You’ve got a decent camera. You understand exposure. But something about your photos still feels… off. More often than not, the culprit isn’t your gear — it’s composition. The good news? These mistakes are easy to spot once you know what to look for, and even easier to fix. Here are ten composition habits that might be holding your photos back.
1. Putting the subject dead-centre every time The rule of thirds exists for a reason. Placing your subject slightly off-centre creates visual tension and a more natural, engaging image. Try positioning eyes, horizons, or focal points along the grid lines instead.
2. A cluttered, busy background Your background is working either for you or against you — there’s no neutral. Before you shoot, scan the whole frame. Distracting elements behind your subject? Move your feet, change your angle, or open up your aperture.
3. Cutting off limbs at the joints Cropping someone at the wrist, ankle, or knee looks awkward and unintentional. If you need to crop a person, do it between joints — mid-forearm, mid-shin, mid-thigh.
4. A horizon that’s not actually horizontal A tilted horizon is one of the most common and most fixable mistakes in photography. Use your camera’s built-in level (most have one), or spend 10 seconds straightening in post.
5. No clear subject Ask yourself: what is this photo of? If the answer is vague, your viewer won’t know where to look. Every strong image has a clear visual anchor. Find yours before you press the shutter.
6. Not using leading lines Roads, fences, rivers, staircases — these are gifts. Leading lines pull the viewer’s eye into the frame and give your image depth and direction. Look for them in every scene.
7. Shooting everything from eye level Eye level is comfortable, but it’s also predictable. Get low and shoot upward for drama. Get high and shoot down for context. Even a small change in angle can transform a photo entirely.
8. Ignoring negative space Empty space isn’t wasted space. Negative space gives your subject room to breathe and can make an image feel calm, deliberate, and modern. Don’t feel compelled to fill every corner of the frame.
9. Merging edges — where your subject “touches” the background When a tree, pole, or wall appears to grow out of someone’s head, it’s called a merge — and it’s distracting. Check your edges before shooting and adjust your position to separate the subject from the background.
10. Forgetting to simplify The best compositions usually have one thing to say. Before you shoot, ask: what can I remove from this frame? Great composition is often about subtraction, not addition.
The great thing about composition is that it costs nothing and improves everything. You don’t need a new lens or a camera upgrade — just a more intentional eye. Pick one of these to focus on during your next shoot and see what a difference it makes.
If you’ve poked around your camera’s menu settings, you’ve probably come across an option that says something like “Image Quality” or “File Format” — and two choices staring back at you: RAW and JPEG. Most beginners shrug and leave it on JPEG because, well, it’s the default. But understanding this one setting could genuinely transform the photos you’re able to produce. Let’s break it down in plain English.
What actually is a RAW file?
Think of a RAW file as a digital negative — it’s all the data your camera sensor captured, completely unprocessed. When you shoot RAW, your camera records everything: every detail in the shadows, every highlight, every colour nuance. Nothing is thrown away.
The trade-off? Your camera doesn’t do anything with that data. RAW files can’t be posted to Instagram straight out of your memory card. They need to be processed in editing software like Adobe Lightroom, Capture One, or even the free Darktable before you can share them. That’s extra work, but it’s also where the magic happens.
So what does JPEG do differently?
A JPEG is a finished product. The moment you press the shutter, your camera applies sharpening, contrast, colour, and noise reduction — automatically — and then compresses the image down into a smaller file. It’s ready to share immediately.
The downside is that your camera makes those decisions for you. And in doing so, it throws away a lot of data to achieve that smaller file size. Once that information is gone, it’s gone for good.
Why does this matter when editing?
This is where the RAW vs JPEG debate gets really practical. Let’s say you take a beautiful landscape photo, but you slightly underexposed it — the image looks a bit dark. Here’s what happens in each format:
With RAW, you open the file in Lightroom, drag the Exposure slider up a couple of stops, and the detail that was hiding in the shadows comes right back. The image still looks natural.
With JPEG, you try the same thing. The image brightens, but the shadows turn muddy and noisy. You might also start to see banding — those ugly stripes of colour where smooth gradients used to be. That’s because the data you needed to recover the image simply isn’t there anymore.
RAW files typically give you around 4 stops of exposure recovery in either direction. JPEGs? About one stop, if you’re lucky. That headroom is the difference between a recoverable mistake and a deleted photo.
The colour and white balance advantage
Here’s another thing beginners often don’t realise: white balance is completely non-destructive in RAW. Shot your indoor portraits under warm tungsten light and forgot to adjust white balance? No problem — in Lightroom, you can fix it perfectly after the fact with zero quality loss.
In JPEG, changing white balance in post is genuinely editing the image data. You can nudge it slightly, but a major correction will shift colours in ways that look artificial and degrade quality.
“But my JPEGs look great straight from the camera!”
They might! Camera manufacturers have put enormous effort into their in-camera JPEG processing, and modern cameras produce lovely JPEGs. If you’re shooting fast-moving events, sports, or documentary work where you need to hand off photos quickly, JPEG is completely legitimate and used by professionals every day.
The question is: are you getting the most out of your camera, and do you have the editing control you need?
If you’re learning photography and want to understand how exposure, colour, and light work together, shooting RAW forces you to engage with those decisions in post. That process is incredibly educational. You start to see what the camera captured versus what you created — and that gap is where you grow as a photographer.
The storage and speed trade-off
RAW files are big. Depending on your camera, a single RAW file can be 30–80 MB, versus 5–20 MB for a JPEG. If you’re shooting hundreds of frames, that adds up fast. You’ll need bigger memory cards, more hard drive space, and longer backup times.
RAW files also slow down your camera’s burst shooting because there’s more data to write to the card. If you shoot action or wildlife where you’re hammering that shutter button, this can matter.
Many cameras offer a great middle-ground solution: RAW + JPEG. You get both files simultaneously — the JPEG for quick sharing and preview, the RAW if you want to edit properly later. Storage hungry, but flexible.
Which should you choose?
Here’s a simple way to think about it:
Choose RAW if you care about getting the best quality from every shot, you enjoy or plan to learn editing, you shoot in challenging lighting conditions, or you’re working on portraits, landscapes, or any photography where the final edit matters.
Choose JPEG if you need photos ready to use immediately, you’re shooting high-speed action and need fast burst rates, or you genuinely don’t want to edit and your camera’s JPEG output already makes you happy.
Choose RAW + JPEG if you want the best of both worlds and don’t mind using the extra storage.
Getting started with RAW
If this has convinced you to give RAW a try, here’s how to start: change your camera’s image quality setting to RAW (or RAW + JPEG), and download Adobe Lightroom (there’s a free mobile version) or the free desktop app Darktable.
Take a photo in tricky lighting — something with bright windows and shadowy corners is perfect — and spend 10 minutes just moving sliders around. Watch how much detail you can pull back from areas that looked completely lost. That moment of “oh, wow” is what turns most people into permanent RAW shooters.
Got questions about RAW editing or what software to use? Drop them in the comments below — we’d love to help.
This article was updated in January 2024 with contributions from Kelly Wolfe, Dave Spates, and Jaymes Dempsey.
Photographing dogs in action is an absolute thrill. One moment they’re a ball of energy, and the next, they’re soaring through the air to catch a Frisbee. Those freeze-frame shots elicit smiles from everyone who sees them.
But it’s not just about clicking the shutter. A lot goes on behind the scenes. Dialing in the right camera settings, keeping the dog focused, and maintaining their enthusiasm are all part of the equation. In this article, I’ll share some golden nuggets that have helped me capture those split-second wonders on camera.
So whether you’re photographing your own furry friend or working on a pet photography gig, you’ll find some actionable advice here. Let’s jump right in and elevate your dog action photography skills!
1. Use the right gear
Image by David Spates
Before I delve into practical tips for dog action shots, I want to briefly explore the importance of gear, which can make or break your images.
If you want to take better action photos of dogs, I recommend a camera body with a fast burst rate. From my experience, five frames per second is the minimum. If your camera has a faster frame rate than that, you are going to increase your keeper rate as long as your approach and technique are on point, which we will get to shortly.
Additionally, fast autofocusing is a must-have. Fortunately, many modern mirrorless cameras do an excellent job of tracking subjects as they move – and some even include animal eye AF modes so you can focus consistently on the dog’s eye as they bound around the space!
I also recommend long and fast lenses. I’ve tried to photograph action shots with the 50mm f/1.8, and the Tokina 100mm f/2.8, with very little success. While both of these lenses are incredibly sharp, they are soft wide open and do not focus well on moving subjects.
Longer lenses with fixed apertures generally focus on moving subjects much faster than shorter lenses. They also keep you and your camera gear safer. Think about it. If you have a 45 point Border Collie running full speed right at you, you need to get the photograph and get out of the way quickly.
A longer lens will give you the time you need to move once the dog starts to fill the frame. I personally use the Nikon 300mm f/4 and sometimes I’ll even throw a teleconverter on it for extended reach and cleaner bokeh.
A 70-200mm f/2.8 lens can also be very effective for dog action shots. The focal length is versatile enough for close-ups and wide shots, while the large aperture allows for shooting in lower light conditions!
2. Make sure the dog is safe
First and foremost, safety should be your priority. Dogs are not just subjects to be photographed; they are living, breathing beings that deserve respect and care.
Always choose a location where dogs are allowed. You don’t want to get into trouble with authorities or risk the dog getting hurt in an unfamiliar environment.
Opt for areas that are far from any hazards. A busy road, a steep drop, or any place where a dog can get hurt should be avoided. Keep a close eye on the dog, especially if they’re off-leash.
Ensure the area is secure enough so that the dog won’t dash off to chase a squirrel or another dog. This might mean choosing a fenced-in park or similar space.
Know the dog’s limits. Some dogs might have health issues that prevent them from running or jumping. Others might be too young or too old for strenuous activity. Listen to the dog’s owner and observe the dog’s behavior. Remember, capturing their personality is more important than getting an action shot at the expense of their well-being.
If the dog seems uncomfortable, slow down. It’s perfectly fine to capture them at their own pace. No photograph is worth risking the safety or well-being of your subject.
In essence, always prioritize the dog’s safety. This will not only make for a more relaxed and enjoyable session but will also ensure that you get natural, happy shots that reflect the dog’s true spirit.
3. Get a real expression from the dog
Capturing genuine emotion in a dog’s eyes can transform a good photo into a great one. The key to this lies not just in your camera skills, but also in how you interact with the dog.
Use a positive, encouraging voice when calling the dog over. Our four-legged friends are very attuned to human emotions, so a happy tone can go a long way. Make sure you and the dog’s owner are both creating an atmosphere of positivity.
Prepare some rewards to place by your camera. Dogs love treats and toys, so having some handy can help you get those tail-wagging, tongue-out smiles. Discuss with the dog’s owner to find out what their pet finds irresistible – be it squeaky toys, tennis balls, or treats.
Let the dog approach the camera naturally, enticed by rewards and your encouraging voice. The owner will know what will make their pet tick, so take their advice into account.
As you interact, watch for those perfect moments. Sometimes the ideal expression will come naturally as the dog reacts to your voice or the promise of a treat. Be ready to capture it.
4. Learn about the dog in advance
Prior knowledge about your four-legged subject can make or break your photography session. You need to know the basics, such as the dog’s training level, to strategize your shots effectively.
Start with a conversation with the dog’s owner. Find out about the dog’s health, especially if they have any mobility issues or dietary restrictions. This information will help you decide how active the photography session can be and what treats you can use.
Ask about their personality traits. Is the dog energetic and outgoing, or more shy and reserved? Knowing this will allow you to set up your shots in a way that brings out their true character.
Query about their training level. Does the dog know basic commands like sit, stay, and come? This can have a huge impact on how you orchestrate the shoot. Well-trained dogs may allow for more complex setups, while a younger or less-trained dog may require a simpler approach.
Safety is another concern that goes back to knowing the dog. If you’re aware of their temperament and any potential health concerns, you’ll be better equipped to ensure a safe and enjoyable session for everyone involved.
5. For running shots, have the owner call the dog
Getting a dog to run is only half the battle. The real trick is guiding them in the direction you want. For well-trained dogs with a solid “sit and stay,” I typically position the owner about 20 meters behind me. They call the dog, who then races directly towards the camera.
For younger or less trained pups, it’s essential to pick a secure location with minimal distractions. Think a dog-friendly park or even the dog’s backyard. You can also enlist the help of an extra person to hold the dog in place if they haven’t mastered the “sit and stay” command.
Some photographers opt for the dog to be on a leash. This can work, especially if the owner jogs along with them. You can always edit the leash out later if it interferes with the shot.
Keep your position in mind. If you want the dog to run directly toward you, be sure you’re in a spot that allows for this. An alternate option is to place yourself so that the dog will cross your path, giving you ample opportunity to capture a series of action shots.
6. Let the dogs be themselves
While it’s natural to have a list of shots you want to capture, remember that dogs have personalities too. And sometimes, they just want to do their own thing.
Let them! Some of my best shots have come from moments when the dogs were simply enjoying themselves. They could be chasing after a ball, bounding through tall grass, or playing a game of tug-of-war.
When you let dogs be themselves, their personalities shine through. And that makes for truly unforgettable photographs. You’ll find that the spontaneity adds a layer of authenticity and emotion that is often missing in overly staged shots.
So if you find that the dog isn’t interested in running directly towards you, but would rather sniff around and explore, go with it. Capture those candid moments. They’ll likely end up being some of your favorites from the shoot!
7. Get down low
Photographing from up high might work for humans, but dogs? Not so much. The simple act of lowering your camera can transform your dog action photos.
When you’re at the dog’s level, the images have a unique intimacy. You’re entering their world, capturing life from their viewpoint. This makes for some really compelling photos.
Another perk is the background. Being low increases the separation between the dog and the background. This helps in creating that beautiful, blurry backdrop, also known as bokeh, which makes the dog pop in the image.
So don’t hesitate to get a bit dirty. Crouch down, kneel, or even go flat on your stomach. Experimenting with these angles can add a dynamic touch to your images.
Remember, varying your height and angle can yield a variety of shots, all in one session. So pack some knee pads along with your camera gear and get down to the dog’s eye level.
8. Choose the right settings for dogs in action
Camera settings can make or break action shots. For starters, I like to use Manual mode. This gives me complete control over the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.
Fast shutter speeds are essential. Dogs are quick creatures, so to freeze their motion, I generally start with a shutter speed of 1/1000s. Don’t be afraid to ramp it up even more if the dog is particularly fast.
Aperture plays a role too. A wide aperture can help create a shallow depth of field, blurring the background and making the dog stand out.
Then there’s ISO. While you’ll want to keep it as low as possible to avoid grain, don’t be too concerned if you have to increase it to maintain a fast shutter speed. A slightly grainy shot is far better than a blurry one.
If Manual mode intimidates you, Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority are solid alternatives. They allow you to control one aspect, while the camera adjusts the other. Just make sure you’re still keeping an eye on those crucial settings like shutter speed.
9. Nail that focus!
Ah, focus: the nemesis of many action photographers. With dogs bounding around, keeping them sharp in your frame can be challenging.
For fast-paced action, using a single focus point and continuous focusing mode (AF-C) has always worked for me. With back-button focusing, the camera continues to refocus as long as you hold down the button.
Some cameras offer tracking options. These can lock onto the subject and adjust the focus as they move. Give it a try; it may work wonders depending on your camera’s capabilities.
Animal eye autofocus is another feature to explore if your camera has it. This function focuses directly on the animal’s eyes, ensuring a sharp, expressive face.
Don’t underestimate the power of practice. Take the time to understand how your camera’s focusing system responds to fast-moving subjects. Get out there and shoot, analyze your results, adjust, and shoot some more.
Mastering focus in action photography isn’t something you’ll do overnight. But with consistent effort and the right techniques, you’ll see marked improvements in your work.
10. Practice your timing
Timing is everything in action photography, especially with subjects as quick and unpredictable as dogs. So how can you get that perfect mid-air leap or playful sprint?
Start by observing the dog’s movements. Dogs, like many animals, have a natural rhythm when they move. Take the time to notice this pattern before you start clicking away.
Adopt a technique often used by equestrians: counting strides. When a horse rider is learning to jump, they count the horse’s strides to anticipate the perfect moment for a jump. Apply this method to dog action photography.
Each time the dog’s front legs leave the ground, count it out. One, two, three, and so on. This rhythm helps you anticipate when the dog will be in the ideal position for a fantastic shot.
This counting method might be easier with larger breeds that have a longer stride, but don’t worry if you’re photographing a small dog. Practice will help you adapt this technique to any dog size or speed.
Ultimately, your timing will improve with experience. The more you practice, the better you’ll get at capturing that decisive moment. And remember, digital film is free – so don’t hesitate to take many shots and refine your timing as you go.
How to photograph dogs in action: final words
And there you have it: the nuts and bolts of capturing dogs in exhilarating action!
The safety of your furry subject is paramount, so always choose a secure location and be aware of the dog’s comfort level. Each dog is unique, and getting to know them can inform your approach and result in more authentic photos.
Your gear and settings are crucial, but remember, they are just tools. It’s your understanding of the dog, your timing, and your technique that will set your images apart. Your role is that of both a photographer and an animal lover. Never lose sight of the latter.
Be prepared to adapt. Dogs, like any other models, have their own personalities and quirks. Sometimes the unplanned shots are the ones that capture the animal in the most beautiful way.
Thank you for joining me in this exciting realm of photography. Grab your camera, find a willing pup, and create some memorable, tail-wagging art!
Now over to you:
Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
