[Photography] 11 Tips for Breathtaking Soccer Photography

The post 11 Tips for Breathtaking Soccer Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Daniel.

Master soccer photography with these expert tips. Choose the right gear, perfect your settings, capture key moments, and more!

Soccer (called “football” in much of the world) can be a tough sport to photograph. The ball is constantly moving around the field, and key moments appear and disappear in the blink of an eye. Unless you know the right techniques, you’re bound to struggle when the action heats up, leading to missed opportunities and failed shots.

Fortunately, you’re in good hands! I’ve spent years doing professional soccer photography, and in this article, I share my hard-earned knowledge, including:

• The best soccer photography settings
• Where to position yourself for the best photos
• How to choose the perfect gear
• Much more!

So if you’re ready to shoot soccer games like a pro, then let’s dive right in, starting with:

1. Pick the right equipment

Sports photography, perhaps more than any other photographic genre, depends on gear. For the best results, you need a fast-shooting camera and a capable lens.

The best soccer photography cameras offer top-notch autofocus systems (ideally with face and eye tracking) and powerful continuous shooting modes. The tracking algorithms will help you maintain focus on players as they sprint across the field, while the continuous shooting will let you fire off bursts of shots so you can capture the perfect moment.

Unfortunately, high-level sports cameras – like the Canon EOS R3, Sony a1, Sony a9 II, and Nikon Z9 – are very expensive, but I’d encourage you to at least invest in a full-frame camera like the Sony a7 IV or the Canon EOS R6. You might also consider an action-centric APS-C model like the Canon EOS R7 or the Nikon D500.

As for lenses:

You’ll need at least one dedicated action lens; for best results, an 18-55mm or 55-200mm kit lens just won’t be sufficient. In the former case, the players and the action will be too far away, and in the latter case, you’ll struggle to capture sharp shots in low light.

Instead, grab a 70-200mm lens to start out. If you can afford it, get an f/2.8 model, which will give you extra flexibility when working indoors or at night. Note that 200mm is long enough to shoot close and mid-distance players, but it’s always helpful to add some extra power to your gear bag, so if you can afford a 300mm or 400mm lens – or a 200-400mm zoom – you’ll be very well equipped. (Anything longer than 400mm can get a little too tight unless you want to photograph players at the other end of the field.)

If you have a decent lens but find that it isn’t quite long enough, you don’t need to rush out and buy a longer model. Try cropping, which can get you much closer to the action and can still give you highly detailed results (as long as you’re using a higher-megapixel camera). And if you’re not sure whether it’s worth buying a new lens, you can always rent some glass for a day or two.

2. Carry a monopod

Another key piece of soccer photography gear advice?

Bring a monopod. Yes, you can handhold a hefty 70-200mm f/2.8 lens, or even a 400mm monster, but why put all that strain on your arms? That’s where a monopod comes in. It’s your best friend on the soccer pitch, providing support for your gear and sparing your arms from fatigue.

So why do I rate monopods so highly? Well, they keep your arms from getting tired too quickly. They’re slim, lightweight, and easy to lug around – perfect for those sudden location changes or angle adjustments. Plus, they help reduce camera shake. This is vital when dealing with telephoto lenses, notorious for shaking-induced blur.

And let’s not forget, many soccer games take place under dim indoor lights or after sunset. Under such challenging lighting conditions, even a tiny camera shake can result in blurry photos. But a monopod? It steadies your camera like a rock, ensuring tack-sharp shots.

I guarantee you won’t break the bank on a decent monopod, and they’re a cinch to pack and carry. One final tip: take a small camp stool along. Trust me, your back will thank you, and you’ll find that low-angle shots can give your soccer photos a fresh, engaging perspective.

3. Carefully choose your soccer photography settings

I like to shoot in Manual mode; it gives me plenty of flexibility, and it lets me adjust my settings as needed to cope with changing light. If you’re not comfortable working in Manual mode, Shutter Priority mode is your best option (and it’s especially great at handling fields that feature both sun and shade).

You’ll need to pick the right shutter speed to freeze the action. I’d recommend 1/800s as the absolute minimum for advanced players (though you can drop the shutter speed down to 1/500s or so if you’re photographing younger players). Really, when it comes to photographing fast-paced movement, the higher the shutter speed, the better – so if you have the room to boost the shutter to 1/1000s, 1/2000s, or even 1/4000s, just do it.

That said, ultra-slow shutter speeds can create some fantastic – and highly artistic – images when done correctly. Working at 1/30s is a good starting point, and if you find that you capture too much blur, simply speed up the shutter by a couple of notches. Conversely, if you end up with too little blur, you may need to slow the shutter speed down.

If you’re using Shutter Priority mode, then your camera will choose the aperture for you – but you’ll control it indirectly via your shutter speed choice. And if you’re using Manual mode, you’ll need to choose your aperture directly. So what aperture is best?

For single-player shots, f/2.8 is generally ideal, as it will do a very nice job of isolating the subject. However, when photographing moments that feature more than one player (e.g., tackles), if you have enough light, then use f/4 (it’ll give you a slight depth of field increase). Of course, some lenses cannot reach f/2.8 or even f/4, and in such scenarios, just use the widest aperture you have available.

You’ll also need to choose an ISO, and I encourage you to use this to simply fill in the gaps between your aperture-shutter speed combination and the brightness you want to achieve. It’s best to keep the ISO as low as possible – the higher the ISO, the more noise you’ll get in your images – so on bright days, I often work at ISO 400. Low-light scenarios – for instance, when shooting at dusk, at night, indoors, or on a heavily overcast day – require an ISO boost, however, so ISO 800, 1600, and beyond may be required.

Spend some time testing out different ISO settings on your camera, as different models handle high ISOs differently. These days, you can often work at ISO 1600 with minimal noise, but it really depends heavily on your camera, so make sure you know how it’ll perform before you head out to shoot.

Additionally, picking the correct autofocus mode is absolutely essential to capturing sharp shots. Don’t use your camera’s AF-S (or One-Shot) mode; make sure you switch your camera to AF-C (or AI-Servo), which will continually reacquire focus as your subject moves.

And if your camera offers a good tracking mode, use it! You want to be able to follow players as effectively as possible, and if you have to constantly reselect focus points as your subjects move, you’ll miss out on too many shots.

Finally, your camera’s burst mode can be an absolute game-changer. You might know it as continuous shooting mode, but whichever name you prefer, this tool allows you to fire off a whole series of photos in just a couple of seconds.

With burst mode, you’re no longer worried about missing that split-second shot. You’re equipped to freeze heart-stopping moments that pass in the blink of an eye. One caveat, though: The more you use burst mode, the more photos you’ll end up with. That means more time spent sorting through them all, but in my view, it’s a small price to pay for the spectacular shots you can capture.

4. Get in the right position

As with any sport, if you can sit in the right place, you’ll have a much better chance of nailing key shots. I generally recommend working from a few specific places, as I detail in the diagram below:

And here’s a breakdown of each option (note that the position numbers correspond to the numbers on the map):

• Position 1: Working near the corner (slightly behind the goal line) will give you some great shots of players as they run with the ball toward you. You can also get some great shots of goals, too. This position is very versatile as you can get a good mix of everything.
• Position 2: Working halfway between both goals is a great way to shoot goals (as you can generally capture both the goalie and the goal shooter in a single frame). You’ll also be able to capture players running down the field, though if they’re running down the sides, the shots may not be as head-on.
• Position 3: For some variation, try shooting from the sideline near the corner. You’ll be able to capture some great panning shots of players with the ball as they run the length of the field. You generally won’t be able to get many great goal shots from Position 3, but you may be able to capture some great tackle photos if the action happens around midfield.

I don’t recommend you pick a spot and stay in the same place for the game; instead, sit in one location for a while, then move around half-time or so. That way, you can capture a variety of images.

Whatever you do, don’t be tempted to run around the field following the ball. You will be forever running and not photographing! It is much better to sit in one location and wait for the action to come to you.

5. Keep an eye out for key moments

The best soccer shots tend to feature some kind of action. So always be scanning for these moments, and when you see them, get your finger on that shutter button! In particular, look for:

Celebrations. These could be from the team that just scored a goal, or – after the final whistle – from the team that won the match.

Here, teammates celebrate after scoring a goal in the rain:

You can also show emotion on the faces of the losing players:

In-game action, including tackles, headers, dives, slides, goals, and goal saves. These moments occur frequently throughout the game, so keep your eyes open. It’s essential that you stay focused. And bear in mind that older players generally play with more intensity than younger players, so if you photograph more advanced leagues, you’ll have more opportunities to capture dramatic tackles. (Just remember: Older players move a lot faster, so you’ll need to crank up that shutter speed and be ready for anything!)

Here, one player is pushing the other:

Here, a player is taking a shot at the goal:

And here, a player is heading the ball. (For this type of shot, you must capture the ball close to the player’s head. If the ball is too far away, it can get lost! Also, the player’s expression is generally best when the ball has just hit their head!)

The crowd. If you’re covering a game with lots of fans, don’t forget to get some shots of them, too. They can add lots of atmosphere! Try to capture emotion; often, the fans are just as excited as the team when a goal is scored, though when the team is about to lose, they may get very quiet.

6. Know the game

Just like a coach, to excel in soccer photography, you need to know the game inside out. If you’re already a soccer fan, great! Use this passion as an excuse to watch more games, analyze player strategies, and delve deeper into the lesser-known rules. You never know when a tidbit of information might help you capture an amazing photo.

Not a soccer fan? No problem. It’s time to hit the books, tune in to commentaries, and perhaps join a local league for an immersive experience. A deep understanding of the game allows you to predict events before they happen, giving you a distinct advantage behind the lens.

Moreover, knowing the teams and players you’ll be shooting can give you that extra edge. Research their style, their strengths, their weaknesses. Pay special attention to key players, understand their unique tactics. A star player’s signature slide-tackle or header goal, if captured at the right moment, can be a truly sensational shot.

7. Don’t be afraid to start small

You might be tempted to attend a game as a fan and start snapping. However, big lenses often aren’t allowed past security, and the prime positions are generally off-limits to fans. So it’s better to tread a different path.

How about turning your lens to a local league? Even high school games can offer ample opportunities for practice. Reach out, seek permission, and get yourself into the heart of the action. The key here is consistency. Attend as many games as you can and focus on refining your skills. With every click, you’ll notice improvements.

As your collection of striking shots grows, why not let them see the light of day? Local newspapers might be interested in showcasing your work. Don’t be shy to send a couple of your best images. Give them a glimpse of what you bring to the table.

Remember, every click expands your portfolio. Keep snapping, keep sharing, and soon enough, you’ll find yourself ready to apply for professional gigs. With the right contacts and a bit of luck, you may well end up shooting in the big leagues!

8. Capture clean backgrounds

Okay, let’s talk backgrounds. Sure, the players steal the spotlight, and they should. But the setting they’re playing in can make or break your shots. A cluttered or distracting background can take the focus away from the players. Instead, a clean, uncluttered backdrop will highlight the players and lend your photo a professional touch.

Keep a keen eye on the surroundings while you’re on the field. Identify any potential disturbances in the background and try to avoid shooting against them. You’re not just watching the game; you’re seeing beyond it.

Creating a pleasant blur in the background can also make a huge difference. That blur effect, known as bokeh, helps separate the players from the background and makes any distractions less noticeable. To achieve the best bokeh, make sure you use a wide aperture. Also, photographing players when they’re closer to you – and farther from the backdrop – can enhance the blur effect.

One more piece of advice: Consider getting down low. This way, you’ll have the stadium walls and the crowd, not the turf, serving as your backdrop.

9. Capture a few wider shots

Most of the time, as a soccer photographer, you’ll find yourself drawn toward close-up action shots. It’s understandable; telephoto lenses help you get right in the thick of the game, capturing those high-energy moments in stunning detail. But there’s a place for wider shots, too.

For one, a wider lens can offer a different perspective and adds diversity to your shots. It can also frame the game in a broader context, capturing the stadium’s ambiance, the cheering crowd, or even the dramatic sky overhead during an open-air game.

So carry along a wide lens and experiment with it. Try shooting the stadium as it fills up with excited fans. Get a wide shot of the entire field during a key moment of the match. Or capture the collective emotions of the crowd – their celebrations, disappointments, and everything in between.

While these images might not pack the same intense punch as a close-up action shot, they serve a different purpose. They add layers to the story of the game, giving it depth and richness. And they add variety to your portfolio. So next time you head out to photograph a soccer match, remember to go wide every once in a while. It might just result in the shot that completes the story.

10. Edit and share your best shots

Captured some fantastic shots? Great! But don’t let your work end with the click of the shutter. Your images deserve some fine-tuning to bring out their best qualities.

Start by transferring all your shots to your favorite post-processing program. A quick scan should help you flag the promising files. Don’t overthink it, just mark the ones that catch your eye. Now, dive deeper into these flagged shots and select the ones that really stand out. Those are the photos you’ll want to edit.

Editing isn’t about transforming the shot, it’s about enhancing it. Correct the white balance, adjust exposure levels, and ensure the colors pop just right. A little boost in clarity will add that extra crispness to your images.

You can also consider adding a vignette effect to guide the viewer’s focus toward the players. But remember, subtlety is key. Your viewers should feel the effect, not see it.

Finally, select the images you’d be proud to put your name on. These are the shots that tell the story of the game. Share them with the world, be it on social media, your personal blog, or a news site. Let others experience the game through your lens!

11. Learn from the best soccer photographers

Embarking on your journey as a soccer photographer, you’re definitely not alone. You’ll find that there are countless skilled soccer photographers around the world. Many have devoted their careers to perfecting the art of capturing the beautiful game in action. So why not learn from them?

Start by exploring the work of these experienced photographers. Check out their online portfolios and social media feeds. In fact, follow them so their latest photos become part of your daily feed. It’s the perfect way to expose yourself to high-quality soccer photography on a regular basis.

Now, you’re not just browsing for the fun of it. As you scroll through these photos, engage in a bit of detective work. Try to understand what makes these images stand out. How did the photographer frame the shot? What makes it tell a story? Are they capturing high-action moments or subtle nuances of the game?

Take note of what grabs your attention. Is it the angle of the shot, the play of light, the sharp focus on the player’s emotion, or something else? Be curious and question what elements you can incorporate into your own work.

And remember, this isn’t a one-time exercise. This process should be ongoing. Regularly analyze the work of photographers you admire. Over time, you’ll not only learn new techniques, but you’ll also start to develop your unique style. You’re not trying to clone someone else’s work. Instead, let their work inspire you to push your own boundaries.

Soccer photography tips: final words

Throughout this article, we’ve explored the captivating world of soccer photography. By now, you’ve gained practical tips to enhance your skills and create compelling images that do justice to the beautiful game.

Sure, capturing that perfect shot might seem like a daunting task, especially when you’re just starting. But here’s the good news: with the insights shared in this article, you’re well on your way to snapping not just good, but outstanding soccer photographs. Remember, each tip is a tool in your arsenal. It’s all about how you use it to craft your unique style.

Now it’s time for action. Grab your camera, put these strategies to work, and dive headfirst into the electrifying field of soccer photography. You’re equipped with the knowledge you need, so go ahead and create stunning images that tell unforgettable stories of the game. Remember, practice is key. So keep shooting, keep learning, and most importantly, enjoy the journey! You’ve got this.

Now over to you:

What soccer games do you plan to photograph? What gear will you use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Sports Photography

• GENERAL
  • 8 Tips On How to Photograph Sports
  • Tips from the Sports Photography Pros to Help You Get the Money Shots
  • Indoor Sports Photography
• SETTINGS
  • How To Use Sports Mode
• LIGHTING
  • Shooting Portraits and Action Sports with Speedlites – Workshop
• GEAR
  • Lens Review Canon 300mm f4 Lens for Sports Photography
  • Aquatech CO-7 Underwater Sport Housing [REVIEW]
  • Shooting Motorsports with a Micro Four Thirds Camera
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • Tips for Photographing Football (Soccer)

    • 1. Pick the right equipment
    • 2. Carry a monopod
    • 3. Carefully choose your soccer photography settings
    • 4. Get in the right position
    • 5. Keep an eye out for key moments
    • 6. Know the game
    • 7. Don’t be afraid to start small
    • 8. Capture clean backgrounds
    • 9. Capture a few wider shots
    • 10. Edit and share your best shots
    • 11. Learn from the best soccer photographers
    • Soccer photography tips: final words
    • 1. Pick the right equipment
    • 2. Carry a monopod
    • 3. Carefully choose your soccer photography settings
    • 4. Get in the right position
    • 5. Keep an eye out for key moments
    • 6. Know the game
    • 7. Don’t be afraid to start small
    • 8. Capture clean backgrounds
    • 9. Capture a few wider shots
    • 10. Edit and share your best shots
    • 11. Learn from the best soccer photographers
    • Soccer photography tips: final words
  • How to Shoot High School Football
  • Play Ball! Covering Your Bases Shooting Baseball
  • How to Capture the Perfect Action Shot in Sports Photography
  • Low Light Sports Photography
  • 3 Tips for Taking Better Motorsport Photos
  • Catching the Action: Photographing Youth Sports
  • Top 5 Tips for Extreme Sports Photography
• POST-PROCESSING
  • Using Photoshop to Create the Illusion of Depth of Field with your Sports Photos

The post 11 Tips for Breathtaking Soccer Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Daniel.

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[Photography] Has Digital Photography Changed How We Shoot?

The post Has Digital Photography Changed How We Shoot? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

AKA How My (Has yours?) Photography Has Changed Over the Years…

I was thinking about this question recently: has my photography really changed since I first picked up a camera? I’m not going to bore you with the classic “I borrowed my mother’s Pentax and finished the roll of film” story (That’s how it happened, thanks mum). Suffice to say, I started with film and now I’m shooting digital and here we are.

Q. What about you? Has your photography changed? Drop your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to know.

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My Early Film Photography

As a kid and into my teens, I’d use whatever film I could get my hands on, usually begging Mum for a roll. Photography was slow, deliberate. Each shot counted because a roll of 24 frames could take me weeks to get through. Mum taught me to be considered in the photos I made—not to shoot without purpose.

Exposure? I barely understood it. I’d point the camera at whatever caught my eye, make sure the little needle was near the middle, and hope for the best. Even though my photos were mostly rubbish, the process of shooting, waiting, and then developing was magical.

Later, I upgraded to a Nikon F90X. The process was faster, but I was still deliberate. I’d visit the local shop on Bridge Rd in Richmond, chatting with the photographer, smelling the chemicals, and seeing prints come to life. A roll of film still took weeks, but every frame mattered.

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Enter Digital: The Mavica Era

When I got my first “corporate job,” digital cameras existed but were out of my reach. My boss, Heidi, was a photographer with two beautiful Leicas. Occasionally, she’d take photos at lunch, and I tagged along once as her (hilariously mismatched) model.

Eventually, we purchased a Sony Mavica FD92 at work. A digital camera! But tiny images, floppy disks, and very limited dynamic range made every shot a challenge. Yet, I left a work Christmas party with 50 small, flawed but very much real digital images.

Floppy disks, tiny images—yet still a thrill.

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The Transition: Film to Serious Digital

As digital tech improved, I found myself taking more photos and experimenting more. I upgraded to a used Canon A5 with a CF card. Suddenly, space was no longer an issue—even if 64MB cost a fortune at the time. I was snapping away on trips, knowing that most of the frames would be rubbish, but the process was liberating.

From there, I moved through a series of Canon cameras: 30D, 50D, 5D, 5D Mark II, then Mark III. Each upgrade brought more flexibility, more frames, and more experimentation. Eventually, I settled into the Sony ecosystem with an a7R III. It’s still my main camera today—sharp, reliable, and ready to shoot.

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How My Photography Has Changed

Looking back, I realise that having more frames, cheaper storage, and instant feedback changed how I shoot. I became less deliberate. The cost of film and limited shots used to force me to slow down, to think, to plan. Digital gave me freedom—but with it, a little recklessness.

The love for photography is still there, but the process has shifted. Now, it’s “give me more frames!” instead of “make every frame count.” And maybe that’s not a bad thing—it’s just different.

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What About You?

Has your photography evolved the same way? Are you more deliberate, or more of a “snap everything” photographer? I’d love to hear your thoughts—drop a comment and let’s compare notes.

The post Has Digital Photography Changed How We Shoot? appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] Shutter Priority Mode: The Ultimate Guide

The post Shutter Priority Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

I was thinking about this article earlier and how it applies to how we shoot these days (nothing’s changed really, shutter is shutter is shutter)…. electronic or an actual curtain whipping up dout of the way to expose your film / sensor…. but in 5 quick sentences, here’s how shutter priority can help you in your photography journey: check it out, then read the whole article! (I always suggest people grab a drink, their camera and then sit down for a read! — Simon )

Perfect control over motion – You can freeze fast action (like sports or wildlife) or create smooth motion blur (like waterfalls or light trails) by choosing the exact shutter speed.

Real-time exposure preview – Mirrorless EVFs and screens show exactly how your chosen shutter speed affects exposure before you shoot, making adjustments faster and more intuitive.

Automatic exposure balance – The camera handles aperture and ISO automatically, ensuring proper exposure while you focus solely on controlling motion effects.

Ideal for learning motion effects – It’s a great training mode for understanding how shutter speed impacts different types of movement without diving into full manual settings.

Consistent results in changing light – When light conditions shift (like clouds moving over the sun), the camera compensates with aperture or ISO so your shutter speed—and the look of motion—stays constant.

Above is a quick update to the original article by Darren – Oct 2025 (where does time go!) – Simon

What is Shutter Priority mode? And how can you use Shutter Priority for consistently outstanding results?

In this article, I take you through the ins and outs of Shutter Priority. I discuss:

• What makes Shutter Priority so special
• Common scenarios when Shutter Priority is useful 
• The difference between Shutter Priority and related camera modes (such as Aperture Priority)
• Much more!

Ready to level up your camera settings knowledge? Then let’s dive right in, starting with the basics:

What is Shutter Priority mode?

Shutter Priority is a semi-automatic camera mode that allows you to set the shutter speed and ISO, while your camera sets the aperture.

More specifically, when using Shutter Priority mode, you choose a shutter speed and ISO based on image quality considerations. Your camera will then select an aperture that’ll give you a well-exposed image.

Therefore, when using Shutter Priority, you can maintain a consistent shutter speed – which can be very, very helpful. If you’re photographing action, for instance, you may need the shutter speed to remain above a certain number; thanks to Shutter Priority, that’s easily done (and you won’t need to spend a lot of time fiddling around with camera settings, either).

The Shutter Priority exposure variables (+ exposure compensation)

As you may be aware, image exposure – that is, brightness – is controlled by three camera settings: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Widen the aperture, lengthen the shutter speed, or raise the ISO, and you end up with a brighter image. Narrow the aperture, increase the shutter speed, or lower the ISO, and you end up with a darker image.

One of the toughest technical aspects of photography is maintaining a balance between these exposure variables. That’s what semi-automatic modes like Shutter Priority are designed to do: select the right variable values for a well-exposed shot.

Unfortunately, while camera exposure calculations are generally accurate, there are times when Shutter Priority mode will produce overexposed or underexposed images. For instance, if you try to shoot a snowy landscape, your camera will try to make the snow gray; in the process, it’ll underexpose the entire shot by narrowing your aperture too far.

Your camera will try to underexpose images like this!

But most cameras offer a way to counter this problem and manually correct Shutter Priority exposures: Exposure compensation. Dial in a bit of positive exposure compensation, and your camera will deliberately widen the aperture to overexpose the shot. Dial in a bit of negative exposure compensation, and your camera will do the reverse.

That way, you can use Shutter Priority on autopilot – but if you check your LCD and notice a touch of over- or underexposure, you can make the necessary changes.

Now, aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are essential parts of the exposure process, but they each have an additional effect worth considering. 

Aperture adjusts image depth of field (i.e., the amount of the scene that’s in focus). You can use it to create artistic shallow depth of field bokeh or more conventional deep depth of field effects.

Shallow depth of field effects can look stunningly artistic.

Then there’s shutter speed, which adjusts your ability to freeze the action. The faster the shutter speed, the better chance you have at getting a sharp shot when photographing moving subjects or when handholding. Slow shutter speeds, on the other hand, are a great way to produce artistic effects by deliberately blurring moving subjects such as water:

Finally, the ISO affects image quality: The higher the ISO, the noisier the photo, so – I’m going to say this right off the bat – you should always keep the ISO as low as you can. 

The point here is that you should choose your shutter speed and ISO carefully, and you should always keep an eye on your aperture. Though you technically don’t have control over the aperture setting while in Shutter Priority mode, you can force the camera to choose a wider or narrower aperture by increasing or decreasing the shutter speed, respectively.

When should you use Shutter Priority mode?

Shutter Priority is a great choice if you:

• Are photographing moving subjects and need to make sure they turn out sharp
• Are working in rapidly changing lighting conditions

As I mentioned in the previous section, Shutter Priority will ensure you maintain a consistent shutter speed across a series of shots, which can be hugely helpful if you’re worried about coming home with blurry images. 

For instance, if you’re photographing birds in flight, you’ll often need a shutter speed of at least 1/2000s. With Shutter Priority active, you can dial in 1/2000s, pick an ISO, then let your camera choose the aperture needed for a good exposure. You won’t need to worry about monitoring the shutter speed, and while it’s always a good idea to keep an eye on your exposure variables, you can technically just trust your camera to handle the rest. (Of course, you should always check your LCD every so often to ensure you’re not getting over- or underexposed images. In such cases, exposure compensation is your friend!)

And if the light is changing, Shutter Priority becomes even more useful. The sun might go behind clouds, or your subjects might move into the shade – but your camera will maintain the same shutter speed and will adjust the aperture to balance out the exposure.

Of course, Shutter Priority mode, while handy, isn’t always the perfect choice. 

For instance, if you care deeply about the depth of field in an image, it’s generally best to use Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode; that way, you don’t rely on your camera to set the aperture. Macro, portrait, and landscape photographers often use Aperture Priority or Manual mode for this very reason.

(Aperture Priority mode lets you dial in the aperture and ISO while your camera chooses a corresponding shutter speed, while Manual mode lets you independently choose the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.)

Additionally, if the light on your subject is constant but you’re worried about underexposing or overexposing the image, it pays to use Manual mode. You can set your exposure variables, then trust that you’ll get a consistent result, even as your subject moves in front of different backgrounds.

Bottom line: 

Shutter Priority mode can be a solid choice, especially if you’re shooting action, but it’s not always perfect. Sometimes it makes sense to go with Aperture Priority or Manual mode instead!

How to use Shutter Priority mode to shoot action: step by step

To get started with Shutter Priority mode, turn your camera mode dial to the Shutter Priority icon (usually a “Tv” or an “S”).

Next, consider your subject. What shutter speed do you need to keep it sharp? Walking pedestrians generally require 1/250s or above, while 1/1000s is best for bikers and 1/2000s is good for slower birds in flight. Dial in the minimum shutter speed required for a tack-sharp shot, and set your camera to its lowest ISO value (generally ISO 100).

Point your camera at your subject (to ensure an accurate meter reading), then check the aperture. What value has your camera chosen? 

If the aperture is too narrow, then you should increase your shutter speed until you get the result you want. (Don’t increase it too much, though! Otherwise you won’t have any wiggle room if the light starts to drop.)

And if the aperture is too wide, then you should leave the shutter speed alone but increase your ISO. 

Make sense? 

Once you have a good set of exposure variables, take a test shot, then review it on your LCD. If the result is overexposed or underexposed, then dial in some exposure compensation, then take a second test shot. Check it again – and keep following the same process until you get the exposure you want.

And when you do get a good exposure, then enjoy your photoshoot!

How to use Shutter Priority mode to shoot long exposures

Shutter Priority mode is most commonly used for action photography, but you can also use it to capture long exposures with deliberate blur effects.

You’ll need to start by setting your camera to Shutter Priority mode (see above). Make sure your camera is mounted on a sturdy tripod, then dial in your camera’s lowest ISO and the shutter speed you need for your long exposure.

(What shutter speed is best? That depends on the speed of your subject and the effect you’re after. If you’re photographing fast-moving water, a shutter speed in the 1/30s to 1/10s range can work well. If you’re photographing slow-moving water, you’ll probably want to work at 1s or longer, and if you’re photographing clouds as they streak across the sky, 30s is a good choice.)

Check the aperture. In these situations, you generally want to keep your entire scene in focus, so if your camera is giving you a wide aperture – f/4, for example – then you’ll probably want to lengthen your shutter speed further. 

That said, it’s possible to have an aperture that’s too narrow (you don’t want your images to suffer from diffraction), so keep that in mind, too!

Take a test shot. If the exposure is too bright or dark, go ahead and dial in the required exposure compensation. 

Then proceed with your photos.

Shutter Priority mode: final words

Well, there you have it:

Everything you need to know about Shutter Priority mode. Now that you’ve finished this article, you can capture stunning action shots and produce beautiful long-exposure photos.

So get out your camera. Try Shutter Priority. And see what you think!

Do you plan to use Shutter Priority mode on the regular? What will you use it for? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Shutter Priority Mode: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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[Photography] Hands-on with the Freewell Locking VND/CPL Filter

The post Hands-on with the Freewell Locking VND/CPL Filter appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Here’s our hands-on with the Freewell Locking VND/CPL Filter

(I tested the set on my Sony a7R III + Tamron 16–30mm f/2.8 G2)

If you’re just starting to experiment with filters, you’ve probably already heard about ND filters (Neutral Density) and CPLs (Circular Polarisers). ND filters let you slow your shutter speed for smooth water or motion blur in bright light, while CPLs cut glare and reflections for richer skies and more saturated colour.

The new Freewell Locking 3 to 7 stop VND/CPL combines both in one sleek, clever package — and after taking it for a spin last weekend (in crazy weather!) at the Point Lonsdale Lighthouse, I came away impressed.

A Quick Look at What’s New

For me, after experimenting with a magnetic system for a couple of years, the real standout is how the locking mechanism secures the VND/CPL filter to the adapter ring (Available in 49mm, 52mm, 55mm, 58mm, 67mm, 72mm, 77mm and 82mm) which you screw to the end of your lens, all while leaving the CPL/VND easy to manipulate, but stays securely in place. With your filter clipped into position, you can easily depress the side buttons on the red ring and spin it around to adjust your polarisation position, and there are two little tabs on the black ring that adjust your VND. (It’s good practice to adjust your variable ND first and then your Circular polariser)

I had no issues with bumping the filter tabs and accidentally changing settings, etc. That mix — a positive, confidence-inspiring lock plus a tactile, easy-to-fine-tune control ring — gives you reliable, repeatable results in the field without sacrificing on-the-fly adjustments. — the sort of detail that shows Freewell’s been listening to creators. ??

The hybrid design, meaning you get the VND with a built-in CPL at the same time, That means fewer filters to juggle, less time swapping glass in the field, and no cross-polarisation weirdness. BUT you can stack extra filters, I was sent the ND32 as well as the Snow Mist 1/4 filter. When you stack the ND32 with the VND, you get upto 10 stops of ND (fun long exposures in the middle of the day!)

Small Touches That Make a Difference

One thing that genuinely surprised me was the NFC lens cap. I will admit I thought it was a bit of a gimmick at first, but when you tap your phone to it, and it takes you straight to the Freewell Hub, where you’ll find setup videos, warranty info, and filter guides — Yeah, that’s actually super handy for anyone new to filters! New hunting around for QR codes or small paper manuals – I was about to say “who doesn’t always have their lens cap with them… but I don’t want to jinx myself!) – Nice touch, Freewell!

In Use

Mounted on my Sony a7R III with Tamron’s new 16–30mm f/2.8 G2, the Freewell filter set performed beautifully. Colour rendition stayed natural thanks to Freewell’s True Color optics, with no unwanted tint or cast to my eye — even at higher ND stops. Reflections off the water and rocks at Point Lonsdale were cleanly tamed, and the added contrast in the sky was a nice bonus. I was able to shoot a 10 second exposure at 2:30pm – Quite fun!

While I didn’t get to use the Snow Mist filter on the weekend, I really should have! You can see an example below of what the filter does – pretty much exactly what it says “Snow Mist” that light dispersion is pretty sweet!

Freewell Snow Mist 1/4 ?

Who It’s For

If you’re just getting into filters, this is a smart, long-term investment. You’ll spend less time worrying about shifting stops and more time focusing on your composition. The combination of ND + CPL, the locking mechanism, and excellent optical clarity make it a standout for both photographers and filmmakers who want reliable, repeatable results.

Freewell’s Locking VND/CPL is available now through FreewellGear.com, Amazon, and selected retailers.

Freewell Provided the filter kit to us for review, we thank them for reaching out!

The post Hands-on with the Freewell Locking VND/CPL Filter appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] TAMRON Announces the Class-Leading Compact and Lightweight Telephoto Zoom 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2

The post TAMRON Announces the Class-Leading Compact and Lightweight Telephoto Zoom 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

The Tamron Trinity for Nikon Z hits the streets!

Here’s the press release!

TAMRON Announcesthe Class-Leading Compact and Lightweight Telephoto Zoom70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2with Vibration Compensation for the “Nikon Z mount system”

October 7, 2025, Commack, NY – TAMRON announces the launch of the 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2 (Model A065), a fast-aperture telephoto zoom lens for “Nikon Z mount system” full-frame mirrorless cameras on October 23, 2025. The lens will retail for $1,149 USD / $1,549 CAD.

With this announcement of the Nikon Z mount, TAMRON expands the availability of the highly acclaimed 70-180mm F2.8 VC G2, previously announced in 2023 for Sony E-mount. Additionally, the TAMRON Trinity is now complete for Nikon Z camera users! (The Holy Trinity as FroKnowsPhoto (dot com) would say!)

The 70-180mm F2.8 VC G2 is a fast-aperture telephoto zoom lens that combines TAMRON’s proprietary VC (Vibration Compensation) image stabilization mechanism with a class-leading compact size and weightdesign [1] offering both outstanding portability and greater stability across a wide variety of scenes. It delivers uncompromising image quality throughout the entire zoom range. At the wide end, the lens achieves an MOD (Minimum Object Distance) of just 11.8” (0.3m), allowing for close-up compositions that allow expressive imagery unique to this lens. For autofocus, the lens features

TAMRON’s VXD (Voice-coil eXtreme-torque Drive) linear motor focus mechanism that delivers excellent quietness and responsiveness for high-speed, high-precision auto-focusing whether shooting stills or video. Additionally, the lens supports the TAMRON Lens Utility, software that can be used to customize functions based on various shooting styles for still photography and video. The lens is designed with a focus on operability and scratch resistance. This well-balanced lens combines portability, high imaging quality, and excellent usability.

^{[1] Among full-frame compatible fast-aperture F2.8 telephoto zoom lenses equipped with Vibration Compensation (As of October 2025: TAMRON)}

? Product FeaturesWorld’s smallest and lightest F2.8 tele-zoom lens is designed to fit comfortably in your handFast F2.8 aperture performance captures the world in vivid detail from portraits to landscapesTamron’s proprietary VC image stabilization mechanism empowers mobilityDecisive moments are never missed with improved fast and precise AF tracking performance powered by TAMRON’s VXD linear autofocus mechanism MOD of 11.8” (0.3m) opens new possibilities such as tabletop photography

Compatible with TAMRON Lens Utility software (desktop and mobile app)
Comfortable ergonomic design for ease of use
Unified Ø67mm filter size
Complete G2 trinity, “daisangen”, covers 16mm to 180mm focal length range
Supports key camera functions
Protective features (moisture-resistant construction and fluorine coating)

SPECIFICATIONS

* Length is the distance from the front end of the lens to the lens mount face.** The circular diaphragm stays almost perfectly circular up to two stops down from maximum aperture.***Previously released for Sony E-mount.Specifications, appearance, functionality, etc. are subject to change without prior notice.This product is developed, manufactured, and sold under the license agreement with Nikon Corporation.

Because we’re over here in Australia, we found this video from Photography With Antonio, Via Tamron Australia… Pleasantly Surprised – Lovely! Well worth checking it out if you get the chance.

The post TAMRON Announces the Class-Leading Compact and Lightweight Telephoto Zoom 70-180mm F/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

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[Photography] How to Pose Grooms and Groomsmen Effectively

The post How to Pose Grooms and Groomsmen Effectively appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

Wedding days aren’t just about the bride, even though it might seem that way. As photographers we must also take photos of the groom by himself and with his groomsman buddies – whether they like it or not.

Posing the groom alone

When posing the groom alone you often see stiffness and shifting eyes because most men don’t feel  comfortable having their photo taken. So it’s worth starting a conversation that has nothing to do with the wedding to relax them and settle their nerves.

Find a nice background where you can photograph the groom at three different crops: full-body, half-body, and close-up. These three crops will add variety to your portraits, and give you more options when choosing the best portrait to deliver to your clients.

For example, window lighting can add dimension and depth while the groom is adjusting his tie or watch, or buttoning his shirt. Have the groom look out the window, or at his watch or tie. This keeps his hands busy, and because he’s not looking at the camera he won’t feel as vulnerable.

When you’re outside you can have the groom lean on a wall, or simply stand in the middle of a walkway. To help him pose naturally, tell him to stand as if he was by himself and not getting his photo taken.

Also, remind him to breathe. The stiffness is often caused by the groom holding his breath. It will also help him relax his shoulders and overall stance.

Photographing the groom at three different crops is a great way to add variety to the final images.

If the groom usually puts his hand in a pocket, have him put the one furthest from the camera into his pocket. This can help make the portrait feel more natural. Having the groom look at various points beyond the camera (to the side, behind you, or even at his shoes) can reduce the nerves and stiffness, and make him feel more comfortable.

As you’re taking the groom’s portraits, feel free to joke around, talk about things they like, or simply compliment them. This can make them feel more comfortable and bring about natural smiling and laughing, as well as fill in the silence.

Sitting is another great way to pose the groom. Have him sit on steps, a short wall or a chair. It will make the groom feel less stiff, and allow you to focus on various details of his outfit such as his shoes or socks if he chose something special.

Portraits of the groom while with the bride

But the groom doesn’t have to be completely alone in his portraits. A beautiful portrait of the groom with his bride can isolate him while placing him in the overall story of the wedding day.

Pose the couple facing each other, and ask the bride to place her head on his chest or arm to bring her face out a little. Then have her close her eyes while you direct the groom to look at the camera.

Another great portrait is having the groom at a 45-degree angle, with the bride behind him. Ask her to put her head on his back/shoulders, and have him look either directly at you or off into the distance.

He doesn’t have to smile. He can even look a little more serious. But the big picture will still look romantic and show that the couple is sharing a special moment.

You can move the groom and bride from there and create variations where the groom is:

• in focus
• in the forefront
• looking directly at the camera
• the main focal point in the photo.

These will all make great portraits of the groom and help him pose with his bride.

Groomsmen

Groomsmen are really fun to photograph. Most of the time they’re buddies and will joke around a bit, which can make for great candid photos. But it can also mean they won’t take the photo shoot seriously.

One way to get them to listen and cooperate is to let them know the faster they get through the photo shoot, the sooner they can start having fun. But don’t use this trick until you’ve captured some candids showing how they all interact, as it will be nice for the groom to have those as well.

Keep at least three different groomsmen setups in mind before photographing the wedding. You can find inspiration online and save those inspirational photos on your phone to recreate or build on them. This can save you lots of time if you’re new to wedding photography.

Try and keep the conversation light and easygoing. It will help the groomsmen relax, and you’ll get much more authentic expressions from them.

Group huddles and hugs are great icebreakers, and can lighten the mood if you feel the photos are getting a little stiff or the groomsmen are losing steam. A slow walking photo is also nice to have and having them looking at each other and talking is a great way to get them all smiling.

A staggered photo, either on a staircase or in a big area, can provide you with more varied poses for your final photos. If you have enough time, get a photo of each groomsman with the groom. Keep the photos moving by keeping the groom in the same place and having the groomsmen take turns standing beside him.

Keep everyone’s height variations in mind when taking photos of the groom with his groomsmen. Taller groomsmen may need to stand further back. If there are big height differences between the groom and his groomsmen, place those who are about the same height next to the groom, or bring the groom closer to the camera. This can help isolate the groom and make him the focal point of the photo, which is exactly what you want.

Keep everyone moving and try to get the photos done quickly. Groomsmen are usually ready for the next event pretty quickly and get sick of the camera much faster than the bride and bridesmaids.

If the groomsmen have ideas for poses, go along with them. It may be an inside joke or something that brings them closer together as buddies. And they’re usually the photos they love to remember.

Also, always ask if the groomsmen are wearing something special or have a gift from the couple – watches, socks, matching shoes, flasks, etc. These items have far more meaning when they’re photographed in the hands of those who received or are wearing them.

For example, these groomsmen all received personalized flasks from the groom, so a toasting photo was fun to create for them, along with a close-up of one of the flasks.

In conclusion

Grooms and groomsmen are fun to photograph during a wedding. But it’s best to have a few poses in mind so you can work quickly, as they often don’t like having their photos taken and may tire quickly. Keeping the mood light and fun gives them a great experience, and they’ll look back at the photos with fond memories.

The post How to Pose Grooms and Groomsmen Effectively appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jackie Lamas.

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