Jul 4, 2023

[Photography] ICM Photography: A Guide to Intentional Camera Movement

The post ICM Photography: A Guide to Intentional Camera Movement appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Richard Beech.

A guide to intentional camera movement photos

Want to transform ordinary scenes into extraordinary works of art? Dive into the world of ICM photography.

If you’re tired of capturing the same old static images and crave a dash of creativity, then intentional camera movement photography is about to become your new best friend.

This technique is all about breaking the rules and embracing the beauty of blur. By intentionally moving your camera while the shutter is open, you can create mesmerizing, dreamlike images that defy convention. The results are reminiscent of an Impressionist painting, except instead of a paintbrush, you use a camera!

Note that ICM photography isn’t just about waving your camera around and hoping for the best; it’s a delicate dance between control and experimentation. By mastering the right techniques and settings, you can capture breathtaking shots that leave you (and your viewers!) in awe. So if you’re ready to start capturing abstract masterpieces, let’s dive right in!

What is ICM photography?

Intentional camera movement photography (ICM) is a technique that lets you create stunning, abstract images by moving your camera while capturing the shot.

bluebell woods intentional camera movement

It’s not a difficult technique; in fact, the beauty of ICM photography lies in its simplicity. All you need to do is adjust your camera settings to keep the shutter open for longer than usual. Then, as you intentionally move your camera from one point to another, the magic happens. Your camera captures the moving scene and transforms it into dreamy, blurry subjects while the world rushes past.

When is the intentional camera movement technique useful?

intentional camera movement on a beach

You can use the ICM technique to photograph a wide array of subjects. Let’s explore the various scenarios where ICM can truly shine:

  • Landscapes: One of the best uses of ICM is in capturing breathtaking landscapes. By intentionally blurring the details, you can emphasize the lines, forms, and vibrant colors present in nature. Whether you’re photographing a dense forest, a vast ocean, or an expansive prairie, ICM can help you create mesmerizing images that focus on the essence of the scene.
  • Moving subjects: Don’t let the name fool you; ICM isn’t just for stationary subjects. In fact, it can be particularly compelling when applied to moving subjects such as cars, sports players, or wildlife. By deliberately following the movement with your camera, you can create a captivating effect where the subject remains relatively sharp against a beautifully smooth and dynamic background. (This technique is also known as panning.)
  • Flower photography: If you’re passionate about capturing the delicate beauty of flowers, ICM can add a touch of abstraction to your images. By intentionally blurring the scene, you can highlight the vibrant colors and elegant shapes of the flowers, creating a dreamy and artistic interpretation of nature.
  • Street photography: Surprisingly, ICM can even be incorporated into street photography. It offers a unique way to accentuate the architectural lines of buildings and convey the fast-paced energy of urban life. By intentionally moving your camera while capturing the scene, you can infuse your street photographs with a sense of motion and dynamism.
Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

Bottom line: ICM photography opens up a world of creative possibilities, allowing you to transcend traditional photography and explore new dimensions of artistry. With the right subjects and a dash of experimentation, you can achieve remarkable results that transform ordinary scenes into extraordinary works of art.

Essential equipment for ICM photography

intentional camera movement abstract

The intentional camera movement approach is incredibly accessible. You don’t need fancy or expensive gear to get started. Here’s what I recommend:

  • Camera: Any camera that allows you to manually adjust the shutter speed will work. This includes DSLR and interchangeable-lens mirrorless cameras.
  • Lens: While you can use any lens for ICM photography, a slightly longer lens, like an 85mm or a 70-200mm, can make it easier to achieve strong blur effects. Longer lenses also help you focus on interesting patterns and colors. If possible, use a lens with manual focusing capabilities.
  • Filters: ICM photography requires long shutter speeds, which means you’ll need to control the amount of light hitting the camera sensor. If you shoot during the early morning or evening, you’re good to go. But if you want to try ICM during the day, consider using a neutral density (ND) filter. It acts like sunglasses for your lens, reducing the light and preventing overexposure. Another option is a polarizing filter, which cuts down on light and enhances colors. I personally prefer starting with a polarizing filter and adding a 2-stop or 4-stop ND filter if needed.
  • Tripod (optional): If you want ultra-smooth ICM images with flat horizons or vertical lines, a tripod can be helpful. Use a pan-and-tilt head for the best results. However, in most cases, a tripod isn’t necessary. You can achieve great ICM images with just your camera, lens, and creative movements.

Remember, the gear doesn’t make the photographer. It’s your creativity and vision that truly matter in ICM photography. So don’t worry if you don’t have the latest equipment. Focus on exploring the technique and capturing unique images with what you have.

The best ICM photography settings

If you’re ready to dive into the exciting world of intentional camera movement photography, it’s crucial to set your camera up properly to achieve those captivating and dreamy effects. Here are the essential ICM settings I recommend:

  • Shutter Priority mode
  • 1/2s shutter speed
  • ISO 100
  • Manual focus
  • Image stabilization off

Now let’s delve into these settings in greater detail. Doing intentional camera movement photography is all about controlling the shutter speed. Longer shutter speeds allow you to move your camera for more time, hence increasing the blur effect – whereas shorter shutter speeds only let you move your camera for fractions of a second, decreasing the blur effect. Therefore, by manually changing the shutter speed value, you can change the intensity of the effect!

Shutter Priority mode, unlike Aperture Priority, Program, or Auto mode, offers complete control over your camera’s shutter speed, making it an ideal choice for the ICM technique. You can set the desired shutter speed and ISO, while the camera automatically selects an appropriate aperture for a well-exposed image.

When it comes to selecting a specific shutter speed for ICM photography, there is no universal best choice. The desired effect depends on the look you want to achieve. For an ultra-abstract shot, you might opt for a longer exposure, such as 10 seconds. On the other hand, if you prefer a subtly blurry image, a faster shutter speed, like 1/30s, might be suitable.

Additionally, consider that the length of your lens can affect the level of blur, with longer lenses producing greater blur than wider lenses. However, as a starting point, I recommend trying out a shutter speed of 1/2s. If you’re uncertain, experiment with different shutter speeds, review the results on your camera’s screen, make adjustments, and continue refining your technique.

I highly recommend using your camera’s base ISO setting. Not only does it prevent unsightly noise from compromising your images, but it also allows you to extend the shutter speed further, even in bright lighting conditions.

And to ensure that your subject remains (relatively) sharp, manually focus your lens in advance. This way, you won’t have to worry about the camera struggling to find focus, which can be a problem in low-light situations or when using a neutral-density filter.

Finally, if your lens includes image stabilization, remember to deactivate it. Image stabilization tries to compensate for motion, which can hinder the desired blur effect in ICM photography.

How to do ICM photography: My three-step approach

Now that you’re familiar with the basic ICM settings and gear, it’s time to have some fun! Here’s what you do to achieve amazing results:

Step 1: Choose a subject

The first step to creating amazing ICM shots is selecting the perfect subject to work with.

Now, you might be wondering, “What’s the best subject for ICM photography?” Well, the fantastic thing about ICM is that you can get creative with just about anything! But as you’re starting out, it’s helpful to pick a subject with clear lines and interesting shapes.

Imagine rows of majestic trees in a forest or the captivating horizon line at a beautiful beach. Even the edges of tall buildings can make for captivating ICM subjects. The more color and texture you can include in your scene, the better – it adds some wonderful pizzazz to your shot!

Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

Here’s a little tip: Shooting in low-light conditions is ideal for ICM. So if you can, try to plan your ICM adventures during the magical golden hours – just after sunrise and just before sunset – or during the enchanting blue hour. Working at night can also produce some stunning results.

Of course, you can experiment with ICM in bright light too – like on a sunny afternoon – but in that case, you’ll often need to use a filter to prevent overexposure.

Step 2: Select your settings and compose

Once you’ve got your subject in mind, let’s dive into the nitty-gritty of setting up your shot. It’s time to position your subject just right and get those settings dialed in. Here’s how to do it:

First things first, take a moment to frame your shot. Remember, the end result won’t resemble what you see through the viewfinder, but it’s still important to consider the size and position of the main elements in your scene. Move closer or farther away, or adjust your zoom, until you’re satisfied with the composition. Then switch your lens to manual focus and turn the lens focus ring until your subject is reasonably sharp.

Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

Set your camera to Shutter Priority mode and immediately choose ISO 100. Think about how heavily you want your subject to blur and choose a shutter speed accordingly. As I said above, 1/2s is a good starting point, but you might potentially start at 1s or more if you want a lot of blur.

One important note: Keep an eye on the aperture value suggested by your camera. If it’s blinking or showing “high,” it means the light is too strong, and your image will be overexposed. In that case, you have two options. You can either increase the shutter speed until the blinking disappears, or you can use a filter to reduce the amount of light entering the camera. (If you do add a filter, make sure you check the aperture value one more time before proceeding!)

Step 3: Move your camera while pressing the shutter

Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

At this point, you’re ready to take a photo, so start moving your camera in a smooth and deliberate manner. It’s up to you how you want to move it – you can experiment with circles, straight lines, zigzags, or even rotating the camera for a spiral effect. You can also play around with changing the focal length on your lens during the exposure to create a zoom effect. The key is to let your imagination run wild and explore different movements.

Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

Once you’ve got your camera in motion, gently press the shutter button while keeping the camera moving. This simultaneous movement and shutter press is what will give your photo that unique and captivating look.

Remember, the final outcome of your images will depend on the speed, direction, and smoothness of your camera movements. So, don’t be afraid to try out different techniques and experiment with various styles. Each shot you take will have its own distinctive character.

tree at sunset ICM

After capturing a shot, take a moment to review it on the LCD screen of your camera. Ask yourself some questions: Was the shutter speed too fast or too slow? Does the composition look pleasing to the eye? How did the camera movement you chose impact the overall image?

Based on your assessment, make any necessary adjustments to your settings and approach, and give it another go. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts don’t turn out as expected. ICM photography is all about trial and error, so keep exploring and refining your technique.

Intentional camera movement tips

Looking to quickly elevate your ICM photography? These tips and tricks can make a huge difference!

1. Take a lot of photos

river weeds ICM

ICM photography is a fascinating and unpredictable technique that requires a bit of trial and error to master. If you’re only snapping a few shots, chances are you won’t end up with anything extraordinary, and you’ll miss out on valuable learning opportunities.

To truly excel at intentional camera movement, you need to dedicate ample time to shooting and exploring different possibilities. Don’t be afraid to click that shutter button repeatedly! The more photos you take, the more you’ll familiarize yourself with the nuances of ICM and understand what works and what doesn’t.

Once you’ve captured a bunch of shots, set aside some quality time to review them. Take a close look at each image and consider what you like and dislike about it. Pay attention to the various elements, the movement, and the overall composition. This process of reflection and analysis will help you refine your technique and develop your own unique style.

Additionally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different focal lengths and subjects. By trying out various approaches, you’ll gain a better sense of your preferences and discover the aspects of ICM photography that truly resonate with you.

2. Consider including one sharp element

intentional camera movement in bluebell woods

Intentional camera movement photography is all about creating abstract images, but adding a touch of clarity or a recognizable element can enhance the overall impact of your final photo. Think of it as giving your viewer an anchor amidst the artistic chaos.

Including at least one sharp or easily identifiable subject within your abstract composition can provide a point of reference for your audience. It gives them something to hold onto while they explore the mesmerizing swirls and blurs of the image.

For example, imagine capturing the graceful movement of trees in a forest, with branches blending into a dreamy haze. Amidst this captivating blur, having one tree trunk sharply in focus can create a striking contrast. It draws attention and adds a sense of structure to the otherwise ethereal scene.

The sharp element could be anything that stands out in the midst of your intentional camera movements. It could be a person’s silhouette, a prominent architectural feature, or even a colorful object placed strategically within the frame. The key is to ensure that this element remains clear and distinct, providing a visual focal point.

3. Shoot the same subject at different times

Intentional camera movement (ICM) photography

Now here’s a trick that can really level up your intentional camera movement skills: shoot the same subject at different times of the day. Light and shadow play a significant role in ICM, and by capturing your subject during various lighting conditions, you’ll discover how the atmosphere and mood can change dramatically.

Once you’ve found a subject that catches your eye, don’t just snap a single shot and move on. Make a mental note of the subject and return to it repeatedly, capturing ICM shots at different times, such as during the golden hours (just after sunrise and just before sunset), the blue hour (the brief period before sunrise and after sunset), or even at night.

By exploring these different timeframes, you’ll witness how the interplay of light and shadow transforms your subject, creating unique and captivating ICM images. Not only will this allow you to experiment with different effects, but it will also give you a chance to refine your skills and find your own personal style.

Intentional camera movement photography: final words

And there you have it! We’ve reached the end of our wild and wonderful journey through the world of ICM photography. You’ve learned the ins and outs of this mesmerizing technique, including what it is, how it works, and you can use it to capture amazing abstract images.

Remember, intentional camera movement is all about breaking free from the constraints of traditional photography and letting your imagination run wild. It’s about capturing the essence of a subject through streaks of color, rough shapes, and beautiful light.

Grab your camera, go out into the world, and start practicing. Embrace the happy accidents, learn from the not-so-successful experiments, and keep pushing your boundaries. It may take a few shots (or a few hundred) to find your rhythm and discover your signature style, so whatever you do, don’t give up!

Now over to you:

Do you have any ICM tips we missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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The post ICM Photography: A Guide to Intentional Camera Movement appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Richard Beech.



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[Photography] 16 Best Lenses for Portrait Photography (2023)

The post 16 Best Lenses for Portrait Photography (2023) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

The best lenses for portrait photography

Struggling to pick the perfect portrait lens? We’ve handpicked 16 outstanding options to elevate your photos.

Selecting the best lens for portrait photography can be overwhelming, but it’s also an essential task, whether you’re a beginner, an intermediate enthusiast, or a professional. The right portrait lens will capture crisp, flattering images with a beautiful background blur – while the wrong portrait lens will produce soft photos that are prone to unpleasant distortion.

The good news is that there are plenty of amazing portrait lenses available, and many of them come with relatively affordable price tags. The bad news is that sorting through the wide array of focal lengths, features, compatibilities, sizes, and prices can be a time-consuming headache. Fortunately, I’ve been capturing portraits for years, and I think I can help you out.

Below, I share the 16 best portrait lenses for photographers, including options for a variety of different camera types (DSLR and mirrorless, full-frame and APS-C), and portrait specialties. My list of top-notch portrait glass also offers selections for beginners on a budget, professionals seeking the best of the best, and everything in between.

Ready to grab the lens that’ll take your portraits to the next level? Let’s dive right in, starting with my number one pick:

1. Nikon 50mm f/1.8G

Best lens for portrait photography Nikon 50mm f/1.8G

The Nikon 50mm f/1.8G is far and away my top pick for beginners who want to get into portrait photography without spending a lot of money. The lens is tack sharp and focuses quickly, and the 50mm focal length is great for headshots, medium shots, and even wider shots with groups. The large f/1.8 aperture turns busy backgrounds into buttery smooth bokeh, and it works great in low-light situations, too. I have been shooting with this lens for nearly a decade and still bring it with me to portrait sessions because it just works so well.

You can also find similar inexpensive lenses from Sony, Canon, and other manufacturers – several of which are featured on this list! – so if you don’t shoot with Nikon cameras, you can still pick up a 50mm f/1.8 lens for your camera at a great price. That said, I have used versions from other brands and tend to prefer the Nikon, but perhaps that’s just my own personal bias; all of them do a great job with portraits and other photography situations, too.

These 50mm lenses often don’t include advanced features like weather sealing or metal construction, but if you keep your expectations in check and are just looking for an outstanding lens to shoot portraits without breaking the bank, this is the one to get.

Pros

  • Inexpensive; great price-to-performance ratio
  • Well-built
  • Very sharp
  • Amazing upgrade choice for new photographers who want better portraits than what their kit lens can offer

Cons

  • Shooting wide open results in some unpleasant image artifacts like chromatic aberration and an overall drop in sharpness
  • The focusing ring feels a little cheap and stiff

2. Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM

Best lens for portrait photography Sony FE 85mm f/1.4 GM

In many ways, the Sony 85mm f/1.4 GM lens is a peer to other 85mm f/1.8 options – such as the excellent Canon earlier on this list – but has enough unique features to earn a spot for itself. Everything you might expect is here: exquisite sharpness, beautiful background blur, fast autofocus, and sealing against dust and moisture. However, this lens also includes a few extra features that certain portrait photographers will appreciate.

The built-in focus lock button is great if you want to use the shutter button for focusing while instantly locking focus at a moment’s notice (it essentially eliminates the need for back-button focus). Also, this lens has a ring that lets you change apertures manually right on the lens instead of using a control dial on your camera. The ring clicks on third-stop increments, but the sound can be disabled for those planning to shoot video.

Pros

  • 85mm focal length is versatile and highly useful for lots of portrait scenarios
  • Good manual controls, including focus lock and aperture
  • Excellent image quality

Cons

  • More expensive than similar 85mm lenses from Canon and Nikon
  • No image stabilization, but most Sony cameras have in-body image stabilization

3. Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM

Best lens for portrait photography Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM

The Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens is an absolute gem, particularly for beginner and intermediate portrait photographers who are using one of Canon’s fantastic RF-mount mirrorless cameras. This lens offers a plethora of benefits that will take your portrait shots to the next level.

First and foremost, the 50mm focal length of this lens is incredibly versatile. It allows you to capture a wide range of portrait styles, from half-body shots that highlight the subject’s expression and details, to full-body compositions that showcase their entire presence. Additionally, if you’re into environmental portraits where the subject is placed within a specific context or location, the 50mm focal length excels in capturing the perfect balance between the subject and their surroundings.

One standout feature of the Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM is its impressive maximum aperture of f/1.8. This wide aperture not only allows you to create stunning background bokeh, with creamy and beautifully blurred backgrounds, but it also proves to be invaluable in low-light situations. When shooting without flash in dimly lit environments, the wide maximum aperture enables you to maintain a fast shutter speed, resulting in sharp and well-exposed portraits even in challenging lighting conditions.

In terms of ergonomics, this lens hits the mark. It’s compact, lightweight, and incredibly portable, making it an ideal choice for photographers on the go. Whether you’re exploring the streets or traveling to distant lands, you can easily slip the Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM into your bag or purse and have it readily available whenever the perfect portrait opportunity arises.

And let’s not forget the best part: the price. The Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM offers outstanding value for money. It’s one of those lenses that won’t break the bank but delivers exceptional performance and image quality. So, if you’re looking for a lens for portraits that combines affordability, versatility, and remarkable results, the Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM is a fantastic choice that won’t disappoint.

Pros

  • Very inexpensive
  • Solid optics (especially for the price)
  • Easily Canon’s best RF-mount portrait lens for beginners
  • Versatile focal length

Cons

  • Only works on Canon RF-mount cameras

4. Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R

Best lens for portrait photography Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2

Fujifilm may not be as widely recognized as Canon, Nikon, or Sony, but they certainly know how to create exceptional portrait lenses, and the Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R is a shining example. This lens offers remarkable capabilities that will elevate your portrait photography to new heights.

When you attach the Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R to your Fujifilm APS-C camera, you’ll enjoy the equivalent focal length of approximately 85mm. This focal length is perfect for capturing tighter portraits, such as head-and-shoulder shots, half-body compositions, and captivating headshots that showcase the subject’s unique personality.

One of the standout features of this lens is its impressive sharpness. The images it produces are incredibly detailed, ensuring that you’ll impress your models, clients, and viewers alike. Whether you’re sharing your portraits on social media, displaying them on a website, or printing them in large format, the quality will be nothing short of outstanding.

Although the Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R is not the smallest lens out there, it remains highly portable, making it a reliable companion for your photography endeavors. Even when mounted on a smaller Fujifilm APS-C camera, it doesn’t add excessive bulk, allowing you to carry it comfortably wherever your creative journeys take you.

What truly sets this lens apart is its maximum aperture of f/1.2. With such a wide aperture, you can achieve breathtaking bokeh that instantly adds a professional touch to your portraits. The creamy background blur adds a dreamy quality to the images, drawing attention to the subject and creating a captivating visual impact. While shooting at f/1.2 requires careful focusing, you can still achieve excellent results by stopping down to f/1.4 or f/1.8, expanding your creative possibilities.

The Fujinon XF 56mm f/1.2 R is an incredible lens that delivers exceptional image quality and allows you to explore various creative avenues in portrait photography. While it may not be as widely known as other brands, its performance and features are nothing short of impressive. Whether you’re a dedicated Fujifilm shooter or simply seeking an outstanding portrait photography setup, this gem should definitely be on your radar.

Pros

  • Great build quality
  • Stunningly sharp
  • Amazing f/1.2 maximum aperture
  • Gorgeous bokeh

Cons

  • The price is a bit high for beginners
  • Limited portability

5. Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM

Best lens for portrait photography Canon EF 85mm f/1.4 IS USM

The Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM is revered among portrait photographers for its stunning sharpness as well as sheer versatility. It has long been a favorite of Canon shooters and with good reason: the 85mm focal length is great for headshots and medium shots, plus full-body and group photos, too. It’s light, reasonably sized, and built to withstand the elements as well as some drops and falls. I know professional portrait photographers who use this lens exclusively, even over other options at their disposal like a 70-200mm f/2.8.

One key advantage of this particular lens is its built-in image stabilization, which is exceptionally useful when handholding at slower shutter speeds. Even though the f/1.4 aperture can let in a massive amount of light and will therefore let you use fast shutter speeds in low light, I generally don’t shoot portraits wide open because the depth of field is so tricky. You can easily shoot at 1/30s with this lens and capture sharp images (assuming your subjects are completely stationary!). There isn’t really a one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to portrait lenses, but this one is pretty close.

Pros

  • Outstanding image quality
  • Ultra-wide aperture increases overall versatility and lets you shoot in low-light situations
  • Built-in image stabilization lets you use slower shutter speeds
  • Good weather sealing

Cons

  • Expensive compared to its f/1.8 counterparts, which produce great images at a much lower price point

6. Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR

Best lens for portrait photography Nikon AF-S 70-200mm f/2.8E FL ED VR

The venerable 70-200mm f/2.8 lens has been a mainstay for many portrait photographers over the years, and this particular lens represents what is, in my opinion, the cream of the crop. There are plenty of other choices, including newer lenses from Nikon, Canon, and Sony that are specifically designed for mirrorless cameras, but this particular 70-200mm f/2.8 represents the pinnacle of lens construction for DSLR cameras. It’s tack sharp at every aperture including wide open at f/2.8, it’s designed to withstand years of daily use, and it has customizable buttons built right into the barrel so you can adapt the lens to your needs.

Portrait photographers love 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses because they give outstanding results without many compromises. You can get headshots, full-body portraits, and entire group photos where everyone is in focus but the background is beautifully blurry. The wide f/2.8 aperture lets in enough light for fast shutter speeds in almost any situation, and most of these lenses (including this particular Nikon) have built-in image stabilization. If you shoot Canon, the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS III USM lens is on par with this Nikon in virtually every respect, and while some nitpicky pixel-peepers might prefer one over the other, the truth is that they both deliver outstanding results.

Pros

  • Amazing image quality, even wide open at f/2.8
  • This lens solves the “focus breathing” issue that plagued previous versions of the same lens
  • Suited to portraits, but also great for sports, action, and wildlife

Cons

  • Very expensive, which puts it out of reach for casual portrait photographers
  • Heavy; by the end of an hour-long session, your arms will feel like wet noodles

7. Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM

The best lens for portrait photography Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM

If you’re serious about your portrait photography and in need of a lens that excels at capturing headshots and tighter compositions, look no further than the Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM. This lens is a true powerhouse when it comes to delivering exceptional image quality and versatility.

Let’s talk about the optics first. The Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 is a master of sharpness, capturing every intricate detail with breathtaking clarity. Whether you’re photographing a professional model or a loved one, this lens ensures that your portraits will come out tack-sharp and highly detailed.

One of the standout features of this lens is its telephoto focal length of 135mm. This length provides a beautiful compression effect, which is not only highly flattering for your subjects but also helps in creating stunning bokeh. The background blur produced by the wide f/1.8 maximum aperture is simply mesmerizing, instantly elevating the overall aesthetics of your portraits.

Low-light situations pose no challenge for the Sony FE 135mm f/1.8. With its wide aperture, you can confidently shoot in dimly lit environments without compromising image quality. Whether you’re capturing portraits at a dimly lit venue or during the golden hour, this lens allows you to maintain a fast shutter speed, resulting in sharp images that truly shine.

It’s important to note that this lens is not the most compact option out there, so it may not be the best choice for casual or travel-oriented portrait photography. However, if you’re seeking to take your portraits to the next level and already have a 50mm and an 85mm lens in your kit, the Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 is an excellent addition. Its exceptional image quality, telephoto reach, and ability to handle low light make it a go-to choice for professionals and serious enthusiasts.

While the Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 comes with a higher price tag, its performance and image results make it worth every penny. If you’re looking to invest in a lens that truly showcases your subject in the best possible light, this lens will not disappoint.

Pros

  • Gorgeous bokeh
  • f/1.8 maximum aperture
  • Great focal length for headshots
  • Solid build

Cons

  • Extremely expensive
  • Big and heavy

8. Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM

The best lens for portrait photography Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM

Now, let’s talk about a lens that truly stands out in the world of portrait photography: the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM. This lens has gained a well-deserved reputation among professionals and serious enthusiasts alike.

What sets the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM apart is its exceptional image quality and versatility. The lens boasts insanely sharp optics that capture every detail with stunning clarity. Whether you’re shooting headshots, half-body portraits, or even environmental portraits, this lens delivers outstanding results.

But what truly makes the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM shine is its wide maximum aperture of f/1.2. This is a rare feature that allows you to achieve incredibly smooth and creamy bokeh, separating your subject from the background in a breathtaking way. Whether you’re shooting in a studio or a natural environment, this lens will give your portraits that professional, dreamy look.

Beyond its optical prowess, the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM offers a fantastic focal length for a wide range of portrait styles and approaches. It provides just the right amount of compression to flatter your subjects, making it ideal for capturing emotions and expressions with depth and impact. Whether you’re photographing individuals or couples, this lens excels in creating captivating portraits that tell a story.

Now, it’s important to note that the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM is not without its drawbacks. Firstly, it is on the larger and heavier side, which may make it less ideal for casual or on-the-go shooting. Additionally, the price tag of this lens is in the mid-$2000s, placing it in the higher-end range. However, for professionals and serious enthusiasts who value uncompromising image quality and exceptional performance, the Canon RF 85mm f/1.2L USM is a true gem that will elevate your portrait photography to new heights.

Pros

  • f/1.2 maximum aperture
  • Classic portrait focal length
  • Beautiful image quality

Cons

  • Pricey
  • RF-mount only

9. Sigma 40mm f/1.4 DG HSM | Art

Best lens for portrait photography Sigma 40mm f/1.4 DG HSM | Art

If you want something a little more interesting and unique, and are looking for a way to make your pictures stand out in a crowded field, this Sigma 40mm lens might be just the ticket. Its 40mm focal length is wider than every other lens on this list, perfect for photographers who prefer to let a little more into their field of view to get a unique look. It’s razor sharp even wide open, and the f/1.4 aperture means you can get full-body shots while keeping the background nice and blurry.

Autofocus is fast, though it’s not quite comparable to other lenses like the Canon 85mm f/1.4, and this lens is a heavy beast that will give your arms a workout. The 40mm focal length results in a bit of distortion when shooting close-ups and headshots, but in normal daily use this wasn’t a huge problem for me. Despite these drawbacks, there’s almost an intangible beauty to this lens that’s difficult to describe, which makes it wonderful for portraits as well as everyday shooting. I especially like how I can get several people in a shot for group portrait scenarios and still create a beautiful blurry background; at the end of the day, those results matter to me more than anything else.

Pros

  • Amazing sharpness, even wide open at f/1.4
  • Good choice for daily use in mixed environments, not just portraits
  • Solid construction and an extra-large rubber grip around the focusing ring

Cons

  • Expensive; it shoots great photos, but you pay a premium
  • 40mm is good for portraits, but not as widely used as longer focal lengths like 85mm
  • Autofocus is fine, but not as fast as some class-leading lenses

10. Nikon Z 85mm f/1.8 S

Best lens for portrait photography Nikon Z 85mm f/1.8 S

You might notice a pattern emerging on this list; after all, the Nikon Z 85mm f/1.8 is the third 85mm prime lens on here, which might seem redundant. Why not include other lenses with more varied focal lengths? Well, 85mm is the sweet spot for many portrait photographers, and when Nikon made this lens for their Z-mount mirrorless cameras, they took everything they had learned from their already-exceptional F-mount DSLR lenses and kicked it up a notch. It’s got everything you would expect in a lens of this caliber and in this price range: sharp optics, solid construction, a massive grip for focusing, and good weather sealing – all in a package that isn’t too big and won’t weigh you down during long photo sessions.

While it’s true that the f/1.8 aperture isn’t as wide as the Canon 85mm f/1.4 or Sony 85mm f/1.4, this lens is also much less expensive and gets the job done nearly as well. And f/1.8 lenses can still be used in low light and are capable of very shallow depth of field, even if it’s not quite as shallow as its f/1.4 brethren. (For reference, I almost never shoot my Nikon 85mm lens wider than f/2 or f/2.4, since the depth of field is wafer-thin.) The 85mm f/1.8 doesn’t have built-in image stabilization, but almost every Nikon mirrorless camera comes with that already, so you can get sharp shots at slow shutter speeds even with non-stabilized lenses. If you use Nikon Z-mount cameras and want a great portrait lens without breaking the bank, this is the one to get.

Pros

  • Excellent image quality even on high-megapixel cameras like the Nikon Z7 II
  • Massive rubberized focus ring is easy to grip and rotate, and can also be assigned to adjust aperture or exposure compensation
  • Very good autofocus is well-suited to photos and videos

Cons

  • Maximum f/1.8 aperture isn’t as bright as some competing lenses that go to f/1.4 or f/1.2
  • Some photographers prefer slightly smaller lenses

11. Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM

Best lens for portrait photography Canon EF 50mm f/1.2

This Canon 50mm f/1.2 lens was introduced in 2007 and has earned its place among the best portrait lenses for a very good reason: it has the widest aperture of any lens on this list, which means you can use it in extremely challenging situations with very little light. Plus, if you prefer ultra-shallow depth of field, you can’t go wrong here. Its weather-sealing means you don’t have to worry about moisture or dust ruining your shots, and autofocus is fast and reliable. Images are sharp, background blur is beautiful, and the lens is small enough to take anywhere.

I hesitate to recommend this lens outright for portrait photography, because generally a 50mm f/1.8 lens will suit you just fine at a fraction of the cost. However, there are plenty of portrait shooters who swear by the 50mm focal length, and it’s hard to beat this classic, simple lens. Canon does have a similar 50mm f/1.2 lens for their mirrorless cameras, but it is almost twice as expensive as this one. If you are new to portraits, a 50mm f/1.8 lens will work great, but if you want the best of what 50mm photography has to offer, this lens is at (or near) the very top.

Pros

  • Very small; can easily fit in any camera bag
  • Great for casual everyday shots in addition to formal portraits
  • Extra-wide f/1.2 aperture lets you shoot in low-light conditions and use very fast shutter speeds
  • Outstanding sharpness and overall image quality, especially compared to less-expensive 50mm lenses

Cons

  • Very expensive
  • Great for photographers who really like the 50mm focal length, but if you don’t mind a smaller aperture, you can get similar (but not the same) performance with a much cheaper 50mm f/1.8 lens

12. Nikon 105mm f/1.4E ED

Best lens for portrait photography Nikon 105mm f/1.4

In late 2016, Nikon unleashed the 105mm f/1.4E ED, which still stands head and shoulders above almost every other portrait lens on the market. It checks nearly every possible box a portrait photographer might have on their wishlist, and to this day, it is widely regarded as one of the best portrait lenses of all time. Its medium telephoto focal length of 105mm means you can get beautiful close-ups without standing nose-to-nose with your subjects, and its incredible sharpness is the envy of many photographers. The insane f/1.4 aperture on this lens makes 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses weep, its autofocus is fast and reliable, and it even includes weather sealing so you can shoot in inclement weather.

If you like photographing portraits with medium-telephoto focal lengths, you’ll love the 105mm f/1.4. You can get stunning close-ups and beautiful medium shots, all with amazing sharpness and beautiful background blur. This performance doesn’t come cheap, though, and you can’t really use the Nikon 105mm f/1.4 for much besides portraits. It’s too bulky for daily casual shooting, and the 105mm focal length is ill-suited for nature, sports, and most other types of photography. But if you want a no-compromise portrait lens, the kind that lets you get a subject’s pupil in focus with the eyelashes blurry, this is the way to go.

Pros

  • Astonishing image quality; an ideal combination of focal length and large aperture
  • Can be easily used on newer mirrorless Nikon cameras with no loss in image quality
  • Exquisite background blur
  • Artifacts such as chromatic aberration are well-controlled even at its widest aperture

Cons

  • Very expensive (though you get what you pay for!)
  • Large and heavy
  • 82mm filter size means screw-on attachments like ND filters are also much more expensive

13. Canon RF 28-70mm f/2L USM

Best lens for portrait photography Canon RF 28-70mm f/2 L USM

Some portrait photographers prefer a wider field of view, and some like a lens that is a bit more narrow. Why not have one lens that does both? Most zoom lenses have too many tradeoffs to be taken seriously by portrait photographers, but Canon set out to solve that problem with this 28-70mm f/2 zoom lens. Built for Canon RF mirrorless cameras, this lens pushes past most of its peers thanks to the f/2 aperture instead of the f/2.8 aperture that is common for similar zoom lenses (albeit with the tiny sacrifice of 28mm at the wide end instead of 24mm).

I tend to prefer longer focal lengths than what this lens offers, but just like the Sigma 40mm f/1.4, there are plenty of people for whom this lens is ideal. While the 28-70mm focal length essentially does the same work as two or three other lenses, its price is so high you could just purchase individual lenses instead. However, for an all-in-one workhorse, this lens is hard to beat. As you might expect, it is extremely sharp wide open at all focal lengths, has fast and reliable autofocus, and even sports a control ring that can be customized to change settings like aperture and ISO. If you shoot with Canon mirrorless cameras, like wider focal lengths, and want one lens to rule them all, this should be at the top of your list.

Pros

  • Incredible versatility thanks to the extra-large f/2 maximum aperture across the entire focal range
  • Beautiful image quality at every focal length and aperture
  • Fast, reliable autofocus
  • Weather-resistant construction

Cons

  • Very expensive; given the price of this lens, some photographers might prefer buying a few prime lenses, instead
  • Minimum focal length isn’t as wide as the 24mm found on other lenses (however, 24-70mm lenses have smaller maximum apertures of f/2.8 instead of f/2)

14. Tamron 70-210mm f/4 Di VC USD

Best lens for portrait photography Tamron 70-210mm f/4 Di VC USD

Portrait purists might balk at the inclusion of this final entry, but that’s a mistake; the Tamron 70-210mm f/4 offers unreal value for the money, and it’s an amazing choice for people who want an excellent portrait lens that also works well for sports and wildlife, and who don’t have a lot of money to spend. Available for several hundred – as opposed to several thousand – dollars, this beauty from Tamron lets you get almost the same level of performance as high-end 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses and even includes image stabilization and weather sealing.

So what’s the catch? For one, the maximum aperture of f/4 will frustrate plenty of professional portrait photographers. It’s great if you have lots of light, but if you want a shallow depth of field or good low-light shots, you’re out of luck. It’s not a major drawback by any means, but it doesn’t quite stack up against some of the more professional-oriented portrait lenses you can buy. This lens also isn’t as sharp as its more expensive counterparts, especially in the corners, and build quality isn’t as solid as other lenses, either. However, what this lens lacks in features it more than makes up for in price. You can easily capture client-worthy portraits with this lens, and if you are a new photographer looking to get a lot while spending a little, this lens deserves your consideration.

Pros

  • Inexpensive but still produces quality portraits
  • 70-210mm focal range is longer than competing lenses
  • Respectable feature set including image stabilization
  • High-quality construction

Cons

  • Image quality can’t match the pixel-perfect sharpness of other lenses on this list
  • The f/4 aperture is limiting in low-light situations
  • Autofocus is good but not quite on par with other lenses

15. Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II

The best lens for portrait photography Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II

If you’re an all-around photographer who loves capturing portraits, events, and even street scenes, the Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM II is a solid choice that offers versatility and convenience. This zoom lens may not be the go-to option for portrait specialists seeking ultra-wide apertures and top-notch optics, but it brings a lot to the table for those who want to cover various shooting scenarios.

With a focal length range of 24-70mm, you have the flexibility to capture a wide range of images. Want to include the subject in their environment? Go wider and capture stunning environmental shots. Need to take full-body or half-body shots at an event? This lens has got you covered. And when it comes to tighter headshots, you can still achieve beautiful results with the 70mm reach.

The optical performance of this lens is impressive, capturing sharp and detailed images that can be printed to make great prints. While the maximum aperture of f/2.8 may not be as wide as the primes on this list, it still allows you to create pleasing bokeh and draw attention to your subject. It’s a balance between versatility and performance.

Keep in mind that zoom lenses with wider apertures tend to be pricier, and the Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM is no exception. Additionally, it’s not the most compact option, so if you prefer a more casual shooting style, you might find it a bit bulky. However, if you’re a professional Sony shooter looking for a reliable all-in-one solution, this lens is definitely worth considering.

So, if you want a lens that can handle a variety of shooting situations while delivering solid image quality, the Sony FE 24-70mm f/2.8 GM is an excellent choice for portrait photographers who like to explore different genres and capture diverse moments with ease.

Pros

  • Excellent focal-length range
  • Great optics
  • Outstanding build quality

Cons

  • Expensive
  • f/2.8 maximum aperture is somewhat limiting

16. Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S

The best lens for portrait photography Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S

Nikon Z-series photographers, get ready for a game-changer: the Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S lens. This lens marks a significant milestone for Nikon, as it’s been a while since they released a 50mm lens with autofocus technology. But let me tell you, it’s worth the wait!

Now, we all know the benefits of the classic 50mm focal length for portrait photography. It’s versatile, allowing you to capture a variety of shots from half-body portraits to headshots. But what sets this lens apart is its incredible f/1.2 maximum aperture. With such a wide aperture, you can achieve dreamy bokeh that adds a touch of magic to your portraits. Imagine a beautifully blurred background that makes your subject pop, creating that professional and artistic look.

When it comes to the optical quality, Nikon doesn’t disappoint. The image quality is simply stunning, delivering sharpness and clarity that will leave you in awe. Whether you’re capturing portraits for social media, printing large photos, or displaying your work on a website, this lens ensures your images will look their absolute best.

In terms of build quality, the Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S doesn’t cut any corners. It’s designed to withstand challenging shooting conditions, making it an excellent choice for outdoor portrait sessions. You can confidently shoot portraits on a beach, in the rain, or any other unpredictable environment without worrying about damaging your equipment.

What I particularly love about this lens is its ease of use. It features a large manual focusing ring that provides precise control, perfect for when you want to fine-tune the focus manually. Additionally, there’s a programmable control ring that allows you to customize its function according to your shooting preferences. It’s these little details that make the shooting experience with this lens so enjoyable and efficient.

Now, it’s worth noting that the Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 S lens is not lightweight. It has a solid build and feels substantial in your hands. If you prefer a more casual shooting style or prioritize portability, this lens might not be the best choice for you. However, for passionate Nikon Z users who want top-of-the-line performance and are willing to invest in quality, this lens is an enticing option that will take your portrait photography to new heights.

Pros

  • Breathtaking bokeh
  • Standard portrait focal length
  • Amazing low-light capabilities
  • Excellent ergonomics

Cons

  • Ultra-expensive
  • Heavy

Best lenses for portrait photography: final words

Those are my top picks for portrait lenses in 2023, and I hope this gives you several options to consider – whether you’re new to portraiture or you’re a seasoned professional looking to upgrade your gear.

Great glass is just one component of portrait photography, though. There are a host of other elements to consider, including lighting, composition, posing, use of props, and just getting to know your clients. Here at dPS, we have lots of resources for portrait photographers that cost far less than a new lens, so before you drop your next paycheck on more camera gear, consider upgrading your talent with some education and training. You might be surprised by what you can do with the gear you already have!

Now over to you:

Which portrait lens will you purchase? Why? Leave your thoughts in the comments below!

Best portrait photography lenses FAQ

Do I need a prime lens to shoot portraits?

No, but it helps. Prime lenses have wide apertures and sharp optics, which is why they are preferred by portrait photographers. Today’s zoom lenses are better than the zooms of ten or twenty years ago, but you will still get the best results with a prime lens.

What is the best focal length for portraits?

While everyone has their own preferences, 85mm is often considered to be a good portrait focal length. If you can only get one portrait lens, I would recommend going with an 85mm; this works well for headshots, full-body portraits, and group shots, too.

How can I shoot portraits with the kit zoom lens that came with my camera?

While I do not recommend kit zoom lenses for paid client work, it is certainly possible to shoot portraits with them. Zoom in as far as you can go, open your aperture as wide as possible, put a lot of distance between your subject and the background, and you can get some decent shots.

Is a DSLR or mirrorless camera better for portraits?

Either type of camera is fully capable of producing great portraits. Mirrorless cameras have features like eye-detect autofocus that can certainly help, but even today many photographers still prefer DSLRs over mirrorless. It all comes down to personal preference. Thankfully, if you currently shoot with a Nikon or Canon DSLR and want to upgrade to mirrorless someday, both companies make adapters that let you use your current lenses on mirrorless cameras without any drop in quality.

The post 16 Best Lenses for Portrait Photography (2023) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.



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Jul 2, 2023

[Photography] Focus Stacking: The Ultimate Guide (With Step-By-Step Instructions)

The post Focus Stacking: The Ultimate Guide (With Step-By-Step Instructions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.

A guide to focus stacking for tack-sharp images

Want every inch of your composition to look sharp? Discover how to transform your images using a powerful focus-stacking approach.

Focus stacking is a technique that takes photography to a whole new level; it helps you achieve an astounding depth of field and breathtaking clarity in your shots. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or an enthusiastic beginner, focus stacking is a game-changer that can elevate your images to new heights.

And while it’s a technique that photographers often find intimidating, it’s actually fairly straightforward – as long as you use a tried-and-test approach. That’s where I come in. I have plenty of experience using the photo stacking technique to capture tack-sharp shots of a variety of subjects.

In this article, I draw on my background to explain everything you need to know about focus stacking, including:

  • What it is and what the technique offers for photographers
  • When you should use focus stacking in your photos (and when you should avoid it)
  • The simple, step-by-step process to stack and merge your files
  • Advanced tips and tricks to improve your image stacks

So get ready to take your skills to the next level as we embark on a fascinating journey into the world of focus stacking. Here’s my guarantee: By the time you’re done reading, you’ll be able to stack landscape photos, macro photos, and much more.

Let’s dive right in, starting with the basics:

What is focus stacking?

Focus stacking is a technique designed to achieve a deep depth of field by blending (or stacking) several images together. Each stacked shot is focused in a different spot, so the combined depth of field is deeper than the depth of field produced by any of the individual images.

Focus Stacking: The Ultimate Guide (With Step-By-Step Instructions)
If you want to keep both the foreground elements and the background elements sharp, focus stacking is a viable option!

Feeling confused? Don’t be. While the concepts may sound tricky, the basic process is very simple:

  1. You take several images of a scene, making sure to focus on each part (i.e., the foreground, the middleground, and the background).
  2. You blend the images to achieve a final file that features a sharp foreground, a sharp middleground, and a sharp background.

Note that focusing stacking doesn’t require fancy equipment, either; you can focus stack with a standard camera (even a smartphone camera, in fact), though I do recommend you work with a tripod and a manual focus lens if you can, as I discuss in a moment.

When should you focus stack your photos?

Focus Stacking: The Ultimate Guide (With Step-By-Step Instructions)

Focus stacking is designed to overcome the limits of depth of field. In other words, focus stacking is only necessary if you’re faced with a scene that can’t be well handled by your camera setup’s current depth of field capabilities.

Now, if you’re familiar with camera optics, you’ll know that the depth of field is affected by three key factors:

So as you zoom your lens, move closer to your subject, or widen your lens aperture, the amount of the scene that’s in focus will decrease. On the other hand, as you widen your lens, move away from your subject, or narrow your lens aperture, the amount of the scene that’s in focus will increase.

In most situations, you can handle your depth of field requirements without focus stacking. If you’re faced by a sweeping landscape, you can choose a wide-angle lens and you can narrow your aperture; that way, you can capture the entire scene in focus using a deep depth of field. And if you’re faced by a standard close-up subject such as a flower, you can back up slightly from your subject and narrow your aperture to get your desirable depth of field.

But in a few situations, you won’t be able to achieve a deep enough depth of field to keep the entire shot sharp (from the nearest foreground element to the most distant background element).

Specifically, you’ll run into depth-of-field problems when working with:

  1. Very deep landscape scenes
  2. Ultra-close macro subjects
  3. Deep building interiors

Your depth of field just won’t be deep enough, and only parts of the shot will turn out sharp (while other parts will turn blurry).

Of course, you can always try to back up or use a wider lens, but that isn’t always feasible (especially if you’ve already chosen your composition). And you can narrow your aperture, but at a certain point, you’ll start to run into optical problems caused by diffraction.

In such cases, you have two options:

You can take a single shot with a shallower depth of field and try to make the effect work. (Shallow depth of field shots can look beautiful when done carefully!)

Or you can focus stack.

Essential focus-stacking gear

Focus stacking is a technique that can be done with just a smartphone camera and zero fancy equipment! However, if you’re serious about getting the best results, there are a few basic items that I highly recommend investing in. Here’s what I recommend:

  • A tripod. A tripod is your steadfast companion in focus stacking. It keeps your camera steady and ensures consistent composition as you capture a series of images. It’s a game-changer when it comes to achieving sharp, aligned shots.
  • An interchangeable-lens camera. To have full control over your camera settings and the flexibility to swap lenses for different compositions, an interchangeable-lens camera is the way to go. Whether it’s a mirrorless camera or a DSLR, any model will do the job just fine. Don’t fret too much about the specific camera model; focus on the features that suit your genres of interest.
  • A lens that offers manual focusing. When it comes to focus stacking, having a lens capable of manual focusing is crucial. Manual focus allows you to precisely control the point of focus by rotating a ring on the lens. Fortunately, most lenses offer a switch for toggling between manual and autofocus, but before you get started, it’s essential to ensure you have at least one lens that can be manually focused.
  • Focus-stacking software. While some cameras offer built-in automatic focus stacking, I strongly recommend using dedicated stacking software for more control and optimal results. Options like Photoshop provide solid stacking capabilities, but you might also want to consider specialized programs like Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker for their powerful stacking features.

How to focus stack: step by step

Want to get started stacking your images? Let’s take a look at how you can successfully carry out this technique, from shooting in the field to blending the images on the computer.

Step 1: Pick your subject, choose a composition, and set your exposure

Focus stacking starts by locking down a subject and a composition.

Mount your camera on a tripod and carefully compose your photo. If you don’t have a tripod, you can do handheld focus stacking, but you’ll need to maintain the composition as carefully as possible.

(Quick aside: You’ll struggle to focus stack scenes that feature moving subjects, which is part of the reason why portrait photographers, wildlife photographers, and street photographers rarely use this technique. Pick a scene that will remain steady for the few minutes it takes to set up your shot.)

Next, set your camera to Manual mode, then dial in an exposure. You should use the camera’s exposure meter and histogram to guide you, and note that the exposure will remain fixed across all focus-stacked shots. Once you’ve set your exposure, you should not change it, or else you’ll need to do extra work standardizing the exposures when blending your shots later. (For the same reason, I’d also recommend you select a white balance preset and dial it in. It doesn’t need to be perfect – you can always make changes in post-processing – but if you can keep the white balance consistent, it’ll make your job much easier down the line.)

And by the way: Before you proceed with the rest of the focus-stacking steps, make sure that your scene actually requires focus stacking. If you’re using a wide-angle lens, you can probably shoot most landscape scenes at f/16 or so and get an image that’s sharp throughout. It’s only when you add in close foreground objects – thus increasing scene depth – that focus stacking becomes essential.

Not sure whether focus stacking is necessary? Take a test shot with your lens focused about one-third of the way into the scene, then review it on your camera LCD. Zoom in and check both the foreground and background. If everything turned out sharp, then you’re good to go – but if parts of the shot are blurry, then you’ll need to proceed with the focus stacking technique.

Step 2: Switch your lens to manual focus and take your first shot

Set your lens to manual focus. (There’s usually a little AF/MF switch on the barrel.)

Then manual focus on the nearest part of the scene, such as the sand in the foreground (if you’re shooting a seascape) or the tip of the flower petal (if you’re shooting a close-up).

(If you’re using a camera that doesn’t offer manual focus, then you can autofocus on the nearest part of the scene. Just make sure that you get the autofocus point exactly where you want it.)

Take the first shot, making sure your exposure and composition remain locked in place.

Step 3: Take your remaining images

At this point, you simply need to take a series of images while slowly moving the focus away from the foreground. Adjust the focus, take a shot, adjust again, take another shot, and so on, until you’ve captured a sharp version of every part of the scene.

How many images do you need? That really depends on your scene/subject. Most focus-stacked landscapes require just two or three shots (one for the foreground and one for the background, or one each for the foreground, middleground, and background). The exception is if the foreground is unusually close to your lens or you’re using a telephoto focal length, in which case you may need four, five, or more images.

focus-stacked building with fence and garden
To get this shot, I took three photos. The first was focused on the fence, the second was focused midway into the scene, and the third was focused on the front of the house.

Macro focus stacking, on the other hand, is more time-consuming. You’ll often need to shoot 8+ images (and sometimes upwards of 20, especially if you’re working at 1:1 magnifications or beyond). The image on the left is a single shot, but the image on the right is a 12-image focus stack:

two versions of a flower image, one with focus stacking and one without

(If you’re looking to get into serious macro focus stacking, I’d recommend you invest in a focus rail, which will help you adjust your point of focus more precisely.)

Over time, you’ll get a sense of how many shots are required for a focus-stacked scene, but when in doubt, take too many images, not too few. You can always discard similar shots later, but if you fail to capture enough shots, you’ll end up with a bad final result.

aster flowers focus stacked

Step 4: Blend the images in post-processing

Blending a handful of files might sound difficult, but it’s actually pretty easy; various programs, including Photoshop, automate the process. The instructions below reference Photoshop, but you can get similar (or better) results with a program like Helicon Focus.

First, add your focus-stacking series to your hard drive. Open Photoshop, then select File>Scripts>Load Files into Stack:

selecting the Load Files into Stack option in Photoshop

A Load Layers window will appear; click Browse, then select your files:

Clicking the Browse option in Photoshop

Check the Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images box in the Load Layers window. Then hit OK.

Checking the Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images in Photoshop

Take a look at the Layers palette. You should see all of your files listed as separate layers. Select every layer, then go to Edit>Auto-Blend Layers.

Make sure to check the Stack Images option, and be sure to check the Seamless Tones and Colors checkbox:

Check the Seamless Tones and Colors box in Photoshop

Finally, click OK.

After a few moments of processing, you’ll see your final stacked image appear. You may notice issues along the edges, which you can simply crop away.

Finally, select Layer>Flatten Image, and you’re done! You can now edit the photo like any other file.

One recommendation:

Before you export a stacked image, zoom in to 100% and check over the details. Occasionally, the software will struggle to blend the files, which will result in a few strange artifacts. You can remove these pretty easily with the Healing Brush, but if you don’t check, you may end up exporting an imperfect shot.

Tips and tricks for improving your image stacks

Once you understand the focus-stacking basics, you’ll be able to get solid results by following the step-by-step instructions I shared above. However, if you want to take your stacks above and beyond, here are a handful of additional expert tips:

1. Watch out for moving subjects

Getting beautiful focus-stacked shots can be pretty straightforward, especially when you’re photographing scenes with minimal movement, like still-life images or desert landscapes. But as soon as you add movement into the mix, things get more complicated. Let’s say your scene features a tree waving in the wind. In this case, each file in the stack will capture the tree in a different position, making it very difficult, or even impossible, to blend effectively.

To overcome this challenge, it’s crucial to shoot without movement in the scene. If you’re photographing a flower on a windy day, consider using a plamp to hold it in place or even use your body to block the wind. By ensuring a stationary subject, you’ll be able to capture a series of images with consistent focus points for successful stacking.

Alternatively, if capturing a moving subject is essential to your composition, you can take a different approach. Capture an image stack while ensuring the moving subject is captured with sufficient depth of field in a single image. Then, if needed, you can use manual masking techniques to overlay the sharply focused moving subject onto the scene.

With careful masking, you can also remove any areas where the moving subject created a ghosting effect, resulting in a seamless and striking focus-stacked image.

2. Use a remote release when stacking in low light

Stacking can be done in good light, in which case your shutter speed will generally be fast enough to prevent vibrations caused by pressing the shutter button.

But if you’re shooting indoors or after the sun has set, you may struggle to get a shutter speed above 1/60s or so. If that’s the case, your tripod will prevent more general camera shake, but a remote release offers a handy method of avoiding blur caused by each press of the shutter button. This device allows you to trigger the camera from a distance, ensuring minimal vibrations and maximum sharpness throughout your image stack.

Here’s how it works in practice: After adjusting the focus, you can wait for any vibrations to settle, then trigger the camera using the remote release. Once the image is captured, you can adjust the focus again, wait for stability, and repeat the process until you have obtained the complete series of images for your focus stack.

3. Don’t be afraid to try handheld stacking

While using a tripod is highly recommended for focus stacking, it’s not always feasible or practical in every situation. Thankfully, there’s an alternative technique known as handheld focus stacking that can produce impressive results without the need for cumbersome support.

To perform handheld focus stacking, you’ll need to keep your framing consistent as you capture a series of images. You can lean against a sturdy object or find a comfortable position to stabilize yourself. The key is to minimize camera movement between shots.

While handheld stacking may not yield the same level of precision as using a tripod, the results can still be quite solid. It’s important to note that you may lose some content along the edges of the frame, requiring a crop during post-processing. To mitigate this, it’s advisable to deliberately compose a little wider than your desired final composition, providing room for cropping later on.

Keep in mind that practice and experimentation will help you refine your handheld focus stacking technique. With experience, you’ll be able to capture a series of images with consistent framing and achieve impressive focus-stacked results even without a tripod!

4. Combine focus stacking and HDR photography for outstanding results

Looking to focus stack at sunrise and sunset? If you find yourself faced with a scene that has both a wide dynamic range and requires focus stacking, you don’t have to choose one technique over the other. You can actually combine focus stacking and HDR to achieve a truly outstanding result.

HDR (high dynamic range) techniques are often favored by landscape photographers, allowing them to capture scenes with a high dynamic range, encompassing both very bright and very dark areas like a vibrant sunset. Modern cameras often struggle to capture such scenes without blowing out the highlights or underexposing the shadows.

The HDR technique involves capturing a series of shots of the same composition, each exposed separately for the dark portions, light portions, and mid-toned portions. These images are then blended together in post-processing to create a final result that retains detail throughout the entire dynamic range.

Now, what if you want to focus stack a scene with a high dynamic range? The good news is that you don’t have to choose one technique at the expense of the other. You can combine focus stacking and HDR for exceptional outcomes.

Instead of capturing just one image each time you adjust the lens focus, capture multiple images for each focus point, ensuring that you also expose separately for the different tones in the image. In post-processing, merge each set of bracketed images in the stack, creating an HDR version of each file. Once you have the HDR versions, continue with the standard focus-stacking approach.

By employing this combined technique, you can achieve a final image that not only boasts incredible depth of field through focus stacking but also maintains accurate exposure across the scene’s entire dynamic range. This powerful combination allows you to capture and showcase scenes with stunning detail, even in challenging lighting conditions.

5. Achieve precise macro stacking with a focusing rail

When you’re working at ultra-high magnifications in order to capture an insect, a flower, or some other tiny object in sharp focus, the depth of field will often be so tiny, and each movement of the focus ring so significant, that you struggle to capture your series of images for stacking.

Fortunately, there is a solution: a focusing rail. This handy tool attaches to your tripod and supports your camera, allowing you to make incremental adjustments in the focus position. Instead of manually adjusting the focus ring at ultra-high magnifications, you can set the focus on the front of your subject, take a shot, and then use the focusing rail to make subtle and precise adjustments to the focus point for subsequent shots.

By using a focusing rail, you eliminate the need for delicate manual adjustments, making the process of capturing a series of images for stacking much more manageable. It provides you with the control and precision needed to achieve optimal focus throughout the subject, ensuring each image in the stack contributes to a final result with exceptional detail and clarity.

While a focusing rail is not a mandatory tool for macro stacking, it significantly simplifies the process and improves the quality of your stacked images. So if you plan to do frequent close-up photography with stacking, purchasing a focusing rail can make a huge difference!

Focus stacking in photography: final words

Now that you know what focus stacking is and how it works, you’re ready to achieve great results with nothing more than a camera, a tripod, and a bit of Photoshop wizardry.

So go out there, unleash your creativity, and experiment with focus stacking. Capture the delicate petals of a flower, the rugged textures of a landscape, or the mesmerizing details of a macro subject. Do some stacking, and watch as you produce a stunningly sharp photo!

Now over to you:

What do you plan to focus stack? Have you tried focus stacking before? Share your thoughts (and focus-stacked images!) in the comments below.

The post Focus Stacking: The Ultimate Guide (With Step-By-Step Instructions) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.



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