[Photography] How to Photograph Silhouettes: 12 Tips for Breathtaking Results

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes: 12 Tips for Breathtaking Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion, and mood. They often stand out thanks to their simplicity and incredible storytelling capabilities.

But creating perfect silhouette photography can be hard – which is where this article comes in handy. Below, I share tips and tricks that are perfect for silhouettes, including:

• How to choose the right subject
• How to handle different lighting scenarios
• How to choose the best settings
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to discover how to shoot gorgeous silhouettes consistently, let’s dive right in!

1. Choose a strong subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette. However, some objects work better for silhouettes than others.

First, I recommend choosing a subject that has a strong and recognizable shape – one that’ll be interesting in its two-dimensional form. Silhouettes can’t draw on colors, textures, and tones to make themselves appealing, so the shape needs to be distinct.

People make great silhouette subjects, but if they’re doing something interesting – running, jumping, or riding a bike – the shot will look even better. The best silhouette shots often feature props, such as a bike, a basketball, or a skateboard.

2. Make sure your flash is off

Silhouette photograph often involves shooting in dim light (at the start and the end of the day), and most silhouette subjects look pretty dark, too. Therefore, if you have your camera in Auto mode, it may try to turn on the flash, which will ruin the shot.

You see, to capture a silhouette, you need to have as little light as possible on the front of your subject. The goal is to keep the subject dark and the background bright, not the other way around.

So make sure that flash is off! You may need to set your camera to Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode to control the flash (and as I discuss below, these modes are highly useful for silhouette shooting anyway!).

3. Get the light right

Silhouette lighting doesn’t work like normal photographic lighting. To capture a conventional shot, you generally want to ensure that your subject is lit from the front (so that the sun is coming from over your shoulder and striking your subject) or the side (so that the sun is off to your right or left and is striking one half of the subject).

But when you’re shooting silhouettes, you’ll need to reverse this approach. Find the scene’s main light source, then ensure that it’s shining from the back of the subject, not the front. Remember, the goal is to keep the background bright and the subject dark. You don’t need the light to come from directly behind the subject, but the brighter the background, the better.

That’s why it’s easy to create silhouettes at sunrise or sunset; you can position yourself so that you’re shooting into the low sun, and you can frame the dark subject with the bright sky in the background. However, it is possible to capture silhouettes during the middle of the day. You just have to figure out a way to shoot your subject against strong light. For instance, you can:

• Crouch down so that your subjects are framed against the high afternoon sun
• Photograph from below (e.g., folks walking over a bridge)
• Seek out shadowy subjects walking by a brightly lit wall
• Photograph indoors against a bright window

4. Frame your subject with negative space

Even once you’ve chosen the right subject and found the right light, you’ll need to pay careful attention to your composition. The best silhouette shots tend to feature a single subject (or group of subjects) surrounded by empty space, like this:

The empty space (also known as negative space) helps the shot breathe, and it also focuses the viewer on the main subject.

One trick is to shoot when the sky is bright and cloudless; that way, you don’t have to deal with any distracting clouds. You might also try photographing in areas with lots of empty space (e.g., fields, grassy plains, parking lots).

That said, you can also capture fantastic silhouettes that feature more than just a subject plus negative space. Don’t restrict yourself, but do make sure that you only include subjects that contribute to the shot.

5. Prevent shape intersections

If your silhouette composition includes multiple shapes, do your best to keep them separate. A person walking can look great, and a tree can look great, but if the person and the tree overlap, you’ll end up with a confusing mess. The two shapes will merge into one, and the viewer won’t know what’s happening.

Instead, carefully observe the scene and isolate only those shapes that are highly distinct. If you want to include multiple shapes that are currently overlapping, try changing your angle until the shapes separate.

Alternatively, if you’re photographing a moving subject, you can always wait until it changes position.

One related tip: If you’re photographing people, you probably want to silhouette them in profile, not head-on. That way, their features (nose, mouth, and eyes) will be outlined, and they’ll be more recognizable to the viewer.

6. Carefully adjust your exposure for the best results

Most modern cameras are pretty good at exposing photos so that everything is nice and bright. That can cause a problem; after all, you don’t want your subject to turn out nice and bright in a silhouette shot.

So what do you do? You trick your camera.

Simply set the camera to your shooting mode of choice (Aperture Priority can work great for this, but you can try Auto mode, too). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene and press the shutter button halfway. On many cameras, this will set the exposure, and as long as you keep the shutter button half-pressed, it’ll remain locked in.

Next, while still partially depressing the shutter button, point your camera at your subject and frame up your composition. Finally, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

With most digital cameras, this will result in a silhouetted subject! Pointing your camera at the bright part of the scene will cause your camera to darken the exposure – and then, when you do take the shot, the main subject will be rendered as a dark silhouette.

Note that some cameras also have a spot metering mode that helps with the above technique. Spot metering causes the camera to set the exposure based on the central part of your frame; with it, you can tell your camera the exact portion of bright background you want to use to determine the exposure. So if you’re not getting the shots you want using the technique discussed above, you can always try switching your metering mode and see if that helps.

7. Try shooting in Manual mode

The technique I discussed above often works well, but if you want even more control over your settings, I’d really recommend shooting in Manual mode.

Manual mode lets you input each and every exposure variable on your own. It can be a little difficult at first, but after a few hours of practice, you’ll get the hang of it.

Once your camera is set to Manual, I’d recommend dialing in a low ISO (100 is a good starting value) and a mid-level aperture (such as f/6.3). Then point your camera at the brightest part of the scene, and adjust the shutter speed until the exposure bar in the viewfinder is balanced.

Take the first shot and review the results on your camera’s LCD. If the image looks too dark, you can always lower the shutter speed, and if the image looks too bright, you can always increase the shutter speed instead.

(If you’re working with very limited light and your shots are turning out dark, you can also widen the aperture or boost the ISO to increase the exposure, but do so sparingly; widening the aperture will limit the area of the photo that’s in focus, while boosting the ISO will add unwanted noise to the image!)

I’d also recommend capturing the same shot using a variety of different exposures – just so you have slightly darker and slightly lighter versions as backup files.

8. Take steps to keep the subject sharp

The best silhouette photograph tends to feature sharp, in-focus subjects.

Unfortunately, this can make the automatic metering process – described in Tip 6 – somewhat tricky. You see, pushing your shutter halfway down to get the metering right also means that your camera will focus on a spot in the background rather than on your subject.

If you’re using the Manual mode shared above, you won’t run into any issues. You can always acquire your exposure settings by pointing your camera at the background, dialing them in, then focusing on your subject. But if you prefer the Auto mode strategy, then you have two options.

First, if your camera offers manual focusing, you can prefocus on your subject. Then, when you meter off the background, the point of focus won’t change. You can effectively frame up your composition before triggering the shutter.

Second, you can try adjusting the aperture to maximize your depth of field (i.e., the amount of your image that is in focus). For this, you’ll need to set a small aperture (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16).

If the f-number is large enough and your subject isn’t too close to the camera, you’ll end up with a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if your camera is focused on the area behind your subject.

9. Try partial silhouette photography

While a total silhouette with a crisp, dark subject can be powerful, also consider capturing some partial silhouettes. I’m talking about photos that include some detail on the subject, like this:

As you can see, the subjects are dark, but they’re not completely dark, and you can still see a bit of detail in the sand and the subjects’ clothes.

Sometimes, a touch of light makes the subject slightly more three-dimensional and real, which – depending on your goals – can work well. Plus, a bit of extra detail can add to the mysterious feel of the image.

And if you’re not sure whether to create a full silhouette or a partial silhouette, that’s okay; just bracket your shots! That’s the beauty of bracketing: it will leave you with both total and partial silhouettes to choose from.

10. Don’t just photograph people

Most silhouette photographers focus on people, and people do make great silhouette subjects. But you can also capture beautiful – and original – shots by focusing on other interesting objects.

For instance, you can create silhouettes of staircases (by getting down low and shooting upward), buildings, pets, planes, cars, and so much more.

Really, whenever you see a subject with a compelling shape, see if you can position yourself so that you have a nice backlighting effect, then try to shoot a clear silhouette. You’ll often fail to get the result you’re after, but occasionally the photos will look amazing.

11. Use a flash as your main light source

Throughout this article, I’ve talked about photographing silhouettes using natural light. But did you know that you can capture gorgeous shots using flash, too? One benefit of flash silhouette photography is that you can completely control the light direction and strength, which allows you to achieve all sorts of cool effects.

Working with flash can be a bit intimidating, but the goal is simply to make the background brighter than the subject. Position your subject in front of a light-colored backdrop (such as a white wall), point the flash at the wall, then take some shots, with the goal of overexposing the background while underexposing the subject.

You might also try positioning the flash behind your subject so that it’s pointed directly at their back; this will create a rim-lit effect, which can look wonderfully artistic.

12. Spend some time processing your silhouette photos

Even if you nail the silhouette exposure in camera, I’d recommend making a few minor tweaks using an editing program like Lightroom.

First, adjust the white balance until you get the results you want, then raise or lower the exposure to add or remove detail on the subject. You can also adjust specific tonal sliders for a more refined effect.

If you’re after a punchy silhouette shot, try adding some contrast – and if the image features a beautiful sunrise or sunset in the background, consider boosting the vibrance or the saturation.

Finally, experiment by adding a vignette, creating an eye-catching color grade, or selectively dodging and burning different parts of the image.

Silhouette photography: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

Our top 12 tips for photographing amazing silhouettes.

So head out when the light is right, remember the composition and settings advice I shared above, and start doing some silhouette photography of your own!

Now over to you:

Have any silhouette tips or photos you’d like to share? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes: 12 Tips for Breathtaking Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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[Photography] Multiply Blend Mode: A Comprehensive Guide

The post Multiply Blend Mode: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Multiply is one of Photoshop’s most popular blend modes. If you’ve ever followed the steps in a Photoshop editing tutorial, you’ve probably used it yourself, and if you’ve ever watched a Photoshop expert apply edits to their work, you’ve probably seen it in action.

But why is Multiply so common? What makes it such a popular choice among Photoshop artists and photographers? It’s because the Multiply blend mode is very versatile; it can be used to create all sorts of interesting effects.

In this article, I offer a comprehensive overview of Photoshop’s Multiply blend mode. I discuss what it is and how you can use it, plus I offer a step-by-step tutorial so you can see it in action.

Let’s dive right in.

What is Multiply blend mode?

As you probably know, Photoshop allows you to work with layers. And on each layer, you can put different elements: text, an image, an adjustment, and so on.

Now, Photoshop’s blending modes allow you to change how a layer interacts with the layers underneath. The blending modes are divided into categories (you’ll see a line dividing each category in the blending mode menu).

One of these blending mode categories is Darken, which includes the mode featured in this article, Multiply. As the name of the category suggests, by applying a Darken blend mode, you darken the overall file.

In the case of Multiply, the image is darkened by multiplying (hence the name) the color values from one layer by the layers underneath.

Don’t worry about the math, though. Photoshop takes care of that! What you need to know is that multiplying any layer by a black layer will create a black image, and that multiplying any layer by a white layer will cause the white layer to disappear. However, if you multiply a midtone layer by another midtone layer, you’ll end up with a combination of the two layers – but as darker versions of themselves.

When should you use Multiply blend mode?

The answer to this question is very straightforward: You should use Multiply blend mode when you want to darken your image.

What does this mean in practical terms? Here are a few common cases in which you might apply Multiply:

• When you want to recover faded color from vintage photographs
• When you’re fixing an overexposed image
• When you want to include a shadow on a cutout
• When you want to color under a traced drawing so that the lines remain black

Of course, there are plenty of other uses for Multiply, so don’t feel restricted by my list; these are just some scenarios to keep in mind.

How to use Multiply blend mode

The Multiply blend mode is very easy to use! Here’s how it works:

First, open any image in Photoshop. It’ll become the base layer (by default, it’ll appear as a locked layer called “Background”).

Next, add a second layer. The layer type doesn’t matter; just do what works for your file. It can be a text layer, an adjustment layer, etc. I’ve used a raster layer that contains this image:

By default, the layer will completely cover the original layer beneath it.

Next, go to the Layers panel. (If you can’t see this, you’ll need to open it. To do so, simply choose Window>Layers or press the F7 key on your keyboard.)

Toward the top of the Layers panel, you’ll find the blending options. You should see the blend mode on the left and the opacity on the right. By default, any layer will be set to Normal blend mode at 100% – but to use the Multiply blend mode, just click on the arrow next to the word “Normal” to open the drop-down menu:

Find “Multiply” on the list. (Remember, you’ll always find it in the Darken section of the menu.) If you’re using Photoshop CC, you’ll see a preview as you hover over the Multiply option – but in Photoshop CS6, you’ll need to actually click to apply the mode before you can see the effect.

Now click on the arrow next to the percentage value to open the Opacity slider. Simply drag the handle of the slider to adjust the layer opacity. You can also input a value directly:

Note: If these options aren’t enabled, it might be because your layer is blocked. Make sure your layer is selected and visible!

Do keep in mind that you need a layer underneath for the Multiply blend mode to have an effect. If you have a single layer and you change the blend mode from Normal to Multiply, you won’t see any difference. (The same is true if the layer underneath is a pure white background!)

Multiply blend mode: a step-by-step example

As I mentioned above, one of the common uses of Multiply blend mode is to fix an overexposed photograph. That’s what I’ll do for my example image:

I’ve already opened my image on a new layer, so I’ll start by adding a Curves adjustment layer. You can do this by clicking on the “Create a new fill or adjustment layer” button at the bottom of the Layers panel:

Without making any adjustments in the Curves properties panel, I’ll simply change the blending mode to Multiply, and the image will immediately darken:

You can already see the difference, but if you want, you can also make some adjustments to the Curves layer:

After adjusting the curve, it’s clear that the darker areas have become too dark. So I’ll lower the opacity a bit:

In my opinion, the brightest areas are too bright, so I’ll duplicate the Curves layer. (Duplicating a layer preserves its blending mode settings; in this case, my duplicate Curves layer is still in Multiply mode at 90% opacity.)

But I don’t want to darken the entire shot – just the too-bright areas – so I’ll fill the layer mask with black so that the second multiply effect isn’t visible. Then, using a white brush, I’ll paint over the brightest areas to reveal the darkening effect.

Here’s a before and after comparison:

Multiply blend mode tips

Here are a few quick tips so you can fine-tune the Multiply effect according to your needs:

1. Try using Blend If

The Blend If feature allows you to adjust how layers blend according to their content.

For example, let’s say that the shadows of my image turn out too dark due to the Multiply mode. I can use Blend If to tell Photoshop to blend my top layer only with the brightest parts of the base layer. That way, I can darken the highlights without losing details in the shadows.

You can find the Blend If feature inside the Layer Style dialog box. To reach this, go to the Layers panel. Then double-click on the layer that you want to adjust. (Make sure you click in the blank space next to the layer’s name. Otherwise, you’ll open a different menu or feature!)

The Layer Style box will pop up, and you should then find the Blend If section. Here, you’ll see two gradients; the top one refers to the layer on which you’re working, and the bottom one refers to the layer underneath.

Simply click and drag the handles along these gradients to modify the blending effect. Note that each handle has a line in the middle, which allows you to split the handle and create a smoother transition. To do this, simply hold the Alt/Opt key and drag along the handle!

2. Use Multiply with brushes

The Multiply blend mode is not only available for layers; it can also be used with brushes. All you need to do is select the Brush tool, then head to the Options bar at the top of the screen.

Then open the Blend drop-down menu (next to the word “Mode”). Scroll down and click on Multiply:

Then go ahead and paint with your brush! Whatever you paint will interact with the layer underneath by following the Multiply blend mode rules.

Multiply blend mode: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know all about using the Multiply blend mode, so go ahead and try it out! See what you can create, and have some fun experimenting with different effects.

Note that, while I talked about using the Multiply blend mode in Photoshop, you’ll also find this effect in other editing programs that work with layers. And in most cases, it’ll behave in the exact same way!

How do you plan to use Multiply? Do you have any tips or tricks that I didn’t discuss in the article? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Multiply Blend Mode: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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[Photography] How to Correctly Use Camera Memory Cards: 14 Tips

The post How to Correctly Use Camera Memory Cards: 14 Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Memory cards are an essential part of digital photography. They record your precious files and keep them safe until you’re able to transfer them to your (hopefully) full-fledged storage solution – which means that it’s essential that you understand how to use memory cards correctly.

After all, a properly cared-for memory card will often perform flawlessly for years – while a poorly looked-after card will be prone to errors, corruption, and loss of files.

In this article, I share 14 tips for keeping your memory cards in good condition. I explain how you should correctly eject your cards, how often (and when) you should format your cards, and more.

Let’s dive right in!

1. If disaster strikes, stop shooting

If you’re in the middle of a photoshoot and you run into a memory card problem – for instance, you accidentally delete your images or see a card error message – then stop photographing immediately.

Turn off your camera, eject the card, and store it in a safe place. When you run into one of these problems, all is not lost, and you may still be able to recover the images. However, it’s important that you stop using the card; otherwise, you might overwrite the files. Data recovery services and other tools are often very effective, especially when recovering accidentally deleted files, but once an image is overwritten, then it’s often lost forever.

If you do have a memory card issue while shooting, you can always continue the session with another card. The key is to safely remove the problematic card as soon as possible.

2. Avoid deleting images one by one on your camera

Did you know that repeatedly deleting images from an in-camera card while the card is still in your camera can actually shorten that card’s life? It’s true.

The rule is that the fewer times you add or remove data on your card, the better. So instead of selectively deleting files as you shoot, aim to erase all the images at once after uploading them to your computer. That way, you delete the files in a single cycle, not one at a time.

(Or better yet, use the Format function on your camera to wipe the card before each new photoshoot!)

3. Remove cards safely from your computer

It’s tempting to connect a memory card to your computer, transfer the images, and then pull it out of the card reader slot.

But that’s an easy way to cause problems, so after uploading images to your computer, make sure you take the time to eject the card before removing it from your card reader.

(If you use a Mac, you’ll probably need to right-click the relevant drive and hit Eject. If you use a Windows PC, you’ll need to use the Safely Remove Hardware option in your system tray.)

4. Multiple small cards can be better than one big card

These days, you can grab memory cards that store 128 GB, 256 GB, and beyond. But while these products do offer significant advantages – you need to carry far fewer cards, for one! – they also come with a significant drawback: You’re reliant on one (or a few) cards to get you through lengthy photoshoots and even week-long photo adventures.

I myself learned this lesson on a recent trip; I had a memory card die on me, and if I only owned one huge card, I would’ve been unable to continue using my camera. That’s why it’s at least worth considering multi-card storage solutions (plus, if you do lose the data on one card, not all of your images from a shoot will be lost).

5. Avoid filling your cards completely

My friend recently had an issue with a memory card. When he took it into the store, the clerk asked if he’d completely filled the card with images – and when he nodded, he was told that this could occasionally cause problems with some types of cards.

Let me be clear: I’ve not heard this advice before, and I’m somewhat skeptical about it myself, but it’s probably worth keeping in mind. The advice would be to regularly take images off your cards rather than only removing images when the cards are full; this is a good idea anyway because it’ll prevent significant heartbreak if you lose the card or the files are corrupted.

6. Periodically reformat your cards

This memory card tip is quick but essential:

Reformat your memory cards every so often, and do it with your camera, not your computer. This will clean the card and get it ready for a new batch of images. Of course, you should only do this after you’ve downloaded all files – otherwise, you’ll lose them!

7. Format your memory cards in the right camera

As I discussed in the previous tip, it’s a good idea to format your memory card in a camera. But you shouldn’t format the card in just any camera; instead, make sure you format it in the camera you plan to shoot with.

For instance, if you’ve been using your card in your Canon DSLR but want to start using it in your Canon mirrorless camera, you should safely store all the images, then reformat the card when you put it in the mirrorless camera for the first time.

8. Switch off your camera before removing the memory card

Years ago, it was said that a camera could give a card “voltage shock” when the card was pulled out of the camera without first turning the camera off. But while manufacturers seem to have since made improvements in this area, it’s better to be safe than sorry! That’s why I recommend you always turn off your camera before you remove a card.

(Additionally, if your camera is on, it might still be in the process of writing images – and if you remove the card, those images may become corrupted or go unwritten.)

9. Keep your camera up to date

Every so often, camera manufacturers will release firmware updates, which keep your camera up to date and include fixes for errors or problems that are identified with the camera.

Some of these fixes can relate to the camera’s interaction with the memory card, so I encourage you to check for camera firmware updates every few months and download them as needed.

10. Periodically update your cards

Memory cards can last a long time – even years. However, like all electronics, they wear down with constant use, so it’s important that you update your set of cards periodically to prevent issues.

Fortunately, memory card prices are always dropping, so updating your cards has become a surprisingly inexpensive task!

11. Replace batteries before they die

When you’re on a photoshoot, it’s important that you keep an eye on your battery levels – and if the battery does get low, either pause for a recharge or swap it out for a fresh one.

You see, when a battery runs out just as you take a shot, it can prevent your camera from writing the image to your card. This can also cause card errors, so make sure you keep an eye on those batteries!

12. Don’t switch off your camera too quickly after shooting

This one really depends on your camera model. If you fire off a burst of photos, your camera will need a little time to write all of the data to the memory card – and if you switch the camera off during this process, some cameras will simply lose the images and even end up with errors.

However, recent models will continue buffering even after you switch them off (thus avoiding the problem). If you’re not sure how your camera handles the issue, check the manual or do some Googling.

13. Keep your memory cards safe

Perhaps this memory card tip should go without saying, but whenever you’re shooting, do what you can to keep your cards safe.

Make sure the cards stay dry and clean – a dedicated memory card case is perfect for this – don’t expose them to extreme temperatures, don’t drop, bend, or puncture them, and don’t expose them to electromagnetic currents.

That way, your cards remain in good condition for years!

14. Prepare your cards in case they’re lost

This last one is optional, but if you’re afraid that you might lose your camera and/or memory card, you might try taking a picture of a luggage tag or business card complete with your contact details, then keep it as the first image on each of your memory cards.

Then lock the image so it’s not deleted. If you lose your camera or card and an honest person finds it, they’ll hopefully see the image and get in touch!

How to use camera memory cards: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to take care of your memory cards – and you’re well-equipped to prevent common card errors.

So remember the tips I’ve shared, keep your memory cards safe, and (with a bit of luck) you won’t run into any issues.

Now over to you:

Do you have any memory card tips that I missed? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Correctly Use Camera Memory Cards: 14 Tips appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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[Photography] 6 Tips for Breathtaking Aquarium Photography

The post 6 Tips for Breathtaking Aquarium Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

Aquariums offer gorgeous views of fish, dramatic lighting, and plenty of incredible photographic opportunities. Unfortunately, without the right approach, capturing great aquarium images can be insanely difficult thanks to the ultra-dark environments and fast-moving subjects.

Fortunately, I love photographing in aquariums, and I know how to capture crisp, clear, and well-exposed images of an array of fish subjects. In this article, I explain how you can create stunning shots of sharks, lobsters, eels, and so much more – so if you’re ready to start producing some stunning aquarium photography, then let’s dive right in!

1. Turn off your flash and get close

Most cameras, when left to their own devices, will automatically turn on the flash in dark environments. But while aquariums are extremely dark, you definitely don’t want the flash to fire; it’ll create a huge reflection on the glass that’ll almost certainly ruin your photo.

So before you even enter the aquarium, make sure to disable your flash.

Even with the flash deactivated, however, you still might encounter some ambient light reflecting off the glass, which will distract the viewer and can make your subjects appear less sharp. To avoid such reflections, simply move up to the glass (you can even press your lens hood against the surface!). Note that, if you follow this advice, you’ll be standing right up at the glass looking through it rather than standing back a few feet looking at it.

Check out this image of a fish at an aquarium. It looks okay, but if you look carefully, you’ll see a reflection on the left side of the frame:

For the next photo, however, I stepped closer to the glass and angled the camera to avoid including any reflections:

Much better, right?

2. Adjust your settings to avoid motion blur

If you step into an aquarium with your camera on Auto mode, you’re bound to end up with frustratingly blurry photos.

Why? In low-light scenarios, your camera will automatically slow down your shutter speed, which will amplify camera shake and fail to freeze subject movement.

So it’s important that you choose the right camera settings to ensure your images are consistently sharp.

In particular, you need to use a decently fast shutter speed – generally 1/125s or above, depending on the length of your lens and the speed of your subject. This next image was taken at 1/10s – the kind of shutter speed chosen by a camera left on Auto mode – and the motion blur is very obvious:

My advice? Don’t rely on your camera to pick the shutter speed. Instead, choose a shooting mode that lets you dial in the shutter speed directly – either Shutter Priority mode or Manual mode.

Shutter Priority mode lets you select the shutter speed and the ISO (which essentially refers to the sensitivity of the camera sensor to light), while the camera automatically picks the aperture. If you set your camera to Shutter Priority, I recommend setting the ISO as high as you can without risking image-ruining noise. (I have no problem going to ISO 3200 on my camera, though you should test out your own camera model to get a sense of its high-ISO capabilities.)

Then you’ll need to set your shutter speed. I’d recommend starting at 1/125s; you want to set a shutter speed that’s fast enough to freeze the action but no faster than necessary. If the shutter speed is too fast, your images will be sharp, but they’ll be dark (i.e., underexposed). I used a 1/125s shutter speed to capture this crisp shark shot:

Manual mode, on the other hand, lets you select your ISO, your shutter speed, and your aperture. It’s a good mode for more seasoned photographers, so if you’re comfortable with such an approach, I recommend setting your ISO as high as you can stomach, opening the lens aperture as much as you can (or are comfortable doing from a creative perspective), and then set your shutter speed to 1/125s or faster.

You’ll then need to adjust the shutter speed to ensure a perfect exposure; it’s important to pay attention to the exposure bar in the viewfinder, though you can also capture several shots, view them on the LCD screen, and make adjustments accordingly.

Here are my typical aquarium photography settings:

• ISO 3200
• f/2.8
• 1/60s

However, shooting at 1/60s takes practice and only works with slower subjects, so don’t be afraid to widen your aperture, boost your ISO, and bump your shutter speed as required.

3. Adjust your angle to make your shots more interesting

Once you’ve figured out how to get sharp aquarium photos, it’s time to get creative – and for me, varying the camera angle is the quickest way to make images more interesting.

In other words, rather than capturing each fish from a head-on angle, try shooting from a variety of perspectives. (The same shark can look very different from different angles!)

For instance, you might try:

• Getting below your subject and pointing your camera upward
• Getting up high and pointing your camera down (to achieve this angle, see if you can find a clear glass walkway)
• Crouching down so you’re on a level with your subject
• Walking to the right or the left for a diagonal perspective

To capture this next shot, which highlights the shark’s teeth and makes it appear far more menacing, I made sure to shoot from a low angle:

Whereas I used an eye-level angle to capture the beauty of this eel:

I also favored an eye-level angle to give this lobster photo a sense of intimacy:

But when a shark swam toward the glass, I used a low perspective to add drama:

Finally, I used an ultra-low angle – sometimes referred to as a worm’s-eye view or a bug’s-eye view – to capture this last image, which (I think) gives the feeling of actually being in the water with the sharks:

4. Seek out stunning silhouettes

Silhouettes are a great technique for capturing breathtaking aquarium photos, and – bonus! – they’re really easy to capture in aquariums thanks to the unique lighting situation.

The key to a silhouette is to photograph a dark foreground subject on a bright background. You often simply need to angle your camera to include bright light in the background, then wait for a subject to swim over. Fire off a shot, then check your camera LCD. If the image is too bright, simply raise your shutter speed or add in some negative exposure compensation until the subject turns into a perfect silhouette!

You can also capture gorgeous silhouettes of people standing by the aquarium glass. Children, for instance, are often captivated by sea creatures, and parents are often captivated by watching their kids! This next silhouette shot happened quite naturally because the aquarium tank was really bright compared to the people in the foreground:

Depending on its settings, your camera may produce a similar result, or you may need to make the exposure adjustments discussed above. Unfortunately, when shooting toward glass from a distance, you’ll often end up with some ambient light reflections, but if they bother you, you can always remove them during post-processing.

5. Consider the direction of the light

Aquariums are often lit by all sorts of interesting lighting angles, so it pays to carefully observe the direction of the light in the water.

You can use backlighting to create silhouettes (as discussed above), but you can also brighten up the image (by lowering the shutter speed or increasing the exposure compensation) for an interesting overexposure effect:

I also recommend looking for side light, which can give a cool sense of drama and three-dimensionality.

Don’t be afraid to experiment, and when in doubt, capture more photos, not fewer. And make sure you frequently check your camera’s LCD; when dealing with a mix of bright light and dark shadows, it can be difficult to get the exposure right, so you may need to make a few adjustments before you get a good result.

6. Enhance your photos with a bit of editing

It’s always important to capture the best possible images while you’re actually at the aquarium. But once the chaos of your trip is over, you can relax, sift through your photos, and – if you want to really take the files to the next level – spend some time editing.

Note that editing isn’t necessarily about creating unrealistic, over-the-top results. Instead, it’s often about recreating the scene as it was. I like to keep my photos looking as natural as possible, but I always want my photos to look the way the moment felt, so I don’t mind exaggerating colors or exposure if need be. The particulars are up to you, but here are a few items to consider:

• Try adjusting the white balance to eliminate any unwanted color costs
• Raise or lower the exposure to retain detail in the highlights and the shadows
• Add contrast for a bit of extra punch
• Add some clarity for extra crispness
• Boost the saturation or vibrance to more accurately represent the lush aquarium colors

For this first image, I subtly adjusted the exposure (via the Highlights and Shadows sliders), dropped the Blacks for extra contrast, and really cranked up the Clarity:

This next shot was far too dark, so I boosted the Exposure slider, then added some Clarity and Vibrance to give the image some pop. I also altered the white balance, which got rid of the green color cast in the original:

Tips for aquarium photography: final words

Well, there you have it:

My top tips for improving your aquarium images! Just remember to adjust your settings and approach until you can capture sharp, well-exposed photos. Then see if you can capture creative shots by changing your angle, paying attention to the lighting, and more.

One final tip: Don’t rush around the aquarium trying to photograph everything. Instead, take your time with each subject – even if it means you need to come back another day to finish your photoshoot. Patience is generally rewarded!

Now over to you:

Which of these tips do you plan to use on your next aquarium visit? Do you have any tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips for Breathtaking Aquarium Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Mat Coker.

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[Photography] Happy New Year From the dPS Team (2023!)

The post Happy New Year From the dPS Team (2023!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Another year is gone, and a new year has begun! On behalf of the dPS team, I’d like to wish you a happy New Year; hopefully, you had a joyful end to 2022, and 2023 is now off to a great start.

We have plenty of great articles in store for you in 2023, so make sure you check back frequently over the next few weeks. You don’t want to miss posts discussing landscape photography, portrait photography, camera settings, gear, photo editing, and so much more!

And if you’re looking to jumpstart your photography skills in the new year, you can always take a peek at our ultimate guides, which offer tips and techniques covering a slew of subjects:

• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Photography for Beginners
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Landscape Photography
• The Ultimate Guide to Learning How to Use Your First DSLR
• The Ultimate Guide to Street Photography
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Getting Started in Lightroom for Beginners
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Taking Portraits and Photographing People
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Photography Terms
• The Ultimate Guide to Nature and Outdoor Photography
• The Ultimate Guide to Night Photography
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Food Photography
• The dPS Ultimate Guide to Fine Art Photography

Again, we hope you have an amazing start to 2023 (and are already planning some exciting photographic adventures)!

The post Happy New Year From the dPS Team (2023!) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

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