[Photography] Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction

The post Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

Photo editing can be pretty daunting. Open up any post-processing program, and you’ll be confronted by a slew of sliders, tools, and options (it’s enough to make anyone feel overwhelmed!).

Fortunately, basic photography editing isn’t nearly as hard as it seems. There are a few simple steps you can take to get great results right off the bat, which I share in this article.

Specifically, I offer a series of basic principles that you can use when editing any image. They’re quick, they’re easy, and they’ll remain useful, even as you level up your editing skills and dive into more advanced applications.

So if you’re ready to get started with photo editing for beginners, then let’s dive right in!

Note: My instructions below reference Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom Classic, but you can achieve the same results with any editing software, including Lightroom CC, ON1 Photo RAW, Capture One, and more.

1. Make sure you shoot in RAW

Technically, this guideline is about photographing, not editing – but it’s so important that I feel obligated to include it.

You see, cameras offer two main file formats: RAW and JPEG.

And while the JPEG format is nice for quick snapshots, if you want to do serious photo editing, then you need to be using RAW. It’ll give you far more flexibility; with a RAW file, you can dramatically alter exposure, white balance, color, and more. Whereas JPEG files only allow limited changes (and if you edit a JPEG file too heavily, you’ll end up with various unwanted artifacts, like banding).

One RAW drawback: It’s not an easily displayable format. Before you can send a RAW photo to friends, post it on social media, or post it on your website, you’ll need to use a RAW editor to convert it to a JPEG. Fortunately, programs like Adobe Camera Raw and Lightroom are designed specifically for RAW editing, so they make the conversion process quick and painless.

By the way, you can set the file format in your camera’s menu – and if you’re struggling, check your camera’s manual. These days, pretty much every camera offers a RAW file format (even smartphones!).

2. Start by correcting your exposure

When you bring up a RAW file in your editing program, you may find yourself wondering:

Where do I begin?

And while you can technically go in a hundred different directions, I’d really recommend you first look at your exposure, which is simply the overall brightness of your image.

You should see a simple Exposure slider in your post-processing program of choice:

But before you adjust it, ask yourself:

How does my photo look? Is it too bright? Is it too dark? Is it just right?

Generally, you want at least some details in the image shadows and some details in the image highlights. Here, a helpful tool is the histogram, which looks like this:

The histogram shows the distribution of tones in your image. Peaks toward the middle of the histogram represent midtones, whereas peaks toward the left represent shadows and peaks toward the right represent highlights. Note that peaks pressing up against either side of the histogram indicate clipped details, which you should generally avoid (so if you do see these clipped areas, it’s a sign that adjusting your exposure is probably necessary).

After looking at your image and analyzing the histogram, simply move your Exposure slider until you get the result that you want.

(If you’re not sure how to proceed, I’d recommend simply pushing the Exposure slider back and forth while watching your image. You’ll quickly get a sense of what looks good and what doesn’t!)

Note that basic photography editing programs offer additional exposure sliders, and these allow for precise adjustments. For instance, the Highlights slider lets you adjust only the bright areas of the image, the Shadows slider lets you adjust only the dark areas of the image, and so on. Feel free to experiment with these sliders, though always keep your eye on the histogram as you make changes!

3. Select the right white balance

White balance is designed to counteract any unwanted color casts in your photos, and once you’ve adjusted your exposure, it’s the next beginner photo editing step I’d recommend.

Now, your camera will have already applied a white balance of some sort, but it often needs adjustment. A perfect white balance shows the whites in your images exactly as they look in real life (though you can always tweak this later for artistic reasons). Compare the two photos below, one with a too-cool white balance and one with a too-warm white balance:

Do you see the difference? Neither of the photos is properly white balanced, which is where your photo editing WB adjustment comes in handy.

Simply look for the white balance section in your post-processing program:

Select the eyedropper tool, then click on an area of your image that should be a true white color. Your editor will automatically adjust the image for a perfect result (and if you don’t like the effect, or you simply want to adjust the white balance further for creative reasons, you can always move the Temp and Tint sliders until you get a nice look).

4. Boost the contrast (usually)

Contrast simply refers to the difference between the darks and lights in a photo, where intense darks and intense lights create high contrast, and softer darks and softer lights create low contrast.

RAW files tend to suffer from limited contrast, so it often makes sense to find your Contrast slider and increase it until you get a nice result:

Though you should always be careful not to take the contrast too far; otherwise, you’ll end up creating a garish, nightmarish effect.

By the way, if you’re after a softer, more ethereal look, you may want to decrease the Contrast slider. That’s what photographers often do when shooting in foggy conditions, where a low-contrast look enhances the mood.

(You also have the option to fine-tune the contrast with the Highlights, Shadows, Whites, and Blacks sliders. Have fun experimenting with different effects!)

5. Check the saturation

Saturation refers to the intensity of the colors in your image, which you can adjust via – you guessed it! – the Saturation slider:

By boosting the saturation, you can add pop to your image, and so I do often recommend you add a bit of saturation – but carefully, like seasoning to a meal. It’s easy to go too far, and then you’ll end up with an unpleasant result.

Some post-processing programs offer an alternative, called vibrance. This is like saturation, but tends to be more subtle. If saturation isn’t giving you the look you’re after, go ahead and try vibrance instead. Or start by trying vibrance, then move on to saturation. The order isn’t important; it’s all about experimenting to achieve the effect you want!

On occasion, you should even decrease the vibrance and/or saturation. For instance, if you want a moody image but the colors are just too bright and powerful, try reducing the saturation. Here, a little change can go a long way, and by subtly dropping the saturation, you can get an interesting cinematic effect.

6. Reduce noise and increase sharpening

Here’s the final step in this basic photo editing workflow.

Find the portion of your post-processing program that deals with detail:

And adjust both the sharpness levels and the noise levels.

Now, most RAW photos can do with a bit of sharpening. So go ahead and boost the sharpening amount (be sure to zoom in to 100% while you do this; that way, you can see the effects up close). If your image includes certain areas that you don’t want sharpened – a person’s face, for instance – consider boosting the Masking slider, which will ensure the sharpening only targets the more detailed areas of the shot.

Finally, while every image doesn’t need noise reduction, if you zoom to 100% and see little speckles, you’ll probably want to reduce both luminance noise and color noise. Note that too much noise reduction will decrease sharpness and look all-around bad, so don’t go overboard! Instead, boost the Luminance slider slightly, check the result, and then fine-tune. Do the same to the Color slider.

And you’re done! At this point, you can always dive into more advanced photo editing applications (e.g., adjust specific colors or work with the tone curve). Or you can export your image as a JPEG for sharing and viewing!

Photo editing for beginners: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you know how to do basic photo editing – and you’re ready to start enhancing your images!

Of course, I’ve only offered a starting point, but it really will take you far. And once you’ve mastered the basics, the sky is the limit!

Now over to you:

What part of photo editing do you struggle with? Do you have any basic photo editing tips of your own? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Photo Editing for Beginners: A Simple Introduction appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

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[Photography] Portrait Photography Equipment: 7 Items You Need in 2024

The post Portrait Photography Equipment: 7 Items You Need in 2024 appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Lily Sawyer.

Technically, you can take nice portraits with any camera and zero accessories – but if you want to level up your images, there are a few simple gear items you should buy.

That’s what this article is all about; I share the seven pieces of portrait photography equipment I highly recommend for beginners, and I give tips for how to use each item, too. By the time you’re done, you’ll have a clear list of portrait gear essentials (and you’ll be ready to nail your next portrait photoshoot, whether you’re photographing for fun or you’ve been hired by a client).

Let’s dive right in.

1. A standard zoom lens

Every portrait photographer should have a standard zoom lens in their bag.

What counts as a standard zoom lens? Basically, any lens that spans from around 24mm on the wide end to around 70mm on the long end, taking into account any crop factors. So on a full-frame camera, the classic 24-70mm lens is a standard zoom. On an APS-C camera, an 18-55mm kit lens can occupy this spot.

Note that some zooms do go wider and longer than this, but you should be careful before buying that 18-200mm lens; the more range offered by a lens, the more likely it is to have optical issues, and the bigger and heavier it gets.

What’s so great about standard zoom lenses for portraits?

For one, standard zooms are amazingly versatile. At 35-50mm, you can shoot full- and half-body images; at 70mm, you can go for headshots; and at 24-35mm, you can capture unique environmental portraits and even group shots. A standard zoom will save you from changing lenses every time you switch gears during a portrait session, and if you’re photographing families, you can do solo shots and group shots without a lens change, too.

Note that you do need to be careful when shooting portraits on the wide end – you’ll start to get distortion, especially when photographing at close range. I like 35mm for full-body shots, and 24mm is nice for more contextual images that show the subject surrounded by an expansive background. Just make sure to avoid getting too close to your subject when working with a wide focal length (unless you’re after the creative effects offered by perspective distortion, that is).

I do recommend you grab a zoom with the widest maximum aperture you can afford. An f/2.8 lens will allow you to capture beautiful background bokeh, whereas you’ll struggle to achieve the same effect at f/4, f/5.6, or f/6.3. (If you can’t afford an f/2.8 lens, that’s okay – you can still capture beautiful photos. You’ll just have to work a little harder!)

Recommended lenses

• Canon: 24-70mm f/2.8; 24-105mm f/4
• Nikon: 24-70mm f/2.8; Z 24-120mm f/4
• Sony: 24-70mm f/2.8; 24-105mm f/4
• Sigma: 24-70mm f/2.8 (for Canon and Nikon); 24-70mm f/2.8 (for Sony E-mount)

2. A telephoto zoom lens

Once you have your standard zoom, the next lens to consider is a telephoto zoom, such as a 70-200mm f/2.8.

Telephoto zooms are perfect for separating the subject from the background and creating stunning bokeh – in fact, I used a 70-200mm lens to capture this shot:

Notice how the subjects seem to pop off the blurry background? That’s thanks to a long focal length and a relatively wide aperture.

Telephoto zooms are also perfect for capturing headshots, as they allow you to photograph without getting uncomfortably close, thus reducing the likelihood of perspective distortion. And you can use them for creative portraits, too, by shooting through interesting leaves or flowers.

(Recommended lenses include the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8 II, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 III, and Nikon Z 70-200mm f/2.8.)

As with wide-angle zooms, wide-aperture telephoto lenses are better than narrow-aperture telephoto lenses. Unfortunately, wide-aperture telephoto lenses are often even more expensive than their wide-angle counterparts but you can always find 70-200mm f/4 lenses on the used market, especially if you buy older versions.

And a less-expensive alternative is a telephoto kit lens, like a 55-200mm f/4-5.6. Your optical quality will take a hit, but portraits often look good when a little bit soft, so that shouldn’t be a dealbreaker.

3. At least one fast prime

Fast prime lenses offer a single focal length, such as 50mm or 85mm. And they offer a stunningly wide aperture, such as f/1.8 or even f/1.2.

Happily, fast primes tend to be cheap (you can often grab an 85mm f/1.8 for a few hundred dollars, for instance), and they also tend to offer crystal-clear optics. They’re less flexible than zooms, of course, which is why I do recommend you carry the two lens types mentioned above – but primes certainly have their place.

When starting out, you don’t need to go crazy on the prime lenses. An 85mm lens is a good pick, as you can use it for full-body, half-body, and even headshots. Feel free to go for the f/1.8 version, as they offer beautiful background blur, plus you can easily handhold in low light (but if you’re very serious about your portraiture shooting and you require top-notch bokeh and/or incredible low-light prowess, consider the f/1.4 or f/1.2 versions, as well).

A 50mm f/1.8 is another, cheaper option, and the wider focal length helps when shooting in enclosed spaces (e.g., a small studio), so it’s worth considering, too.

By the way, you might be wondering:

When should I use my primes? And when should I use my zooms?

For fast-paced shoots (e.g., a family session with plenty of ground to cover), your zooms will keep the flow going and provide compositional versatility. But if you’re doing a slower session, start with your standard zoom, then feel free to swap it out for your prime once you have a few nice shots!

4. A tripod

If you photograph subjects in a studio – especially with strobes – a tripod may not be strictly necessary, as you’ll have complete control over the lighting and can boost the power as required. It’s still useful to have, though, as you can use it to hold your camera while you adjust lights, add props, and so on.

And if you do portraits in natural light, a tripod is hugely helpful; you can prevent any camera movement and capture far sharper shots in low light.

For studio portraits, you don’t need to invest in a sturdy-yet-portable tripod. As long as your tripod is stable, even if it’s super heavy, it’ll do the job. If you’re an outdoor portrait shooter, however, you’ll want to get a tripod that can hold your entire rig and can be transported from location to location without issue. I highly recommend a carbon fiber model, and while such tripods are more expensive, they’ll save you a lot of pain and frustration down the line. One solid option is the Peak Design Travel Tripod, which is very popular and we regularly include in our guide to photography gifts.

5. An artificial light source

If you capture portraits with natural light, you can technically ignore this section. However, I encourage all portrait photographers to learn to use artificial light; it’s a real game-changer and will make you a far more flexible shooter.

Thanks to artificial lighting, you can photograph at any time of the day under any lighting conditions, and you won’t be dependent on sunlight, the season, or the weather.

One piece of advice, though: Don’t use your on-camera flash. Instead, purchase an off-camera flash (i.e., a speedlight) to get started. And once you get more serious, consider grabbing some additional speedlights, some light stands, and even some studio strobes.

Will artificial lighting make your portrait photography kit less portable? Probably, though you can create a relatively portable lighting setup with a few light stands and speedlights. Bear in mind that you don’t need to use artificial lighting all the time; sometimes, you can shoot outside in good light, or you can work with a mixture of artificial and natural light.

I captured all of these images in the studio using carefully positioned artificial lighting:

6. Modifiers for your lights

If you do decide to go the artificial lighting route, then it’s absolutely crucial to pair your speedlights and studio strobes with modifiers.

What do modifiers do? They help direct the light, and they also change the quality. Most portrait photographers use modifiers to take the edge off their bare strobes (i.e., soften the effect), which is where modifiers such as softboxes will come in handy. And certain modifiers, such as snoots, will concentrate the light, while others, such as umbrellas, will throw it in every direction.

For more fashion-focused portraits, a beauty dish is worth considering. And I highly recommend you look into different modifier options before buying – there are stripboxes, octaboxes, snoots, scrims, and so much more.

That said, if you’re struggling to decide what modifier to get, I’d suggest a simple softbox of decent size. They’re pretty versatile, plus they’ll get you that nice, diffused, window-lit look. Over time, you can accumulate a set of modifiers for different occasions (and fortunately, modifiers are quite cheap, so you don’t need to worry about breaking the bank).

7. A 5-in-1 reflector

Whether you use natural or artificial lighting, reflectors are an absolutely essential piece of portrait photography equipment.

Reflectors let you subtly modify the light until your portraits look perfect. For instance, you can reflect light under your subject’s chin to get rid of dark shadows. You can reflect backlit sun for a beautiful look.

And because 5-in-1 reflectors come with several different colors, you can capture creative effects – such as a golden portrait at sunset, a silvery portrait around midday, and so on.

Finally, since reflectors are so portable, you can literally carry your 5-in-1 set everywhere. And if you’re a studio photographer, you’ll appreciate a reflector, too, as you can place it opposite your light sources to soften any shadows.

(Pro tip: Studio photographers, if you have space, it’s a good idea to have one large reflector propped up on a stand in your studio – here, lockable caster wheels come in handy!)

Essential portrait photography gear: final words

Now that you’ve finished this article, you’re ready to compile your portrait photography kit – and take some stunning shots of your own.

Don’t skimp on lenses, and don’t skimp on portrait accessories, either. Of course, you don’t need to get all of these items at once, but I do recommend you keep them in mind and acquire them as soon as possible.

Now over to you:

What portrait photography equipment from this list do you plan to buy? Do you have any additional equipment that you believe is essential? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Table of contents

Portrait Photography

• GENERAL
  • 15 Common Portrait Mistakes to Avoid
  • 10 Ways to Direct a Portrait Shoot like a Pro
  • How to Photograph People: 7 Tips for Photographers Who Never Photograph People
  • 10 Crucial Things You Need to Think About for Portrait Photography
  • 5 Portrait Photography Rules You Should Probably Ignore
  • Five Budget Portrait Photography Hacks to Save You Money
  • 8 Lessons Learned from My First Attempt at Portrait Photography
  • How Self-Portraiture Makes You a Better Photographer
  • The Photo Critique: Portrait Edition
  • 10 Shots, 10 Portraits, 1 Focal Length: Take this Photography Challenge
  • How I Got The Shot: Portrait Style
• PREPARATION
  • Tips for Preparing for a Portrait Session
  • 8 Tips to Help Make People Comfortable for Their Portrait Session
  • Clothing for Portraits – How to Tell your Subjects What to Wear
  • How to Plan a Successful Sunset Portrait Session
  • 5 Secrets for Finding Great Indoor Photoshoot Locations
  • 10 Christmas Portrait Locations (with Bonus Lighting and Composition Tips)
  • How to Build a Bench Prop for Great Portrait Photos
  • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 1 – Preparation and Rapport
  • How to Scout for Portrait Shooting Locations
  • The Importance of Location for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Choose Urban Landscapes for Portrait Photography
• SETTINGS
  • The Best Camera Settings for Portrait Photography
  • How to Achieve Blurred Backgrounds in Portrait Photography
  • How to Bypass the Portrait Mode on Your Digital Camera and Get Great Portraits
  • Understanding the Focus and Recompose Technique
  • Overcoming Depth of Field Problems in Portraits
  • 9 Ways to Ensure You Get Sharp Images When Photographing People
  • Stunning Portraits: Manipulating White Balance
  • Shooting for HDR Portraiture
  • How [Not] to Take a Self Timer Portrait
  • How Focal Length Changes the Shape of the Face in Portraiture
• LIGHTING
  • 5 Tips How to Set Up a Home Studio for Dramatic Portraits
  • Simple Portrait Setups You Can Create on a Tight Budget
  • How to Eliminate Reflections in Glasses in Portraits
  • Portrait Photography: How to Photograph People in the Harsh Midday Sun
  • 4 Ways to Shoot Portraits in the Middle of the Day
  • 6 Portrait Lighting Patterns Every Photographer Should Know
  • 3 Lighting Setups for Photographing Headshots
  • 6 Ways of Using Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • How to Create and Shoot Night Portraits
  • How to Make Beautiful Portraits Using Flash and High-Speed Sync
  • How to Make a Low Key Portrait (Step by Step)
  • Fill Flash Photography: How to Get Beautiful Portraits (Even in Bad Light)
  • A Lighting Ratios Guide: How to Make (or Break) Your Portraits
  • How to Mix Ambient Light and Fill-Flash for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Photograph Fantastic Portraits with One Flash
  • DIY How to Build and Use a Reflector to Take Better Portraits
  • Understanding Light for Better Portrait Photography
  • Tips for Doing Natural Light Headshots and Portraits
  • 3 Reasons to do Headshots with Natural Light
  • A Beginners Guide to Taking Portraits of Elderly Clients: Part 2 – Lighting and Posing
  • How to Create Stunning Wide-Angle Portraits (Using an Off-Camera Flash)
  • Tips for Making the Most of Morning Light for Portraits
  • 5 Ways to Use a Beauty Dish Light for Portraits
  • Beginners Tips for Sunrise Portraits : Part I
  • Getting to Grips with Fill Light in Portrait Photography
  • How to Use Flash for Night Portraits
  • What Size Beauty Dish is Right For Your Portrait Photography?
  • How to Create Catch Lights in Your Natural Light Portraits
  • Tips for Using Golden Hour Light for Portraits
  • Side-by-side comparison between reflectors and diffusers for portraits
  • 6 Tips for Taking Better Natural Light Classic Portraits
  • How to Use a Small Softbox With Your Flash to Transform Your Portraits
  • Simple Tips for Positioning Your Portrait Subject to Leverage Natural Light
  • The Importance of Shadows in Portrait Photography
  • So You Have No Model? Here are Ways to Practice Your Portrait Lighting With Toys
  • How to use Colored Gels to Create Unique and Creative Portraits
  • 3 Steps to Professional Looking Headshots Using One Flash
  • How to Use Two LED Lights to Achieve Moody Portraits
  • Made in the Shade – Why Taking Portraits in the Shade Can be Ideal
  • What Is Good Light? (And How to Use It for Beautiful Portraits)
  • How to do Accent Lighting for Portraits
  • Tips For Great Indoor Portraits Using Natural Light
  • 5 Reasons for Doing Natural Light Portraits
  • Review of the Westcott Eyelighter for Headshots and Portraits
  • How to Use Angle of Light in People Photography for Added Punch
  • High Speed Sync Versus a Neutral Density Filter to Overcome Bright Sunlight in Portraits
  • 5 Creative Portrait Lighting Tricks Using Only Phone Light
  • How to Use Off-camera Flash to Fix Lighting Problems for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Create Awesome Portrait Lighting with a Paper Bag an Elastic Band and a Chocolate Donut
  • Tips for Using Speedlights to Create the Right Lighting for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to use a Gobo to add Depth to Your Portraits with Subtractive Lighting
  • How to Use Hard Lighting to Create a Dramatic Portrait
  • Portrait Comparison – Flash Versus Natural Light
  • Stealing Light – Using Street Lights for Portraits
  • Five Places for Perfect Natural Portrait Lighting
  • How to See the Light for Portraits: A Quick Tip for Beginners
  • Shooting with Available Light – Lifestyle Portraiture
  • 5 Ways to Light Your Christmas Tree Portraits This Festive Season
  • A Simple Lighting Technique for Couples Portraits
  • Awash In Light: High Key Portraiture
  • A Portrait Lighting Project for a Rainy Day
  • Simple Portrait Lighting Setup: Gorgeous Result
  • How to Achieve Great Portraits with Window Light
  • A Simple Exercise on Working with Natural Light in Portraits
  • Small Flash Portraits on Location with Adorama TV
  • Portraits on an Overcast Day? Use a Reflector
  • Tips for Using Flash for Beach Portraits
  • How to Find and Use Natural Reflectors for Portraits
  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits with Shadow Photography [video]
  • Tips for Portrait Photography in Overcast Weather [video]
  • How to Photograph People Outdoors Without Using a Reflector
  • How To Use an Outdoor Studio for Natural Portraits
• POSING
  • Female Poses: 21 Posing Ideas to Get You Started Photographing Women
  • Glamour Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Men
  • Good Crop Bad Crop – How to Crop Portraits
  • How to Pose and Angle the Body for Better Portraits
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Groups of People
  • Posing Guide: 21 Sample Poses to Get You Started with Photographing Couples
  • Your Guide to the Best Poses for Engagement Photos
  • How to do Gentle Posing: A Collection of Prompts to Get You Started
  • Tips for Posing Large Families and Groups
  • How to Pose People for Headshots
  • Tips for Posing People in Outdoor Portraits
  • 20 Tips for Getting People to Smile in Photos
  • How to Avoid Fake Smiles in Your People Photography
  • Tips for Posing Muscular Female Body Types
  • Your Posing Guide for Maternity Sessions
  • Handiwork: How to Pose Hands
  • Your Guide to Posing Bands in Photography
  • Posing Tip for Portraits – Which Way Should Your Subject Lean?
  • Posing Tips – Waistlines, Thighs and Bustlines
  • 3 Posing Tips for Young Siblings
  • What Everybody Ought to Know About Posing for Portraits
  • Poser: Achieve Perfect Portrait Expression
  • Capturing Better Portraits Between Poses
  • A Posing Technique from A Girl With a Pearl Earring
  • Tips for Posing Men
• COMPOSITION
  • 6 Types of Portrait Backgrounds for Creative Images
  • 6 Tips for Perfect Composition in Portrait Photography
  • How to Find Great Backgrounds for Outdoor Portraits
  • How to Make Colors Pop in Your Portraits – Without Using Photoshop
  • How to Use Foreground Framing to Improve Your Portrait Photography
  • How to Use Negative Space in People Photography
  • 3 Simple Ways to Use Framing and Layering in Portraits
  • Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?
  • Portrait Tip: Don't Fill the Frame
  • How to Use Portrait Angles More Creatively: A Visual Guide
  • How to Use Facial View and Camera Angle to take Flattering Portraits
• GEAR
  • Comparing a 50mm Versus 85mm Lens for Photographing People
  • Comparing a 24mm Versus 50mm Lens for Photographing People
  • 3 Tips for Taking Portraits with a Kit Lens
  • Best Fujifilm X-Series Kit for Urban Portraits
  • 3 Ways to Get Killer Portraits Using a Tripod
  • Photographing Portraits with Classic Lenses (includes Example Images)
  • Portrait Photographers: Do You Really Need a 70-200mm Lens?
  • Essential Portrait Photography Gear You Need When Starting Out

    • 1. A standard zoom lens
    • 2. A telephoto zoom lens
    • 3. At least one fast prime
    • 4. A tripod
    • 5. An artificial light source
    • 6. Modifiers for your lights
    • 7. A 5-in-1 reflector
    • Essential portrait photography gear: final words
    • 1. A standard zoom lens
    • 2. A telephoto zoom lens
    • 3. At least one fast prime
    • 4. A tripod
    • 5. An artificial light source
    • 6. Modifiers for your lights
    • 7. A 5-in-1 reflector
    • Essential portrait photography gear: final words
  • Portable Portrait Studio in a Bag: Now You Can Take Portraits While on the Road
  • How to Choose the Perfect Portrait Lens
  • Which 50mm Lens is Best for Portraits?
• ADVANCED GUIDES
  • 13 Tips for Improving Outdoor Portraits
  • Create Beautiful Indoor Portraits Without Flash (NSFW)
  • 10 Tips for Photographing Great Headshots
  • 3 Simple Ways to Create Stunning Eyes in Your Portrait Photography
  • 11 Tips for Photographing High School Senior Portraits
  • Tips for Doing Fall Portraits
  • 6 Tips for Photographing Large People
  • 7 Tips for Black and White Portrait Photography
  • How to Create Environmental Portraits (Tips and Examples)
  • Capturing Unenthusiastic Teens: Forget the Perfect Pose and Get Photos You Truly Love
  • Tips for Taking the Torture out of Extended Family Portrait Sessions
  • Self Portrait Photography Tips
  • What the Mona Lisa Can Teach You About Taking Great Portraits
  • 5 Tips for Musician Portraits (So You Can Hit All the Right Notes)
  • 5 Tips to Help You Take More Natural Looking Portraits
  • 15 Tips for More Powerful Portraits
  • How to Create Dramatic Portraits in Your Garage
  • 9 Tips that Make Couples Happy During a Portrait Session
  • 5 Tips for Taking Better Portraits in Nature
  • Snow Portrait: Behind the Scenes
  • Tips for Creating Dance Portraits
  • How to Take Better Beach Portraits at Any Time of Day
  • The Introverts Guide to Photographing People
  • 6 Ways to Take a Candid Portrait of Somebody You Know
  • 3 Body Language Hacks to Improve Your Portrait Photography
  • 5 More Tips for Making Better Black and White Portraits
  • Tips for Planning and Capturing a Creative Portrait
  • 5 Tips for Creating Romantic Portraits of Couples
  • 10 Tips to Create Emotive Portraits
  • 7 Tips for Photographing a Bridal Portrait Session
  • 3 Lessons I Learned by Doing a Self-Portrait Project
  • The Ultimate Guide to Photographing People for the Shy Photographer
  • Tips for Getting Yourself to Relax as a Photographer and Have More Successful Portrait Sessions
  • Tips for Taking More Natural Engagement Portraits
  • 6 Tips for Better Portraits on Location
  • 7 Ways to Take Advantage of Autumn in Your Portrait Photography
  • 7 Tips and Etiquette for Taking Portraits in Public
  • How to Make a Unique Portrait in the City at Night
  • 3 Tips for Creating Outstanding Portraits, Inspired by the work of Dutch Artist Van Gogh
  • 5 Keys to Taking Beautiful Maternity Portraits
  • Photographing People: To do Styled Portraits or Not?
  • 7 Steps to Capturing Truth in Your Portraiture
  • Engagement Portrait Shoots: 7 Professional Tips to take your Engagement Shoots to the Next Level
  • Personalities and Portraits – and Getting Them to Mix
  • 3 Reasons to Have Your Own Portrait Taken
  • 5 Tips for Photographing Portfolio-Worthy Costume Portraits
  • 3 Critical People Skills Portrait Photographers Need
  • The Essence of Masculinity – Portraits of Men
  • 5 Corporate-Style Portrait Techniques
  • 5 Tips for Doing Portrait Photography in Busy Locations
  • Tips for Great Beach Sunset Portraits
• CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
  • How to Create Portraits with a Black Background
  • How Using Props in Portraits Can Make Your Photos More Interesting
  • How to Take Unique Crystal Ball Portraits
  • How to Create a Hollywood Film Noir Portrait
  • How to Create this “Fight Club” Inspired Portrait using One Light
  • Dragging the Shutter for Creative Portraits
  • 5 Secrets for Creating Perfect Silhouette Portrait Photography
  • How to do Tilt-Shift Portraits
  • Copper, Prisms, and Orbs, Oh My! – 3 Creative Techniques for People Photography
  • Portrait Tip: Add Interest and Movement into Your Shots with Wind
  • Glitter Portrait: How I Took It
  • How to Create a Unique Bokeh Portrait for Under $10
  • 5 Ways to Use a Piece of Glass for Unique Portraits [video]
  • Room with a View: How to Create this Window with Blinds Portrait Anywhere
  • 7 Steps to Perfect White Portrait Backgrounds in the Studio
  • How to Make Unique Portraits Using Light Painting
• POST-PROCESSING
  • 11 Steps for Basic Portrait Editing in Lightroom – A Beginner’s Guide
  • Five Common Portrait Retouching Mistakes to Avoid
  • How to Create a Dramatic Cinematic Style Portrait Using Photoshop Color Grading
  • How to Edit Corporate Headshots in Lightroom
  • How to Create a Dark and Moody Rembrandt-Style Portrait In Lightroom
  • How to Retouch a Portrait with the Adjustment Brush in Lightroom
  • Photoshop: Red Eye Fix for Difficult Cases in People and Pets
  • 3 Steps to Photoshop Retouching for Natural Looking Portraits
  • How to do Frequency Separation Portrait Retouching in Photoshop
  • Basic Portrait Post-Processing Workflow Tips to Help You Save Time and Stay Organized
  • How to Add a Grunge Effect to Your Portraits Using Lightroom
  • How to Create Twinkle Lights for Christmas Tree Portraits in Photoshop
  • How to Enhance Portraits Using Gray Layers to Dodge and Burn in Photoshop
  • How to Blur the Background of a Portrait Using the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Photoshop
  • How to Use Photoshop Blending Modes for Fine Art Portraiture
  • Stylized Techniques for Editing Portraits Using Lightroom
  • How to Make a Bubble Portrait using Photoshop CS3
  • Creating a Black and White High Contrast Portrait Edit in Lightroom
  • How to Create a “Soft Portrait” Preset in Lightroom 4
  • Basic Photoshop Tutorial – How to Add Creative Overlays to Your Portraits
  • 3 Essential Photoshop Tools for New Portrait Photographers
  • How to Make Creative Lightroom Develop Presets for Portraits
  • 5 Reasons to Use Lightroom for Portrait Retouching
  • Advanced Portrait Retouch on a Male Subject in Lightroom 4 – Part 1 of 3
  • 3 Ways to Make Selective Color Portraits Using Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro 2
  • Correcting For Under Exposure and Boosting Dynamic Range with an Environmental Portrait in Lightroom 4
  • How to do Portrait Retouching With Luminar
  • Tips for Portrait Processing with ON1 Photo RAW 2018.5
  • 5 Tips to Cut Your Portrait Editing Time in Half
• BUSINESS
  • Portrait Consultations: Two Questions That Make A Big Difference
  • How to Shoot a Self Portrait to Support your Brand Identity
• INSPIRATION
  • 5 Examples of Beautiful Simple Portraits
  • DISCUSS: When you Photograph People in Black and White, you Photograph their Souls
  • 21 Inspirational Natural Light Portraits
  • 24 Photos of Perfectly Posed Portraits
  • 19 More Creative Mirror Self Portraits
  • 18 Stunning Self Portraits
  • Interview with Fine Art Portrait Photographer Bill Gekas
  • 11 Influential Portrait Photographers you Need to Know
  • Black and White Portraits a Set of Images to Admire
  • Nadav Kander on Portrait Photography [VIDEO]
  • 21 Spooky Portraits
  • Inspiring Portraits of Women – a Collection of Images
  • 12.5 Years of Daily Self Portraits [VIDEO]
  • Interview with Self Portrait and 365 Photographer – Anna Gay
  • Triptych Portrait Series
  • 8 Striking Portraits from Photograph Einar Erici [Shot in 1930]
  • An Interview With Underwater Portrait Photographer Sacha Blue
  • Masters of Photography – Yousuf Karsh Portrait Photographer
  • 21 Fun Images of People Laughing
• RESOURCES
  • Portrait Photography: Secrets of Posing & Lighting [Book Review]
  • The Luminous Portrait: Book Review
  • The Portrait Photography Course by Mark Jenkinson – Book Review
  • The Perfect Portrait Guide – How to Photograph People – Book Review
  • Improve Your Portraits with these Courses from Ed Verosky
  • People Photography and Portraits: Best Resources Toolbox

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