[Photography] How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions

This image of Moon Rise over Marietta, Ohio was taken 20 minutes after sunset during the Blue Hour when the sun had set and the sky was a dark blue. Here the city lights make a great warm glow over the city.

According to British photojournalist Donald McCullin, “There is no such thing as bad light, just misunderstood light.” Many photographers consider low light to be bad light. The purpose of this article is to encourage you to not consider low light as inferior or unusable, but rather to look for subjects to photograph that react well to the available light.

Keep in mind that low light photography is not exclusively night photography. Low light photography opportunities may appear any time of the day as well. For instance, shooting waterfalls in low light allows you to shoot with a slow shutter speed, prevents over-exposure of the white water of the falls, and thereby creates a beautiful silky effect capturing the moving water. Using a flash will light up any subject, of course, but let’s take a look at how to improve your photography in naturally occurring low light. Some frequently asked questions about low light photography are addressed below.

Low Light Photography FAQs

Low light create very dramatic scenes. Dark storm clouds turned this potential sunrise into a great low light opportunity

My low light images are blurry. Would a better lens alleviate the blur?

The short answer to this question is YES, a fast lens with maximum f-stop of 1.8 for instance, will give you better results than a kit lens with a maximum f-stop of 3.5 or 5.6. But even the faster, more expensive lens, will give you undesired results with the wrong settings. The wider aperture opening will allow you to use a faster shutter speed resulting in a sharper image. These lenses with larger maximum apertures are called “fast” because they allow you to shoot with faster shutter speeds, due to more light that is entering your camera through the bigger opening.

What are the best camera settings for shooting in low light?

Manual Mode

Shooting in manual mode is paramount to successful low light photography as it allows you to control every functional aspect of your camera. You basically have three ways to get more light on your camera sensor: Shutter speed, Aperture and ISO. These three controls are called The Exposure Triangle, and each of these can have a positive or negative result to your image’s exposure. Therefore, learning how to use them for the best result is the key to low light photography. Your in-camera light meter will reveal where adjustments should be made to the camera settings, and well-exposed images will be the result.

Shutter Speed

If you are shooting handheld, a good rule of thumb is to set your shutter speed to match your focal length. For example, if you are shooting at 50mm your shutter speed shouldn’t be any slower than 1/50th of a second. Of course, if the subject of your photo is moving, then you will need to increase your shutter speed to be fast enough to freeze the action. Therefore, choosing a slower shutter speed will allow more light into your camera, but with that setting, the possibility of a blurry picture occurs.

Great Blue Heron in fight was the subject of this low light image. Exposure 1/250 of a second, f/5.6, ISO 1250. Using the combination of slower shutter speed and a higher ISO to create the blur of the wings and panning to match the speed of the fight of the heron.

Aperture

In most low light situations you will probably need to shoot with your aperture wide open. But if there is enough light to allow you to shoot with a smaller f-stop, it will increase your depth of field. The principle to consider: choosing a wider aperture will let more light into your camera, but will decrease your depth of field, which could lead to an important portion of your image being out of focus.

ISO

The higher the ISO number the more light your camera will record. The trade-off here is, the higher the ISO, the more digital noise you are adding to your image. Keep your ISO as low as possible and only increase your ISO after you have maxed out your shutter speed and aperture.

Shoot in RAW

For best results, shooting in RAW is recommended, for the simple reason that your camera will save more shadow detail in RAW format compared to the compressed format of jpg.

It is very helpful to learn how to check your histogram, and not just rely of what you see on your camera’s LCD screen. Use the histogram to check your exposure, and avoid clipping the highlights and shadows.

Using the low light at Huntington Beach California to create this black and white image with a five second exposure.

How do I take low light action shots?

Shooting action in low light can be very challenging and is almost always going to require you to shoot with your aperture at its widest setting. When your aperture is set, then your shutter speed should be adjusted to match the action that you are trying to freeze. Of course, depending on how low of a light situation you are shooting within, there may simply not be enough light. If this is the case, adjust the ISO to a higher setting until a good exposure is set. If your ISO setting is so high that you are getting an unacceptable amount of digital noise, you have two options: either add light with a flash or some other source, or live with the noise and try to remove some of it in post processing. Sometimes with the noise issue, it comes down to getting the shot with noise, or not taking the shot at all.

How do I reduce the digital noise level in low light images?

The simple answer to this question is to shoot at the lowest ISO that you can. But it is also a good idea to know the ISO at which your camera produces noise that you consider unacceptable. Always make sure that your exposure is correct. Even at a low ISO, if your image is underexposed you will have some noise in the shadowed areas.

An over casted  cloudy day at Blackwater Falls West Virginia allowed for this long exposure without blowing out the highlight.

How do I focus in low light?

Another reason for blurry images in low light is the fact that some cameras just aren’t manufactured to focus properly with less light. Try shining a light on your subject to give your camera enough light to focus. You also may use you manual focus ring to fine-tune your focus. Using the center focus dot may also help as it is usually a cross-point type which focus faster and more accurately than others.

How can I take pro-like images in low light?

Four things that most pros are going to do in low light:

1. Use a tripod
2. Shoot in RAW
3. Shoot in Manual Mode
4. Use the histogram

Low light makes great silhouettes.

How do I choose the best white balance for low light?

Set your white balance to match you environment –  Tungsten for indoors with light from a regular lightbulb, Fluorescent for light from fluorescent bulbs, Cloudy for low light created by an overcast day, and Shade for shooting in a shaded or shadowy area. But, one thing to remember if you are shooting in RAW format is that you can adjust your white balance later in post-processing. But if you are shooting JPGs it is very important to get your white balance correct in-camera. For this reason you should not shoot Auto white balance, it’s very hard, sometimes impossible, to correct later from a JPG.

Should I raise my ISO or lower my shutter speed in low-light?

Assuming that you are shooting with your aperture wide open, in most situations this is an easy one to answer. Adjust your shutter speed and raise your ISO as a last resort. Remember that raising your ISO is going to add more noise into the image. Most new DSLRs do a much better job with the noise levels in their higher ISO settings, but as mentioned earlier, it is a good idea to know at what noise level you are unwilling to accept, and what ISO that is for your camera. In situations where your subject is moving, it may become necessary to adjust the ISO to keep your shutter speed fast enough to freeze the action.

Fog created the low light in this fall image.

Why aren’t my low light shots sharp even when I shoot using a tripod?

Remember in most low light you will be shooting with your aperture wide open (or nearly so), hence your depth of field will be very shallow. Be extra careful to lock your focus (even try back-button focus) on the part of your image that needs to be in sharp focus. Case in point: when shooting a low light portrait, it is important to have the subject’s eyes in focus. If your subject is in motion, increase your shutter speed until it freezes the motion of the image. Also, make sure your camera’s vibration reduction is turned off, as this can actually create blur in your image even if shooting with a tripod.

Bonus tip

In low light the LCD screen on the back of your camera is going to look much brighter than the actual conditions. So, if your camera has an adjustment for the brightness of your LCD screen, turn it down so that your image will not appear to be overly bright when you view it, even if it is underexposed.

Conclusion

The trick to low light photography is to take control of your camera, and know that every action or setting will have a reaction. So, how is that different than photography in any light? It’s not, really. Just consider photography in low light as an opportunity to be creative. What subjects do you like to shoot in low light?

The post How to Shoot in Low Light – 9 Commonly Asked Questions by Bruce Wunderlich appeared first on Digital Photography School.

it's from Digital Photography School http://ift.tt/1ALLeCu
via Bruce Wunderlich

[Photography] How to Use the Right Captions on Your Photos to Better Connect With Viewers

30 years ago, we used slides, prints and albums to share photos with family and friends.  Now, between Facebook, Instagram, Flickr, Google+ and 500px, you have more options than ever to share your photos.  The problem is, how do you connect to this much larger audience?

Sharing a story alongside your photo will help you connect with your followers, and often turn a great photo into something spectacular.

When you share a photo, people may wonder where it was taken, why you were there, what made you photograph the scene, or what was going through your head the moment you snapped the shutter. These are all questions that can be spun into a narrative and shared along with your photo.

The right caption draws viewers into the image

Here’s an example. Which of the following captions draws you in and makes the photo more interesting for you?

Caption 1: Kayakers on the Hudson River

Caption 2: Springtime in upstate New York is full of variable weather. The changing temperatures coupled with different types of precipitation can make for beautiful and unpredictable landscapes. On this particular morning, the Hudson River was covered in a thick fog and knowing how fleeting that can be, I hurried down to the waterfront hoping to capture some shots. Out of nowhere, two colorful kayakers appeared, adding life to my scene as they cut their way down the river and disappeared into the abyss.

I may be biased, but for me it’s Caption 2. Seeing a beautiful photo with a story attached to it pulls me in. It puts me in the same space that the photographer was in when they took the photo, enriches my experience, and ultimately makes the photo, which was good in the first place, a great one.

If you went to a yard sale and and saw a beautiful glass bowl for $20 you may think, “Well, that’s a bit steep for a simple bowl at a yard sale.” But, I bet your mindset would change if the owner told you a story about the bowl — how she acquired it at a glass blowing factory in Halifax back in the 1950s, how it was one of just a handful made and how the bowl moved around the United States with her and family for the past 60 years. Now $20 seems like a bargain!

Nothing changed, you just got some more information. A story enriched your understanding, and in turn, completely changed how you experienced something.

Here’s another example:

Caption 1: The Mohonk Mountain House after an ice storm

Caption 2: It was early December and an ice storm had just ripped through the Hudson Valley leaving debris, destruction, and a clear blue sky in its wake. My wife and I began our hike that day at a lower elevation, and realized as we got higher that the entire forest was encased in ice. It was a winter wonderland that was both beautiful and dangerous. Limbs of trees were scattered everywhere, boulders were slick with ice and in some spots, five foot long icicles hung like stalactites above our heads. As we made our way to the top of the mountain, I stepped into a small gazebo overlook and focused on the Mohonk Mountain House and surrounding landscape, letting the icicles in the foreground frame my shot.

There’s nothing wrong with the first caption, but the second caption really paints a picture in the viewer’s mind and places them there with you.

Here’s another shot I took this winter.  In the past I would have shared it with Caption 1 below, but instead I shared it with Caption 2,  and found that it really resonated with my audience.

Caption 1: Winter Sunset

Caption 2: It was a Friday night and I rushed out of work wanting to photograph something. I made a quick stop at home, put on boots, and grabbed my snowshoes just in case. With so much snow on the ground I racked my brain for a spot that I could easily get to with the potential for a decent sunset shot. Luckily, this incredible vista is just down the street from me. I got there when the sky was beginning to turn all sorts of colors, hurriedly set up my tripod, and captured this winter sunset. I stayed for a little while, watching blues give way to pinks, yellows and oranges until all the color in the sky was gone and my frozen hands signalled to me that it was time to go home.

Viewer experience is enhanced

Not every photo needs a page of text written alongside it, but it’s been my experience that adding a couple of sentences, rather than just a few words (or none at all), greatly enhances the experience of the viewer.  It helps them to connect to your photo and ultimately with you as a photographer.

Caption 1: The Space Needle in Seattle

Caption 2: After an afternoon touring Seattle and Pike Place Market, my wife and I headed over to the Olympic Sculpture Park but found it was closing just when we arrived. Disappointed that I wasn’t able to capture any images of the park, I turned my camera around towards the city as we left and captured this unique view of the iconic Space Needle.

Summary

When I share a photo, I want people to respond to it. I want them to share in the moment and feel what I was feeling when I took the photo. Your story might seem mundane to you, but to your audience it gives them a closer look at who you are and how you think — as a person and a photographer.

The post How to Use the Right Captions on Your Photos to Better Connect With Viewers by Joe Turic appeared first on Digital Photography School.

it's from Digital Photography School http://ift.tt/1ALeYPR
via Joe Turic

[Photography] The Best Selling DSLR Lenses With Our Readers

Today we did some analysis of the Best Selling DSLR Lenses with our readers among dPS readers – based upon purchases made in the last 3 months.*

As usual this list is dominated by Canon and Nikon lenses so we’ve again broken those two brands out into two separate lists of lenses and then have put the other best selling lenses from other brands into a third list.

Interestingly by far the #1 lens in the last 3 months has been the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens which was released just this last month as a successor to their old Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 Mark II which was released back in 1990 but which has always previously topped our best selling lens lists (it is #2 for the first time ever this month).

Note: at this stage we didn’t see any major trends in lenses for compact camera systems which is why we’ve not featured any hear. We expect this market to grow as the mirroless/compact system cameras continue to grow in popularity.

Best Selling Canon DSLR Lenses

1.Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens

2. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens

3. Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM Lens

4. Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens

5. Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

6. Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Medium Telephoto Lens
7. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM Standard Zoom Lens
8. Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM Lens
9. Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM Telephoto Zoom Lens
10. Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM Macro Lens
11. Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Telephoto Zoom Lens
12. Canon EF 40mm f/2.8 STM Lens

Best Selling Nikon DSLR Lenses

1. Nikon 35mm f/1.8G AF-S DX

2. Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S NIKKOR FX

3. Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II AF-S

4. 3. Nikon 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR

5. Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF

6. Nikon 50mm f/1.4G SIC SW Prime AF-S
7. Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II AF-S
8. Nikon AF-S VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED Lens
9. Nikon 85mm f/1.8G AF-S
10. Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF
11. Nikon 18-300mm f/3.5-6.3G ED VR AF-S DX
12. Nikon 40mm f/2.8G AF-S DX Micro

Best Selling DSLR Lenses from Other Brands

1. Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II (for Nikon DSLRs). Also available for Canon and Sony and Minolta cameras.
2. Rokinon FE14M-C 14mm F2.8 Ultra Wide Lens for Canon (also available for Fujifilm X-Mount, Micro Four-Thirds, Olympus, Sony and Pentax and others)
3. Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 SLD DG Macro. (for Nikon DSLRs) Also available for Canon,Minolta and Sony and Pentax cameras.
4. Opteka 6.5mm f/3.5 HD Aspherical Fisheye for Canon DSLRs.
5. Sigma 340101 35mm F1.4 DG HSM Lens for Canon (also available for Nikon, Pentax and Sony)
6. Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6 Di LD Macro (for Canon DSLRs). Also available for Nikons, Konica Minolta and Sony and Pentax cameras.
7. Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di II (for Canon DSLRs), Nikon, Konica Minolta and Sony and Pentax.

*Note: as with our previous best seller lists this list was compiled from reports supplied to us from Amazon.com where we are affiliates. One of the ways dPS is able to cover its costs and be a sustainable business is that we earn a small commission when readers make a purchase from Amazon after clicking on our links (including those above). While no personal details are passed on we do get an overall report from Amazon about what was bought and are able to create this list.

The post The Best Selling DSLR Lenses With Our Readers by Darren Rowse appeared first on Digital Photography School.

it's from Digital Photography School http://ift.tt/1QlqrHQ
via Darren Rowse

[Photography] Tips for Photographing Local Parks

Parks are wonderful places to capture fantastic, unique photos. Besides the obvious fauna and flowers, you will often also find people interacting with each other and the environment. All of which can lead to some great photos, to highlight another point of interest at a destination.

Here are some simple tips to try out next time you are heading to a local park:

Check the Rules

Often you will find that local parks (e.g. parks in cities) have guidelines regarding photography. The majority of the time if you do not intend to use the photos for commercial purposes (i.e. they are just for yourself) you will be fine and should have no problem. But, be on the lookout for signs in the park which indicate otherwise. However, if you are intending to sell the images you should check the guidelines and rules that apply. For example some of the Royal parks in London allow photography for editorial use but not commercial. This means the photo can be used when in context to a story, or feature about the park or London, but not advertising something – so make sure you check the rules before selling your images.

Be Selective with Your Photos

One of the great things about parks is the wealth of things you can photograph. Flowers, wildlife, trees, lakes, animals, statues and even people, all offer great opportunities for photos. But instead of trying to photograph everything, think about what the park represents, and is famous for, and focus on a few subjects that will bring it to life. This will mean you end up with a few great photos that really highlight the best attributes rather than a hundred that end up being repetitive.

One of the most iconic things about Hyde Park in London is the Peter Pan statue.

Look for Details

It is often tempting to take photographs that capture everything but sometimes the photos that really stand out are of the details that most people miss. Instead of standing away, move in and get close, and really capture the details of the tree, leaves, flowers or statues. Not only will you end up with wonderfully abstract photos, but they could also end up being great sellers in stock libraries.

Get close to things and completely fill the frame. It provides wonderful abstract results.

Capture Moments

The moment that the couple kiss. The moment the guy playing soccer scores a goal. The moment the birds fly away. These moments are what can make your photos unique and really highlight something different about the park. So be on the lookout for people interacting with each other, nature, and even animals.

The combination of people, nature and wildlife mean there will be ample opportunities to capture those unique moments.

A different prospective of the park showing a completely different story.

Planning is Key

As with any form of travel photography, often you have to be willing to be patient and wait for the right moment to capture your shot. So if you spot a scene where you think it could be improved or the light isn’t right; either sit and wait, or be prepared to come back later in the day. The key is not to cram too much into your shot list for each day so that you enough “waiting” time.

This scene would have been pretty dull without the boy running. But I had to wait for it to happen.

Parks are a great place to practice any form of photography you are interested in. Most often they are easily accessible and with the plethora of subjects on offer to photograph, it means it is easy to hone your skills. Just do your research before hand, and if time permits even scout the park out.

Now it’s your turn. Share your photos, thoughts and tips below.

The post Tips for Photographing Local Parks by Kav Dadfar appeared first on Digital Photography School.

it's from Digital Photography School http://ift.tt/1Q0GLD1
via Kav Dadfar

[Photography] 8 Tips for Photographing Children

Children’s expressions are genuine; they love to live life with passion and abound in energy. When they are happy, their laughter and joy is infectious. They can be the best subjects of all – busy, happy, playful and real. If you’ve ever tried to take photos of kids who were not so crazy about having a camera in their face, you also know that while they are all these wonderful qualities, they can also be difficult and may require a little more planning for a smooth session.

These organizational tips for photographing children will help you prepare yourself for some extended camera time with a child – whether you are a professional photographer prepping for a session with an advanced DSLR, or a parent with a simple point-and-shoot wanting to get some nice shots of your young children.

1. Timing and location

Time of day is really important. A photo session generally works best after a nap and snack when the child is the happiest. Also something to keep in mind is harsh light. Outdoors at midday when the sun is bright and strong is not ideal for photography.

A close second for importance is location. Outside is optimal and allows for lots of space to move around, but if you would prefer indoors (or it’s -40), make sure you have adequate space.

This family found some lovely outdoor locations, and we chose to do the session in the evening. We found the sweet spot between hungry, tired, sleepy kids and soft, flattering natural light.

2. Be prepared

Both you and the little ones want this to go as fast as possible. If you waste too much time floundering around when you could be shooting, children get bored, antsy and quickly lose interest. Make a flexible plan and be prepared before you bring in the child. Have your camera (charged battery, lots of room on a memory card, check your settings) and props ready (hide any toys where they can be easily accessed and only bring them out if or when they are needed). If you are using various backgrounds, know ahead of time the order you would like them in, and make sure they are ready to go.

3. Make a list

Make yourself a list of potential non-posed shots such as: sitting, standing, laying down, playing, running, etc. – your child will not pose the same as the kids in Pinterest photos – and you don’t want them to. Look for ideas and themes, but don’t expect those exact poses. You want the picture to express who they are. Include activities that you have ready, as well as some back-ups such as snacks or a phone. Get any electronics you use to entertain them ready beforehand – their favorite Netflix episode ready-to-go, or an upbeat song already opened in iTunes just waiting for you to click play – however, these should only be options when you are desperate and have tried everything else. Be flexible with your list and ready to throw it out if needed.

4. Get reinforcements

If possible, get some help. Ask your helper to stand directly behind you at first, not to the side – you want to try and get some pictures where the child’s eyes connect with the camera. For little ones your helper can plop them on a chair and quickly move away, while you wait ready with your finger on the shutter – you might only have two seconds to get the shot. Choose someone who can get them smiling and laughing. They will also help you keep your sanity when photographing your own kids.

5. Start with poses

Take the most posed, formal, look-at-the-camera pictures first. For example, a sibling shot where you want them all looking at the camera and smiling. You still might not get it, but this is where you have a chance.

This posed shot was taken at the beginning of their session.

6. Limit movement

Limit their movement at the start: A chair, stool, couch, basket, swing, etc. Just be flexible and don’t force it – a picture somewhere else is better than a red, blotchy, crying face. I will sometimes keep a chair or prop hidden until it’s time to use it. Stick a fun chair down where you want them to be, and see if they naturally head over there to explore. You might get lucky and have them crawl up there on their own. But they might not want to sit on the chair at all – move on, or let them stand holding onto it, or sit on the floor next to it. Come back later if you feel they are not ready. If not, just ditch it. You might have lots of ideas and only actually use a few of them.

Near the beginning of a session is a great time to limit movement using props, chairs, etc. After a while they will want to run around instead of sitting. This little guy wasn’t going for conventional, but that’s okay too – just go with it.

7. Let them play

Let them play after you have tried the formal, posed shots. Don’t try too much posing or force them to sit still; you are in for a battle, and they will likely win. Consider centering the rest of the session around an activity they enjoy, or a new one that you think might be a hit – in the yard with the sprinkler, at the park on the slides, walking along the beach to collect shells and go adventuring, tea party outside, flying a kite, jumping on the trampoline, bucket full of soapy water on the grass, etc. Music can also be helpful – a fun little dance party, maybe? Unless you have a kid that really likes to run far away, outside is an excellent option – kids love to have room to move around, and a big space affords more options.

We were nearing the end of this session and sitting still wasn’t an option anymore. This little guy loved feeding the cows, so over to the cows we went. It was also a way of telling the story of who he is, and what he loves. Sometimes the most cherished pictures don’t have a smile or eyes facing the camera.

8. Relax

Take a deep breath and relax! Kids can sense your stress, and it transfers onto them (and usually makes them do the opposite of what you want).

Do you have any other tips for photography children? Please share in the comments below.

 

The post 8 Tips for Photographing Children by Dawn Bell appeared first on Digital Photography School.

it's from Digital Photography School http://ift.tt/1I1pTaW
via Dawn Bell