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Sep 4, 2020

[Photography] Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Lens for Sony Review

The post Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

The Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 is a lens that Tamron touts as “the lightest and most compact f/2.8 tele zoom for Sony mirrorless.”

It debuted in the summer of 2020, and has a solid build quality and a reasonable price point, similar to the rest of Tamron’s recent lens offerings.

But how does the image quality stack up? Let’s find out.

Recent Tamron lenses

Tamron has been on a roll with its Sony E-mount lens releases lately.

The recently released 70-180mm f/2.8 completed Tamron’s holy trinity of fast zooms (the others being the Tamron 17-28mm f/2.8 and the Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8). All three of these lenses have been massively popular due to their solid builds, compact sizes, and affordable prices relative to their Sony G Master equivalents. Additionally, Tamron has released a handful of other fast prime lenses, including the Tamron 35mm f/2.8.

Tamron 28-200mm specs

The Tamron 28-200mm is a full-frame autofocus lens for Sony E-mount cameras. While it can be used with Sony APS-C cameras, it is best used with a full-frame camera. All sample images in this post were taken with the Sony a7R III.

Focal Length: 28 to 200mm
Maximum Aperture: f/2.8 to f/5.6
Minimum Aperture: f/16 to f/32
Angle of View: 75° 23′ to 12° 21′
Minimum Focus Distance: 7.5″ (19.05 cm)
Optical Design: 18 Elements in 14 Groups
Diaphragm Blades: 7, Rounded
Image Stabilization: No
Filter Size: 67 mm (Front)
Dimensions (ø x L): 2.91 x 4.6″ (74 x 116.8 mm)
Weight: 1.27 lb (575.5 g)

Pros

Small and lightweight

Variable aperture lenses are often looked down upon by photographers, because you can’t retain a fast f-stop when you zoom in. This means shooting at 200mm on the 28-200mm will force you to shoot at f/5.6, making it much more difficult to shoot in low lighting. However, variable aperture lenses are generally much smaller and weigh less compared to zoom lenses with constant apertures.

Indeed, the Tamron 28-200mm is incredibly small and light given its focal range. This makes it a great lens for travel or landscape photographers who work with ample light and don’t mind sacrificing a fast aperture at all focal lengths.

Simple and easy to use

Like many recent Tamron lenses, the 28-200mm is very straightforward, with a single physical switch to lock the lens and keep it from sliding out when not in use.

Other than that, it’s an intuitive plug and play lens that works exceptionally well with Sony E-mount cameras. All autofocus features, including face detection and eye autofocus (for both people and animals), were fast and accurate; the lens performs well on Sony cameras.

Moisture resistant

The build quality is solid without adding lots of weight. The Tamron 28-200mm is moisture-resistant for use in wet conditions, and also has a fluorine coating on the front lens element to prevent dust and dirt build-up.

Speaking of the front lens element, the filter size is 67mm, exactly the same as the three lenses in the Tamron holy trinity. This makes it easy to interchange filters such as polarizers and ND filters among these lenses if you buy into the full Tamron lens system.

Five- or six-year extended warranty

This is a bonus that comes with all Tamron lenses. If you register the Tamron 28-200mm lens within two months of purchasing it, you get an extended six-year warranty if you are in the USA, or a five-year warranty if you are in Europe.

Compared to Sony’s one-year warranty, this is a pretty big advantage when going with a Tamron lens.

Great image quality

So with all of the great points about this lens, how is the image quality?

It’s surprisingly good for a variable-aperture lens. Bokeh or lens blur is soft and pleasing, especially at longer focal lengths. Image sharpness is phenomenal, although admittedly not as crisp as a prime lens. And chromatic aberration, or color fringing, which often plagues all-in-one zoom lenses, is not a problem on this lens.

Similarly, 4K video shot with this lens also boasts great image quality, which leads us to the next section of the article.

Cons

No image stabilization

Unfortunately, none of Tamron’s recent Sony E-mount lenses come with image stabilization. This feature is likely withheld to keep lenses smaller and more affordable, but it means that the Tamron 28-200mm is not an optimal lens for video or shooting handheld in low light. If you use the lens with a camera that has in-body image stabilization (IBIS), this can help make up for the lack of lens-based image stabilization. But in my experience, it’s always best to have a camera with IBIS and a lens with image stabilization.

On the plus side, this lens is lightweight enough that you could use it on a gimbal for video work, as long as you can balance it out when shooting at longer focal lengths.

Variable aperture

While the Tamron 28-200mm does give you a fast f/2.8 aperture when shooting on the wide end, the more you zoom in, the slower the aperture gets.

This may not be a big deal-breaker if you tend to shoot in scenarios with tons of natural or artificial lighting. However, if you shoot a lot in low light, the variable aperture might bother you.

Comparison to the Sony 24-240mm

The most direct competitor to the Tamron 28-200mm is the long-standing Sony 24-240mm f/3.5-6.3 lens. This Sony lens is very close in size to the Tamron, although it is slightly heavier, coming in at 780 g (1.72 lb) compared to 575 g (1.27 lb).

However, the Sony 24-240mm does offer slightly more range than the Tamron, plus it has OSS, or optical image stabilization. The OSS comes in handy if you shoot video, or like to have extra support when shooting handheld. The Sony lens does cost more, at $1,085 USD, but it has been out for so long that used versions of the lens can be had for prices similar to that of the Tamron.

If you value the extra range and OSS, the Sony may be the better all-in-one lens for you. However, it is quite a bit heavier than the Tamron and also has a significantly shorter warranty.

Sample image gallery

The post Tamron 28-200mm f/2.8-5.6 Di III RXD Lens for Sony Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

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Sep 3, 2020

[Photography] Tips For Making Someone Comfortable in Front of the Camera

The post Tips For Making Someone Comfortable in Front of the Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

For many photographers, making someone comfortable in front of the camera is a huge challenge. It’s often so difficult that they shy away from photographing people altogether. Or they only photograph people candidly with a long lens.

Much has been written about camera control, composition, and other aspects of photography. These things require no relationship skills.

But when you photograph people, making your subject comfortable is often essential.

Woman holding chilli pepper as a prop for making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 105mm | 1/320s | f/3.2 | ISO 400

When a person does not like having their photo taken, it shows in their expression. Your camera captures this. That’s why you need to help your subject overcome their anxiety about being photographed (which is particularly difficult for shy photographers).

Here are fifteen tips for making someone comfortable in front of your camera.

Tip #1: Provide instructions before the photo session

Prepare your subject before the photo shoot. Talk about what they will wear. Suggest the best time of day.

Take into account the timing. Will they be needing to rush away to another appointment? Having plenty of time is helpful.

Woman with Northern Thai Sausage — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 105mm | 1/10s| f/4.5 | ISO 100

Tip #2: Prepare ideas for what you want to do

Turning up to a portrait session with no ideas is not a good way of making someone comfortable. Talk with your subject prior to the photo session and share some of your ideas.

Talk with them about what they want. Tell them your ideas for the portrait session, and ask if they have anything specific in mind.

Be positive, even if you don’t like what they are suggesting. If you follow through with their suggestions, it will help them feel included. They’ll then be more likely to relax and enjoy themselves.

Woman cutting a man's moustache making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 105mm | 1/200s | f/14 | ISO 640

Tip #3: Choose a good location where your subject will be comfortable

You may use a certain location because you love it. But your subject may not like it at all. Check with them first.

There’s no point picking a place to photograph that will make your subject uncomfortable.

Often, it’s best to find somewhere away from where other people will be. If your subject is uncomfortable being photographed, they will not want to do the session in a location where others can see the process.

Ballet Dancing young woman - making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 105mm | 1/160s | f/2.5 | ISO 500

Tip #4: Be early to your photo session

Arrive at the location of your photo session plenty of time before your subject does. Scope out the location. How is the lighting? What will be in the background? Figure out the best combination of these things and some places to position the person you’re photographing.

This may not seem relevant to making someone comfortable, but it is. The more you can sort out these issues in advance, the more you’ll be able to give your attention to your subject when they arrive.

Close up of woman with an elephant - making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 35mm |1/2500s | f/2 | ISO 640

Tip #5: Have your gear set up and ready

Make sure your camera equipment is set and ready to use. Are your camera batteries charged? Do you have enough space on your cards? Will you need to use your flash or a reflector?

Know what exposure mode you’ll use. Set up your camera as much as possible before the person you’re photographing even arrives.

Having your gear set and ready to use allows you to concentrate more on your subject and on other aspects of photography. Making someone comfortable requires you to pay more attention to the subject than to your camera.

Hmong Amputee sitting outside his home — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 35mm | 1/125 | f/4.5 | ISO 800

Tip #6: Take time to connect with your subject

Be there for your subject and let them know it. Don’t rush in and start taking photos immediately. Spending time having a conversation will help them relax and build confidence in you.

Focus the conversation on them and keep it positive. Don’t discuss how difficult it was to find parking, and don’t discuss politics. These topics are not uplifting and will not help make someone comfortable.

Show you are interested in who they are. Asking people questions shows you care about your subject and will help build their confidence.

Woman with a melting ice creammaking someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 105mm | 1/200s | f/9 | ISO 100

Tip #7: Coach your subject

Explain to your subject that when they’re stressed, this will show in the photographs. You know they need to relax and why, but they may not know this. You need to take some time to explain it to them.

People often don’t look the same way in a photograph as they do in the mirror. Even if they’re stressed and see their reflection in a mirror, it’s different than the way they will look when being photographed if they are not relaxed. They will not like what they see in the photos. It’s vital that you overcome this, and explaining your reasons will often help matters.

If you get the sense that a person is uncomfortable being photographed, talk to them about it before the photo session. Then remind them again before you start taking photos. Give them time to think about what you’ve said and continue your conversation. It’s almost like giving someone a mental massage to help their mind relax.

Looking down at a woman on the sidewalk — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 50mm | 1/10s | f/11 | ISO 100

Tip #8: Remind your subject how good they look

Frequently commenting on how good a person looks will help them have confidence and feel more relaxed. Be careful to be genuine. Notice moments when your subject is more open and carefree. These are the times to compliment them as you are taking their photographs.

Tell them how happy you are with the photos you are taking. Talk to them about their smile and how good their hair looks. Mention positive aspects about the clothing they have chosen. Talk about how nice they look in a certain pose.

Don’t overdo the compliments or you’ll start to sound fake. Keep it balanced and be gentle but honest if something doesn’t look right.

Mad Scientist Rubber Gloves — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 35mm | 1/125s | f/9 | ISO 100

Tip #9: Fix hair and clothing

You can almost always find some aspect of a person’s hair or clothing that needs a little tweaking. Even when you can’t see anything out of place, tweak anyway!

Paying attention to these details and putting them right does two things. It’ll make your photos better, and it will help make your subject comfortable. They will feel good that you’re paying attention to them and you’re focused on making them look good.

Woman taking a photo with her phone - making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 105mm | 1/125s | f/2.8 | ISO 500

Tip #10: Start with a long(ish) lens

Put a little distance between your camera and your subject. Getting too close may not be comfortable for them. Using a 105mm or 135mm lens will provide a convenient distance.

Don’t use a monster of a lens. This can be intimidating. It’s one reason I am not a fan of 70-200mm f/2.8 zooms; they are so bulky and can be off-putting.

A little further into the photo session, you can consider coming in closer with a 50mm or 35mm lens. The person you’re photographing will need to feel good about you being this close. If they are comfortable at closer distances, your photos will be more intimate than ones taken with a long lens.

Senior Akha Man portrait on a black background - making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 135mm | 1/125s | f/4.5 | ISO 320

Tip #11: Show your subject the photos you’re taking

The monitor on the back of a digital camera is a great tool for making someone comfortable. When you show them how good they’re looking, it’ll build their confidence.

This young woman was surprisingly uncomfortable when I came to photograph her and some of her friends. She was part of a drama group, and I’d observed her confidence on stage in front of a crowd. But the self-assurance was missing when she was in front of my camera for the first time. Once I’d taken a few good photos, I showed them to her. She was impressed, so she immediately relaxed and enjoyed the photo session greatly.

Asian Woman Jumping - making someone comfortable — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 35mm | 1/400s | f/5 | ISO 400

Tip #12: Slow down

Take time to do what you do well. Don’t be in a rush. Work carefully. Check your camera settings. Review your photos and make changes when you need to. Don’t work so fast you miss when you are making mistakes (because they will happen).

Plan for the photo session to last more time than you think it will. If you have extra time at the end, buy the person you’re photographing a coffee. This might be another opportunity for a few more nice pictures of them.

Close up portrait of a man — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 35mm | 1/100s | f/4 | ISO 100

Tip #13: Provide some form of distraction

Use props or another person to help draw attention away from yourself and your camera. When someone is nervous about being photographed, it can help when they are distracted. They are more likely to look relaxed and natural when they are not paying attention to your camera.

When photographing a bride at a wedding, I’d often get the groom to stand just behind me and have him talk to his bride. There’s no way I’d get the same look from a bride as when she’s looking at her groom.

For this photo, I asked the subject to pretend to talk on her phone, as I thought this might help. It worked very well. Later she told me that she had actually called a friend and was talking to her, so she was totally distracted.

Asian Businesswoman Phone Call — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 105mm | 1/640s | f/2.5 | ISO 200

Tip #14: Genuinely have fun!

Have a nice manner and be positive; this will help you inject some fun into the photo session. When people are happy and relaxed, you’ll certainly get better photos of them.

Come up with some things that you can talk about or funny stories you can tell. Try to laugh together when things don’t go exactly as planned. If you have a positive attitude, this will rub off on the person you are photographing.

Two Thai girls in the studio — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D800 | 50mm | 1/125s | f/9 | ISO 200

Tip #15: Be confident and your subject will be confident in return

Confidence in what you are doing is vital. Don’t be brash and boastful. Don’t bamboozle people with your photography knowledge or with how good your camera is. Just use your camera with certainty. If you are stressed and nervous yourself, the person you are photographing will feel uncomfortable.

Being quietly confident in what you’re doing, even if you’re a shy photographer, will help your subjects relax. Your mood and attitude will be reflected back to you by the people you are photographing.

Woman and Elephants — © Kevin Landwer-Johan Nikon D700 | 105mm | 1/100s | f/11 | ISO 400

Conclusion

Making someone comfortable is as important as getting your camera settings correct. So often I see portraits of people where it’s obvious they were not relaxed. As a photographer, it’s your mission to ensure the person you’re taking pictures of looks good. Much of this depends on how relaxed and confident the subject feels.

And I am not satisfied with the portraits I take unless my subject is, too.

Let me know in the comments below which of these tips you find the most helpful. Please also share other techniques you use for making someone comfortable when you are photographing them.

The post Tips For Making Someone Comfortable in Front of the Camera appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

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Sep 2, 2020

[Photography] 5 Reasons to Get Photoshop Express on Your Phone

The post 5 Reasons to Get Photoshop Express on Your Phone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Adobe has developed many Photoshop apps, but none are as popular as the desktop version (Photoshop CC). That said, maybe it’s time for this to change, at least for one of Adobe’s apps: Photoshop Express.

In this article, I’ll tell you five reasons why I recommend you give Photoshop Express a try.

Adobe decided to introduce three different apps to cover the full range of editing that Photoshop can offer: Photoshop Fix, Photoshop Mix, and Photoshop Express. In this article, I’m going to talk about Photoshop Express, and why I believe it’s worth downloading.

1. It’s free

Unlike the desktop version of Photoshop, you don’t need a Creative Cloud subscription in order to use Photoshop Express.

You can download the app for free, and you’ll get access to all the features and updates.

You do have to create an Adobe account, though (one that also allows you to use a limited version of Lightroom Mobile).

2. It’s social

A very important thing for a photo editing app is the social aspect. You want to snap and share photos with ease.

Adobe took this into account when designing the cropping tool. With Photoshop Express, you can crop your images using the array of predetermined sizes for Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, LinkedIn, Etsy, and most other major social networks.

For example: When cropping for Facebook, you can choose from the Page Cover, the Event Cover, the Profile Cover, the Profile, or the Ad.

Photoshop Express Social Media Crop Sizes

Of course, you can then share your photo directly from the app. From there, you can also add a watermark, send the image to Creative Cloud if you are a subscriber, send the image to a printer, and more.

3. You control size and compression

Unlike many other editing apps, Photoshop Express lets you choose the size and quality of your file before saving or sharing it.

You can set a default JPEG Quality and a default Image Size in the Preferences of the app. To set this up, tap on the menu (in the top-left corner). Then go to Preferences and then Save Options.

You can also change size and quality in the final stage of your saving or sharing process. Before you choose the destination of your image, click on the settings below the thumbnail (so you can modify them).

4. You can work with RAW files

A RAW file is like a digital negative. It saves the information from the shot prior to processing; that way, you have much more to work with when you’re editing, and the quality will be superior.

Of course, this means that the file size will be bigger, so keep an eye on your storage space. If you have a camera, you probably know that each brand has its own RAW files. For example, Canon uses CRW/CR2/CR3, while Nikon uses NEF/NRW. A standard and open-source RAW format is a DNG file, which is what you get if you shoot using Lightroom Mobile.

Post processing RAW Files in Photoshop Express — On the left, you can see how a RAW file is clearly marked in the gallery. That one was shot using the camera from Lightroom Mobile. On the right, you see the post-processed version of that file (edited using Photoshop Express).

5. You can do all your post-processing

Last but not least, the editing capabilities of Photoshop Express are top-notch. After all, the app was created by a company that has been leading the post-processing market for decades.

That said, Photoshop Express won’t reach the level of editing that you can do with the desktop version of Photoshop. That’s why there are three apps.

However, if you consider that Photoshop Express is free and won’t take up all your phone storage space, it’s actually very good.

Photoshop Express post production — Snapshot made with a Redmi Note 8, later post-processed in Photoshop Express.

Also, Photoshop Express includes many presets for looks, effects, stickers, frames, etc. That way, you can do some serious post-processing, or you can just create fun posts for your social media feed.

Conclusion

With so many editing apps on the market, it’s difficult to make a choice; sometimes you end up downloading a different app for each purpose.

However, Photoshop Express has proven to be an all-purpose and well-rounded app.

And if you have an iPhone, you’ll get some additional features.

Share in the comments if you decide to try Photoshop Express, and let me know what you think.

The post 5 Reasons to Get Photoshop Express on Your Phone appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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Sep 1, 2020

[Photography] 5 List-Making Exercises to Improve Creativity in Photography

The post 5 List-Making Exercises to Improve Creativity in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

We’ve all made lists before: shopping lists, to-do lists, Christmas lists, and more. List-making can be a valuable asset to photography, too. In this article, we’ll look at the benefits of list-making, how it can improve creativity, and some effective list-making exercises.

The benefits of list-making

List-making can improve creativity in a number of ways. For example, many of us tend to remember tasks that need to be done better than we remember the tasks we’ve completed. This can generate a feeling of being overwhelmed, which can lead to something called task paralysis. Making lists provides a visual reminder of our progress over a period of time, inspiring creative momentum and a sense of accomplishment.

In addition, a recent study has shown that the simple act of jotting down a list of to-dos is enough to ease the anxiousness brought on by incomplete tasks. List-making also encourages brainstorming, a pillar of the creative process. By creating an accessible layout of tasks and ideas, lists give goals a certain tangibility, facilitating active steps towards a positive creative outcome.

List #1: Things I don’t know (and how to learn them)

I’ll admit that a things I don’t know list sounds a little pessimistic at first. But identifying areas you know little about is the best way to target gaps in your own practice.

Take a bit of paper, use a list-making app, open a Word document, or select a page from a notebook (whatever works), and start listing the facets of photography you want/need to know more about. You can list anything, from art theory to photography tricks to post-processing techniques. Next, pair your points with a few words about how you might actively bridge these knowledge gaps.

Here’s an example:

You’ll see that I’ve added timelines to each point on the list, too. Adding a timeline helps bolster your commitment to incorporate the listed tasks into a creative routine.

Naturally, the time you assign to each goal will depend on your daily habits and the goal itself. Just remember that any dedicated length of time invested in your practice is far better than investing no time at all. If you aren’t sure about your timeline, start small and make adjustments incrementally.

Put your list somewhere visible as a reminder of your goals. As you progress, make additions or amendments to your list; your plan should always be open to change. You could even create a checklist to help improve creativity and to map the trajectory of your creative growth.

List #2: Subjects I want to photograph (but haven’t yet)

We all have subjects we would love to photograph, but haven’t yet. Making a list of subjects you aspire to photograph is a productive way to set goals that will broaden and improve creativity.

To start a subjects I want to photograph list, first type/write out some realistic subjects that you would like to photograph in the short and/or long term. Next, add some necessities that will facilitate these goals. Will you need particular equipment? Additional experience in the field? A passport? Savings? Research? List anything that comes to mind. Here’s a quick example:

Note that I have added research to each individual goal. Solid research is fundamental to most photographic undertakings. To tease out what particulars you might need to research, you can use the things I don’t know list!

Once you have your outline, you’re free to break down your list into more detailed segments. For example, you could plan a budget for acquiring suitable equipment. Some goals will be more long-term than others, but having a list will enable you to take decisive steps toward successfully photographing your dream subject.

List #3: Creatives that inspire

There are many artists that inspire my creative practice. So many, in fact, that it can be hard to keep track. That’s where list number number three comes in.

Making a thoughtfully curated list of creatives that inspire and motivate your practice is a great way to maintain momentum and stimulate ideas. From recording your favorite photographers in an alphabetical Excel spreadsheet to noting the names of impactful artists in a visual diary, creating a list of inspirational creatives provides an accessible point-of-reference that can improve creativity in a lull.

List #4: Photography goals

Making a photography goals list is a lot like making a subjects I want to photograph list. The idea is to lay out goals paired with actionable steps to achieve a desired creative outcome. Here is a quick example:

Again, you can break down your actionable steps even further by creating checklists, budgets, or timelines. List-making rewards persistence while focusing and improving creativity; it also emphasizes the value of each step toward an overall creative objective. Keep your list somewhere you’ll see it regularly and use it as a compass and a source of inspiration when goals seem far away.

List #5: Why I love photography

Like most things, photography has its ups and downs. When things go right and inspiration flows, it can be smooth sailing. But when things go wrong, you can start to feel the pressure of creative fatigue. Fortunately, lists are a great way to help ease the burden of a creative dry spell.

The why I love photography list is an opportunity to reflect on what it is that makes you do what you do as a photographer. What made you fall in love with photography in the first place? How does photography inspire you? What do you love about your favorite subject matter? How has photography positively impacted your life? What drives you to make your next shot?

There are so many reasons people fall in love with photographic image-making, and listing them creates something concrete to draw upon when needed, helping you to improve creativity and clear the fog of artistic fatigue.

Conclusion

Lists aren’t just great for remembering things; they’re an opportunity to improve creativity and expand creative practice. Lists give order to chaos, they provide a plan to work through, and they supply proof of what has been achieved.

By making lists, we can reinforce ideas, formulate goals, and track sources of inspiration and success. Happy listing!

The post 5 List-Making Exercises to Improve Creativity in Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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