[Photography] 15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration When You Feel Stuck

The post 15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration When You Feel Stuck appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

Photography is an incredible hobby, but it can also be draining, difficult, and – at times – a real slog. If you’re feeling burnt out, you may need to take a break, or you might just require a bit of extra inspiration.

In this article, I share my top 15 favorite methods to gain photographic inspiration when you’re in a creative rut. Not every approach will work for every photographer, but I encourage you to read through the list and try a few techniques that appeal to you. By the time you’re done, with a little luck, you’ll be excited to head out with your camera and take photos once again.

Let’s get started!

1. Draw up a plan for your success

As with any other professional endeavor, documenting your photography goals is a great idea. In fact, just voicing and acknowledging what is in your head is the first step toward achieving success!

So think about what you want to do photographically, and draw up a list. If you’re just starting out, limit yourself to a couple of reasonable goals (though if you’re a more experienced photographer, feel free to push yourself here – really think about what you want to achieve and the kind of photos you’d like to take over the next year or two).

Maybe you want to get comfortable shooting in Manual mode, or perhaps you want to understand how to successfully use off-camera flash. Maybe you want to get better at composition, or perhaps you want to track moving subjects effectively.

But don’t just make a list and call it a day; also spend some time determining how you’ll achieve your goals. Will you read dPS articles? Check out books on photography from the library? Take several workshops? Watch some online courses? Spend an hour each day practicing with your camera?

No matter the goal, it’s easier to achieve when you have an actionable plan to help you get there. And if you want to boost your chances of following through, take this a step further by actually writing down the steps needed to achieve the results you’re after!

2. Look at work from your favorite photographers

Taking a scroll through other photographers’ portfolios can be wildly helpful when dealing with a creative rut! Platforms like Instagram, 500px, Flickr, and Facebook are bursting with amazing images, and by spending some time looking at the shots that you love, you can discover techniques and approaches to incorporate into your own shots.

Now, I’m not saying you should outright copy what others are doing. It’s about allowing yourself to learn from the works that resonate with you. So when a particular image grabs you, take a moment and ask yourself: What is it about the photograph that’s so appealing? Is it the composition, the color grading, the subject?

And once you’ve done your deep dive, don’t just close the tab and move on with your day. Take those elements that you found so inspiring and experiment with them during your next shoot!

3. Read about photography’s history

Think history is a snore-fest? Think again! Diving into the history of photography is actually wildly exciting. From the earliest daguerreotypes to the advent of digital photography, each era came with a novel way of capturing the world, and understanding this evolution can spark your imagination and give you a fresh perspective on what’s possible and what photography is all about.

You might discover, for instance, that techniques or styles you consider groundbreaking today were actually pioneered decades ago. Ever heard of “Pictorialism”? This early 20th-century movement focused on elevating photography to an art form by playing with soft focus and painterly lighting – techniques that are making a comeback in some modern styles.

Even more fascinating is how technological constraints shaped artistic expression. Back in the days of film, photographers had to be incredibly thoughtful about each shot, as film was costly and limited. This “limitation” led to some of the most iconic images we know today. Imagine bringing that level of consideration into your work now.

And what about the social and cultural impact? Photography has been a crucial tool for documentation, activism, and storytelling. Recognizing this wider context can deepen your understanding of why you shoot and what you aim to convey, influencing your work in powerful ways.

4. Work on personal projects

While it’s great to be busy and earn a living doing what you love, it can also start to drain your creative spirit. So if you’re a professional shooter, don’t just work on your money-making projects; give yourself permission to take on a passion project (i.e., a personal project) or two.

I captured this image as part of a personal exercise that focused on finding monochromatic patterns and frames.

See this project as a way for you to fall back in love with photography without any pressure or expectations. For instance, you might:

• Photograph sunrises
• Create a portfolio of abstract nature scenes
• Capture your local sports team
• Document your favorite forest

Note that your personal project can last for a few weeks, or it can take years. Either is fine, but do make sure the topic is near and dear to your heart; otherwise, you may find yourself getting very bored very quickly, which is the opposite of what you want.

Another image as part of my monochrome project.

Also, you don’t need to be a professional photographer to try out this strategy for photographic inspiration. Even if you’re a hobbyist, pursuing a dedicated project can be a great way to regain your motivation.

One more thing: Once you pick a project, make sure you give it the time it deserves (even if you’re busy with other work). If you put in real effort, you’re more likely to get real rewards!

5. Check out classic photo books

Before the internet, there were photo books. These timeless compilations showcase the work of masters whose contributions have stood the test of time. Names like Walker Evans, Edward Weston, Paul Strand, and Minor White might not mean much to you now, but crack open one of their books, and you’re in for an enlightening experience.

What sets these classics apart? It’s not just the age of the photographs; it’s the enduring relevance of their compositions, techniques, and subjects. Studying these works offers you a chance to break out of the current trends and standards, challenging you to think differently about your own shots.

For instance, have you ever noticed how modern photography often leans heavily on vivid colors? Some of the greats, like Ansel Adams, worked primarily in black and white. Exploring their grayscale worlds can open your eyes to the nuances of light and shadow, giving you a whole new toolkit for your own work.

And don’t just skim through these books. Really look at each photograph. Think about the choices the photographer made. How did they use light? What’s in focus, and why? This deeper engagement can be a source of invaluable inspiration.

So next time you’re in a creative rut, take a detour to your local bookstore or library and head to the photography section. You’ll find a world of inspiration that predates hashtags and filters!

6. Go shoot without an agenda

Working with a purpose isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but when you have certain types of images in mind, it’s easy to develop expectations, and these can lead to pressure, stress, and frustration.

That’s why I highly recommend spending some time photographing without an agenda. Just pick up a camera – whether it’s a DSLR, mirrorless model, or even your smartphone – and photograph anything. It can be the interior of your home, your backyard, your neighborhood, or the nearest city. Just pick something convenient and do some shooting.

You don’t even need to put much thought into it. Sometimes, it’s just the act of pressing the shutter that can provide the right amount of stress release. And if it helps, feel free to delete the images at the end. The whole point is to just enjoy the act of photography without the need to create a perfect frame.

7. Photograph with a tripod

For many photographers, tripods are an annoyance – often relegated to the back of the closet or never purchased in the first place. But hear me out, because this unassuming piece of equipment can be a great way to revitalize your creative energy.

You see, when you use a tripod, you’re forced to slow down and pay attention to details that you might otherwise overlook in the quest for that next stunning shot. Setting up a tripod is slow, deliberate work – which means you have the time to adjust every parameter carefully, to think about the best focal length, to fine-tune your composition. In a way, working with a tripod gives you the chance to reconnect with the very act of photographing.

Even if you like to do fast-paced photography – on the streets or of wildlife, for instance – a tripod can help direct your focus. You’ll pay more attention to timing, to the movement of your subjects, to the changing light conditions.

One note, however: Make sure you use a tripod that fits your needs. If you’re into travel photography, you might go for something lightweight yet sturdy. If you shoot in rugged conditions, you’ll want a tripod that can stand its ground. While tripods can be perfect for regaining inspiration, it’s important that you don’t needlessly restrict yourself by picking the wrong model.

8. Do something creative (that’s not photography)

Photographic inspiration can be found in a variety of ways – and sometimes, the best inspiration comes from non-photographic activities. That’s why I encourage you to try something that’s creative, but that’s not artistic.

For instance, you might cook a meal from scratch, do some knitting, enjoy gardening in your backyard, write a story, do some journaling, or even just go for a walk outside and study the different leaf patterns you see.

Of course, there’s nothing wrong with working on an alternative artistic pursuit, such as painting or drawing (and this can be an effective way to gain new inspiration, too). But if you’re feeling burnt out, distancing yourself from all things artistic might be a good idea.

Whatever you choose, let it flow without structure or planning. Use it as a means to release the creative energy building up inside. Be kind to yourself, and just give yourself some time to take a break from photography; the inspiration will return in time.

9. Try a different photography genre

If you’ve been spending months – or years – capturing the same subject over and over again, why not jump ship? I don’t mean that you should make a permanent change, of course, but a little genre-hopping can do wonders for your creativity. If you’re a die-hard portrait photographer, consider shooting landscapes or architecture for a while. If street photography is your jam, try some macro or cityscapes.

Switching genres is often like learning a new language. Initially, it feels uncomfortable, but as you get the hang of it, you start to see patterns and gain new insights into how language works. For instance, if you move from portraits to landscapes, you may begin to appreciate the subtleties of natural light in a new way. If you transition from street scenes to macro shots, you may find yourself engrossed in the minute details of the world.

And here’s the kicker: The skills and insights you pick up in one genre can often be transferred back to your primary area of interest. Those natural lighting techniques might inspire a unique headshot in your next portrait session. Or the way you frame a cityscape could add a new layer to your street photography.

So don’t confine yourself to a single box. Break free, try something new, and see if you can’t reignite that passion!

10. Complete a self-challenge

This approach is similar to the personal project technique I shared above, except it’s a lot more constrained. The idea is to set yourself specific rules, and then use them to direct your shooting. You can always invent your own self-challenge, though here are a few popular ones:

• Take a self-portrait every day
• Capture a set of photos that convey the essence of each week (for a whole year)
• Photograph a single color for a week
• Photograph your daily meals
• Take one shot a day for a month
• Capture every sunrise and sunset for a month

Whatever self-challenge you choose, document and work on it. Perhaps even join or start a group online where others can participate with you. (As I discuss below, working with other photographers can motivate you further and help keep the inspiration alive!)

One tip: If you start a self-challenge and you struggle from the get-go, that might be a sign you should try something else. There’s nothing wrong with pushing yourself, but because challenges are nearly always tough to complete, it’s important that you genuinely like what you’re doing.

11. Spend time photographing with others

Photography can often feel like a solo journey, but it doesn’t have to be. Photo walks and photography meetups are very popular, and they’re a great place to talk with others who are passionate about the same kind of thing! Plus, photo walks and meetups are more than social events; they’re a great place to develop skills and find photographic inspiration. Working side by side with other photographers can offer fresh perspectives that break you out of your creative rut.

You see, there’s a unique energy that appears when photographers gather. You’ll find people who share your particular genre interests, and you’ll find people who don’t. This medley of viewpoints can be as inspiring as any world-class photo book or historic image.

And we shouldn’t forget the power of immediate feedback. Imagine taking a shot and then instantly sharing your excitement or doubts with someone who gets it, someone who speaks the nuanced language of apertures, compositions, and light. It’s the kind of conversation that can spark new ideas and help you see the world – and your craft – differently.

And if big meetups aren’t your thing? No worries. Even just having a buddy to shoot with on weekends can offer a regular dose of inspiration. You can bounce ideas off each other, critique each other’s work in real time, and collectively aim for better shots.

12. Go on a photography trip

We’ve all been there, shooting the same old cityscapes or meandering through familiar woods, feeling like we’re just recycling our past work. So why not venture far afield? A photography trip can breathe new life into your portfolio and, most importantly, your inspiration.

Suppose you’re a landscape photographer who’s been capturing forests for years. How about heading up north to capture the snowy tundra? The shift from green and brown to stunning whites and icy blues could be the jolt your creativity needs. Or maybe you’re a street photographer, routinely capturing the hustle of New York City. Consider making your way to smaller, quainter coastal towns.

You don’t have to cross oceans for this (although if you can, go for it!). Even a neighboring town, a nearby state park, or a historic site can make a difference. The key is to explore new environments that challenge you to see the world in a new light.

Of course, before you go, do some research. Get to know the area, look up potential shoot locations, and plan your days to maximize the time you spend shooting. Once you’re there, the change of scenery will likely trigger new ways to consider compositions, lighting, and subjects.

When you come back, you’ll likely find that the trip has given you not just photos, but a fresh enthusiasm for photographing locations that are closer to home.

13. Look through your photo archives

If you’ve been doing photography for a while, you’ve undoubtedly amassed a large collection of shots – but when was the last time you really dug into these files? Your photographic archive can be a goldmine of inspiration. You might stumble across a theme you started but never finished or a style you experimented with but dropped. And now that you’re feeling uninspired by your existing work, it might be the perfect time to revisit and possibly complete those incomplete stories.

Start by taking some time to systematically go through your photos, ideally going back a few years. Don’t rush. Let yourself absorb the work you’ve done and reflect on your growth and changes in style.

What should you be looking for? Perhaps an old but interesting technique or an unfinished series that could be turned into a portfolio piece. Maybe a type of photography you haven’t done in a while.

Then, when you find something inspiring, think of ways to take your old ideas to new heights. Maybe modernize them with skills you’ve acquired since then or combine old and new approaches to create something entirely different.

14. Work on your editing skills

If you’ve been stuck in a creative rut, you’ve likely thought about stepping away from photography for a bit. It makes sense: When you’re burnt out, a break can make a big difference. But you don’t have to drop photography entirely. Instead, you can focus on skills that don’t require a camera, such as editing.

Editing is far more than a final coat of paint; it’s where your images come alive and take form. And by learning new editing techniques, you may find yourself inspired by all of the photographic possibilities – the way you can combine editing and photography to create breathtaking results.

Even if you’re well-versed in the basics – cropping, adjusting exposure and color – you might be missing out on some of the most effective professional techniques. Color grading, blending modes, masking, dodging and burning; they’re all advanced approaches and tools that really can revolutionize your portfolio.

Developing your editing skills might seem difficult, but a plethora of online tutorials can guide you through these processes. YouTube is full of skilled editors sharing their favorite tricks. And you can find courses that go more in-depth, teaching you how to harness the full potential of your editing software.

So, instead of walking away from photography, channel your energy into mastering post-processing techniques. You may find that by improving your editing skills, you’ll view your past and future work with new enthusiasm.

15. Take a photography course

Sometimes, the best way to jumpstart your creativity is by learning something new. And what better way to do that than by enrolling in a photography course?

Structured learning helps you master new skills quickly, whether you’re a beginner seeking foundational knowledge or a seasoned pro craving advanced techniques. And the options are plentiful; there are literally thousands of online courses that let you learn at your own pace, right from the comfort of your home.

(Of course, if you prefer a hands-on experience, you can also explore workshops or even take classes at your local community college.)

Picking the right course depends on your needs. Are you into wildlife photography? There’s a course for that. Portraits more your style? Plenty of options there, too. You’ll find specialized courses covering topics like studio lighting, macro photography, post-processing, bird photography, and so much more. The world of photography education is incredibly vast and really does offer something for everyone.

At the end of the day, a new skill can push you to see – and photograph – the world in new ways. So don’t hesitate. Dive into a course and watch how quickly you regain that photographic inspiration!

Ways to find photography inspiration: final words

If you’re feeling uninspired, dejected, or just plain burnt out, I hope this article has been helpful. With a few simple techniques and a conscious effort to change your mindset, you can come back more inspired and more motivated than ever, ready to explore all these wonderful facets of an art form that has so many ardent fans all over the world!

So pick one or more of the methods for inspiration I’ve shared. Then really commit to it. If you do a self-challenge, give it your all. If you take on a project, block out time to complete it. And if you take a break from photography and do something else creative, put real effort into that, too!

Now over to you:

How do you plan to feel motivated again? Do you have any techniques for gaining inspiration that I didn’t cover in this article? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 15 Ways to Find Photography Inspiration When You Feel Stuck appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christina N Dickson.

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[Photography] How to Photograph Artwork (8 Essential Tips)

The post How to Photograph Artwork (8 Essential Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Neil Creek.

Looking to photograph your own artwork, artwork at a museum, or artwork at a gallery?

Capturing artwork may seem simple, but it’s hard to do well. There are technical hurdles to overcome; for instance, you must achieve an even exposure, avoid reflections, focus accurately, and choose the perfect aperture to keep the art sharp.

I love to document artwork. And in this article, I share the tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years, which cover lighting, settings, gear choice, and more.

Note that the techniques I give are geared toward two-dimensional art: paintings, drawings, and prints. But many of the tips I offer also apply to three-dimensional art – so if you’re hoping to capture installations and/or sculptures, I’d still encourage you to keep reading!

Detail from The Ninth Wave (1850) by Ivan Aivazovsky. Russian Museum, St Petersburg.

1. Carefully adjust the white balance

When photographing artwork, white balance is not objective – there’s a creative decision that must be made. Do you want to preserve the color of the art as you see it? Or should you neutralize any color casts and make the whites white? Will you be a historian? Or will you be a restorer?

I could have restored the whiteness and original color to this Victorian newspaper with a single click. Instead, by using a gray card, I’ve reproduced its 125-year-old state.

Paper and paint tend to discolor with age. You have to decide if you want to copy what you see or turn back the clock – assuming you’re correct in your assumptions about the original color.

To correct the white balance on a piece of art, you have two main options:

1. If you want to make the whites appear white, take the photo using your camera’s Auto White Balance setting, then open the image in a photo-editing program. Choose an area within the artwork that should be neutral in tone – preferably a mid-gray spot. Click on this area with a white balance tool to equalize the RGB values and correct color throughout the piece. Problems arise when the artwork has aged more in some places than others, and you may end up with ugly yellow blotches in certain areas.
2. If you want to preserve signs of aging, take a shot using a gray card, then use it to set the white balance when processing the file. It’ll keep the existing color of the artwork, including signs of aging. And if you want to emphasize an antique look, you can always warm the photo up a bit.

A third option – if you have no neutral tones in the image and you didn’t use a gray card – is to fiddle with the color temperature and tint sliders until you think the white balance is correct. Correcting color by eye is hit and miss, however, and it’s never as accurate as the options discussed above.

One thing we know about snow is that it looks white! Artificial lighting and/or aging made this painting yellow. A white balance tool can quickly restore the whites, though it’s hard to know how the painting looked when fresh. Artist: Ferdinand Schmidt (c. 1900), La Piscine Museum, Roubaix.

By the way, the light source will dramatically affect the white balancing process. Avoid mixed lighting if you can! In museums, you won’t often find paintings under mixed light sources, but the same is not true of sculptures. A mixture of warm artificial light and window light can cause strong orange or blue color casts in parts of the final image, which can be hard to deal with in post-processing:

Art museums rarely display paintings under mixed lighting, but you might find sculptures near windows. That will often result in blue highlights and orange shadows. Sculpture: Epicurus and Metrodorus, Louvre Museum.

2. Be careful when using window light

This old advertisement was on display outside. Though the temperature of daylight varies, no other light source displays color so fully across the visible spectrum. Kattenkabinet Museum, Amsterdam.

Daylight is great at displaying the colors of the visible spectrum with little bias. It’s an ideal light source for art. The only problem? You can’t control it very well. If you use window light to photograph a piece of art, the exposure will likely be uneven from side to side. In fact, you may see a difference of a stop or more! (By using a reflector, you can get this down to about half a stop or less.)

Of course, you can balance the exposure in post-processing. It can help to photograph a blank card or piece of white paper under the same light; the result will make the uneven exposure obvious when viewed on the computer. You can then use what you see to correct your other photos from the same location.

If you photograph a postcard by window light, flipping it over makes an uneven exposure more obvious. The right portion of this photo is 25% brighter than the left.

Once you identify exposure inconsistencies, use adjustment brushes or a graduated filter tool to correct the issues. A graduated filter tool is perfect for this, but you can just as easily use brushes with lots of feathering.

3. Correctly position the art and your camera

When photographing a 2D piece of art, you’ll need to position it flat against a wall or table. You should then align the camera sensor perfectly with the art’s 2D plane. Otherwise, you’ll see the same “keystone” effect you get with architecture where vertical lines converge. In other words, the art will be slightly distorted if you take your photo at an angle (though not always to a noticeable degree).

Use spirit levels along with perpendicular lines in the artwork to achieve the best possible perspective. Heavy corrections for keystoning after the fact have an adverse effect on image quality, which may or may not be noticeable depending on your intended use.

One way you can align a camera with 2D art is to use a spirit level. Test the surface that the art lies against, then make adjustments with props if necessary (much as you would fix a table leg on an uneven floor). Do the same thing with your camera, using a spirit level on the hot shoe to ensure that it’s perfectly level.

Ideally, you want the camera to be level with the center of the picture when photographing art. I haven’t done too badly with this handheld shot, though it’s slightly tilted to the right (wall-mounted paintings can tilt at the top). The correction will be moderate. Artist: Lucien Jonas (1880-1947), La Piscine Museum, Roubaix.

Spirit levels vary in their accuracy, but you’ll soon determine if your method works. If it does, the horizontal and vertical edges of the artwork will align at 90-degree angles. If your setup is off-kilter, you’ll see the slight keystone effect discussed above.

If you don’t shoot with a perfectly level camera toward a perfectly level piece of art, all is not lost; you can correct the perspective in editing software, but you’ll lose some sharpness along the way. So it’s best to do the best you can while working in the field and only make minor corrections later.

Note: If all you’re doing is sharing a photo of a painting on Facebook, you don’t need to be fussy about aligning the artwork and your camera. Using a sufficiently narrow aperture will compensate for minor focusing errors, and nobody’s going to notice imperfect verticals! On the other hand, if you’re selling art online, you want the images to look as perfect as possible.

4. Use the right lens and aperture

You can photograph artwork with any camera, but it’s important to choose a lens with minimal distortion and excellent optics. You also want a lens that you can use at close range without issue.

I’d recommend a 50mm or 100mm prime lens with decent close-focusing capabilities. Many people use macro lenses, not least because they create very little distortion at close range. A high-quality zoom – such as a 24-70mm lens – will also suffice.

Two-dimensional art doesn’t require much depth of field, so don’t feel compelled to choose a small aperture if you don’t have the necessary light. On the other hand, closing the lens down two or three stops will often give you maximum sharpness and will compensate for slight focusing errors or a failure to properly align your camera with the artwork, so if you can, shoot at f/8.

5. Focus using Live View

Without question, the most accurate way to focus on art is to set your camera up on a tripod and use its Live View mode while focusing manually.

So if sharpness is critical, it pays to switch your lens to its manual focus mode, turn on Live View, then zoom in and focus carefully using the LCD.

Note that for three-dimensional subjects like statues, Live View is invaluable. It’ll help you overcome problems like field curvature, inaccurate focusing screens or focusing points, and misaligned mirrors and sensors. When in doubt, Live View is the way to go!

Of course, if you’re just taking casual shots, feel free to focus (manually or automatically) through the viewfinder and let a deep depth of field take care of any minor errors.

6. Take steps to avoid reflections

When you’re capturing a photo of two-dimensional art behind glass, you’ll often run into reflections that distract the viewer and ruin image clarity. If you’re not set on photographing that particular piece of artwork, it might be better to just move on to another subject. That said, there are ways of avoiding or minimizing reflections in your artwork photos:

• Do not use direct on-camera flash. It’ll create a hideous hotspot on the glass that will be impossible to remove in post-processing.
• Use directional light sources that come from the side, preferably two at equal distance (one on either side of the art). Non-directional light is softer but will create reflections of other items in the room.
• Wear black clothes; they’ll show up less in reflections and absorb light from other sources.
• Get friends or relatives in dark clothing to stand near the art and block reflections.
• Use a large black scrim/screen and push your lens through it to photograph the art. This is similar to the black-clothing approach, but it’s more effective.
• Use a polarizing filter to cut out much of the glare. Unfortunately, a polarizer forces you to increase your shutter speed or boost your ISO, so it’s not ideal for capturing handheld shots in dim museums.
• Shoot at a slight angle to cut out reflections, then adjust the perspective in post-processing. As discussed in a previous tip, if you overdo this, you’ll see a decrease in edge-to-edge sharpness.
• Examine the artwork carefully for reflections that may not be immediately obvious. In my experience, reflections have a habit of being more noticeable on a computer monitor!

7. Use the right lighting to capture artwork texture

If you want to capture texture on a piece of art (e.g., an oil painting), the last thing you want is a diffuse light source like a fluorescent bulb. What you need is a directional light source that’s positioned off to one side.

In oil paintings, revealing texture usually means that some light will reflect into the lens, which can be distracting. It’s a question of controlling the effect so that spectral highlights don’t ruin the picture. A polarizing filter will help as long as it doesn’t increase the exposure time too much.

The reflections in this oil-painted portrait emphasize texture, but they’re distracting. Like all spectral highlights, reflections in art need to be subtle and kept away from the image focal points.

Note that LED lighting is directional by nature. You can improvise at home by setting up LED narrow-beam G50 spotlights or similar. Otherwise, you can control diffuse artificial lighting or flash lighting with modifiers (such as snoots).

8. Consider purchasing advanced equipment

If you’re photographing fairly small artworks, you can be ultra-professional by using equipment designed specifically for art photography.

For instance, consider purchasing a copy stand, which includes a base, two lights, a column, and an arm to hold your camera. A copy stand is ideal for photographing large volumes of flat art; it’ll keep you set up and prepared to shoot, whereas setting up a tripod, a camera, and lighting takes time. Copy stands cost around $200, but you can pick one up secondhand for $100 or less.

I’d also recommend looking into light tables; these are often used to create product photos with a clear, smooth white background, but you can just as easily use one to photograph small artworks and ornaments. (That said, if you want to record flat artworks without a background, a copy stand is a better bet.)

Finally, consider purchasing or making a light tent: a five-sided cube held together by wire or plastic. Light tent sides are made from a translucent material that diffuses the light, and many tents come with various backgrounds. Some tents even have a hole in the top that lets you point the lens downward, which is ideal for photographing small, flat artworks.

You need an even exposure for flat art, so it’s a good idea to position lights of equal strength at an equal distance on either side of the tent.

Light tents can easily be made at home by constructing a simple frame and covering it with translucent material.
Photo: Alison Christine from North Yorkshire, UK [CC BY 2.0] via Wikimedia Commons

Light tents are often cheap to buy, unlike light tables and copy stands. They’re often flimsy, but since they’re only a few bucks, they’re generally worth trying. If the gear works, no viewer is ever going to question how much you spent on your gear!

A young girl distracts herself with flowers whilst possibly slightly bored at a wedding table. Artist: Albert Fourié (1854-1937), Musée des beaux-arts de Rouen.

How to photograph art: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to capture top-quality photos of art – whether you’re shooting at home or at a museum.

Just remember to keep your audience in mind. You don’t need to spend long minutes taking each shot if you only plan to share your images on Facebook. Conversely, if you’re after highly faithful record images, then make sure you spend extra time getting everything right.

What art do you plan to photograph? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Photograph Artwork (8 Essential Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Neil Creek.

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[Photography] Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide

The post Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Do you know how and when to use Screen blend mode in Photoshop to improve your images? While you probably realize that you can change the blending modes of your layers, determining which mode to use each time can be tough.

To make the most of Screen blend mode, it’s important to understand how it works. In this article, I start by explaining what Screen is and what it does to your images; I then share when to use it for the best results, and I give you some practical examples, too. I close with a couple of extra tips to help you master the blend mode and use it to improve your Photoshop editing.

So if you’re ready to become a Screen master, then let’s dive right in!

What is Screen blend mode?

First things first: Photoshop allows you to work with layers of different types (including image layers and adjustment layers). You can make each of your layers interact with one another – and blend modes are the mechanisms that guide this interaction. In other words, by choosing different blend modes, you can ensure that your layers interact in different ways.

Now, Photoshop’s blend modes are divided into categories. Screen belongs to the Lighten category because it lightens images (more about that in a moment!). Technically speaking, Screen inverts, multiplies, and once again inverts the value of the pixels. Let’s see what this means in practice:

As the examples show – in which white, gray, and black layers are blended with my original flower file – Screen generally lightens the original image. However, if you use Screen to blend an image with a black layer, the colors won’t change – and if you use Screen to blend an image with a white layer, you’ll get a pure white result.

When should you use Screen blend mode?

Screen is useful in two main situations: When you want to adjust or correct your image, and when you want to do photo compositing. Let’s take a look at both scenarios in turn:

1. For photo editing

As I mentioned above, Screen blend mode lightens your image – which means it comes in handy when you have underexposed (i.e., too dark) photos.

Simply duplicate your image layer, then change the blend mode to Screen. Your photo will immediately lighten:

It’s also possible to use the Screen blend mode – in combination with the Multiply blend mode – to add contrast.

You see, Screen and Multiply are opposites, so when you have an image that’s dull or flat, you can duplicate the image twice. Then change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and the blend mode to Multiply on the other!

All you need to do is duplicate the image two times. Change the blend mode to Screen on one of the duplicates and Multiply on the other, and your image will gain a bit of contrast.

2. For photo compositing

In the first section of this article, I showed you how black pixels won’t have any effect on your image when you use the Screen blend mode. And when you’re making a photo composite, this can certainly come in handy!

Why? Because when you paste a subject on a black surface, you won’t need to waste long minutes selecting and masking it. Instead, you can simply change the blend mode to Screen, and the black background will disappear. (Some common examples where this works well is when compositing smoke, lightning, and bokeh.)

How to use Screen blend mode: step by step

Working with Screen is extremely easy, and even Photoshop beginners should be able to grasp the basics.

Start by opening the image you want to edit in Photoshop. Then add a second layer (on which you’ll be using the Screen blend mode). It doesn’t matter if it’s a duplicate of the original file, a new image, or an adjustment layer; Screen is used the same way in each scenario.

For my example, I’m duplicating the Background layer. To do this, you can click on the layer and drag it to the Add New Layer icon at the bottom of the Layers panel, or you can use the Duplicate Layer command in the Layer menu:

Make sure your new layer is selected, then open the blend mode menu (you’ll find it at the top of the Layers panel). Scroll until you find Screen:

If you’re using Photoshop CC, you’ll see a preview of each blend mode’s effect as you hover over it in the menu. However, to apply Screen (or any other blend mode), you’ll need to click on it.

If the result is a little too intense, go ahead and adjust the opacity. You’ll find this option at the top of the Layers panel next to the blend mode menu:

By default, the opacity will be at 100%. To adjust it, click on the arrow next to it to open the slider. Then simply move the slider until you’re happy with the result!

Screen blend mode: A step-by-step example

As I mentioned above, there are many uses for the Screen blend mode. In this example, I show you how it can be used to recover underexposed photographs, then I explain how to combine it with the Multiply blend mode to add contrast.

By the time I’m finished, you’ll see how much detail you can recover from a poorly exposed photograph without losing any information.

Step 1: Duplicate your image layer

You’ll need to start by opening your image; by default, it will appear as a locked Background layer:

Go ahead and duplicate the original image. Remember, you can simply click and drag it to the plus sign at the bottom of the panel (i.e., the Add New Layer icon). Alternatively, you can select Layer>Duplicate Layer in the Photoshop menu.

Step 2: Apply the Screen blend mode

Next, you’ll want to change the blend mode to Screen. As I explained in the previous section, you can do this by opening the drop-down menu at the top of the Layers panel.

Click on Screen, then watch as the image brightens:

Step 3: Adjust the tones

The Screen blend mode did a great job of boosting the exposure of my image, but the highlights – that is, the brightest portions of the sky and the water- are a bit too bright. I want to lower the effect of the blend mode on those areas (and only those areas).

To do this, I’ll add a layer mask. You can create masks by selecting the relevant layer, then clicking the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the panel. Then grab a Brush, set it to black, lower its opacity, and start painting over the lighter areas (while making sure your mask is selected).

The areas over which I’ve painted decrease in brightness, giving a nice result:

I like what I’ve produced, but I want to brighten the shadows further and add some contrast. To do this, I can create a Levels adjustment layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

Just altering the blend mode will produce an immediate change – though you can fine-tune the effect using the sliders or the presets in the Levels property panel. In my case, I’ve used one of the presets to increase the contrast.

Note: If you think it’s necessary, you can lower the opacity of your Levels adjustment layer. I turned mine down to 50%, but you should always move the slider to choose a value that’s right for your image.

Step 5: Add some extra contrast

At this point, my image has details in shadows and highlights, and it’s definitely an improvement compared to the original. However, it looks rather flat. A dramatic sky would give it the extra oomph it needs.

I’ll merge and copy all the layers into a single new file by pressing Ctrl/Cmd+Shift+Alt/Option+E, then I’ll change the blend mode to Multiply.

Since Multiply is the opposite of Screen, the image will get darker. Unfortunately, while the sky is now exactly what I want, the rest is too dark again. So I’ll create a layer mask to fine-tune where I want the Multiply layer to appear and where I want the Screen layer to shine through:

And that’s it. Just look at the difference:

Screen blend mode: 2 quick tips

Like any other Photoshop tool, there’s more to Screen than meets the eye. Here are a few extra tips to help you out:

1. Apply Screen blend mode to a filter

When you’re working with Smart Objects, the filters you apply become Smart Filters – which allow you to change the blend mode (just as if you were working with layers).

To adjust a filter’s blend mode, double-click on the Adjustments icon next to the filter in the Layers panel. This will open a dialog box; simply open the Mode menu and choose Screen:

2. Use Screen to add a tint to your photos

You can use the Screen blend mode to add a tint or a touch of color to your images. Simply add a Solid Color or Gradient layer, then change the blend mode to Screen:

If the effect is a bit strong, you can always lower the opacity. Note that the result may be very subtle, yet it’s a great way to give your images that extra-polished look.

Screen blend mode: final words

Hopefully, you found this article helpful! Screen isn’t a hugely popular blend mode, but it’s actually very useful and versatile. Whether you’re adding clouds to a landscape, steam to a cup of coffee, or brightening an underexposed photo, Screen will make things so much easier.

So if you haven’t already, head into Photoshop and test it out. Try compositing two images, or see if you can subtly improve a photo by using Screen to alter the exposure.

Now over to you:

How do you plan to use the Screen blend mode? Do you have any additional tips? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Screen Blend Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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