[Photography] Photography Ideas: 100+ Things to Photograph in 2022

The post Photography Ideas: 100+ Things to Photograph in 2022 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

Sooner or later, we all run out of things to photograph. Or we think we do.

In truth, there are countless subjects worth photographing – and many of them can be found in your house, in your backyard, or on a short walk.

I’ve compiled a list of more than 100 photography ideas, which I share below. It includes dozens of things to photograph along with lots of example photos. So if you’re looking for cool photos to take or you’re in need of inspiration, read on!

Note: I include a handful of idea categories, including nature, people, animals, events, and architecture. I recommend you start by tackling a category you’re not especially familiar with; that way, you can spend time exploring an area of photography that feels fresh.

Things to photograph in nature

There is a whole wide world out there, and it’s waiting to be explored by you and your camera! I’m not just talking about natural subjects that your eyes can see; I encourage you to find what is hidden underneath and behind and inside.

First, pull out your closest-focusing lens and capture the surfaces of the natural world. Try photographing:

• Flowers
• Trees, branches, and bark
• Vines
• Leaves
• Fruits and vegetables
• Driftwood
• Tall grass

Don’t just go for the typical nature shot. Adjust your angle, experiment with different settings, and do what you can to shoot from close and far away.

Also, photograph these natural subjects at many different times: noon, golden hour, dusk, and everything in between. Don’t forget to photograph after it rains.

Then bring out your wide-angle or telephoto lens and spend time capturing:

• Fields
• Orchards (in bloom or full of fruit)
• Pumpkin patches
• Sunflower fields

Next, explore water. If you’re up for it, consider purchasing underwater housing for your camera. Here are just a few water-related items to take pictures of:

• Water spraying from the sprinkler or hose
• Rain
• Creeks, ponds, lakes, and oceans
• Waves
• Ice
• Snow
• Steam

If you’re interested in more unusual nature photography ideas, consider shooting the ground, such as:

• Rocks
• Sand
• Gravel
• Soil

And if you’re more of a people photographer, bring some friends along with you on a morning walk and include them in your photos. You might capture beautiful shots of people on:

• Pathways
• Trails
• Dirt roads

People photos to capture

Looking for some people photography ideas? Here are a handful of subjects you can photograph from home:

• Newborns
• Toddlers
• Children
• Teens
• Siblings
• Twins and triplets
• A whole family
• 3+ generations

Note that there are many ways to photograph people. You could take posed shots, of course – but you might also capture candid moments.

And don’t pressure yourself to go big. Just find somebody you can take pictures of. You don’t have to know what you’re doing; just aim your camera and something interesting will emerge.

(Worst-case scenario, just photograph yourself! There are plenty of awesome self-portrait ideas worth trying, such as multiple exposures, abstract blurs, and more.)

If you have a child, you can capture an infinite number of possible photos. For instance, you might photograph them:

• Playing with bubbles
• At a playground
• Riding a bike
• Playing sports
• Swimming
• Balancing

Maybe you prefer to photograph friends? That’s okay, too! Grab a friend and photograph them:

• In an interesting job
• Engaging in a hobby
• Playing (or listening to) music
• On a farm
• Playing sports
• Having fun with paints
• Cooking
• Working with tools
• Acting very professional

Really, you could produce an entire portfolio just by photographing one person over a month or two.

Animal photography ideas

If you like the idea of capturing animals, now’s your chance to get started. Consider photographing:

• Pets
• At a farm
• At a vet
• At a shelter
• At an animal rescue
• At a pet store
• At a zoo
• At an aquarium
• Bugs
• Birds
• Local wildlife
• Fish and other water creatures

Event photography ideas

Events combine plenty of great photographic subjects, such as people, places, food, and interesting activities. You can find plenty of events listed on city websites, but consider capturing household events, too.

Here are just a few events to photograph:

• Sports
• Festivals
• Parades
• Local charity events
• Animal shelters
• Farmers markets
• Boating events
• Air shows
• Car shows
• Dances
• Concerts

Enter photography contests

I know, I know: You can’t take a picture of a photography contest!

But most contests have themes, which means they offer plenty of photography ideas! In other words, if you photograph for a contest, you can let someone else think up the subject matter. Then you can try to capture it in the most interesting way possible.

(And who knows? You might even win!)

Search for contests on/in:

• Your city website
• The local paper
• Photography magazines
• Google
• dPS challenges

Architectural things to photograph

Architectural photography might sound a little boring, but in my experience, it can be a whole lot of fun! You don’t need to restrict yourself to the “standard” architectural subjects (like real-estate interiors and churches). Instead, try your hand at a few of these unusual photography ideas:

• Old buildings
• Barns
• Farmhouses
• City neighborhoods
• Ruins
• Modern buildings
• Glass buildings
• Train stations
• Museums
• Walls

Pay careful attention to your perspective, and – if necessary – shoot wide and make distortion corrections during post-processing.

Things to take pictures of: meaningful objects

Still life photography is a great way to memorialize precious objects. You can create complex still life arrangements – or you can capture single items.

Note that you can aim to convey the essence of your subject, or you can strive to tell a story.

Here are just a few meaningful objects to photograph:

• Products for a small business
• Crafts for a friend’s Etsy store
• Family heirlooms
• Museum artifacts
• The items on your desk
• Your cameras
• The furniture in your house
• Junkyard items (such as rusty old cars)
• Prepared food
• Food at restaurants

Capture the seasons and the time of day

Looking for a more contemplative photography idea? Then consider a photography project that spans several months (or even years).

For instance, you might produce a series of photos that aims to convey the essence of:

• Winter
• Spring
• Summer
• Fall

Or you might produce a photo series that captures the essence of:

• Sunrise
• Midday
• Sunset
• Night
• Moonlight
• Cloudy days
• Stormy days

You might also select a single subject (perhaps from the photo ideas shared in previous sections), then capture it across several seasons or across an entire day.

Technique variations

I’ve shared plenty of ideas about what to take pictures of…

…but in addition to all the options mentioned above, consider how you can use different techniques to capture unique shots.

For instance, regardless of your subject matter, you might capture:

• Black and white shots
• Silhouettes
• Close-up or macro shots
• Shadows
• Reflections

Also, consider the different results you can achieve by focusing on:

• Angles
• Backgrounds
• Light

100+ photography ideas: final words

Hopefully, you’ve found this list – detailing over a hundred things to take pictures of – useful!

You have plenty of potential subjects. So grab your camera and start photographing!

Now over to you:

Have any additional photography ideas to add to my list? Share them in the comments below!

The post Photography Ideas: 100+ Things to Photograph in 2022 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

it's from Digital Photography School https://ift.tt/dZBipNl
via Mat Coker

[Photography] Candid Street Photography: 7 Tips to Improve Your Images

The post Candid Street Photography: 7 Tips to Improve Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

Candid street photography is a ton of fun – but it can also be pretty difficult, especially for the beginner street snapper.

In this article, I share my favorite seven tips and strategies to level up your candid street shots. These are techniques I’ve developed from over a decade of photographing on the streets – and I guarantee that, if you apply them carefully, you’ll end up with great results.

Let’s get started.

1. Travel light and with minimal gear

Many beginner street shooters work with a DSLR and a midrange zoom lens – and while it’s fine to do street photography with such bulky equipment, lightening your load will make a huge difference. You will have more energy, your coordination will be better, and you will be faster and more willing to explore. You’ll also be able to photograph in situations where you don’t feel comfortable bringing a large camera.

So what type of gear do I recommend?

First, consider a more compact street photography camera. Mirrorless models – especially APS-C and Micro Four Thirds options – are smaller and lighter, plus they look less intimidating to the people you’re photographing.

And if you do want to stick with your DSLR, consider using a small prime lens, such as a 35mm or a 50mm. A 50mm f/1.8, for instance, will be far smaller than your standard zoom. It’ll also be very cheap and offer high-quality optics.

Note that prime lenses will restrict you to a specific focal length, but this limitation can actually be quite freeing. By sticking to 35mm or 50mm (the two favorite focal lengths for most street photographers), you will quickly learn to see how the lens sees, and you’ll be able to better visualize shots before you raise the camera to your eye.

2. Raise your ISO

If you attend photography workshops or take photography classes, you’ve probably encountered the standard advice: keep your ISO as low as possible.

Yet while high ISOs can create unpleasant noise effects, modern cameras offer very impressive high-ISO capabilities; you can often shoot at ISOs of 1600 and 3200 with minimal noise, which is why, in my view, you shouldn’t be afraid to boost that ISO.

I typically shoot candid street photos at ISO 400 in sunlight, ISO 800 in light shade, ISO 1600 in dark shade, ISO 3200 at dusk, and ISO 6400 at night. With an entry-level or less-advanced camera, I would drop this by one stop (i.e., shoot ISO 200 in sunlight and up to ISO 3200 when doing street night photography).

You see, a high ISO gives you a huge advantage. It lets you use a fast shutter speed, even in low light – which means you can shoot handheld, you can freeze motion, and you can use a small aperture to maximize depth of field.

(Why is a deep depth of field necessary? For one, if you fail to focus on your subject, you may still get a sufficiently sharp shot. Plus, it’ll let you keep multiple subjects sharp within a single composition, which is a great way to add context and complexity to your candid images.)

3. Pick a spot and wait

Street photographers often just take a camera, walk around, and explore – but by constantly walking, you may be doing yourself a disservice. You’ll miss out on the shots that require a bit of patience (which are often better than the shots you’ll get when walking around).

So instead of walking constantly, head outside – and when you find a promising location, linger for a while and wait for something to happen.

By picking a spot, you give a magical moment plenty of time to materialize – and if you’ve chosen your location carefully, you’ll be able to combine subject interest and a good background for a top-notch result. After all, it’s when the right location merges with an interesting moment that a great photograph appears.

Additionally, if you lie in wait, you’ll be faster at noticing your surroundings. You won’t be focused on walking, so you can instead spend time scanning the flow of people.

Plus, people will be coming into your scene rather than the other way around. This might not seem like a big deal, but in my experience, it makes the whole practice of candid street shooting easier and less confrontational.

One last note: If you want to do candid street photography while remaining unnoticed, make sure you raise your camera to your eye before your subject walks into the image. Then keep your camera up as the subject leaves the scene. That way, it’ll seem like you were just photographing the background!

4. Know what to say if someone stops you

No matter how you look at it, street photography is inherently uncomfortable – if not for you, for the people you’re photographing. Some of your subjects will be flattered by the camera, but others will be confused or even bothered.

If you do street photography for long enough, even if you use a low-key approach, you’ll eventually run into people who question you. They may even get mad.

So what do you say when this happens?

When someone asks if you took their photo, own up to it and tell them what you were doing. Talk to them and explain why you found them interesting. I always keep a business card with me, and I offer to send the photograph if they email me for it.

No matter what happens, always keep a smile on your face. If someone seems angry, there’s no need to get defensive or angry back. It’s your legal right to take photos on the street (depending on where you are photographing, of course), but you don’t need to explain this, at least not at first. It’s not the best thing to bring up right away as it can make people even angrier.

Instead, figure out how to defuse the situation. Tell them that you didn’t mean to make them uncomfortable. Over the years, I’ve offered to delete a couple of photos when I felt it was necessary.

If you’re careful, however, you won’t experience many issues. I’ve been shooting frequently for 15 years, and I can only recall one or two uncomfortable situations.

5. Don’t be afraid to get experimental (or even weird)

Candid street photography is about capturing life and culture as it goes on around you. It doesn’t have to be about beauty, and it doesn’t have to be about creating “standard” street shots that get lots of love on Instagram.

So express yourself. Shoot what interests you. Capture subjects that are unique. You don’t always need to take the prettiest or most beautiful photography; instead, try to create something that makes viewers think or throws them off balance, even if it’s weird. Capture images for yourself, regardless of whether some people fail to understand or like them right away.

Remember: It is not your job to please everyone. It’s your job to take a good photograph.

And be spontaneous. With other forms of photography, you can be a perfectionist about every detail. While it is also important to think this way when doing street photography, so many of your decisions will be made in a split second. Let yourself go. Whenever you feel there is potential for a strong image, even if you aren’t sure, go for it. Many of these shots will fail, but some of them will end up being the best photos you’ve ever taken.

6. Group your photos while editing

Make sure you review your street photos often – and as you do, group them based on feel. Sequence them into a loose narrative. Come back to these groups, add to them, and take away from them. Over time, you will notice ideas that grow organically, and you’ll start to feel inspired to take more shots, different shots, interesting shots.

The ultimate expression of “photo grouping” is a book, and you may want to eventually think about putting one of these together. However, before you head down this path, purchase a simple cork board for your office wall and fill it with 4 x 6 and 5 x 7 images. Constantly print and replace photos to create a cohesive wall of images. It’s a lot of fun, it’s a great way to view your progress, and it’s also great for developing ideas and inspiration.

7. Explore the work of other photographers

This is such a simple tip, but it is immensely important.

In your free time, look up the work of street photographers and study their portfolios. Explore the content, learn the technique, and think about the styles that you like. Watch videos of these photographers in action to see how they approach the street. Go to gallery shows and look at real-life prints to train your eye. This will give you a range of ideas about what to capture the next time you are out shooting.

Also, don’t be afraid to look beyond the candid street photo genre. For instance, you might consider looking at still life street shots, architectural street shots, or street portraits – whatever interests you, make sure you pursue it, as it will only help your photography!

All of this is inspiring and fun to do. Start a photography book collection or even purchase a couple prints for your walls. The more you surround yourself with street photos, the better you will become, the more ideas you will have, and the more inspired you will be.

If you’re not sure where to start, here’s a list of incredible candid street shooters to look into:

• Henri Cartier-Bresson
• Garry Winogrand
• Robert Frank
• Helen Levitt
• Lee Friedlander
• William Eggleston
• Walker Evans
• Daido Moriyama
• Martin Parr
• Elliot Erwitt
• Joel Meyerowitz
• Mary Ellen Mark
• Bruce Davidson
• Saul Leiter
• Trent Parke
• Alex Webb
• Vivian Maier
• Bruce Gilden

Candid street photography: final words

Now that you know how to improve your candid shots, go out and have some fun!

The more time you spend shooting, the better your images will look. So keep practicing, keep developing your skills, and keep honing your craft.

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use first? What type of candid street photography do you like to shoot? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Candid Street Photography: 7 Tips to Improve Your Images appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by James Maher.

it's from Digital Photography School https://ift.tt/LYpsDSM
via James Maher

[Photography] Continuous Lighting in Photography: Your Ultimate Guide

The post Continuous Lighting in Photography: Your Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Olivia Johnson.

Looking to get started with continuous lighting in photography? You’ve come to the right place. 

Continuous lights are often overlooked by studio and portrait photographers – yet they offer a host of benefits. And by applying a few simple techniques, you can get incredible results (no matter your level of experience).

Below, I explain everything you need to know about continuous lighting, including:

• How continuous lights differ from strobes and speedlights
• What makes continuous lights so much better (or worse) than alternatives
• How to work with continuous lights to achieve amazing portraits, product photos, and more

Let’s dive right in.

What are continuous lights? 

Continuous lights refer to artificial lighting that continuously illuminates the subject. They don’t flash on and off as you take photos; instead, they remain bright throughout the shoot.

Technically, we encounter continuous lighting all the time. It’s what we use in our houses, stores, streetlights, and more. 

But continuous lights in the studio are designed specifically for photographic (or video) applications. You can mount them on a stand, move them around the room, and add modifiers to diffuse or focus the light. They’re a tool used by some professional photographers, though they face stiff competition from two alternative sources of artificial illumination:

Studio strobes and speedlights.

Continuous lights vs studio strobes vs speedlights: What’s the difference?

While continuous lights work constantly to illuminate the subject, studio strobes and speedlights create bursts of light only when fired by the camera. They’re what most people think of when they hear the word “flash.”

Now, speedlights are portable, battery-operated lights that attach to most cameras via the hot-shoe mount. They can also be used off-camera, though you’ll generally need some sort of wireless trigger setup to make them fire.

Studio strobes, referred to as strobes throughout this article, are larger, more powerful lights that are mounted on light stands and are always activated through some sort of corded or wireless setup. They’re infinitely less portable than speedlights, and they’re far more expensive. 

Compared to continuous lights, both speedlights and strobes emit a more powerful burst of light – so if you need to overpower strong ambient lighting (e.g., a harsh sun at midday), speedlights and strobes are the better options. 

However, because speedlights and strobes only create a momentary flash of light – as opposed to continuously illuminating the subject – they’re much tougher to use. Speedlight photographers, in particular, tend to work blind; they set up their speedlights, take a test shot, evaluate the result, and make adjustments. There’s no way to know exactly how the flash will look until after the shot has been taken, so it requires a lot of experimentation to get beautiful images.

(Studio strobe photographers do run into similar problems, but most strobes include modeling lights, which allow you to preview the quality and direction of the illumination before taking a shot.)

Bottom line: If you don’t have much experience visualizing lighting effects, or you simply like the idea of capturing what you see, then continuous lights are a great buy. On the other hand, if you need very powerful lighting, strobes (and to a lesser extent, speedlights) are the better pick. 

Why you should use continuous lights in your photography

Continuous lights offer many benefits, and so if you’re on the fence about pursuing continuous light photography, I certainly encourage you to give it a try.

For one, as I explained above, continuous lights allow you to see both the direction and quality of illumination before you ever take a photo. That means you can set up your lighting, see how it interacts with your subject, make tweaks, observe your subject some more, and so on – until you get the exact effect you want. It’s difficult to overstate how helpful this is, especially for beginners (but also for more seasoned photographers, too).

And continuous lights offer a helpful workaround when shooting in a venue that doesn’t allow flash photography. You should always ask to be sure, but even if flash photography is banned in a location, continuous lighting may be permitted (thus allowing you to get the shots you envisioned). 

Plus, continuous lighting is far less disruptive than speedlight and strobe photography. If you’re shooting at a sensitive event, you can set up your continuous lights, then leave them on for the entire photoshoot. You’ll get great images, and you won’t have to worry about disturbing your subjects.

5 tips to improve your continuous lighting photography

In this section, I offer a handful of quick tips to level up your continuous lighting, starting with:

1. Get the strongest lights you can afford

Continuous lights offer beautiful illumination – but they’re not as powerful as speedlights and certainly can’t compete with studio strobes. 

Which means that, if you want the best results, you should get the strongest lights you can find. 

Unfortunately, stronger continuous lights do tend to cost more, but they really are worth it, especially if you’ll be shooting in areas with heavy ambient lighting. (Strong continuous lights will also let you keep your shutter speed at a reasonable setting when working indoors.)

I’d recommend an LED with at least 1000 bulbs, and if it turns out to be a little too strong, you can always turn down the power. Better to have too much than too little!

2. Soften the light as much as you can

Continuous lighting generally looks nice. But if you want outstanding images, you must adjust the lighting quality – that is, how hard or soft the light appears. 

Specifically, when doing standard portraits or product photos, you should work with soft lighting, which features limited shadows and subtle gradations. Soft light is flattering, plus it will help prevent unpleasant hotspots on your subjects. 

How do you create soft light?

You put a modifier over your continuous light, such as a softbox or an umbrella. Personally, I like softboxes, but umbrellas tend to be cheaper and easier for beginners to use. Either will soften the light, so don’t get too hung up on the decision; just make sure you’re producing soft light, and you’ll be good to go.

3. Check the color temperature

While speedlights and strobes generally have a fixed color temperature, some continuous lights let you modify the color temperature as you work.

And while this can be an interesting way to create cool effects, and it can also help you match your continuous lights to the ambient light, it’s generally best to keep the color temperature set to a very natural value.

What would I recommend? A daylight setting (around 5600K) is a great starting point. Of course, you’re always free to tweak this, but if you aim for the most realistic look possible, you’ll definitely improve your result.

Then, if you decide you want a different effect, you can always make adjustments when editing.

4. Block out all other lighting

This is a huge continuous lighting tip, and it’s one that you absolutely must remember if you want to get the best photos. 

While you can shoot strobes and speedlights without adjusting the ambient lighting, that just isn’t true for continuous lights. Instead, as soon as you bring out those continuous lights, you should turn off any lights in the room. And you should cover the windows with curtains, too.

The goal here is to make your continuous lighting your camera’s only source of illumination. Otherwise, ambient lighting may contribute different lighting qualities and directions to the scene, and you may also end up with problematic color temperatures in the mix.

5. Use more than one continuous light

While you can capture excellent photos with a single continuous light…

…the best portrait and product setups often require two, three, or more lights. 

After all, the more lights you have, the more you can carefully sculpt your subject.

If you’re photographing portraits, I recommend a three-point lighting system. Position a light in front of your subject (and off to the side, so it’s hitting the face at a 45-degree angle). This is the key light.

Then position a second light, the fill light, on the other side of the subject (so that it’s filling in the shadows created by the key light). Make sure that this fill light is at a lower power setting than the key light.

Finally, position a light behind your subject. This can either point at your subject to create a rim light – or point at the backdrop to create subtle background illumination. In fact, why not try both and see which you prefer?

Continuous lighting in photography: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to work with continuous lights. 

After all, you know what they are, why they’re great, and how to modify and position them for amazing results.

So grab your continuous lights. And get shooting!

Now over to you:

What do you plan to shoot with continuous lights? What setups will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Continuous Lighting in Photography: Your Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Olivia Johnson.

it's from Digital Photography School https://ift.tt/q3j8fnu
via Olivia Johnson

[Photography] dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Peace

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Peace appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

This week you need to find and photograph something that brings YOU peace. A peaceful scene, something that sets your mind at ease, something peaceful.

The Theme Hashtag is #dPSPeace and make sure to include it and #dPSWeeklyChallenge when you’re sharing your photographs on social media.

For me personally, I find that pretty much anywhere away from phone signal or out in nature is my peaceful place. I’ve shared some examples below…

That said, your peaceful place might be with a cup of tea on your favourite chair in your kitchen or sitting in a cafe window watching the world go by.

A wheat field I don’t recall where

Along the Inca trail somewhere

Rapeseed right before harvest

Again, make sure you tag if you post on social media, or alternatively, share your photo in the comments of this blog post or over in our Facebook group.

Here’s a link to our Facebook group.

Look after each other.

The post dPS Weekly Photography Challenge – Peace appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

it's from Digital Photography School https://ift.tt/LjPtpEc
via Sime

[Photography] Canon to Release the EOS R1, a High-Resolution Camera, and More

The post Canon to Release the EOS R1, a High-Resolution Camera, and More appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Canon has multiple EOS R cameras and a super-telephoto lens on the way.

Since the release of the EOS R3, a powerful, pro-level model for sports and action shooters, Canon has remained quiet, with a few minor exceptions (including the announcement of the RF 800mm f/5.6L and the RF 1200mm f/8L, two super-telephoto lenses that cost a whopping $17000 and $20000, respectively).

Fortunately, new cameras and lenses are coming later this year, and while they will cater to serious professionals, you can most likely expect prices in the four-figure – not five-figure! – range.

According to Canon Rumors, Canon will announce the EOS R1, the company’s first mirrorless flagship camera, before the year is out. The R1 will offer a combination of high-resolution imaging and lightning-fast shooting for sports photographers, wildlife photographers, photojournalists, and any other professionals in need of top-notch capabilities. 

When the EOS R1 debuts, it will be a first for Canon; until now, Canon’s high-end professional cameras have offered either action specs (the Canon 1D X Mark III, the Canon EOS R3) or a high-resolution sensor (the Canon 5DS). The EOS R5 threatened to bridge this gap, but despite its impressive 40+ MP sensor and 20 FPS shooting speeds, its design is that of a jack-of-all-trades professional body, not a flagship. 

So what can you expect from a Canon EOS R1?

The EOS R1 will likely boast at least 30 frames-per-second continuous-shooting speeds, top-notch in-body image stabilization, and groundbreaking autofocus features (including the latest and greatest tracking algorithms for action snappers). 

As for the EOS R1’s sensor: Canon Rumors claims that it will push beyond the 45 MP offered by the EOS R5. A sensor in the 55-65 MP range seems likely, especially as Canon seeks to outperform Sony and its 50 MP a1.

But the EOS R1 will likely fall short of a 70+ megapixel sensor. As Canon Rumors explains, while Canon is “not going to let Sony have that [high-resolution] crown for long,” the company will be releasing a second camera, designed specifically for high-res imaging and packing a 75 MP sensor. 

When will these new cameras drop? 

The EOS R1 should “begin shipping in Q4 of 2022,” though “an announcement may come as early as Q3.” In other words, we shouldn’t have too long to wait. 

The high-megapixel camera is more of an unknown, but a release date in the next 15 months would make sense, especially as Canon seeks to compete with the Sony a1 and Nikon Z9.

Note that, initially, Canon aimed to release the EOS R1 alongside a super-telephoto lens – most likely a 500mm f/4.5 or f/5 model. But “production delays may force Canon to do just a development announcement for [the] lens this year.” 

Now over to you:

Which Canon cameras do you hope to see this year? Which would you be interested in purchasing? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Canon to Release the EOS R1, a High-Resolution Camera, and More appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

it's from Digital Photography School https://ift.tt/3kW7YNg
via Jaymes Dempsey