Jan 28, 2023

[Photography] Sony to Launch Two New Lenses and the a9 III in Early 2023

The post Sony to Launch Two New Lenses and the a9 III in Early 2023 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.

Sony to launch new camera and lenses

Ever since the announcement of the a7R V back in October, we’ve seen relatively few Sony product launches – but according to Sony Alpha Rumors, the quiet won’t last.

In a breakdown of Sony’s upcoming releases, SAR offered a rough timeline for the first half of 2023, which will be packed full of exciting camera and lens announcements. So what does Sony have in store? Here are a few highlights:

First, expect to see a new prime lens, the FE 50mm f/1.4 GM, hit the shelves in the coming months. SAR promises a February announcement, and while the specific date is still unclear, keep an eye out for updates. The lens will undoubtedly cater to portrait shooters, especially those who can’t shell out for the FE 50mm f/1.2 GM, and Sony Alpha Rumors has previously commented that the 50mm f/1.4 GM “will be basically a more compact and affordable version of the currently available Sony 50mm f/1.2.” 

Then there’s the Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM II, successor to the (already excellent) Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM, a lens that will be perfect for astrophotography, low-light event photography, landscape photography, and more. According to a previous SAR article, the 16-35mm f/2.8 GM II’s launch may coincide with the CP+ show, which will take place from February 23rd to February 26th.

Finally, Sony Alpha Rumors is confident the long-awaited Sony a9 III will “be coming in the next months.” We don’t yet have any confirmed specs, but expect blazing-fast continuous-shooting speeds (perhaps 30 FPS, 45 FPS, or even 60 FPS), an upgraded electronic viewfinder, and class-leading autofocus. The a9 line is designed for sports photographers, and with the outstanding action capabilities featured in the Canon EOS R3 and Nikon Z9, Sony has a real incentive to step up its game. 

But if the a9 III isn’t quite what you’re looking for, don’t fret; SAR notes that the company will launch “many more E-mount cameras this year than…in 2022.” 

In other words, 2023 should be an exciting year for Sony shooters!

Now over to you:

What do you think of this upcoming equipment from Sony? Does any of it interest you? Do you have any gear you’re hoping to see in 2023? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Sony to Launch Two New Lenses and the a9 III in Early 2023 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.



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Jan 27, 2023

[Photography] dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – The Letter T

The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – The Letter T appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.

Oh, hello there! Thought we’d give this fun format a try – This week, your challenge should you choose to accept it, is pretty much anything that STARTS with the letter T.

Tea, Turtles, Taxi, Taco, Turnip, Tackle, Tassels, Tennis, Turntable… I could do this all day! (You should do this all week!)

The photograph MUST be a NEW photograph taken for THIS challenge (note my strategic use of the words all in capital letter there, please!) ? ??

Make sure you include the two challenge hashtags in your post, in the comments or anywhere on social media, Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

#dPSWeeklyChallenge and #dPSTheLetterT – These work as a ‘search’ when on social media, so it means we can find and look at your weekly photos.

dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – The Letter T
Photo by Immo Wegmann on Unsplash

Catch up on a challenge you missed here!

The post dPS Weekly Photo Challenge – The Letter T appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sime.



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[Photography] How to Buy Used Camera Gear: A Step-By-Step Guide

The post How to Buy Used Camera Gear: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.

How to buy used camera gear

Digital photography equipment – especially top-notch mirrorless cameras, DSLRs, and lenses – is expensive. While big manufacturers do continue to add more affordable options to their lineups, what if you need a high-level camera or lens but don’t have $3000+ to spend?

That’s where used gear comes in handy. If you approach the used market correctly, you can often obtain near-mint cameras and lenses at incredible discounts. But shopping on the used market comes with plenty of pitfalls, and without a careful strategy, you may find yourself wasting time, effort, and money on defective or damaged equipment.

As a photographer who relies constantly on the used market, I know how to avoid these problems, and below, I share a step-by-step approach so you can successfully purchase used gear of your own.

Let’s dive right in!

Step 1: Price check used items before buying

How to buy used camera gear

Just about every online camera retailer has a used section on their website. Availability of items is obviously variable, but a simple item check can pull up estimates for the current standard used prices of the items you want. Before you hit that “Buy Button,” I encourage you to look at multiple websites, identifying the average and lowest prices, with the aim of determining the best purchase for your needs.

But don’t simply be drawn in by rock-bottom prices! Be sure to note the quality rating and the description for each item and see how it compares to your expectations. Often, used items that are priced too low have some sort of cosmetic or mechanical problem, so if you think a deal is too good to be true, then it probably is.

Another reason to be suspicious of outrageously low prices? The item might be gray market, which means it essentially comes with no factory warranty. The best way to check this is to find the serial number and reference it in the camera maker’s database.

The advantage of buying used gear online – as opposed to in person – is that the gear has often been checked out and issued a rating by the retailer. Additionally, online used gear, especially when it comes directly from users, tends to be far cheaper than used gear purchased from a dedicated brick-and-mortar retailer. There may also be some flexibility in terms of exchanges and returns in case you aren’t happy with your purchase.

Pro tip: Before buying, be sure to double-check and make sure the seller has a good reputation, especially on marketplaces like Amazon and eBay.

How to buy used camera gear

Step 2: Ask any relevant questions

If you walk into a camera shop and do a hands-on inspection of the gear you wish to buy (see the next step), this may not be necessary. But if you’re buying online, you’ll generally be working with a limited description of the item, and if you’re not careful, you may end up purchasing a camera or a lens that doesn’t meet your expectations.

That’s why it’s important to read gear descriptions carefully and ask specific questions to gather any missing information. Some sellers simply aren’t aware of certain relevant tidbits, and it takes a bit of prompting before you can get the information you’re after. Others will deliberately hide relevant information, and it’s important that you ferret out the truth before buying.

You might be thinking: If a seller fails to disclose relevant information, I can just return the gear, right?

Unfortunately, it’s not that simple. Depending on the return policy, you may only be able to return the item if it’s not as described. And if the description is very vague, you may have trouble obtaining a no-cost return – whereas if you had asked specific questions, you would’ve had a much easier time!

So make sure you submit lots of relevant questions. When buying a used camera, ask:

  • How many shutter actuations does the camera have?
  • Does the sensor have any significant dirt or dust spots?

When buying a used lens, ask:

  • Does the lens have any fungus or haze?
  • Does the lens have any scratches on the front or rear element?
  • Does the lens have any large pieces of dust?
  • Does the lens autofocus work well?
  • Does the lens autofocus mechanism contain any sand?

Some of these questions may seem outlandish, but you’d be surprised by what can turn up in a camera or lens. Better to be safe than sorry!

Step 3: Inspect the gear

If you plan to buy your gear in person, you can generally do an inspection before agreeing to purchase the equipment. But if you buy your gear online, you’ll need to do a thorough inspection upon receipt. After all, you don’t want to use a lens for a month, only to realize that a certain feature doesn’t work!

This inspection should differ depending on the item you’re buying:

How to inspect a used camera

How to buy used camera gear

Used camera bodies can be tricky to assess, but the right approach will save you a lot of headache down the line. While it’s perfectly normal for bodies to have physical signs of wear and tear, pay attention to your initial impression of the camera. If the camera appears badly worn and heavily used, it probably doesn’t look any better on the inside.

However, the most telling part of the camera body’s lifespan is the shutter, which is very expensive to replace. People sometimes sell their cameras when the shutter is about to die, meaning the new owner will soon have to spend a lot of extra money to replace it. That’s why it’s important to always assess the shutter count as soon as you receive the camera; how to check this, as well as how the number of actuations that are acceptable, depends on the camera make and model. Google searches and forums should offer some resources.

Make sure you also test the camera’s autofocus capabilities. Make sure that both single and continuous autofocus performs as expected, and examine the mount to make sure the lens interfaces securely with the camera.

How to buy used camera gear

I’d also recommend taking a few test shots and examining the results at 100% magnification. Look for significant dust spots and any areas of blur, which can indicate potential mistreatment (and can dramatically impact your images).

How to inspect a used lens

How to buy used camera gear

Lenses are relatively straightforward to assess. First, investigate the lens thoroughly and look for common problems such as fungus, dust, and scratches. Shine a light through the lens and identify any imperfections. Note that some problems, such as dust and small scratches, are effectively cosmetic and generally won’t affect overall image quality. However, any signs of fungus should be a complete deal breaker as it is incredibly difficult and costly to remove. You should also check the lens contacts to make sure they look relatively clean and in good condition.

Second, do a mechanical test of the lens to see how it performs. It’s best to have your regular camera with you to see how the lens fits. Make sure the aperture blades are clean and can move freely, and try out both the zoom and focus rings. Depending on the lens model, it’s not uncommon for the rings to offer some resistance, but be sure they both operate relatively smoothly. Check out the lens’s autofocus capabilities and make sure focusing is smooth.

How to buy used camera gear

Finally, capture some test photos – you can find a test chart online – and zoom in to 100% to assess image quality. Look for unusual amounts of chromatic aberration, front- or back-focusing issues, unusual softness, and significant changes in sharpness across the frame. Be sure to capture test shots at a range of focal lengths and points of focus. (Note that many lenses do vary in sharpness from the center to the corners and from the middle of the zoom range to the extreme ends. But a dramatic loss of sharpness from one side of the frame to the other, or from one end of the zoom range to the other, is not a good sign.)

Step 4: Keep the gear (or send it back)

If you follow the previous steps and you’re pleased with your purchase, then go ahead and keep it! You’ve likely managed to grab a great camera, lens, or accessory at a very cheap price.

However, if you noticed some problems during your inspection, it’s up to you to decide whether the equipment is worth returning. If the issues are minor but significant, you can often ask for a discount from the seller. And if the issues are serious, I’d recommend just returning the gear; trying to fix problems yourself or send the gear in for repairs often isn’t worth the cost or the hassle.

How to buy used camera gear: final words

Well, there you have it:

My step-by-step guide to purchasing used gear.

Remember: Whether you’re an amateur or a professional, it’s completely acceptable to purchase equipment on the used market. Just be sure to do your research, and have a thorough understanding of the product you’ are considering’re buying. Always use reputable sources, and always inspect the item as soon as you receive it!

Now over to you:

What used gear do you plan to buy? Where will you buy it? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Buy Used Camera Gear: A Step-By-Step Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Suzi Pratt.



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[Photography] The 31 Best Street Photography Quotes

The post The 31 Best Street Photography Quotes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.

The best quotes for street photographers

Street photography is a powerful medium that’s capable of memorializing the beauty and complexity of the world around us. Capturing emotion and telling stories that are both personal and universal is at the heart of the timeless street shots, and if you use your camera to document the world around you, you provide a legacy for generations to come.

In this article, I share some of the best street photography quotes composed by an array of photographers. I hope these quotes will give you a glimpse into how some of the most accomplished shooters see the world around them – and inspire you to keep on photographing!

Capturing the moment: best quotes

Street photography quotes

The power of observation is one essential aspect of street photography. Through careful observation, you can capture the essence of a moment. You can freeze it in time, allowing the viewer to understand more about how you see the world.

In this section, I explore some of the best quotes from famous photographers on the power of observation so you can better understand the art of capturing the moment:

1. “Think about the photo before and after, never during. The secret is to take your time. You mustn’t go too fast. The subject must forget about you. Then, however, you must be very quick.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

2. My photography is a reflection, which comes to life in action and leads to meditation. Spontaneity – the suspended moment – intervenes during action, in the viewfinder. – Abbas

3. “Anyone can shoot chaos. But the most perceptive photographers can make compelling pictures out of uninteresting moments.” – Alex Tehrani

4. “All the technique in the world doesn’t compensate for the inability to notice.” – Elliott Erwitt

5. “Chance is always there. We all use it. The difference is a poor photographer meets chance one out of a hundred times and a good photographer meets chance all the time.” – Brassai

Street photography quotes

Telling a story through street photography: best quotes

Street photography isn’t just about taking random photos; it’s about telling a story. The art of observation and the photographer’s perspective together create a narrative through images. 

In this section, I share some of the best quotes about the art of storytelling in street photography. Hopefully, they’ll inspire you to see the world in a new and more meaningful way.

6. “The whole point of taking pictures is so that you don’t have to explain things in words.” – Elliott Erwitt

7. “The marvels of daily life are exciting; no movie director can arrange the unexpected that you find in the street.” – Robert Doisneau

8. “Photography is a reality so subtle that it becomes more real than reality.” – Alfred Stieglitz

9. “Photography is the only language that can be understood anywhere in the world.”  – Bruno Barbey

10. “A great photograph needs no explanation; it functions by suggestion. There is no need to be explicit.” – Mary Ellen Mark

Street photography quotes

Capturing emotion in street photography: best quotes

Emotion is an integral part of street photography. Emotion is what makes your images come alive and helps connect the viewer to your subject. The most accomplished street photographers know how to capture the atmosphere and emotion of each and every location they work in.

So without further ado, let’s take a look at some inspiring quotes on photographing emotion:

11. “If a photographer cares about the people before the lens and is compassionate, much is given. It is the photographer, not the camera, that is the instrument.” – Eve Arnold

12. “What you look for in a picture is a metaphor, something that means something more, that makes you think about things you’ve seen or thought about.” – Mary Ellen Mark

13. “It is more important to click with people than to click the shutter.” – Alfred Eisenstaedt

14. “Seeing is not enough; you have to feel what you photograph.” – Andre Kertesz

15. “Emotion or feeling is really the only thing about pictures I find interesting. Beyond that it is just a trick.” – Christopher Anderson

16. “When people look at my pictures, I want them to feel the way they do when they want to read a line of a poem twice.” – Robert Frank

Street photography quotes

The role of the photographer: best quotes

The role of the photographer is crucial when it comes to capturing the image and the story behind it. To create unique images, you must learn how to express your vision through your pictures.

In this section, I explore some of the best quotes about the role of the image-maker in street photography. They’ll teach you how your perspective shapes each image and the story it tells.

17. “I only know how to approach a place by walking. For what does a street photographer do but walk and watch and wait and talk, and then watch and wait some more, trying to remain confident that the unexpected, the unknown, or the secret heart of the known awaits just around the corner.” – Alex Webb

18. “The urge to create, the urge to photograph, comes in part from the deep desire to live with more integrity, to live more in peace with the world, and possibly to help others to do the same.” – Wynn Bullock

19. “A photograph is neither taken nor seized by force. It offers itself up. It is the photo that takes you. One must not take photos.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

20. “All photographs are memento mori. To take a photograph is to participate in another person’s (or thing’s) mortality, vulnerability, mutability. Precisely by slicing out this moment and freezing it, all photographs testify to time’s relentless melt.” -Susan Sontag

21. “One of the joys of photography is that you never know what will come at you from around the next corner.” – Tom Ang

Street photography quotes

The ethics of street photography: best quotes

With street photography comes great responsibility. It’s important to be aware of the impact your images can have on the people in them, and showing both respect and responsibility in the way we capture and share street photos is essential. 

In this section, I share some of the best quotes about the ethics of street photography, with the aim of showing how respect and responsibility play a crucial role in the medium.

22. “For me, a photograph is a page from life, and that being the case, it must be real.” – Weegee

23. “The camera is an excuse to be someplace you otherwise don’t belong. It gives me both a point of connection and a point of separation.” – Susan Meiselas

24. “I love the people I photograph. I mean, they’re my friends. I’ve never met most of them or I don’t know them at all, yet through my images, I live with them.” – Bruce Gilden

25. “I don’t believe a person has a style. What people have is a way of photographing what is inside them. What is there comes out.” – Sebastiao Salgado

26. “I go straight in very close to people and I do that because it’s the only way you can get the picture. You go right up to them. Even now, I don’t find it easy. I don’t announce it. I pretend to be focusing elsewhere. If you take someone’s photograph it is very difficult not to look at them just after. But it’s the one thing that gives the game away. I don’t try and hide what I’m doing – that would be folly.” – Martin Parr

Street photography quotes

Finding beauty in the everyday: best quotes

Street photography is all about capturing the beauty in the ordinary. By looking carefully, you can find – and photograph – the extraordinary in everyday objects and subjects. It’ll help you see the world in new ways and capture the beauty of the mundane.

In this section, I explore some of the best quotes about the poetry in the ordinary, and how you can find and capture it in your street photography.

27. “Part of the role of photography is to exaggerate, and that is an aspect that I have to puncture. I do that by showing the world as I really find it.” – Martin Parr

28. “There is a vast difference between taking a picture and making a photograph.” – Robert Heinecken

29. “It’s one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it’s another thing to make a portrait of who they are.” -Paul Caponigro

30. “To me, photography is the simultaneous recognition, in a fraction of a second, of the significance of an event.” – Henri Cartier-Bresson

31. “You can find pictures anywhere. It’s simply a matter of noticing things and organizing them. You just have to care about what’s around you and have a concern with humanity and the human comedy.” – Elliott Erwitt

Street photography quotes

The best street photography quotes: final words

Street photography is a powerful medium. It allows photographers to capture candid moments and tell unique stories with their images.

I hope this list of the best street photography quotes provides insight and inspiration. These pearls of wisdom highlight the artistry, passion, and dedication that goes into this genre of image-making.

Whether you’re a seasoned street photographer or just starting out, these quotes can serve as inspiration for your own work, and they’ll remind you of the importance of capturing the beauty and chaos of everyday life!

The post The 31 Best Street Photography Quotes appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kevin Landwer-Johan.



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Jan 25, 2023

[Photography] 5 Practical Lightroom Tips for Beginners

The post 5 Practical Lightroom Tips for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Practical tips for Lightroom beginners

Lightroom is so powerful that many of its most useful features can take a long time to discover and are often hidden beneath a blanket of keyboard shortcuts and obscure menus. I first started learning Lightroom as a longtime user of Apple’s image-processing program Aperture, and when making the switch, I was overwhelmed by the sheer number of available options.

But after much experimenting, online searching, and good old-fashioned trial and error, I figured out a workflow that suits my needs. And if you’re struggling to get started with Lightroom, you can, too; you may not use every single feature and option available to you in Lightroom, but the key is to find the tools and techniques that work for you and learn to master them.

Below, I share five of the handiest Lightroom tips for beginners. Try out the features and techniques that I share, and you may find that they greatly enhance your own experience with the program!

1. Create import presets

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-Presets

You probably already know that Lightroom contains dozens of presets to get you started editing your photos. These can be quite handy when you need to make a quick adjustment or add an effect, but it’s important to realize that they’re not special filters like what you might find in Instagram or other image-sharing programs.

Instead, Lightroom presets are simply premade recipes using the various sliders and controls available to you in the program’s Develop module. The Cinematic CN01 preset, for example, is a collection of saved values from Lightroom’s Basic, Tone Curve, HSL, and Color Grading panels.

What this means is that it’s easy to create presets of your own. You don’t have to rely on some behind-the-scenes magic, but you can instead make a few adjustments until you like the result, save it as a preset, and then use it the next time you’re editing your photos. It’s a great way to speed up your processing workflow without sacrificing quality.

And did you know you can extend this function even further? It’s true. You see, you can automatically apply a given preset – even one you create yourself – to all your pictures upon import. This is incredibly useful if you have a given set of values that you like to use as an editing starting point – so rather than making similar adjustments to the Highlights, Shadows, Clarity, etc., for every image, you can simply apply default values to every picture on import.

It’s easy to do, too. Simply find the Apply During Import pane in the Import dialog, select a preset, then click the Import button!

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-D7100-Import-Preset

2. Use number keys to fine-tune adjustments in the Develop Module

When working in the Develop module, it can be a bit tricky to get the exact values you want by manually moving the sliders. (After all, a bit of cursor movement can result in a huge adjustment…)

One way to fix this? Hover your cursor over the left side of the panes, then drag until the panels are much wider:

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-develop-sliders

But if you don’t want to lose a lot of screen real estate to Lightroom sliders, you can try another handy trick: Simply use the arrow keys to adjust the number values in very small increments.

For example, if you want to adjust the exposure, simply select the slider value in the Basic panel, then press the up or down arrow keys to adjust it in increments of 10. If you want to adjust the Clarity, select the slider value, then press the arrow keys to change it in increments of 1.

Pro tip: For greater adjustments, hold down the Shift key while you press the arrow keys. This will cause the values to change more rapidly (for instance, the Exposure slider will go up by 33, the Clarity slider will go up by 10, and so on).

(By the way, you can also try holding down the Shift key while dragging the Develop module sliders; this will dramatically slow down the rate at which the sliders increase or decrease and can be another great way to gain more precision when editing.)

3. Customize the Develop module

If you’re overwhelmed by the massive number of options in the Develop module, you’ll love this handy Lightroom trick for beginners, which lets you reduce the number of editing options in the program.

Start by right-clicking on the name of one of the adjustment panels (e.g., Basic). Then choose Customize Develop Panel.

This will bring up a menu that allows you to disable the adjustment panels you don’t want. I’d recommend considering each panel individually; ask yourself whether you plan to use it regularly, and if the answer is “No,” then it’s a good candidate for deletion! That way, you can have a cleaner and less cluttered working environment, and you don’t waste time clicking on or scrolling past features you never use.

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-hide-panels

One additional tip: When you right-click the name of a panel, you also have the option to choose Solo Mode, which is a way to declutter the Develop module even more by collapsing all the panels except the one you’re currently using. With Solo mode active, every time you click on a new panel, the previous panel will be instantly shut! This one little feature has single-handedly saved me a lot of time and a great deal of headache.

4. Create Smart Collections to automatically sort photos

Lightroom’s Library module is a great place to keep your images organized. You can create virtual folders called Collections that can even be placed inside Collection Sets, and if that isn’t enough, you can even create Collection Sets to contain your Collection Sets.

But what I find even more useful than Collection Sets is the Smart Collections feature, which allows you to dynamically organize your images based on conditions you specify (e.g., a file’s ratings, the camera used to take a file, the file type, and more).

To create a Smart Collection, choose New Smart Collection from the Library menu, then specify the parameters you want to use. Any picture that meets your criteria – at any point in your editing process – will automatically be placed inside the virtual folder you created!

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-smart-collection

In the above image, you can see that I’ve created a Smart Collection that automatically sorts through all my photos and “collects” those shots that are rated at three stars and above, are flagged, were taken using an Olympus camera, contains the keyword “racing,” and is not a DNG file. Neat, right?

Smart Collections are a great way to enhance your organizational process, and they can really help you sort through your images to focus on the ones you want to work with.

5. Hold down the Alt/Option key when adjusting certain sliders

The effects of many of the adjustments in the Develop module are self-evident; increase the Exposure, and your image will get lighter. But what about the adjustments that are not so easy to see, such as the Radius slider in the Detail panel?

Fortunately, Lightroom offers a handy solution: Hold down the Alt/Option key, and you’ll see a real-time display of precisely what happens when you make the adjustment. For certain sliders, you’ll get a gray overlay that helps you evaluate your changes, and for others, you’ll get a black or a white overlay (where colors indicate areas that have zero highlight or shadow detail).

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-pastry

As I was editing this cupcake photo, I needed to make some tonal adjustments. I wanted to dial down the Black levels, but I didn’t want to make any part of the image completely black. By holding down the Alt/Option key as I adjusted the Blacks slider, I was able to see a real-time display of the areas of the image that had no detail:

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-pastry-option-key

In the above image, the bottom of the dessert has become completely black, which means it cannot get any darker, and the red areas will soon become entirely black if I continue to move the slider to the left.

If you ever struggle to perceive how your image is being modified by a certain slider, try holding the Alt/Option key and see what happens. It’s a trick that works for many of the sliders in the Develop module, and it can greatly assist you as you edit!

Lightroom tips for beginners: final words

five-lightroom-tips-for-beginners-sunrise

These five Lightroom tips and tricks have made a huge difference in my own post-processing over the years – hopefully, they’ll help you, too!

So head over to Lightroom and try out some of these features. See if you can declutter your workspace, create some Smart Collections to organize your images, and have fun!

Now over to you:

What are your favorite aspects of Lightroom? Do you have any other beginner tips others might now be familiar with? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 5 Practical Lightroom Tips for Beginners appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.



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Jan 24, 2023

[Photography] 15 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results

The post 15 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

Tips for gorgeous sunset photography

Sunset photography is fun, rewarding, and often breathtakingly beautiful – but creating stunning sunset shots can be tough, especially for beginners. The bright skies and dark foregrounds lead to exposure problems, while the limited lighting can encourage blur due to camera shake.

That’s where this article comes in handy! Below, I share 15 easy-to-follow tips that’ll instantly improve your sunset images, including:

  • How to capture beautiful tones consistently
  • How to create balanced, pro-level compositions
  • The best type of weather for sunset photos
  • A simple trick to make your shots stand out
  • Much more!

So if you’re ready to become a sunset photography master, then let’s dive right in.

1. For the best shots, plan ahead

While you can sometimes capture beautiful sunset shots without any forethought, the best shots usually come from real planning.

So scope out places that might be good for sunsets the day or two before your shoot. Look for interesting locations – locations where you can photograph the sun all the way down to the horizon line, and where there will be opportunities for shots that include foreground elements and silhouettes.

The sunset window is often rather short, which is why you want to think about these elements before the sunset begins. Otherwise, you might miss the best shots.

Find out when the sun will set, then arrive at least half an hour beforehand. While you can capture incredible shots of the sun sinking below the horizon, you’ll often encounter plenty of magic in the lead-up to the sunset.

And keep an eye on the weather. There are a variety of different types of sunsets that produce a range of different types of lights and patterns in the sky. Don’t just head out on clear days, because while these can produce some wonderful colors, it’s usually the days with (partial) clouds when the real action happens.

(Also, dust and smoke in the air can produce amazing results, too.)

Consider the equipment you might need. Take a tripod, lenses with a range of focal lengths, and extra batteries. That way, when the sky turns beautiful, you’ll be ready!

sunset photography tips dock with boat

2. Use the right camera

Technically speaking, you can capture amazing sunset images using any type of camera, from the cheapest smartphone model to the most expensive medium-format mirrorless unit. But certain cameras do offer advantages, so if you’re serious about sunset (or sunrise) photography, it may make sense to purchase a new model.

For instance, full-frame cameras – especially the latest full-frame mirrorless cameras – offer breathtaking dynamic range. This allows you to capture dark shadows and bright highlights in a single frame, which comes in handy if you prefer to photograph the sunset in a single shot (as opposed to using a bracketing or HDR approach). These full-frame cameras also offer impressive low-light performance, and while this isn’t a huge deal if you plan to shoot in decent light and use a tripod, it can make a big difference if you choose to shoot handheld or at night.

It’s also a good idea to grab a camera with a decent number of megapixels. Most modern mirrorless cameras offer at least 20 MP, but it pays to purchase a 30 MP, 40 MP, or even 60 MP model, especially if you want to create large prints from your photos.

The specific camera you buy will depend on your interests, your budget, and your brand of choice, but a few great options are the Sony a7R IV, the Canon EOS R5, and the Nikon Z7 II. (Note that the best sunset photography cameras overlap almost perfectly with the best landscape photography cameras, so you can always check out our landscape camera recommendations!)

3. Shoot at a variety of focal lengths

Most sunsets are photographed with wide-angle lenses, and these focal lengths can make for beautiful images. A lens in the 10-30mm range will give you sweeping shots of your sunset scene.

However, if you want the sun itself to be a main feature of the shot, you’ll need to zoom on in. The sun is just half a degree across, so when you shoot with a wide-angle lens, the sun will be tiny in the frame. If you want to highlight the sun, you’ll need to zoom in with a 200mm lens or longer. (This, in turn, will increase your need for a tripod, which I discuss below.)

Also, be hyper-aware of eye-safety concerns because looking at the sun is always dangerous. And it’s even more dangerous when you look at it through a telephoto lens. So if you do include the sun in your composition, never look through your camera’s optical viewfinder. Instead, use Live View to check your composition and exposure on the rear LCD.

(If you use a mirrorless camera, this won’t be an issue. You can safely look at the sun through an electronic viewfinder.)

4. Use the rule of thirds to improve your sunset photography compositions

The rule of thirds states that you should position key elements of your scene a third of the way into the frame. So instead of putting the horizon in the center of the landscape composition, put it toward the top or the bottom, like this:

tree at sunset

Do you see how the horizon is a third of the way up from the bottom? That’s what the rule of thirds suggests.

And it’s not just about horizons. You can also use the rule of thirds to position the sun, foreground elements, background elements, you name it.

Of course, the rule of thirds isn’t a requirement. And you can break the rule of thirds for stunning results in certain situations. But in general, the rule of thirds is a great starting point – so unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, I highly recommend you follow it!

5. Experiment with different exposures (to achieve a magical result)

When doing sunset photography, you should always shoot with a semi-automatic or Manual mode. Don’t let your camera dictate your settings for you (in other words: get off Auto mode immediately!). So before starting a sunset shoot, switch your camera over to Aperture Priority mode, Shutter Priority mode, or Manual mode.

And don’t just take one shot using one exposure. Instead, take a variety of shots at different exposures.

While you can try a “standard” exposure based on your camera’s recommendation, don’t be afraid to underexpose by raising your shutter speed or narrowing your aperture. And don’t be afraid to overexpose by doing the opposite.

silhouetted skyline

The great thing about sunsets is that there is no one “right” exposure. You can get stunning results with underexposure and overexposure; the key is to experiment.

(Personally, I tend to start with a relatively quick shutter speed, then slowly work down to slower shutter speeds for brighter, more luminous shots.)

6. Bracket often

In the previous tip, I talked about experimenting with different exposures. But if you want to take a more formal exposure approach, I’d recommend using a bracketing technique.

Here’s how it works:

First, take a photo using your camera’s suggested settings.

Then adjust the settings (either manually or via exposure compensation) to slightly underexpose the photo. Take a shot. And then adjust the settings to slightly overexpose the photo. In other words, if your camera says to shoot at f/8, you would take your first shot at f/8, as recommended. But your second shot would be at f/5.6, and your third shot would be at f/11. That way, you’d end up with a “standard” shot, a darker shot, and a brighter shot, all of which will give you different colors and effects.

It’s a good way to guide your experimentation, and it’s also a good way to create “insurance” photos – so that, if you overexpose the standard shot on accident, you still have a darker file on your memory card. Make sense?

sunset photography tips sunbeams

7. Auto Exposure Lock is your friend

Bracketing can be a lot of fun, but it also takes time – and if you only have time for a shot or two, it’s not the most precise way to create a well-exposed image. That’s where Auto Exposure Lock (AEL) comes in handy.

Using AEL is simple. First, you point your camera at the area of the scene you want perfectly exposed, such as a beautiful foreground feature. Then lock the exposure. Finally, reframe the picture (while maintaining the exposure lock).

Basically, it lets you determine the exposure without interference from the ultra-bright sunset, which can wreak havoc on a camera’s meter.

Also note that you can use Auto Exposure Lock to create beautiful silhouettes; just point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, lock the exposure, and then reframe with a foreground subject. The result will look like this:

horse silhouette

8. Experiment with different angles

Once you’ve got started with sunset photography, you may be tempted to constantly shoot from the same chest- or eye-level vantage point. After all, if it isn’t broken, there’s no reason to fix it, right?

On the one hand, this standard vantage point will get you great shots. And there’s nothing wrong with applying a certain compositional tactic across many photoshoots.

But eventually, you may want to capture images that stand out from the pack – and a great way to do this is by varying your angle.

Instead of always placing your camera on your fully extended tripod and pointing it at the horizon, try to mix it up. For instance, you can:

  • Get down low to emphasize the foreground
  • Find a high vantage point to produce unique overhead shots
  • Shoot from an oblique angle for a more energized composition
  • Shoot through a foreground subject to give a feeling of peeking out at the sunset

Of course, don’t give up the more conventional approach completely, but do try these other perspectives and see what you think!

9. Shoot in RAW whenever possible

Many photographers, especially when they’re starting out, are inclined to capture JPEG images, which are small, highly shareable, and require no special editing.

But while JPEGs are convenient, they come at a cost: When your camera creates a JPEG, it compresses the image data, which ultimately results in less information in the file. RAW files, on the other hand, contain all the image data from the moment of capture, which offers several major advantages, including:

  • RAW files have more color information, so it’s easier to push colors in different directions without introducing unpleasant banding effects
  • RAW files have more tonal information, so you can recover detail in the shadows and the highlights that is completely lost in JPEG files

In sunset photography, when you’re often working with lots of gorgeous colors and a huge dynamic range, the ability to make these tweaks and recover lost information is invaluable. And while RAW files don’t look as stunning as JPEGs right off the bat, you only need a little bit of editing knowledge to make them look incredible!

Note that you will need some form of RAW processing software to make your files shareable, but there are plenty of amazing programs out there, including paid options like Lightroom Classic and Photoshop, as well as free programs like RawTherapee.

10. For the best colors, get off Auto White Balance

Your white balance setting adjusts the temperature of the colors in your scene. So depending on the white balance, you’ll end up with a cooler (bluer) photo or a warmer (redder) photo.

When the white balance is set to Auto, your camera will automatically deal with the color temperature. And while this can sometimes work, it often gives subpar results – where you lose the warm golden tones of your sunset.

Therefore, instead of using Auto White Balance, switch your camera to the Cloudy or Shade presets, which will warm things up a little. Alternatively, if you’re shooting a sunset and you do want a cooler, moody shot, you can experiment with other white balance settings, such as Incandescent.

One more thing:

If you shoot in RAW, it’s true that you can always tweak the white balance during post-processing. However, this is often pretty inconvenient; after all, how much time do you want to spend adjusting the white balance in front of your computer? That’s why it’s worth getting the white balance right in-camera.

11. Always bring a tripod for the sharpest results

If you’re shooting at longer shutter speeds, such as 1/60s and beyond, then a tripod makes a huge difference. It’ll keep your camera stable – so that your files remain tack sharp.

When you’re out doing sunset photography, you don’t need to start the shoot with a tripod, because the minutes leading up to a sunset bring plenty of light.

But as the sun sinks on the horizon, a tripod will become more and more necessary. (And by the time the sun is gone, a tripod will be absolutely essential.)

Note that you might want to use a tripod for your whole photoshoot, especially if you plan to capture long exposures that feature moving water, like this one:

long exposure sunset photography

What if you don’t have a tripod or you forget to bring one? In such cases, I recommend you stabilize your camera against an object. You can put it on the hood of a car, or you can just set it on the ground; whatever allows you to minimize movement as much as possible.

12. Use a remote release or a two-second timer

If you’re using a tripod to capture your sunset images, then you’ve already removed one major source of blur: shake due to handholding.

However, it’s also important to address another source of blur: the vibrations created when you press the shutter button. You may not realize it, but every time you press that shutter button, you’re creating a slight amount of vibration – and if your shutter speed is slow enough, that vibration will blur the image.

Fortunately, there are two easy methods to avoid this problem:

  • Use a remote release, which allows you to trigger the shutter without actually touching the shutter button
  • Use your camera’s two-second self-timer, which gives the camera vibrations a few seconds to die down before the shutter actually fires

A remote release tends to be a bit more convenient, plus it helps with timing if you’re photographing waves – but a two-second self-timer is built right into your camera, so it’s the easier and cheaper route.

13. Don’t be afraid to focus manually

We all love autofocus – but sometimes, when shooting in extreme lighting conditions, autofocus just won’t get the job done. Your lens will hunt all around, and the shot will end up out of focus.

That’s where manual focus comes in handy.

Now, not all lenses support manual focus. Some only allow for autofocusing, in which case you’re out of luck.

But many lenses do let you focus manually (and you can generally activate manual focus by pushing the AF/MF switch on the lens barrel to MF).

So when your lens starts to hunt, don’t fret; just swap over to manual focus and keep shooting!

14. Shoot more than just the sunset

Here’s one of the many wonderful things about sunsets:

They don’t just create wonderful colors in the sky; they also cast a beautiful golden light that is great for other types of photography!

So as the sunset progresses, keep an eye on other photographic opportunities around you. For instance, you can capture portrait, landscape, or macro shots. In the light of the setting sun, it’ll all turn out amazing!

portrait silhouette with sunstar

15. Keep shooting (even after the sun is gone)

A sunset constantly changes over time – which means that every additional minute is an opportunity for a different shot.

So don’t take a few shots and call it an evening. Instead, stick around and photograph the sun as it goes down. You can continue to capture the same composition, or you can test out different compositions; the key is to keep your camera out and your finger on the shutter button.

Also make sure to capture different exposures (bracket!) and consider working with different focal lengths, as I’ve discussed above.

And finally:

Don’t pack up once the sun is gone. The period after the sun has disappeared – called the blue hour – can be great for photography, too, thanks to its beautiful colors and ethereal light. So if you still have the energy, keep finding compositions until the colors have vanished completely from the horizon.

sunset photography tips

Sunset photography tips: conclusion

Now that you know these tips, you’re well on your way to capturing some stunning sunset photography of your own.

So the next time the sun starts to get low in the sky…

…grab your camera and head outside!

Amazing images await.

Now over to you:

Which of these sunset photography tips is your favorite? Are you going to use any of them the next time you photograph a sunset? Share your thoughts (and sunset photos) in the comments below!

The post 15 Sunset Photography Tips for Beautiful Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.



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