[Photography] Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples)

The post Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

What is aperture in photography? How does it work? And how can you use it to capture photos like the pros?

Aperture is an essential camera setting; in my opinion, it’s where the magic happens in photography. So in this article, I’m going to take you through all the ins and outs of aperture, including:

• What aperture actually is (in simple, easy-to-understand terms)
• How you can use aperture to capture artistic images
• How to choose the perfect aperture for landscape photography, portrait photography, and more
• Plenty of other tips and tricks!

If you can master aperture, then you’ll gain a huge amount of creative control over your photography.

Ready to take your photos to the next level?

Let’s dive right in, starting with the most important question of all:

What is aperture?

Aperture is the opening in the camera lens. A larger hole allows more light to hit the sensor, lightening your photos. A smaller hole allows less light to hit the sensor, darkening your photos.

And by adjusting the aperture setting on your camera, you can adjust the size of the aperture (and, in turn, affect a photo’s brightness).

The aperture is that (bladed) hole inside your lens!

Aperture and f-stops

Aperture is measured in terms of f-stops, also known as f-numbers. Like this: f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/22, etc.

As shown in the diagram below, the smaller the f-number, the larger the aperture hole:

As the f-number increases, the aperture size decreases.

Now, each full stop corresponds to a halving of aperture size. So when you go from f/2.8 to f/4, you cut the aperture in half. And when you go from f/4 to f/5.6, you cut the aperture in half again.

(Of course, to double the aperture size, you just go in the reverse direction: from f/5.6 to f/4, and from f/4 to f/2.8.)

So f/2.8 is a much larger aperture than f/22. And f/11 is a much smaller aperture than f/4.

Does that make sense? It can be confusing at first, especially because large aperture sizes correspond to smaller f-stop numbers and vice versa. But stick with it, and it’ll become second nature.

How does aperture affect your photos?

At this point in the article, you should know what aperture is: a hole in the lens that increases and decreases depending on your camera settings (i.e., your f-stop value).

But what does aperture actually do? How does it affect your photos?

In the next two sections, I’ll discuss the primary effects of aperture:

1. Exposure
2. Depth of field

Aperture and exposure

As you may already know, exposure refers to the brightness of a photo.

In general, the goal is to end up with a photo that’s not too dark and not too bright; instead, you want a shot that’s just right, one with lots of detail.

So where does aperture come into play?

Aperture is one of the three key variables that affect your exposure. (The other two variables are shutter speed and ISO.)

Remember what I said above? By widening the aperture, you let in more light, which brightens your image. And by narrowing the aperture, you let in less light, which darkens your image.

So if you’re photographing a beautiful sunset and your photos keep turning out too bright, you can always narrow the aperture to darken down the image. (In fact, using a narrow aperture is often a good idea when shooting sunsets!)

A sunset scene like this will often benefit from a narrow aperture.

And if you’re photographing a forest and your photos keep turning out dark and shadowy, you can always widen the aperture to brighten up the image. (As you might expect, this is a standard low-light photography practice.)

If you’re photographing a subject in the shade, a wider aperture will brighten things up.

Of course, aperture isn’t the only variable that affects exposure. If you want to brighten a photo, you can also lower the shutter speed or boost the ISO. And if you want to darken a photo, you can raise the shutter speed or drop the ISO.

In terms of exposure, widening your aperture by a full stop has the exact same effect as lowering your shutter speed by a full stop or boosting your ISO by a full stop. A key consequence of this: different exposure variables can cancel each other out. Increase your ISO by a stop while decreasing your aperture by a stop, and you’ll end up with an identical exposure.

The point here is that, while aperture does determine exposure, you can’t think about it in isolation. Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO work together to give you a well-exposed (or poorly exposed) image.

Aperture and depth of field

Aperture also affects the depth of field in your photos.

What exactly does that mean? Well, depth of field (DOF) is the amount of your shot that is in focus. So a photo with a large depth of field will have most of the image in focus, like this:

Do you see how sharpness stretches from the foreground to the background? That’s thanks to the large depth of field.

A photo with a small depth of field, on the other hand, will have only a sliver in focus, like this:

As you can see, the effect is pretty artistic; you get a sharp subject but a blurry background. Neat, right? Because a blurry background helps the subject to stand out, this is an effect you’ll often see in portrait photography.

As for aperture, the wider the aperture (and the smaller the f-number!), the shallower the depth of field.

So an image with an f/2.8 aperture will have very little in focus:

And an image with an f/16 aperture will have all of the scene in focus:

Got it? If you’re still struggling to understand – and if you are, don’t be embarrassed! – let me illustrate using two pictures I took in my garden:

The first picture was taken with an aperture of f/22, while the second picture was shot at f/2.8. The difference is obvious, right? The f/22 picture has both the flower and the bud in focus and you’re able to make out the fence and leaves in the background. Whereas the f/2.8 shot has the left flower in focus, but the right flower is less in focus and the background is completely blurry.

That’s all thanks to aperture, which controls the depth of field.

4 simple aperture examples

Here are a handful of additional aperture examples to help you wrap your head around its effects – in particular, how aperture affects the depth of field.

First, take a look at this landscape shot. It was captured with a narrow aperture, which resulted in a deep depth of field and sharpness throughout:

Now take a look at this street photo, which was taken with a wide aperture; it has a shallow depth of field:

And here’s a third example, which has a midrange depth of field. The entire photo isn’t sharp, but the main subject plus some of the surrounding area look crisp:

Finally, here’s one more example with an ultra-wide aperture for an ultra-shallow depth of field:

What’s important to know is that the aperture offers you creative control as a photographer. Want to create a blurry background? Pick a wide aperture. Want to keep your shot sharp throughout? Pick a narrow aperture.

Of course, you also have to remember the effect of aperture on exposure, which is what makes things a bit more complex (but a lot more fun!).

Adjusting the aperture on your camera

Now that you’ve made it this far, you might be wondering:

How can you actually change the aperture on your camera? What do you have to do?

Fortunately, adjusting the aperture is easy. You just set your camera’s shooting mode to Manual or Aperture Priority. Then rotate the relevant camera dial to change the f-number. (The specific dial will depend on your camera model; if you’re struggling, consult your manual.)

Which aperture is best?

When photographers first learn about aperture, this is a question that crops up constantly.

But as you’ve hopefully gleaned from the sections above, there is no single best aperture that you can use all the time. Sometimes you’ll want a deep depth of field or you’ll want to darken down a too-bright shot, in which case you’ll need to use a narrow aperture. Other times you’ll want a shallow depth of field or you’ll want to brighten up a too-dark shot, in which case you’ll need to use a wide aperture.

That said…

There are apertures that get used consistently in certain genres. I’ll cover them briefly below, starting with:

The best landscape photography aperture

Landscape photographers gravitate toward small aperture settings, such as f/8, f/11, and even f/16.

Why?

When you’re shooting a sweeping photo of the land, sea, or sky, you often want to keep the whole shot sharp. That way, the viewer can appreciate every little detail of your majestic scene.

Landscape photos like this one generally require a narrow aperture.

Plus, a deep depth of field makes the shot feel more real, like the viewer could physically step into the scene.

The best portrait photography aperture

In portrait photography, it can be handy to have your subject perfectly in focus but the background nice and blurry. That way, your main subject stands out and the background doesn’t become a distraction.

Wide apertures work great for portraits!

In other words, use a large aperture to ensure a shallow depth of field.

It’s a trick used by family portrait photographers, headshot photographers, fashion photographers, and more.

The best macro photography aperture

Macro (i.e., close-up) photographers tend to disagree over aperture.

Some macro photographers use a very narrow aperture because depth of field gets shallower at high magnifications. And by using a narrow aperture, a macro photographer can ensure that their entire subject is in focus, even if the background is blurred.

This macro photo was shot at f/13; at such high magnifications, keeping an entire insect in focus is tough.

Whereas other macro photographers embrace a shallow depth of field. They use a very wide aperture for a soft-focus effect.

A soft-focus effect looks great in macro photography.

Which is the way to go? That depends on your preferences! Both approaches work well, and there are plenty of professionals using each technique, so don’t stress about it too much.

Aperture in photography: final words

Hopefully, you now have a good understanding of aperture in photography and how you can use it to gain creative control over your photos.

But if you’re still a little confused, that’s okay. Grab your camera and do some experimenting. Find a subject – an apple works great! – and shoot it with different apertures. Watch as the depth of field changes.

Pretty soon, it’ll click. And your photos will (genuinely!) never be the same again.

The post Aperture in Photography: A Beginner’s Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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[Photography] 10 Best Lenses for Landscape Photography (in 2021)

The post 10 Best Lenses for Landscape Photography (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

If you want to take beautiful landscape photos, you need to choose your lens carefully. After all, a lens determines the quality of your image; pick a good lens, and you have the potential for amazing results. But get the lens wrong, and your images will be consistently unsatisfying.

That’s why, in this article, I’ll take you through all the best lenses for landscape photography you can buy today – including options for Canon, Nikon, Sony, and Fujifilm, as well as choices at every price point.

So without further ado, here are our recommendations of top-notch landscape lenses, starting with the number one pick:

1. Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM

If you use Canon full-frame DSLRs, then the 16-35mm f/4L IS USM is an excellent choice; it carries the prestigious L-series label and features a very nice focal range and sharp image quality.

There is an f/2.8 version of this lens, but the f/4 version gives equally stunning results and comes with a cheaper price tag. It’s a fast and dynamic lens with an ultrasonic focus system and a minimum focusing distance of 11 inches (0.28 meters), perfect for photographing close foreground subjects. Plus, the 4-stops of image stabilization and great in-built weather sealing allow you to capture sharp landscape photos in all lighting and weather.

If you want to create stunning images of expansive scenes, then this is one of the best landscape lenses on the market in 2021.

2. Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L IS USM

The Canon RF 15-35mm f/2.8L is the ultimate lens for landscape photographers looking to give their images a professional edge. It’s a great match for Canon mirrorless users, although there is a huge hike in price compared to the Canon EF 16-35mm f/4 (featured above).

The 15-35mm is a joy to use, and photographers will love its edge-to-edge sharpness, amazing image quality, and superbly silent and fast autofocus. The lens promises image stabilization of up to five stops, which is a big deal if you plan to shoot landscapes handheld in low light.

Overall, the RF 15-35mm f/2.8L is a landscape photographer’s dream, thanks to its ideal focal length and great all-around performance.

3. Nikon AF-S 16-35mm f/4G ED VR

The Nikon 16-35mm f/4G is one of the best landscape lenses for full-frame Nikon DSLR users, and a perfect match for photographers in search of that beautiful wide-angle perspective.

The lens is both portable and durable, plus it packs great Vibration Reduction for low-light handheld photography. The 16-35mm focal length range is ideal for landscape photography and allows you to shoot stunning near-far compositions for pro-level results. It is also (relatively) inexpensive, compact, and much lighter than most f/2.8 zooms (at 24 oz/680 g).

The lens accommodates filters with a 77mm thread – a standard filter size that will please a lot of photographers. And the lens optics are beautifully designed to enhance sharpness and contrast.

4. Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 S

The Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 lens was Nikon’s first ultra-wide-angle zoom for Z-mount cameras, and it remains one of the best landscape lenses for Nikon full-frame mirrorless cameras in 2021.

The 14-30mm f/4 is lightweight, and it’s also extremely portable. It supports direct filter attachment to the front of the lens, which expands the creative possibilities for ultra-wide landscape photography. It’s well designed with resistance to dust and water and features fabulous optics for clear and sharp shots.

Ultimately, the compact design and incredible corner-to-corner sharpness make the Nikon 14-30mm f/4 a lens worth considering.

5. Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS

The Fujifilm 10-24mm f/4 lens is one of the best lenses for Fujifilm X-mount cameras, and an excellent landscape photography lens for many reasons.

Key features include enhanced optical image stabilization, an elegant design, improved weather sealing, an ultra-wide-angle view and focal range, and silent shooting. This wide-angle zoom feels and looks fabulous and offers great image sharpness across the focal range. The construction is good quality, and you get a minimum focusing distance of 9 inches (0.24 meters).

Thanks to the ultra-wide angle of view, the 10-24mm f/4 provides gorgeous landscape possibilities for APS-C users.

6. Sony E 10-18mm f/4 OSS

Coupled with Sony’s E-mount cameras, the 10-18mm f/4 is a super wide-angle zoom lens, though bear in mind that it’s designed to work with APS-C cameras only (its focal length equivalent is 15-27mm).

The superior glass provides optimal optical performance, with excellent contrast and sharp image quality, even at the 10mm focal length. It is one of the best-quality landscape lenses for APS-C Sony mirrorless users out there, plus it’s small and lightweight (it only weighs 7.9 oz/225 grams).

The Optical SteadyShot feature keeps handheld shots blur-free, and the constant f/4 maximum aperture is decent enough for noise-free shooting in low light. Its minimum focus distance of 10 inches (0.25 meters) and attractive zoom range let you capture expansive landscapes with precision.

7. Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR

One of the biggest reasons to grab the Fujifilm 16-55mm f/2.8 for landscape photography is its versatility – it features a fantastic focal length range, from wide-angle to short telephoto, along with an excellent maximum aperture for astrophotography.

It also offers the opportunity to capture the landscape with real accuracy; as you can imagine, optical performance is top-notch, and thanks to the f/2.8 aperture, sharp results are practically guaranteed, even in low light.

The Fujifilm 16-55mm f/2.8 is suitable for landscape photographers in search of an all-around performer, especially someone who requires quality, precision, and sharpness across a wide focal range.

8. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM

Yes, it’s on the pricey side, but the greatest benefit of the 24-70mm f/2.8 lens for landscape shooters is the versatile focal range offered for shoots. At 24mm, you can capture beautiful wide-angle images; at 70mm, you can shoot intimate landscapes, close-up scenes, and more.

Astrophotographers will love the f/2.8 maximum aperture, which allows for a low ISO when photographing the night sky.

Bottom line: The 24-70mm f/2.8 is an incredibly sharp lens, and if you can afford it, buy it. For those who want to spend less cash, Canon offers a cheaper f/4 version.

9. Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II

With a versatile zoom range that extends beyond the 24-70mm lens featured above, the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L packs a punch in terms of focal length range, image quality, and edge-to-edge sharpness.

Thanks to the extra reach on the telephoto end, you can zoom in to highlight specific landscape features and create more intimate, even abstract images. But you can always capture standard landscapes in the 24-35mm range, and the image stabilization ensures you can shoot in lower light without a tripod.

10. Sony FE 70-200mm f/4 G OSS

If you’re a Sony mirrorless shooter, the 70-200mm f/4 G is a great choice; it’s a telephoto zoom lens with a constant f/4 maximum aperture, and it delivers great image quality with wonderful background bokeh.

While the focal length range sits squarely in the “telephoto” arena, you can use the 70-200mm to hone in on various elements of the landscape (and potentially even wildlife, too!).

It is a fast lens and performs well out in the field, especially when coupled with its image stabilization and f/4 maximum aperture, both of which allow for improved performance in low light.

The best lens for landscape photography: final words

There are quite a few excellent lenses for landscape photography, far too many to list – but I hope this article has been helpful, and that you can now confidently choose the best landscape lens for you.

Ultimately, the ideal lens comes down to your own individual needs and budget, so don’t feel pressure to choose the most expensive or most popular option. Instead, think about your camera model (and its corresponding lens compatibility), as well as features such as image quality, build quality, image stabilization, focal length, and more.

Briefly, the Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L and the Nikon Z 14-30mm f/4 S lenses are excellent choices for those looking for a mix of price and quality. The Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS II and the Sony FE 70-200mm f/4 G are great if you love to capture a range of landscape shots from wide-angle to telephoto. Finally, for anyone looking for a budget-friendly landscape lens, the Sony E 10-18mm f/4 OSS is a reasonable buy.

Now over to you:

Do you have a favorite landscape photography lens? Which lens on this list was your favorite? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 10 Best Lenses for Landscape Photography (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

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[Photography] Macro Photography: The Complete Guide to Breathtaking Macro Images

The post Macro Photography: The Complete Guide to Breathtaking Macro Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.

What is macro photography? How can you get started capturing macro photos? And what are some easy tips and techniques to take your macro images to the next level?

That’s what this article is all about.

I’m going to share everything you need to know about macro photography – so that, by the time you’ve finished this article, you’ll be well on your way to becoming an expert. Specifically, I’ll discuss:

• The two pieces of gear you need to take stunning close-up shots
• The best lighting for vibrant colors
• How to create a scrumptious, creamy background blur
• How to capture consistently sharp macro images
• So much more!

Let’s jump right in.

What is macro photography?

Macro photography refers to photographing at high magnifications. This may involve the use of a specialized macro lens, which is designed to capture detailed, close-up photos.

Technically speaking, a true macro photo creates an image on the camera sensor that’s the same size as the scene in real life, also known as 1:1 magnification. So if you were to photograph an inch-long flower, the flower would need to take up an inch of your camera sensor.

This image was captured with a macro lens at or near 1:1 magnification (in real life, those anthers were tiny!):

But in general, the term “macro photography” is much broader. It includes true macro photos, but also general close-up images of flowers, insects, leaves, food, and more.

For instance, here’s a photo of a relatively large flower:

Is it a close-up photo? Yes, definitely. Would most photographers happily refer to it as “macro photography”? I think so. But it certainly didn’t involve 1:1 magnifications (and it probably could’ve been taken with a non-macro lens).

The same is true of the succulent image below. It’s close up, it’s not “true macro photography,” but I’d still call it “macro photography:”

The two essential pieces of macro photography gear

Getting started with macro photography is easy, and you don’t need thousands of dollars worth of gear.

Instead, I only recommend two items:

1. A camera
2. A close-focusing accessory

Let’s take a look at both these pieces of equipment in greater detail:

Choosing a camera

It may seem blatantly obvious, but every macro photographer needs a camera.

What kind of camera is best? I highly recommend a camera that offers interchangeable lenses; they tend to produce the highest-quality photos, and as you become more experienced, you can upgrade your lenses without needing to purchase a new camera. Plus, interchangeable lenses will just make your life a lot easier if you ever decide to shoot landscapes, portraits, architecture, etc., because you can buy lenses specifically for those purposes.

But as long as your camera can change lenses, you don’t need to be picky. Any DSLR or mirrorless model from Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fujifilm, Panasonic, Olympus, or Pentax will work just fine (and there are plenty of other brands not mentioned on that list that will work, too).

And if you don’t want to shell out for a DSLR or mirrorless camera, that’s okay, too. Even a smartphone will let you shoot macro photos, provided you have the right close-focusing accessory, as discussed in the next section:

Choosing a close-focusing accessory

Most cameras cannot automatically focus up close. So in order to capture macro photos, you’ll need some sort of magnifier.

Here, you have a few options. If you already own a lens (such as an 18-55mm kit lens or a 50mm lens) you can purchase a close-up filter, which will mount to your setup and let you shoot at high magnifications. Extension tubes are another option, which go between your camera and your lens and allow for closer focusing.

But while close-up filters and extension tubes do work, they come with some serious drawbacks. Close-up filters tend to reduce image sharpness, and both options reduce your shooting flexibility. That’s why I recommend a macro lens for the best shooting experience.

Which macro lens you choose doesn’t make a major difference; as long as the lens can get you close – 1:2 or 1:1 magnification is ideal – then you’ll be able to capture stellar images.

Is any other gear necessary?

If you’ve done any reading on macro photography, you’re probably wondering: What about artificial lighting? What about a tripod? What about a focusing rail? Aren’t those important for good macro photography?

Honestly, while artificial lighting, a sturdy tripod, and a macro focusing rail can certainly be helpful for some types of macro photography, they’re definitely not a requirement. (I rarely use those items, myself.)

So I’d recommend getting started without such accessories. Then, if you decide you want greater stability, you can grab a tripod; if you decide you want precision focusing, you can grab a focusing rail; and if you decide you want to modify the light, you can grab artificial lighting. But they’re not always necessary, and there are plenty of professionals who work handheld with only natural light.

Make sense?

Macro photography settings

Macro photography is a technically demanding genre. So you need to pay careful attention to your settings when shooting.

Here are my three essential recommendations:

1. Set your camera to Aperture Priority or Manual mode

Pretty much every camera offers a series of modes: Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program, etc.

And I highly recommend choosing either Aperture Priority or Manual mode.

Aperture Priority lets you choose your aperture and ISO setting, while your camera chooses the shutter speed. I discuss aperture more in the next section, but taking control over the aperture goes a long way toward creating stunning macro photos.

Manual mode lets you choose the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO. Personally, I shoot almost exclusively in Manual mode, as I find it offers the most flexibility and creative control. It can take some getting used to, though, so if you like the idea of shooting in Manual mode but don’t feel comfortable adjusting all your camera settings, start with Aperture Priority, then switch to Manual as you become more experienced.

2. Carefully choose your aperture for perfect depth of field

The aperture is a hole inside your lens that opens and closes depending on your camera’s aperture setting.

Aperture is a key part of exposure (along with shutter speed and ISO). But aperture also affects the depth of field: the amount of your image that’s sharp.

By selecting a small aperture (also known as a high f-number, such as f/16), you’ll end up with a result like this one, where most of the subject is in focus:

And by selecting a large aperture (i.e., a small f-number, such as f/2.8), you’ll end up with an image like this, where very little of the subject is in focus:

Because macro photography occurs at such high magnifications, depth of field is already pretty limited. (The closer you are to your subject, the smaller the depth of field, all else being equal.)

So it’s pretty tough to get a shot with a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if you shoot at f/22. However, you’ll still need to carefully consider your aperture. Certain macro photographers like to keep their entire subject sharp from front to back, and they’ll often shoot at f/13 or f/16.

Whereas other macro photographers like to create a so-called soft-focus effect, where you only get a sliver of your subject in focus.

Neither choice is wrong, and both types of macro photography can look great when executed properly. Just make sure you’re thinking about the aperture for every shot you take. That way, you get the artistic result you’re after.

3. Use manual focusing for the sharpest results

These days, cameras and lenses offer amazing autofocus systems. You can capture birds in flight, cars at high speeds, airplanes taking off, and so much more.

Yet even the best autofocus systems come with a major weakness:

High-magnification focusing.

Unfortunately, autofocusing on objects at macro magnifications is just really hard. Which is why, for the best macro photos, you’ll need to focus manually.

This may sound intimidating, but it’s actually quite easy. Simply switch your lens from autofocus to manual focus (most lenses have a switch on their side). Then turn the focus ring until you achieve the point of focus you’re after.

You’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly. And pretty soon, you’ll want to focus manually all the time!

(Quick tip: If you’re struggling to focus on a close-up subject, try setting your focus first. Then let go of your focus ring and rock your camera back and forth until the plane of focus is exactly where you want it.)

Macro photography lighting

For macro photography, I recommend you start with natural light. Don’t buy any flashes or studio strobes or ring lights, especially not at first.

Instead, take advantage of the sun and all it offers. Here are the two best times of day to do outdoor macro photography:

Cloudy midday

Cloudy light is great for macro photography. It’s soft, it’s flattering, and it makes colors look super vibrant.

Here’s a photo I took on a cloudy afternoon:

Do you see how the colors really pop? That’s thanks to the cloudy lighting.

Unfortunately, cloudy light early and late in the day doesn’t work so well – the sky will be dark, and you’ll struggle to get a nice, bright image. So if the sky is cloudy, make sure to head out toward the middle of the day.

Sunny mornings and evenings

The golden hours – that is, the first hour or two after sunrise and the last hour or two before sunset – are beloved by pretty much all photographers, and for good reason:

They offer soft golden light that looks magnificent.

Thanks to golden hour lighting, I love doing macro photography early in the morning and late in the day. Colors look beautiful, and you can create all sorts of interesting lighting effects. Here’s an image shot around sunset (the orange color of the setting sun provided a beautiful backdrop):

The one caveat is that the sky needs to be clear. Too much cloud cover, and you’ll lose the beautiful light. Then you’ll have to cope with dim, cloudy light – and as I explained in the previous section, it doesn’t work so well for macro shooting.

Don’t do macro photography when the light is harsh

This is probably the number one mistake I see beginner macro photographers making. If you head out when the light is harsh, you’ll end up with bad exposures, ugly colors, and unflattering shadows, no matter how skilled you are as a photographer.

When is the light harsh?

Basically from a couple of hours after sunrise to a couple of hours before sunset, assuming you have no cloud cover. Midday (i.e., high noon) is the absolute worst for macro photography, but a few hours to either side is also pretty bad, at least at most latitudes.

(If you do have lots of cloud cover, then shooting at midday is completely fine.)

So shoot when the light is good, as discussed above. And avoid shooting when the light is harsh.

Tips for macro photography beginners

Now that you’re familiar with the macro photography basics, I’ll share a few tips and tricks to improve your macro photos.

1. Carefully position your subject for maximum impact

I’ve talked a lot about macro settings and lighting, but I’d also like to emphasize a third corner of the macro photography triangle:

Composition.

Composition in macro photography is a huge deal; by positioning your elements in different areas of the frame, you can achieve very different end results. In fact, composition can be the difference between a boring, snapshot-like image and a stunning, please-let-me-print-this-and-hang-it-on-my-wall image. (No joke.)

But how can you create stunning compositions?

I’d recommend starting with the rule of thirds. By positioning your subject a third of the way into the frame, you can achieve a nice harmony while maintaining plenty of visual movement (also known as dynamism).

You might also experiment with centered compositions, where you place your main subject right in the center of the frame. Centered images tend to look pretty intense, and they work especially well if you have a symmetrical subject.

Once you’ve learned the basic composition guidelines, such as the rule of thirds and symmetrical symmetry, I’d recommend playing around with different image layouts. Find a nice macro subject, then position it in various parts of the frame. You might think about doing macro minimalism, you might try including diagonals, you might consider incorporating triangles or the rule of odds; basically, there are all sorts of different options, so have fun with them!

2. Increase the distance between your subject and the background

At the start of this article, I promised to explain how to achieve beautiful, blurred macro backgrounds. Part of it has to do with using a wide aperture for a shallow depth of field. But there’s another key part, too:

Make sure your subject is as far from the background as possible.

It’s a simple trick, but it makes a huge difference.

Now, you can increase the subject-to-background distance in two main ways:

1. You can find a subject that’s far from the background. So if you want to photograph a tulip, find one that’s far from the trees or fence or grass behind it.
2. You can change your position so that the area behind your subject recedes. For instance, by getting down low to the ground, the area behind your subject will often change from the grass (near to your subject) and become distant trees or distant flowers (far from your subject). And you’ll get a much better blur.

For the image below, I wanted to create a nice background blur while shooting some grape hyacinths. I didn’t have too many flowers to choose from, so I got low to the ground – I was practically lying face down in the flower bed! – and I shifted my camera back and forth until there was a nice distance between my main subject and the flower behind it. This was the result:

3. Shoot into the sun for beautiful lighting effects

I’m a huge fan of creative macro photography. And one of my all-time favorite ways to generate jaw-dropping creative effects is to position my subject between the camera and the sun so I can shoot straight into the light.

It’ll give you images like this, with lots of cool lighting effects in the background:

All you have to do is find a nice subject, get up close, and make sure it’s in front of the sun. I do recommend trying this technique around sunrise or sunset – that’s when the effect tends to look the best.

A note of caution: Don’t look through your camera directly at the sun, especially at high magnifications. If you’re using a DSLR, I’d really recommend switching to Live View (where you shoot with your camera’s rear LCD).

But as long as you’re shooting safely, you’ll have a lot of fun!

Macro photography: conclusion

Macro photography is an incredibly rewarding genre of photography – and if you remember these tips, you’ll be well on your way to some great shots.

So grab your camera, make sure you get a close-focusing accessory, and head outside!

Now over to you:

Do you have any questions about macro photography we didn’t answer in the article? Do you have any macro photography tips or pointers? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Macro Photography: The Complete Guide to Breathtaking Macro Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barrie Smith.

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