[Photography] An Essential Guide to Night Portrait Photography

The post An Essential Guide to Night Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean McCormack.

Night portraits offer a mystical blend of shadow and artificial light. When done well, the results can be enchanting – even breathtaking.

That said, night portrait photography doesn’t come without challenges. Focusing in the darkness can be a struggle, and achieving sharp, well-exposed images can feel impossible. As a result, many portraitists give up before they really get started.

Fortunately, capturing gorgeous portraits in the darkness is possible. And as long as you’re equipped with the right techniques, it can be surprisingly simple. I love shooting portraits at night, and in this article, I share my best advice, including:

• The best settings for beautiful results
• How to use artificial light and natural light for outstanding effects
• Any easy way to capture gorgeous nighttime backgrounds
• Much more!

Ready to become a night portrait master? Then let’s dive right in!

Night portrait photography settings

When tackling night portraiture, you’ll need to tweak your camera settings to balance the limited lighting with a need for beautiful image quality. Here’s the approach I recommend:

The best camera mode for night portraits

Auto mode is easy to use – you can simply set it and forget it – but it’s terrible for night portrait photography.

If you use your camera in Auto mode, you’ll generally end up with one of two results:

1. You’ll get a blurry, unusable image
2. Your subject will be heavily flashed and the background will turn black

This is the type of result you’ll get if you combine Auto mode with your camera’s flash. The subject is brightly lit, but the background is unpleasantly dark.

In my experience, neither of the above outcomes is ideal, which is why it’s essential to move away from Auto mode as soon as you can.

What mode should you use instead?

One option is your camera’s Night Scene mode, which will fire your flash while also selecting a longer shutter speed. This can net you some nice shots, but it won’t give you control over your settings.

A camera with its Night Scene mode selected.

Therefore, a better option is either Manual mode or Aperture Priority mode. Both Manual and Aperture Priority let you change your camera settings at will. In Aperture Priority, you select the aperture and the ISO, while your camera selects a shutter speed for a balanced exposure. In Manual mode, you select the aperture, the ISO, and the shutter speed, while your camera selects nothing (in other words, you have total control!).

If you’ve never tried Aperture Priority, then I’d suggest starting there. You can use it to familiarize yourself with the different exposure settings. Then, as you gain confidence, you can switch over to Manual and see what you think.

The best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for night portraits

Once you’ve chosen the perfect camera mode, it’s time to pick your main exposure settings: the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO.

Note that these three settings together produce the exposure – i.e., overall brightness – of the photo. One goal to keep in mind when picking your settings, therefore, is to create an image with plenty of detail in the shadows, highlights, and midtones.

However, the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO also affect other aspects of each image. The aperture adjusts the depth of field of the scene, the shutter speed determines scene sharpness, and the ISO influences the overall image quality.

Therefore, you need to choose each setting carefully. Here are my recommendations:

• Pick your aperture first based on your depth of field requirements. If you want an artistic shallow depth of field effect, then choose a wide aperture, such as f/2.8. If you want a sharper background, go for a narrower aperture, such as f/8.
• Next, choose the slowest shutter speed that’ll get you consistently sharp shots. If your subject is stationary, you might choose 1/160s. If your subject is moving, you might go for 1/500s or higher.
• Finally, dial in your camera’s native ISO value (generally ISO 100) for the highest-quality photos.

Once you’ve chosen your ideal settings, frame your subject and check the exposure meter. If your image is underexposed, then you’ll need to either increase your ISO or widen your aperture further. Personally, I’m a fan of shallow depth of field portraits, so I don’t mind widening the aperture as far as it’ll go – but if you’re set on a sharp background, then go ahead and boost the ISO until you have a good exposure.

If your image is overexposed, then simply boost the shutter speed until the exposure meter is balanced.

Night portrait photography lighting

Without some form of artificial lighting, you’ll struggle to capture detailed images of your portrait subjects. The shots will turn out either wildly underexposed or very blurry, neither of which is ideal.

Note that your artificial lighting need not be a flash. It can be a streetlight, a neon sign, a phone flashlight – anything that lights up your subject and provides a bit of illumination for your camera to use. Of course, the light needs to be accessible; if you plan to use streetlights for your next photoshoot, for instance, make sure there are some nearby and on public land!

That said, I do recommend carrying an off-camera flash for nighttime portraits. This will give you the most flexibility – you can adjust the brightness and the direction – and you can use it to produce beautiful effects.

I’d also recommend buying a light stand, which you can use to mount your flash. (Alternatively, you can bring an assistant, who can hold the flash and aim it as needed.) You might even consider purchasing a modifier, which will soften the light for a more flattering effect.

Tips for breathtaking night portrait photography

If you’re looking to get pro-level night portraits – the kind that are moody and powerful and oh-so-compelling all at the same time – then you’ll want to rely on a few handy tricks of the trade. In this section, I offer plenty of techniques to get you started.

1. Use a camera or lens with image stabilization

Shooting in low light often means dealing with slower shutter speeds – and when the shutter is slow, even a slight shake of the hand can result in a blurry shot. This is where image stabilization comes to the rescue. It’s designed to counteract small movements caused by camera shake as well as the vibrations from pressing the shutter button.

The benefit of image stabilization in night portraiture can’t be overstated. It can truly be the difference between a sharp shot and a blurry one, especially if your subject is stationary. Many lenses come with this feature, and manufacturers give it a variety of names, so keep an eye out for terms like “VR,” “IS,” “OIS,” or “OS” when choosing a lens.

Also, if you’re considering a new camera, some mirrorless models do offer built-in image stabilization. However, these cameras tend to be quite expensive, so it’s always good to keep lens image stabilization in mind.

2. Don’t be afraid to use a tripod and flash

If you photograph portraits with a flash, the subject will turn out nice and bright – but the background will be unaffected (and will therefore remain dark).

So you have three options:

1. You can embrace the black-background effect.
2. You can boost your ISO until the background looks decently bright.
3. You can mount your camera on a tripod, then capture a long exposure with a burst from your flash.

A black background can look nice, especially if you’re after a moodier image (see the example below). And a high ISO will get you a good exposure (at the cost of reduced image quality).

Using a flash and a fast shutter speed will keep the subject well exposed but will darken the background.

But the long-exposure technique can produce great images, too, so I recommend you learn how it works.

First, make sure you have a sturdy tripod. I’d also encourage you to grab a remote release, which will let you trigger your camera without pressing the shutter button.

Set up your image, then choose your exposure settings based on the background, not the subject. To prevent your subject from turning too bright, dial in a shutter speed that’ll keep the background subtly underexposed. Note that your shutter speed should be reasonably long (generally 1/30s or below) in order to bring out detail in the background areas.

Finally, fire the shutter and the flash. The idea is that the flash will freeze your subject, while the lengthy shutter speed will give the camera enough time to record light from the background. You’ll get a beautiful result, one with a detailed (if slightly underexposed) background:

This image looks just like the one displayed above – except that I used a longer exposure (1/30s) to bring out detail in the background.

If your first shots don’t turn out great, that’s okay! Nailing flash brightness can take some tweaking. If your subject is too bright but you like the background exposure, then try dropping the flash brightness or taking a few steps back from your subject. Alternatively, if your subject is too dark, increase the flash brightness or get closer to the subject.

3. Pay attention to the background

When doing night portrait photography, it’s easy to forget about the background. After all, it’s often too dark to see, plus your subject is what’s really important, right?

Not quite.

First of all, even in situations where you let the background fade to black, the final image will likely include some background elements, such as car lights, street lights, or lit-up signs.

And if you use the technique I shared in the previous tip, then the background will be clearly visible in the final photo, even if it’s tough to see through your camera viewfinder.

In truth, the background is an essential part of every portrait photo, whether you shoot at night or in bright daylight. A good background emphasizes and complements the main subject, while a bad background distracts the viewer and prevents them from fully appreciating the subject.

So if you want great shots, you’ve got to get the background right.

When preparing for a photoshoot, I’d recommend scouting around for potential backdrops. Search for lots of streetlights – which look stunning when combined with a wide aperture, as I discuss below – as well as simple walls that’ll help your subject stand out.

And then, when you’re out shooting, always pay careful attention to the area behind your subject. Make sure that it doesn’t distract the viewer. And don’t be afraid to test out different backgrounds by changing your camera angle!

Here, I used a wide aperture to achieve a nice, bokeh-filled background.

4. Seek out spots of light for exceptional backgrounds

My previous night portraits tip was all about enhancing the background. This tip continues in the same vein – but with a focus on one of the most effective ways to create stunning backdrops that complement your subject.

You see, the night is filled with pockets of light that can bring magic to your portraits. Neon signs glowing in a distant alley, streetlights shimmering on a rain-soaked pavement, or festive decorations twinkling in a park – all these sources of artificial light can look amazing, especially when used to produce gorgeous bokeh.

Here’s what you do: Position your subject so that pinpricks of light are visible in the background, and use a wide aperture to create a shallow depth of field effect. Focus on your subject, then watch as those distant points of light turn into beautiful, soft orbs.

(Pro tip: Focusing can be more challenging at night, so don’t hesitate to use manual focus or a single-point AF mode to nail the shot.)

Work with angles and distances to find that perfect composition. Moving closer to your subject will generally increase the presence of the bokeh, while moving away from your subject will minimize it. Give yourself some room to experiment, too. The most obvious shot isn’t always the best!

5. Start out with continuous lighting

I know I’ve talked a lot about using flash for beautiful night photos, but while flash is very versatile, portable, and powerful, it can be a difficult light source for beginners to handle. You can’t see the effect of the flash until after an image is taken, which means that you’ll spend a lot of time guessing, checking, and adjusting your lights. Plus, getting the exposure right when using flash can be a struggle; you’ll often need to spend long minutes shifting the flash brightness up and down until you get a result you like.

Fortunately, there is another option: Continuous lights. These will constantly light your subject and therefore allow you to monitor their effects in real-time.

You can grab portable continuous lights for a reasonable price, and while they aren’t as powerful as flash, they work great for nighttime portraits. Plus, continuous lights often offer color temperature adjustments, which let you match the light color to surrounding light sources for a more natural effect.

Now, for the best results, you’ll probably need to boost your ISO and/or widen your aperture. I’d suggest setting your exposure based on the background, then ask your subject to step into the frame and make adjustments as required.

For the image below, I used an LED panel. It produced warm, soft light that looked amazing:

Pro tip: If your continuous lights don’t feature a brightness control, simply move the lights closer or farther from your subject!

6. Try shooting in black and white

The colors of the night can indeed look stunning, but have you considered the emotive power of black and white? Stripping away color brings out the textures, contrasts, and shadows in a way that can create a moodier and even grittier effect.

High ISO settings – which are sometimes necessary for night portrait photography – often lead to noisy images. While this can be a drawback when shooting in color, noise tends to look much better in monochrome. It can add an appealing grain and texture, reminiscent of traditional film photography.

Bottom line: Exploring contrasts and shadows with a black-and-white palette can lead to dramatic and visually engaging results.

Also, I highly recommend working in RAW. That way, you’ll have the flexibility to convert your image to black and white during post-processing, and you’ll have plenty of latitude when testing out various monochrome effects so you can find the look that best suits your creative vision.

7. Consider styling your subject

When you’re just starting out as a night portrait photographer, you’ll likely photograph your subjects as they are.

However, as you become more experienced, you may want to get someone to do their hair and makeup. You might even purchase stylish clothes for your subjects to make the shots look even better.

Even if you just use friends as models, it’s a good idea to ensure they look professional – so guide them in picking out clothing from their wardrobe.

Of course, you’ll want to keep in mind the purpose of your night portraits. If you’re shooting fine-art images, then it’s okay to push drama and unorthodox clothing choices. However, if your goal is to capture nice portraits for your subject to hang on their wall, you may want to tone down the styling. Make sense?

8. Add color grading to your images

Color grading is an artistic touch that can make your night portraits truly stand out. It refers to the deliberate process of adding hues to your images during post-processing in order to create a specific mood or style. Night images, in particular, look fantastic with color grading applied.

I encourage you to spend time experimenting with different colors in your favorite post-processing program. The most popular editors for color grading generally offer color wheels, so you can select your preferred hues with precision.

One classic combination that rarely fails is adding blue into the shadows and orange into the highlights; it creates a warm and cool contrast that can be visually stunning. Don’t hesitate to try out different color combinations, though. The experimentation phase can lead to beautiful and unexpected results.

9. Try adding props

Props can add depth, context, and a spark of creativity to your night portraits. Selecting the right props is crucial, however, especially when working in low light.

Go with items that fit that moody nighttime vibe. Reflective objects or those that generate their own light can produce fascinating effects. Large glasses are especially popular in night portrait circles and can catch ambient light in intriguing ways.

Fairy lights are another fantastic option; you can have your subject hold them or drape them around your subject to add a soft glow to the image.

But make sure to balance your props with the overall theme and mood of the photograph. Avoid props that might feel out of place, like a sunflower, and focus on those that enhance the night ambiance. With the right choice of props and a bit of creativity, you can transform an ordinary night portrait into something truly memorable.

10. Use reflective surfaces

Reflective surfaces have a unique way of enhancing night portraits. They provide intrigue and add another layer of creativity to your shots. If you can find and include some nice reflective elements in your composition, you can easily transform a good photograph into a great one.

You’ll likely come across plenty of reflective surfaces photographing in urban areas. Windows of cars, shiny metallic railings, and even puddles of water on the street can work great. These reflections can feature neon signs or other colorful lights and produce mesmerizing effects in your night portraits.

Positioning your subject and your camera to maximize these reflections is essential. Experiment with different angles and surfaces; see if you can find a look that really complements the subject. Sometimes, a subtle reflection can add just the right touch of sophistication, but other times, a bold, mirrored image can make a powerful statement.

Also, the more creative you can get with your reflections, the better! Keep an eye out for those unexpected reflections that might showcase the glimmer of a streetlamp or the sparkle of traffic lights. And if you’re not sure whether an idea might work, test it!

11. Capture beautiful environmental portraits

Close-up portraits are undoubtedly striking. But have you thought about environmental portraits? A single subject surrounded by the weight of darkness, illuminated by gentle light, can be breathtaking. In such a case, the extra space around the subject provides context, tells a story, and adds an extra layer of meaning to your image.

A wide-angle lens or even taking a few steps back can be all it takes to capture a more encompassing frame. Finding an area without a distracting background is key. Look for spaces that allow your subject to stand out, with minimal interference from unwanted elements.

Pro tip: Incorporating negative space in your composition can lead to a minimalistic yet powerful image. Play around with the environment, and don’t be afraid to include background elements that enhance the subject or improve the story. The night offers a dramatic and mysterious backdrop; it’s up to you to harness it in your photography.

Night portrait photography: final words

Night portraits might not be easy, but they are within your reach. With practice, patience, and the application of the techniques I’ve explored, you’ll find yourself capturing creative images that resonate with viewers. It’s all about stepping out of your comfort zone, experimenting with what the night has to offer, and letting your creativity flow.

So set up a photoshoot. Scout out locations. And have plenty of fun!

What night portraits do you plan to capture? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

• GENERAL
  • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
  • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
  • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
  • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
  • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
  • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
  • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
  • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
  • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
  • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
  • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
• PREPARATION
  • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
  • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
  • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
  • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
  • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
  • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
  • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
  • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
  • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
  • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
• SETTINGS
  • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
  • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
  • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
  • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
  • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
  • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
  • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
  • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
  • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
  • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
• LIGHTING
  • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
  • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
  • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
  • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
  • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
  • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
  • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
  • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits

    • Night portrait photography settings
    • The best camera mode for night portraits
    • The best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for night portraits
    • Night portrait photography lighting
    • Tips for breathtaking night portrait photography
    • 1. Use a camera or lens with image stabilization
    • 2. Don’t be afraid to use a tripod and flash
    • 3. Pay attention to the background
    • 4. Seek out spots of light for exceptional backgrounds
    • 5. Start out with continuous lighting
    • 6. Try shooting in black and white
    • 7. Consider styling your subject
    • 8. Add color grading to your images
    • 9. Try adding props
    • 10. Use reflective surfaces
    • 11. Capture beautiful environmental portraits
    • Night portrait photography: final words
    • Night portrait photography settings
    • The best camera mode for night portraits
    • The best aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for night portraits
    • Night portrait photography lighting
    • Tips for breathtaking night portrait photography
    • 1. Use a camera or lens with image stabilization
    • 2. Don’t be afraid to use a tripod and flash
    • 3. Pay attention to the background
    • 4. Seek out spots of light for exceptional backgrounds
    • 5. Start out with continuous lighting
    • 6. Try shooting in black and white
    • 7. Consider styling your subject
    • 8. Add color grading to your images
    • 9. Try adding props
    • 10. Use reflective surfaces
    • 11. Capture beautiful environmental portraits
    • Night portrait photography: final words
  • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
  • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
  • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
  • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
  • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
  • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
  • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
  • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
  • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
  • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
  • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
  • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
  • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
  • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
  • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
  • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
  • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
  • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
  • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
  • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
  • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
  • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
  • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
  • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
  • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
  • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
  • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
  • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
  • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
  • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
  • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
  • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
  • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
  • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
  • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
  • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
  • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
  • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
  • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
  • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
  • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
  • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
  • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
  • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
  • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
  • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
  • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
  • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
  • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
  • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
  • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
  • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
  • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
  • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
  • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography [video]
  • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather [video]
  • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
  • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
• POSING
  • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
  • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
  • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
  • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
  • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
  • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
  • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
  • How to Pose People for Headshots
  • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
  • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
  • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
  • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
  • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
  • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
  • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
  • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
  • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
  • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
  • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
  • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
  • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
  • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
  • Tips for Posing Men
• COMPOSITION
  • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
  • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
  • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
  • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
  • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
  • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
  • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
  • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
  • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
  • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
• GEAR
  • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
  • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
  • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
  • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
  • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
  • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
  • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
  • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out
  • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
  • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
  • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
  • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
  • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
  • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
  • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
  • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits
  • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
  • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
  • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
  • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
  • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
  • Self Portrait Photography Tips
  • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
  • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
  • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
  • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
  • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
  • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
  • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
  • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
  • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
  • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
  • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
  • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
  • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
  • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
  • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
  • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
  • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
  • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
  • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
  • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
  • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
  • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
  • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
  • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
  • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
  • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
  • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
  • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
  • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
  • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
  • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
  • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
  • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
  • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
  • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
  • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
  • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
  • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
  • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
  • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
  • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
  • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
  • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
  • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
  • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
  • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
  • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
  • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
  • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $10
  • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits [video]
  • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
  • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
  • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
• POST-PROCESSING
  • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
  • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
  • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
  • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
  • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
  • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
  • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
  • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
  • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
  • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
  • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
  • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
  • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
  • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
  • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
  • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
  • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
  • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
  • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
  • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
  • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
  • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
  • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
  • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
  • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
  • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
  • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
  • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
  • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
• BUSINESS
  • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
  • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
• INSPIRATION
  • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
  • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
  • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
  • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
  • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
  • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
  • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
  • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
  • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
  • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
  • 21 Spooky Portraits
  • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
  • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
  • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
  • Triptych Portrait Series
  • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
  • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
  • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
  • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
• RESOURCES
  • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
  • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
  • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
  • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
  • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
  • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

The post An Essential Guide to Night Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean McCormack.

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[Photography] dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – Birds in Flight

The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – Birds in Flight appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

This week’s photography challenge is all about capturing birds in flight. Whether you’re near a park, a beach, or your backyard, the dynamic nature of birds in motion offers a thrilling subject to photograph. The challenge here is to freeze these fleeting moments with sharp detail, capturing the grace of a bird mid-flight, or use slower shutter speeds for creative motion blur.

Make sure you include the hashtags #dPSWeeklyChallenge and #dPSBirdsInFlight in your post, here in the comments or over on social media. You can tag us on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter!

To succeed, you’ll need to master your camera’s settings. Fast shutter speeds (1/1000s or faster) are key for freezing motion, while a wider aperture will help with focusing on your subject and blurring the background. Additionally, using burst mode will increase your chances of getting that perfect shot, as birds can be unpredictable in their movements.

Think creatively with your compositions! Try framing birds against vibrant skies, or with interesting landscapes in the background. Experiment with different angles and perspectives to convey not only the bird’s movement but the environment they’re part of. Share your best shot with the community and challenge yourself to learn from others’ work.

Make sure you include the hashtags #dPSWeeklyChallenge and #dPSBirdsInFlight in your post, here in the comments or over on social media. You can tag us on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter!

Find all of our previous weekly challenges here.

Simply upload your shot into the comment field (look for the little camera icon in the Disqus comments section) and they’ll get embedded for us all to see or if you’d prefer, upload them to your favourite photo-sharing site and leave the link to them. Show me your best images in this week’s challenge. Sometimes it takes a while for an image to appear so be patient and try not to post the same image twice.

Share in the dPS Facebook Group

You can also share your images in the dPS Facebook group as the challenge is posted there each week as well.

The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – Birds in Flight appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] 6 Tips for Epic Low-Light Photos Without a Tripod

The post 6 Tips for Epic Low-Light Photos Without a Tripod appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

Tripods are fantastic, no doubt about it. When it comes to capturing those perfect low-light shots, they can make all the difference. But let’s face it: They’re not always practical. Some venues won’t allow them, plus they can be slow and cumbersome to use, especially when you’re on the go and need to move around quickly.

That’s where these tips come in. Below, I share six surefire ways to help you capture stunning low-light photos without a tripod. Whether you’re at a dimly lit concert or exploring the streets at night, these tips are bound to help you out.

So buckle up and get ready to take your handheld photography skills to the next level!

1. Raise the ISO

When it comes to shooting handheld in low light, the first trick you should try is cranking up the ISO setting on your camera. ISO measures the sensitivity of your camera’s sensor to light. By increasing the ISO, you can make the sensor more light-sensitive, which means you can capture plenty of detail in darker conditions even if you use a fast shutter speed.

The rule of thumb is simple: the darker the scene, the higher the ISO you’ll need (assuming you don’t want to slow down your shutter speed). But don’t just max out your ISO to 25,600! Be aware that raising the ISO too high can make your photos look grainy and soft, so it’s crucial to find the right balance between ISO, shutter speed, and depth of field to capture the perfect shot.

So while you should increase your ISO as needed, always try to keep it as low as possible. Only bump up the ISO when it’s absolutely necessary, and don’t push it any further than you need to.

One more thing: Not all cameras handle high ISO settings equally well. The latest full-frame models perform much better than older APS-C units, so it’s worth experimenting with your camera at different ISO settings to see what works best for your particular unit.

Working at ISO 4000 was the only way I could capture a photo in this dark tunnel.

2. Use Live View mode

Have you ever taken a picture with your camera on a tripod only to find that the photo came out slightly blurry? It’s a common problem, especially for beginners. The cause is simple, and so is the solution.

When you press the button to take a photo, the camera’s mirror flips up and can cause a slight movement, resulting in a shaky and blurred image. This is where Live View mode comes in handy. Live View allows you to see a live picture on your camera display while the mirror stays flipped up, so you can avoid any unnecessary camera movement. Some cameras also let you lock the mirror without using Live View mode so you can still use the viewfinder.

By using Live View, you can take sharp and clear handheld photos with ease without having to worry about camera shake ruining your shots. So remember to switch to Live View mode whenever you’re taking photos handheld; that way, you can capture stunning images in any lighting condition.

3. Use high-speed burst mode

One of the coolest features of modern DSLR and mirrorless cameras is their high-speed burst mode. Burst mode is a secret weapon for capturing great photos in low light. When you’re shooting handheld, using high-speed burst mode can be a lifesaver. But there’s a trick to it: you need to use it when your shutter speed is just below the limit of what you can hold steady.

Here’s an example. Let’s say you can usually take a sharp photo at 1/60s. With high-speed burst mode, you might be able to get away with using 1/45s or even 1/30s. That’s because when you shoot in burst mode, vibrations from pressing the shutter button will have died down by the time your camera snaps the later photos. So even if some of the photos are blurry, you’ll often find one or two that are sharp and usable.

Just make sure you’re using high-speed burst mode and not low-speed burst mode. And aim to take a good number of photos so you have plenty of options to choose from. Of course, it’s always a good idea to practice this trick before you try it out in a real-life situation. That way, you’ll know what your threshold is and how far you can push it.

4. Find a ledge or a wall

When it comes to taking photos in low light, finding a ledge or wall to rest your camera on can be a game-changer. Not only will it help you get steady shots, but you’ll also be able to experiment with unique camera angles that you wouldn’t normally be able to achieve with a tripod.

Before you start snapping away, however, there’s one thing you need to keep in mind: you might need to adjust the angle of your camera lens to avoid capturing the ledge or wall in the foreground of your shot. You can easily do this by using anything you have with you, like a piece of cardboard or even a small rock, to prop up your lens.

And if you can’t find a ledge or wall, don’t fret! You can still get stable shots by using other surfaces like the hood of a car or the ground. With a little creativity, you can capture stunning photos even in the dimmest of lighting conditions.

To take this photo, I rested my camera on a small ledge in this old church.

5. Use your bag

As you gain more experience with photography, you’ll start to develop your own bag of tricks and techniques. And one of the handiest tricks I’ve learned is to use my trusty backpack as a makeshift tripod. All you need to do is plop your backpack on the ground and perch your camera on top. Voila! You have an instant tripod but without all the attention that a regular tripod can attract.

(Bonus tip: If you’re photographing with a smartphone, you can also use your shoe to prop up your device on the ground!)

This trick comes in handy in places like museums or galleries, where tripods may not be allowed. You can also use your backpack as a stabilizer on benches or even rest it on a tree branch (I’ve done it before, and it works like a charm).

With this simple hack, you’ll be able to capture clear, steady shots even in low-light situations – without having to lug around a heavy tripod or risk getting kicked out of a venue.

6. Train yourself

Just like anything else in life, photography is a skill that you can improve upon. And yes, this also applies to holding your camera steady in low-light conditions. So start practicing your stance and making sure you’re holding the camera securely and comfortably.

First, make sure to tuck your elbows in and press the camera to your face (unless you’re using Live View). Remember to bend your knees slightly and cup one hand around the lens. Instead of jabbing at the shutter button, try pressing it gently and timing your shot with the end of your exhale. Trust me, it may sound extreme, but it works!

Next, work on your composure and teach yourself to relax when you’re about to take each shot. With practice, you may find that you can hold the camera at slightly slower speeds than before.

Low-light photos without a tripod: final words

Taking sharp handheld photos in low light is a challenge, but it’s also an opportunity to unleash your creativity and push your skills to the limit. By applying the tips and tricks we’ve covered in this article, you’ll be able to capture stunning photos in situations where a tripod isn’t an option.

Remember, raising your ISO can be a powerful tool, but don’t go overboard or your photos will turn out noisy and unappealing. Using Live View will help you avoid camera shake, resulting in sharper photos. And don’t forget about burst mode – it can be a game-changer in low-light situations.

But the most important takeaway from this article is to experiment and practice. Take your camera out in low light and try different techniques. Play with different settings and see what works best for you. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes – they’re often the best way to learn and grow as a photographer.

So go out there and embrace the darkness. Capture the magic of low light and create images that will leave a lasting impression. And don’t forget to have fun – after all, photography is about expressing yourself and enjoying the journey.

Now over to you:

What techniques and tricks do you use to capture photos in low light without a tripod? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips for Epic Low-Light Photos Without a Tripod appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kav Dadfar.

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[Photography] How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide

The post How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Are you looking to understand how to remove glare in Photoshop? While glare does have its creative uses, when it’s just distracting from the main subject, it’ll only harm your images – and that’s where this article comes in handy.

Glare presents in many ways, so it can be removed with different techniques. Below, I’ll share the most popular methods to reduce or remove glare in Photoshop – as well as some tips to prevent it in the first place!

Let’s get started.

What is glare?

Glare is when light impairs visibility. For example, if you’re driving and the sun bounces off the metallic surface of the car in front of you so you can’t see, that’s glare.

Sometimes, glare occurs when the light reflects off a subject in the frame, such as water, glasses, or a metal object. That’s why you often encounter a glare effect when you’re photographing people wearing eyeglasses.

Other times, glare is caused by light bouncing around inside the lens. This usually happens when you photograph toward the light source (e.g., the sun). In such cases, you’ll often hear the term “lens flare” – but from a retouching perspective, it’s really all the same thing and can be fixed with some of the techniques mentioned throughout this article.

Glare on a photograph can be a single bright spot, a number of circles and shapes in different colors, or a light haze. Sometimes, glare can be used as a creative effect; other times, glare can ruin your picture.

So let’s see how to remove glare in Photoshop!

How to remove glare in Photoshop: 4 methods

Let me start with a quick clarification: Completely removing glare from a photo is very difficult. Most of the time, you can just reduce the glare, though it all depends on the amount of detail you have to work with.

Each photo will require a slightly different approach, so I recommend you learn all of these methods. Then, with each new image, you can apply different techniques or even combine them as needed.

Method 1: Adobe Camera Raw

Adobe Camera Raw is a digital darkroom where you can develop all the unprocessed data from a photograph taken in RAW format. It offers the best chance to recover glared-out detail because you still have plenty of information available from the shot.

By default, if you open a RAW file in Photoshop, ACR launches automatically. Here, you can develop the picture before moving on to Photoshop. Of course, while ACR is designed for standard post-processing, there are a couple of tools that are particularly helpful when dealing with glare.

Dehaze: Sometimes, glare presents as a glow in the overall image, like there’s a fog (haze) over the shot. Here, Dehaze is your best friend. Simply move the Dehaze slider, and watch how the contrast increases (and the glare disappears!).

Whites: In the Basic panel, you’ll find the Whites slider. It adjusts the whitest whites in your image (also known as the white point). So by working with this slider, you can darken the brightest areas of your shot to regain some of the details.

By the way, if you’re not working on a RAW file, you can still launch ACR from within Photoshop. Just go to Filters and choose Camera Raw Filter. This will give you access to the same tools as ACR, but keep in mind that your photo’s information will be reduced compared to an original RAW file.

Method 2: Adjust Shadows and Highlights

Shadows and Highlights is a tool that allows you to fix images with high contrast or restore details in overexposed and underexposed areas.

You can find this option in the menu Edit>Adjustments>Shadows/Highlights. I recommend you duplicate the background first; that way, you keep the original image intact, plus you can mask out different areas.

When you choose Shadows/Highlights, a pop-up window appears, which lets you control your adjustments. For further control, select Show More Options.

Then simply move the sliders to eliminate the glare in your image. Remember to check the Preview option to see the effects of your adjustments in real-time.

The Amount sliders control how much correction you’re applying. To remove glare, you’ll want to work on the Highlights. Of course, you’re welcome to change the Shadows as well, to decrease the contrast and make the glare less noticeable.

The Tonal Width controls the range of tones that will be affected by your adjustments. To fix glare, set a small value in the Highlights Tonal Width to restrict the changes to the brightest parts of the image.

The Radius changes the size of the area considered around each pixel when Photoshop considers whether it belongs to the highlights or the shadows.

Pro tip: If you want the adjustments to be applied to the glare and nothing else, add a Layer Mask. Then, fill it with black and paint white over the glare. That way, you’ll see the original image – but the layer with the Shadows/Highlights adjustment will be visible only on top of the glare.

Method 3: Dodge and burn

There are different techniques for dodging and burning in Photoshop. In fact, there is a Dodge and a Burn tool, but I prefer to use layers.

Here, I’ll show you a couple of ways to do this. You can use these dodging and burning methods on their own, but for my example image, I use both for a better result.

Dodging and burning with Curves

The goal is to darken areas where glare is present, so you’ll need to do some burning.

Add a Curves adjustment layer on top of the original photo. Pull the center of the Curve down to darken the glare. It doesn’t matter if the rest of the image becomes too dark – you’ll fix that in the next step.

When you have sufficiently dark glare, select the Curves mask, go to Edit>Fill and choose Black. That way, the Curves adjustment will be hidden. Then grab the Brush tool, with white as the foreground color, and paint over the glare. This will reveal the burning effect in select places.

Dodging and burning with Soft Light

Add a new layer on top of the original and change the blending mode to Soft Light. Now, everything you paint with white will get lighter and everything you paint with black will get darker – so paint over the glare with a black brush!

Remember: If you make adjustments and you don’t love the results, you can reduce the opacity to make the effect less evident.

Method 4: Clone and Heal

If the glare completely overexposes certain pixels, leaving you without any information at all, or if you’re having a hard time matching the colors and level of luminosity, you can try the Clone Stamp and Healing tools. These take information from surrounding areas and either blend or replace the information for each given pixel.

The Clone tool copies the information from an area that you select and pastes it on top. There’s no blending, so you need to be careful about visible borders or creating patterns.

The Healing tools grab information from a different area and blend it with the existing information. If you use the Spot Healing Brush, Photoshop gathers the information for you, though the Healing Brush allows you to choose the source point.

Usually, a combination of both tools gives you the best results, though it really depends on the situation.

How to prevent glare in your photos

Now that you’ve learned how to remove glare in Photoshop, I’d like to go back to the beginning. Because the best way to improve glare? Knowing how to avoid it right from the start.

So here are a few quick ways to prevent glare in-camera!

Use a lens hood

You can attach a hood to the front of your lens to block the light coming in from the sides. There are plenty of great options: cylindrical and petal hoods, rigid and rubber hoods with collapsible segments, and more. The specifics don’t matter much; no matter which hood type you choose, it’ll help you prevent glare in your images.

Position yourself in the shade

If you don’t have a lens hood, consider adjusting your position so you can shoot from the shade. If the glare is coming from a reflection of an object in the scene, this won’t help you. However, it will prevent light from coming into the lens from an angle.

Change your angle of view

Don’t be afraid to move your camera from side to side or even up or down. Try different positions that won’t majorly affect the framing of your shot but will change the angle at which the light is hitting your lens. This usually helps to prevent glare!

Use a polarizing filter

A circular polarizing filter helps reduce or remove glare. Just attach it to the lens and turn it until you see the glare disappear. Keep in mind that you will need to adjust the camera settings to let in more light.

How to remove glare in Photoshop: final words

Learning how to remove glare is a useful skill – after all, even if you’re highly vigilant, it tends to find a way into your photos!

So I hope this article was helpful, and that you can now confidently deal with glare in your own images.

Now over to you:

Which of these glare-removal methods do you plan to try? Do you have any tips of your own? Share them in the comments below!

The post How to Remove Glare in Photoshop: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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[Photography] Minimalist Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Tips)

The post Minimalist Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

What is minimalist photography, and how can you capture stunning minimalist photos?

Minimalism is a popular artistic technique, and it’s a great way to spice up your images. (It’s also a good way to generate lots of attention on social media.) But beginners often struggle to get to grips with minimalism, which is where this article comes in handy.

Below, I offer a deep dive into minimalism. I share:

• What minimalism photography actually is
• Key components of minimalist images
• A handful of easy tricks and tips you can use to improve your own minimalist shots

So if you’re ready to become a minimalism expert, then let’s dive right in, starting with the basics:

What is minimalist photography?

Minimalist photography, also known as minimalism photography, is a type of image-making that relies on simplistic compositions, heavy use of empty space, and elimination of clutter.

Thanks to their simplicity, minimalistic photos often have a characteristically meditative effect:

Note that minimalist photos generally feature some form of main subject (e.g., the boat in the image above). But subject presence is kept to a minimum; here, minimalist photographers often zoom out for a small-in-the-frame subject surrounded by empty space.

Some photographers are pure minimalists, choosing to capture images that are as simple as possible (e.g., a single tree surrounded by white snow). But other photographers incorporate minimalistic elements into their work alongside non-minimalistic elements. Either approach is fine – just do what feels right!

Key elements of minimalist photography

Minimalism can be applied to pretty much every genre of photography, including portrait, landscape, still life, architecture, and even street shooting. But minimalist photos do have a few key characteristics:

• Negative space. Minimalist photos tend to feature lots of empty, or negative, space. Negative space is composed of expanses of pure color or texture, such as a broad stretch of ocean or a grassy lawn. (And featureless white skies are a minimalist staple!)
• A small main subject. Minimalist compositions keep the subject small in the frame so that they’re dwarfed by negative space. As I discuss below, this can be done with a wide-angle lens or by shooting from a distance. In cases where the main subject isn’t small in the frame, it should be exceptionally simple (e.g., a few streaks of paint on a wall).
• Limited clutter. Minimalism emphasizes simplicity, and minimalist photos tend to feature a main subject, lots of empty space, and nothing else. Minimalist photographers carefully refine their compositions until no extra elements – such as poles or telephone lines in the background – exist. The more clutter you can eliminate from your shots, the more minimalist they’ll be.

If you like, you can look at the above list as a recipe for minimalist photos. As long as you include all three items, you’ll end up with a decent minimalist shot – and as you become more familiar with minimalist compositions, your results will become more and more powerful.

Note the hallmarks of minimalism: A relatively featureless background, a small-in-the-frame subject, and lots of negative space.

How to capture minimalist photos: 4 simple tips

Now that you know what minimalism is about, and you know the basic characteristics of all minimalist photos, I’d like to share a few tips to enhance your shots.

1. Pay attention to the background and the location

Minimalist photos rely on simplistic backgrounds full of negative space. Choose your background carefully, and you’ll be ready to capture plenty of great minimalist shots.

My advice: As soon as you arrive on location, start by looking around for stretches of negative space. On a beach, for instance, you might notice the sky, the ocean, the sand, and large cliffs or rocks.

Then you can try to locate subjects that are surrounded by these wide areas of negative space, such as a gull in the sky, a sailboat on the water, a bird nesting along a cliff face, and so on.

If you’re serious about minimalism photography, you can take this a step further:

You can deliberately select your outing locations based on their minimalist potential. Here are just a few locations that offer lots of minimalist opportunities:

• Beaches
• Deserts
• Tundra
• Industrial areas (with lots of empty walls)
• Farmland

Alternatively, if you like to do product or studio photos, simply place your subject in a lightbox or against a white background. Be sure the background is well lit, then take high-key shots to your heart’s content!

2. Choose your lens with care

You can use any type of lens for minimalistic photos, but certain lenses will suit specific environments, so whatever else you do, make sure you’re picking your lens carefully.

Minimalism often uses small-in-the-frame compositions, which requires one of two things:

• A wide field of view
• Plenty of distance between yourself and your subject

You can achieve a wide field of view with a wide-angle lens, and you can shoot minimalistic shots from a distance using a telephoto lens, but the two approaches are not interchangeable.

For one, certain environments aren’t amenable to telephoto photography. If you’re shooting in a city with narrow alleys, a 200mm focal length will be far too tight to get a nice small-in-the-frame effect, and a wide-angle lens will be the better choice.

On the other hand, wide-angle lenses aren’t always practical. What if you want to capture minimalist shots of distant mountains against stormy skies? Unless you’re prepared to do a lot of hiking, you’ll want a telephoto lens on hand.

So before you head out, think about the subjects you’ll be shooting and where you’ll be working. Ask yourself: Is a wide-angle lens practical? Is a telephoto lens too long?

(And when in doubt, take both!)

3. Change your angle

As you learned in a previous section, a big part of minimalism involves removing clutter from your photos.

Unfortunately, it isn’t always easy. Sure, portrait photographers can ask their subjects to move or even add a plain backdrop, but street photographers, landscape photographers, and architectural photographers rarely have such a luxury.

So unless you’re constantly in situations where you retain complete control over the scene, you’ll need to develop strategies to remove distracting elements from your photos.

My favorite strategy? A simple angle change!

You see, by adjusting your angle, you can quickly eliminate street signs, passersby, telephone lines, and so much more from your photos. I like to crouch down low so my subjects are framed against the sky (after all, the sky is pretty much always a great source of negative space!). You can also try stepping to the side or even getting up high.

If you find a subject you like and you almost have a minimalist photo, don’t fret. Take some time to slow down and try different angles; I bet that, after a bit of trial and error, you’ll find an alternative that makes the shot work.

Of course, if you find a truly outstanding shot but it’s ruined by a single element or two – such as a person standing behind your subject – you can always remove the problem in post-processing. Speaking of which:

4. Simplify in post-processing when necessary

It’s best to get your compositions right from the start.

That said…

There are times when creating a minimalist composition in camera is impossible, yet you really want to capture the photo. For instance, you might be faced by a stunning silhouette before a setting sun, yet you notice a lamppost that’s positioned just beside your subject.

In such cases, I recommend you take the shot (be sure to compose as if the intrusive object isn’t present). Then, in a program such as Photoshop or Lightroom, you can use a Healing Brush or Clone Stamp tool to remove the offending item. Assuming that your main subject doesn’t get in the way, you can generally get rid of a distracting object in a few seconds.

Even if you’re faced with multiple distracting objects, post-processing software can be a major help. Just don’t get in the habit of thinking “I can remove that later” every time you’re photographing a scene; otherwise, you’ll become lazy and your photographic development will stall!

Plus, while post-processing is great, it’s not always possible to remove every distraction with a bit of brushwork, so it’s best to do what you can while out shooting, and only rely on software when absolutely necessary.

Minimalist photography: final words

A lot of beautiful photos use minimalism to great effect. And now that you’ve finished this article, you can do the same!

So remember what I’ve said about minimalism. Head outside (or into your studio) and take some shots! Now over to you:

What type of subjects do you plan to photograph? What strategies do you plan to use to create minimalist, simplistic photography? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Minimalist Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Bond.

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