked on the shutter speed you chose and alter the aperture as needed.

In the left photo, the focus is on the tree trunk at the right edge. At f/22, there’s a good amount of depth of field. In Program mode, roll the dial to take the f-stop to f/4 for less depth of field. The camera automatically compensates, putting the shutter speed at 1/160s. The exposure stays identical. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Back to the safe spot

If you play around enough with your settings, you may eventually mess things up so that you create a bad exposure or become totally confused about why things are not working for you. That’s when Program mode comes to the rescue.

These were some of the first images I made when I got my Canon 10D years ago. Program mode was all I knew, but it got the job done. Don’t think you have to immediately learn to shoot in Manual mode to make nice shots. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Put the camera in Program mode, put the ISO to a setting appropriate for your lighting situation (ISO 200 might be a good starting point), and it’ll be like hitting the reset button: you’ll be back to letting the camera choose exposure settings.

It’s easy to explore the relationship between aperture and depth of field while in Program mode. This series starts at f/4 on the left, before a roll of the dial (with Program Shift) took the aperture to f/8 (middle), and then to f/22 on the right. The camera did all the exposure calculations. As simple as one, two, three! (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Regardless of what mode I choose to shoot in, even Manual, I always put the dial back to Program mode before turning off the camera and putting it back in my bag. Then, if that once-in-a-lifetime shot presents itself and I must grab the camera, quickly power up, and shoot, I can be assured I will get a reasonably well-exposed shot.

I hope you will not take this article to mean you shouldn’t learn to shoot in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode, because it’s true that a great number of professionals use these settings. But if you are new to photography and are confronted with more information than you can immediately absorb, working in Program mode might just be the helping hand you need.

Working in Program mode will free you to concentrate on composition while letting the camera figure out exposure. (Image by Rick Ohnsman)

Concentrate first on learning good composition. And make sure your images are well-focused, because blurry shots are impossible to fix in editing.

For now, let your camera help you with exposure until you begin to wrap your head around all there is to know. Even if you are a more experienced photographer, you might occasionally find that turning the mode dial and working in Program mode is the right choice for a given situation.

Program mode: final words

Program mode is a handy little option, even if it’s often eclipsed by Manual, Aperture Priority, and Shutter Priority.

So the next time you don’t want to give up all control over your camera but also don’t want to do everything yourself, consider Program mode. You might ask yourself, “Do I need to adjust the aperture? And do I need to adjust the shutter speed?”

If the answer is “No,” then Program mode is probably your best option!

Now over to you:

Do you use Program mode? Do you plan to start using it? Why or why not? What do you think of it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Program Mode: Everything You Need to Know (Ultimate Guide) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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