Dec 26, 2021

[Photography] The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2021

The post The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

the top landscape photography tips of 2021

Looking to enhance your landscape photos in the new year?

Today, we’re sharing our top landscape tips published in 2021. Check out these amazing articles, covering gear, settings, composition, and more!

1. Sunset Predictor: How to Predict Dramatic Sunsets Like a Pro

2. 12 Snow Photography Tips (How to Capture Magical Snow Shots)

3. Long Exposure Photography: A Step-by-Step Guide

4. 11 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results

5. 11 Surefire Landscape Photography Tips (+ Stunning Examples)

6. 5 Reasons to Use a 50mm Lens for Landscape Photography

7. 10 Best Lenses for Landscape Photography (in 2021)

8. 10 Best Cameras for Landscape Photography (in 2021)

9. How to Take Creative Landscape Shots Using Intentional Camera Movement

10. Getting Landscapes Sharp: Hyperfocal Distances and Aperture Selection

11. The Best Landscape Photography Settings: A Guide

12. Fine Art Landscape Photography: The Complete Guide

13. 6 Tips for Setting the Focus in Your Landscape Photography

14. Neutral Density Filters: Everything You Need to Know

15. 5 Tips for Jaw-Dropping Winter Landscape Photography

The top landscape tips of 2021: final words

Well, there you have it:

Our best 15 landscape photography articles from 2021. Give them a read! Then drop a comment below, sharing your favorite.

And be sure to come back tomorrow; we’ll be sharing our top overall photography tips of 2021!

The post The dPS Top Landscape Photography Tips of 2021 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.



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Dec 25, 2021

[Photography] Happy Holidays 2021 From the dPS Team

The post Happy Holidays 2021 From the dPS Team appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Happy holidays from dPS

Well, it’s Christmas, folks! Here at dPS, we’d like to wish you the most joyous of holidays and an amazing end to the year.

We also want to express our gratitude – for being such a vital part of dPS, for supporting us through these difficult times, and for joining us in the most exciting of adventures: photography!

We’re certainly thrilled to keep offering photography instruction in 2022, and you can look forward to some great content. So here’s to a holiday season and a new year filled with gorgeous photos, beautiful light, and photographic fun, as well as health and happiness!

Have a wonderful holiday season and a happy New Year!

The post Happy Holidays 2021 From the dPS Team appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.



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Dec 24, 2021

[Photography] 5 Reasons Why You Need a 24-70mm Lens

The post 5 Reasons Why You Need a 24-70mm Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.

reasons why you need a 24-70mm lens

Are you trying to decide whether a 24-70mm lens is right for you? Like most photographers, I’m a huge 24-70mm fan – and I think you should be, too.

Below, I share my top five reasons why you should purchase a 24-70mm lens, whether you’re a landscape photographer, a portrait photographer, a nature photographer, or a casual hobbyist. I also share plenty of 24-70mm photo examples, so you know what to expect after buying.

While I don’t offer specific 24-70mm lens recommendations, note that pretty much every major lens manufacturer sells top-notch options, including Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Sony, Sigma, and Tamron.

Let’s get started.

woman walking in a field

1. There is no learning curve

The focal length of a 24-70mm lens stretches from wide-angle to short telephoto – but the bulk of its range sits in the standard focal length spot, which corresponds closely to the human eye. Therefore, to use a 24-70mm lens, you don’t need to learn to see differently; instead, looking through a 24-70mm, you’ll get a very natural field of view.

dog surrounded by flowers

In fact, when you’re photographing as the eye sees, it’s much easier to learn composition. You can spot interesting subjects, bring your camera to your eye, and snap away – whereas ultra-wide lenses and telephoto lenses force you to think about the field of view, distortion, compression, and how they change the scene.

Even at 24mm, distortion is limited. So you can do wide-angle photography without worrying about wide-angle effects. And at 70mm, you can zoom in for tighter compositions while still capturing a relatively neutral perspective.

Plus, the 50mm focal length is outstanding for portrait photography: not so long that you lose intimacy, and not so wide that you stretch the subject. Instead, it’s just right.

24-70mm lens woman in a tree

2. 24-70mm lenses offer close focusing

24-70mm lenses are designed for standard-sized subjects, right?

Well, yes…and no.

You see, while these lenses are often created with portrait, landscape, and nature subjects in mind, they also offer impressive close-focusing capabilities. The minimum focusing distance does vary from model to model, but it’s generally around 15 inches (38 centimeters).

In other words, you can use a 24-70mm lens to capture stunning close-up shots – of flowers, leaves, portrait details, and more. What’s especially exciting is how flexible a 24-70mm lens can be; if you’re photographing a portrait subject, you can step back for a nice full-body shot, move in slightly for a head-and-shoulders composition, then move in even closer for a detail photo of your subject’s eyes, ears, or clothing.

Event photographers use this close-focusing flexibility all the time. Zoom out for a shot of the wedding guests, step in for a shot of the centerpieces, zoom out for a shot of the ceiling, step in for a shot of the place settings.

And if you like to shoot landscapes, you can capture sweeping scenics at 24mm, then zoom in to 70mm and get in close for details of rocks, sand patterns, etc.

It’s so convenient, and it’s all thanks to the power of a 24-70mm lens.

24-70mm wolf close-up shot

3. The focal length range is incredibly versatile

I’ve already touched on this, but it’s arguably the most important benefit of a 24-70mm lens, so it deserves its own section.

You see, with a 24-70mm lens, you can shoot at a slew of different focal lengths, from wide to standard to telephoto, and this range offers limitless possibilities in the face of demanding photoshoots.

First of all, when doing a single photoshoot, you can easily go from a wide angle to a zoom, adjusting quickly as the scene and your subjects change. And you won’t have to switch out your lens at all, which will keep the flow of the photoshoot intact and will prevent you from missing key moments as you switch from one lens to the next.

5 Reasons Why You Need a 24-70mm Lens 5 Reasons Why You Need a 24-70mm Lens

Plus, the versatility of a 24-70mm lens means that you can work with it and nothing else, even as you go gallivanting across the world for destination shoots and vacations. Imagine heading to a photoshoot with just one lens in your bag. Nice, right?

dog near a fountain 24-70mm

4. The build is robust and comfortable

Most 24-70mm lenses are impressively robust, featuring a solid build that’s designed to last. Manufacturers know that these are “walkaround” lenses, so they’ve made sure a 24-70mm can handle anything you might face, from rain and snow to blowing sand and dust.

If you frequently shoot in deserts, near waterfalls, or at the beach, then a 24-70mm lens will be a lifesaver, allowing you to capture all sorts of compositions without worrying about ruining your precious optics. Of course, you should always practice proper lens care; I don’t recommend you drop your lens in the water, let it get soaked, and so on. But as far as lenses go, 24-70mm options tend to be very solid.

(And you’ll need a well-built camera, too; while 24-70mm lenses are amazing, they can’t protect your camera electronics!)

Additionally, 24-70mm lenses feel great in the hands. They’re not so long that you’ll get tired after a few hours, and they’re not so short that you have nothing to grip. You can comfortably use a 24-70mm lens for day-long photoshoots, and you’ll always feel like you’re working with an actual, solid lens.

two men in the desert

5. The size and weight is perfect for pretty much everything

On average, 24-70mm lenses measure around 3.3 x 3.3 x 4.9 inches (8.4 x 8.4 x 12.4 centimeters), and they weigh approximately 2 pounds (900 grams).

While these lenses aren’t tiny, they’re certainly not large, nor are they heavy. They fit in pretty much any camera bag you’ll ever encounter, even when they’re attached to a camera – so you can carry your setup in a shoulder-sling bag or a backpack without any trouble. Plus, because 24-70mm lenses are pretty short, you can hang your camera around your neck and you won’t feel like you’re carrying a brick.

In fact, my 50mm (f/1.2) lens weighs more than my 24-70mm lens, even though it’s shorter. And I’ve even managed to put my camera and 24-70mm lens in a regular old purse (which can come in handy in quite a few situations).

Bottom line: A 24-70mm lens is sized for photographic adventures of all types, from treks in the mountains to casual walks around the city to travel photography across the globe.

24-70mm lens man playing cello

5 reasons why you need a 24-70mm lens: final words

Now that you’ve learned why the 24-70mm lens is amazing for most photographers, it’s time to ask yourself:

Is this the right lens for me?

If you’re looking for a do-anything lens that’s relatively light, very well built, and offers impressive close focusing, then I highly recommend you go for it!

Now over to you:

Do you think you’ll buy a 24-70mm lens? What do you plan to use it for? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

man standing among lights

The post 5 Reasons Why You Need a 24-70mm Lens appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anabel DFlux.



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Dec 23, 2021

[Photography] 12 Snow Photography Tips (How to Capture Magical Snow Shots)

The post 12 Snow Photography Tips (How to Capture Magical Snow Shots) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

how to capture magical photos of the snow

If you want to capture stunning snow photography, then you’ve come to the right place.

I love snow photoshoots, and I’ve been photographing snow for years. In this article, I share my absolute best tips for snow shots, including:

  • The best snow photography settings
  • The best time to head out for pictures in the snow
  • How to keep your camera gear safe in the cold
  • How to photograph falling snow for a beautiful, ethereal effect
  • Magical snow picture ideas
  • Much more!

So if you’re ready to learn how to take gorgeous photos in the snow, then let’s dive right in, starting with tip number one:

1. Focus on contrast

Camera autofocus works by identifying contrast…

…so when everything is white, your autofocus will have a hard time acquiring focus, which can lead to a lot of frustration and even missed opportunities (imagine waiting while your lens hunts back and forth, back and forth).

Fortunately, there’s a simple way around this:

Switch your camera to its single-point AF mode. Then position your main focus point over a contrast-heavy area of your snow scene. For instance, you might focus on the bark of a tree, some vegetation poking through the snow, the roof of a house – anything that pops against the white.

Next, press your shutter button halfway. If you’ve found a sufficiently contrasty part of the scene, the focus should lock – but if it still won’t work, you’ll need to identify an even more contrast-heavy subject.

Finally, hold down your shutter button as you recompose the shot. And once you’ve created the perfect composition, press the button the rest of the way to take your perfect photo of snow!

photographing snow beginner's tips

Note that if you’re trying to photograph a low-contrast scene, such as a white house against a snowy backdrop, you may want to give up on autofocus entirely. Switch your lens over to manual focus, then carefully turn your lens’s focus ring until you’ve achieved perfect sharpness. (For even better results, use your camera’s Live View mode to preview the image on the rear LCD and zoom in to check the focus at a high magnification.)

2. Choose the right camera settings for snow photography

While specific snow photoshoot settings will vary depending on the light, the situation, and your artistic intentions, I do have a few simple recommendations.

First, set your camera to shoot in RAW; when you use the RAW file format, you’ll have far more information to work with when editing. That way, you can recover clipped shadows and highlights (the latter are pretty common in snow photography, thanks to the brightness of sun on snow).

ships on the ice

I’d also recommend you select your camera’s Evaluative metering mode, also known as Matrix metering. This will analyze the entire scene to achieve the best possible exposure in most situations (in fact, it’s what I used for all the photos in this article!). If you’re struggling to get a good exposure, you can always try switching over to Spot metering or Partial metering, but Evaluative metering is a good starting point.

Third, you’ll need to dial in one or two stops of positive exposure compensation. Due to the quirks of its meter, your camera will try to make the snow look gray. Exposure compensation will counteract the meter to keep things bright.

Note: If you’re shooting in Manual mode, you can simply decrease the shutter speed by a stop or two to achieve the same result. Speaking of which:

3. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode or Manual mode

trees heavy with snow

Aperture Priority mode allows you to adjust the aperture and ISO while your camera automatically changes the shutter speed to achieve a good exposure.

This is great for situations when the light is frequently changing or when you’re moving from subject to subject (if you’re photographing birds in flight, for instance). It’s also a lifesaver in cold weather, because you generally only need to spin a dial to adjust your aperture (and cold fingers aren’t so great for doing complex operations!).

Plus, by changing the aperture, you can increase and decrease your depth of field for different artistic looks.

Alternatively, you can shoot in Manual mode. You’ll need to adjust all your settings, not just the aperture and ISO, so Manual mode isn’t ideal for fast-moving situations. But if you want complete control over your camera settings, and you don’t mind working with cold fingers, then Manual mode is an excellent choice.

4. Capture snow while it’s still fresh

Here’s a simple snow photography idea:

If you want magical photos, head out just after a fresh snowfall. The world will be sparkly and pristine. You won’t have any footprints, yellow snow, mud, or dirt to deal with; instead, you can focus on creating stunning shots of your winter wonderland.

snow on a sunny day

That said, if you want footprint-free snow, you should plan the photos you’re going to take and the order you’ll take them in. Otherwise, you might accidentally trample the snow during the shooting process, which will ruin your ability to capture future pristine photos.

Note that pristine snow doesn’t last long. Capturing fresh snow might also mean heading out early to shoot (before the kids get up!), or monitoring the weather and getting outside just as the snow stops. Of course, if your schedule isn’t quite so flexible, that’s okay. Just take your camera to an area that you know people won’t disturb, like a forest or field.

5. Keep your batteries warm

You can’t take pictures in snow without fresh batteries – and unfortunately, in cold weather, your batteries won’t last long.

So carry at least two, and keep one in an inside pocket at all times. (Depending on your camera’s battery life, I’d even recommend shooting with three or four batteries. You can grab third-party options online for cheap.)

When the battery in your camera runs low, replace it with a warm one. Then put the drained battery in your pocket; you may even be able to use it again once it warms up.

6. Bag your camera when you come inside

When you take a cold camera into a warm environment, what happens? You get condensation on the lens and potentially even on camera internals, which is – you guessed it! – not good.

Fortunately, it’s an easy problem to prevent.

When you head out into the cold, bring along a large ziplock bag. I usually keep one in my camera bag or jacket pocket. Then, when you’re ready to go inside, just fill the ziplock bag with cold air, put your camera in the bag, and make sure the lock is sealed tight.

Once you’re in the house, put your camera somewhere it can warm up slowly. When the camera reaches room temperature, you can take it out of the bag and use it normally.

(And if you decide to go back outside to photograph after a brief rest in the house, you can safely take your bagged camera out in the cold, open the bag outside, and start shooting again.)

Note that you’ll need to bag your cold camera before taking it into any warm environment, including stores, heated elevators, and a heated car.

7. Don’t worry about the weather

Snowy landscapes look good in both sunny and cloudy weather, so don’t restrict yourself to shooting in specific light. Simply learn to work with the lighting conditions you’re given.

When the sky is cloudy, find elements that will break up the white snow and add interest to your photos, such as trees, grasses, or ice. When the weather is sunny, look for shadows created by the bright sun (and if you shoot in the early morning or evening, do what you can to capture the warm light on the cold snow).

Also, if it’s snowing, be sure to protect your camera, especially if the snow is wet and/or heavy. Consider using a raincover, or – if the wind is minimal – an umbrella.

snow photography trees on ice

While I personally don’t take my camera out in super-cold weather, some people do, and the resulting photos can be stunning.

8. Act fast

Snow changes quickly. It can stop falling in an instant. And when the sun comes out, snow melts, so that those beautiful trees go from dazzling to drab in no time at all.

Monitor the weather carefully. Look out your window frequently. Have your gear ready to go.

And if you come up with a snow picture idea that you like, or if you look out the window and see beautiful snow photoshoot opportunities, don’t dawdle. Capture some snow photography while you still can!

abstract snow photography of ice and branches

9. Be patient

This tip is a corollary to the one above – because while it’s important to always be ready, it’s also important to be patient, especially when you’re faced with rapidly changing conditions.

You see, depending on the light, snow can look sparkly, ethereal, three-dimensional, flat, and so much more. Sometimes, getting the right look simply involves waiting for the light to change.

So if the snow doesn’t look quite how you hoped, check the light. Is the sun behind a cloud? Is the sun too low or high in the sky?

Then wait for the right conditions to take your shot.

snow in the sun with beautiful light

10. Play with perspective

As with all forms of photography, composition is an essential ingredient of great snow photos – so you should pay very careful attention to the items you’re including in the frame, and you should also carefully consider your perspective.

For creative snow photos, try getting down low to shoot up, like this:

photographing snow up a tree

You might also find a deck or a hill that you can use to shoot downward; that way, you can show how the snow blankets the ground, weighs things down, and clings to everything.

And for each photo you take, look for opportunities to make the shot even better. Walk to either side of your subject, consider different angles, get in close, walk far away, even change lenses. After all, who knows what gorgeous photos await, if only you can find them?

11. Use a fast shutter speed to photograph falling snow

If snow is falling and you want to capture the flakes as they drift toward the ground, you’ll need to use a fast shutter speed. Do a bit of experimentation, as the perfect setting will depend on the speed of the snow – but I’d suggest starting around 1/100s or higher, then carefully reviewing the shots on your LCD to see the results.

Of course, snow tends to fall when the world is dark and dreary, so you may struggle to achieve even a 1/100s shutter speed, especially if the snow is heavy or you’re shooting in the evening. Consider boosting your ISO or widening your aperture to get the shutter speed you need.

Alternatively, you can embrace blurred snow; at 1/30s or so, the flakes will turn into long white streaks, which can give a wonderfully artistic look when done carefully.

12. Capture some sparkly bokeh

A sunny winter day is a great time to create bokeh thanks to all the sparkling snow and ice.

You see, pinpricks of light – e.g., light sparkling on snow – when rendered out of focus, can create outstanding bokeh effects, like this:

ice on a branch snow photography

So here’s what you do:

First, look for a subject that has something bright or shiny in the background. This background element could be light reflecting off melting snow, light broken by tree branches, or light shining through ice. Set your camera to a wide-open aperture (e.g., f/2.8 or f/4), and make sure there is some distance between your subject and the shiny background.

Thanks to the wide aperture, your subject will be in focus, but not the shiny background elements.

And when you hit the shutter button, you’ll get lovely background bokeh!

Snow photography tips: final words

Will you be out taking photos on the next snow day? I’m planning on it, and I hope you are, too.

Have fun with your snow photography and experiment with different settings for creative results. Just remember to dress for the weather and bag your camera.

Now over to you:

Which of these snow photography tips and ideas do you plan to try? Do you have any snow photoshoot tips I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 12 Snow Photography Tips (How to Capture Magical Snow Shots) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.



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Dec 22, 2021

[Photography] Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction

The post Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

photo editing for beginners a simple introduction

Photo editing can be pretty daunting. Open up any post-processing program, and you’ll be confronted by a slew of sliders, tools, and options (it’s enough to make anyone feel overwhelmed!).

Fortunately, basic photography editing isn’t nearly as hard as it seems. There are a few simple steps you can take to get great results right off the bat, which I share in this article.

Specifically, I offer a series of basic principles that you can use when editing any image. They’re quick, they’re easy, and they’ll remain useful, even as you level up your editing skills and dive into more advanced applications.

So if you’re ready to get started with photo editing for beginners, then let’s dive right in!

Note: My instructions below reference Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom Classic, but you can achieve the same results with any editing software, including Lightroom CC, ON1 Photo RAW, Capture One, and more.

1. Make sure you shoot in RAW

Technically, this guideline is about photographing, not editing – but it’s so important that I feel obligated to include it.

You see, cameras offer two main file formats: RAW and JPEG.

And while the JPEG format is nice for quick snapshots, if you want to do serious photo editing, then you need to be using RAW. It’ll give you far more flexibility; with a RAW file, you can dramatically alter exposure, white balance, color, and more. Whereas JPEG files only allow limited changes (and if you edit a JPEG file too heavily, you’ll end up with various unwanted artifacts, like banding).

One RAW drawback: It’s not an easily displayable format. Before you can send a RAW photo to friends, post it on social media, or post it on your website, you’ll need to use a RAW editor to convert it to a JPEG. Fortunately, programs like Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom are designed specifically for RAW editing, so they make the conversion process quick and painless.

By the way, you can set the file format in your camera’s menu – and if you’re struggling, check your camera’s manual. These days, pretty much every camera offers a RAW file format (even smartphones!).

2. Start by correcting your exposure

When you bring up a RAW file in your editing program, you may find yourself wondering:

Where do I begin?

And while you can technically go in a hundred different directions, I’d really recommend you first look at your exposure, which is simply the overall brightness of your image.

You should see a simple Exposure slider in your post-processing program of choice:

adjusting the exposure slider

But before you adjust it, ask yourself:

How does my photo look? Is it too bright? Is it too dark? Is it just right?

Generally, you want at least some details in the image shadows and some details in the image highlights. Here, a helpful tool is the histogram, which looks like this:

using the histogram editing for beginners

The histogram shows the distribution of tones in your image. Peaks toward the middle of the histogram represent midtones, whereas peaks toward the left represent shadows and peaks toward the right represent highlights. Note that peaks pressing up against either side of the histogram indicate clipped details, which you should generally avoid (so if you do see these clipped areas, it’s a sign that adjusting your exposure is probably necessary).

After looking at your image and analyzing the histogram, simply move your Exposure slider until you get the result that you want.

(If you’re not sure how to proceed, I’d recommend simply pushing the Exposure slider back and forth while watching your image. You’ll quickly get a sense of what looks good and what doesn’t!)

Note that basic photography editing programs offer additional exposure sliders, and these allow for precise adjustments. For instance, the Highlights slider lets you adjust only the bright areas of the image, the Shadows slider lets you adjust only the dark areas of the image, and so on. Feel free to experiment with these sliders, though always keep your eye on the histogram as you make changes!

3. Select the right white balance

White balance is designed to counteract any unwanted color casts in your photos, and once you’ve adjusted your exposure, it’s the next beginner photo editing step I’d recommend.

Now, your camera will have already applied a white balance of some sort, but it often needs adjustment. A perfect white balance shows the whites in your images exactly as they look in real life (though you can always tweak this later for artistic reasons). Compare the two photos below, one with a too-cool white balance and one with a too-warm white balance:

white balance photo editing

Do you see the difference? Neither of the photos are properly white balanced, which is where your photo editing WB adjustment comes in handy.

Simply look for the white balance section in your post-processing program:

white balance sliders in Lightroom

Select the eyedropper tool, then click on an area of your image that should be a true white color. Your editor will automatically adjust the image for a perfect result (and if you don’t like the effect, or you simply want to adjust the white balance further for creative reasons, you can always move the Temp and Tint sliders until you get a nice look).

4. Boost the contrast (usually)

Contrast simply refers to the difference between the darks and lights in a photo, where intense darks and intense lights creates high contrast, and softer darks and softer lights creates low contrast.

RAW files tend to suffer from limited contrast, so it often makes sense to find your Contrast slider and increase it until you get a nice result:

contrast adjustment in Lightroom

Though you should always be careful not to take the contrast too far; otherwise, you’ll end up creating a garish, nightmarish effect.

By the way, if you’re after a softer, more ethereal look, you may want to decrease the Contrast slider. That’s what photographers often do when shooting in foggy conditions, where a low-contrast look enhances the mood.

(You also have the option to fine tune the contrast with the Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks sliders. Have fun experimenting with different effects!)

5. Check the saturation

Saturation refers to the intensity of the colors in your image, which you can adjust via – you guessed it! – the Saturation slider:

changing the saturation in Lightroom

By boosting the saturation, you can add pop to your image, and so I do often recommend you add a bit of saturation – but carefully, like seasoning to a meal. It’s easy to go too far, and then you’ll end up with an unpleasant result.

Some post-processing programs offer an alternative, called vibrance. This is like saturation, but tends to be more subtle. If saturation isn’t giving you the look you’re after, go ahead and try vibrance instead. Or start by trying vibrance, then move on to saturation. The order isn’t important; it’s all about experimenting to achieve the effect you want!

On occasion, you should even decrease the vibrance and/or saturation. For instance, if you want a moody image but the colors are just too bright and powerful, try reducing the saturation. Here, a little change can go a long way, and by subtly dropping the saturation, you can get an interesting cinematic effect.

5. Reduce noise and increase sharpening

Here’s the final step in this basic photo editing workflow.

Find the portion of your post-processing program that deals with detail:

photo editing sharpening and noise reduction for beginners

And adjust both the sharpness levels and the noise levels.

Now, most RAW photos can do with a bit of sharpening. So go ahead and boost the sharpening amount (be sure to zoom in to 100% while you do this; that way, you can see the effects up close). If your image includes certain areas that you don’t want sharpened – a person’s face, for instance – consider boosting the Masking slider, which will ensure the sharpening only targets the more detailed areas of the shot.

Finally, while every image doesn’t need noise reduction, if you zoom to 100% and see little speckles, you’ll probably want to reduce both luminance noise and color noise. Note that too much noise reduction will decrease sharpness and look all-around bad, so don’t go overboard! Instead, boost the Luminance slider slightly, check the result, and then fine tune. Do the same to the Color slider.

And you’re done! At this point, you can always dive into more advanced photo editing applications (e.g., adjust specific colors or work with the tone curve). Or you can export your image as a JPEG for sharing and viewing!

Photo editing for beginners: final words

final image photo editing for beginners

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to do basic photo editing – and you’re ready to start enhancing your images!

Of course, I’ve only offered a starting point, but it really will take you far. And once you’ve mastered the basics, the sky is the limit!

Now over to you:

What part of photo editing do you struggle with? Do you have any basic photo editing tips of your own? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.



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