Oct 31, 2013

[Photography] Bird Photography Near Feeders

A Guest Post by Lithuanian Photographer Tadas Naujokaitis.



Bird photography is quite difficult because birds don’t do what a photographer wants. Moreover, it’s often hard to get close to them. And when you have more experience in photography, you realize that it’s even more difficult to take a good bird photo, because you need a good background and a beautiful environment. However, there are a number of ways you can improve the bird photos you take. In this article, I’ll explain some tips on photographing birds near feeders.


The place


The place is the first thing you need to consider. You need to decide what bird species you want to photograph, and work out where you’ll find that kind of bird.


Depending on your location, even your backyard can be a great place for a feeder to attract the species you’re after. I wanted to photograph forest birds, so I chose a local forest. I searched for the exact place in that forest quite a long time—mainly, I needed to consider the background, and the amount and direction of the light that reached the feeder.


Ideally, your location will have a smooth background (when I search for a background, I use manual focusing at ~4m and take many test shots) and enough light. I’ve found it’s best when the sunshine reaches the feeder in early morning. Also, be sure to ask for a permission to feed and photograph the birds if you are not the land owner.


The hide


Once you’ve worked out the exact place where you’ll put your feeder, you need a hide. I recommend using a permanent hide, because birds will understand it as a part of environment, and you won’t need to set it up and then wait while the birds get used to it each time you decide to take photos.


You can build the hide from whatever you like—even an old door can be very useful. I built my hide from the branches I found in the area. It required a bit more work, and it isn’t waterproof, but I didn’t want to use expensive materials because there is always the risk that your hide can be damaged by other people if you don’t build it in your own backyard.


One more thing to note: the hide should be large enough for you to stay in it comfortably, because you may spend many hours in it. This is how my hide looks:


2-birdphotography.jpg


The feeder and food


The construction of the feeder itself isn’t very important. I prefer the platform feeder because, if you like, you can put many decorations on it when you’re photographing birds.


However, the food is very important. I recommend using sunflower seeds, peanuts, and suet cakes. Other similar products should be fine, too, but be sure the food you choose won’t harm the birds you’re photographing. The food must not be tainted, salted or smoked. And if you feed birds in the colder seasons of the year, you must feed them constantly until the weather becomes warm and the snow melts—otherwise many birds can die. Be prepared to spend some money on food. As am example, you may need even more than 100kg of sunflower seeds for one winter if you use them as the main food.


3-birdphotography.jpg


The perch


If the birds have already found the food, you can start shooting. Find a beautiful perch, twig or rotten stump and put them on the feeder or near it. If you’d like, find some decorations to add to the scene—berries, for example. They will make the composition of your shots more lively.


Be creative: try using various perches, or put the food in such place that you don’t see it though the lens. You can use holes in the feeder, put the food on the side of the perch that isn’t visible, or simply place it below the perch on which the bird will sit.


The food can also be put in such location that the perch becomes an intermediate stop for birds moving towards the food. Often it’s difficult to photograph the bird without food in its bill. If this is your goal, try to hide some food so the bird will need to search for it. You can also take some pictures of birds without food, when the food has just run out, but you won’t have much time to shoot before the birds realise that there’s no more food and fly away.


My recommendation, however, is to always have plenty of food in the feeder, which will attract more visitors to the feeder, and be ready to quickly take a photo before the birds take any food.


4-birdphotography.jpg


Equipment


You should get good results with any DSLR and a 100-200mm lens. However, with longer focal length, you’ll get a better background. A tripod is usually necessary, too.


5-birdphotography.jpg


Camera settings


Exposure: 1/50-1/500 or even shorter, depending on how fast the birds are (faster birds need a shorter exposure), and how much light you have (if there isn’t much light, you may need to set longer exposure if you don’t want to use high ISO settings).


Aperture: if you don’t have enough light and want the best possible background, select the largest aperture (the smallest number). If it’s difficult to get the whole bird in focus, close the aperture a bit.


ISO: use as low an ISO speed as possible. However, if you don’t have much light, it’s better to set ISO 800 and get sharp pictures than ISO 200 and take blurry ones.


The light


The best time for photography is morning or evening because the light is soft and has a pleasant hue, shadows are not so distinct, and it’s easier to get details from very bright and dark areas. Overcast days are better than sunny ones because the shadows are less distinct. However the midday sun can be your friend if its rays are diffused by trees.


6-birdphotography.jpg


Composition


It’s usual to leave some space in the direction in which the bird is looking or flying. Try using the rule of thirds in your composition. Avoid any distracting elements and take the picture at the bird’s eye level. Don’t always try to fill the frame with a bird: remember that birds are very fast creatures, so they need space. Even in the photo!


7-birdphotography.jpg


Conclusion


The best part of bird photography near feeders for me is that I have a great time. It’s usually hard to believe that 10 hours have already passed – I always wish I had more time. I hope you will have a good time photographing birds near feeders, too.


8-birdphotography.jpg


About the Author:


Tadas Naujokaitis lives in Lithuania. See more of his work at www.tadasnaujokaitis.tk and connect with him on his Facebook page.



Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.



Check out our more Photography Tips at Photography Tips for Beginners, Portrait Photography Tips and Wedding Photography Tips.


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Oct 30, 2013

[Photography] The Winners of the NYIP Photography Courses Are…

NewImageA BIG thank you to everyone who entered our recent competition to win one of five photography courses from our friends at NYIP.


The response was terrific with over 400 entries. In fact, it was so great that the team at NYIP decided to offer a special $100 discount off any of the courses (details below).


But first – here are the 5 winners of the competition:



A Message from NYIP (and a $100 discount)


Wow! Here at NYIP we were thrilled with the quality and the quantity of the responses we received for this contest. As always, the DPS community came out in full force looking for quality photography education. Unfortunately, not everyone can win. But for those of you who did not win, we’d like to extend a special discount on the NYIP course of your choice. ??The discount code ‘AD1′ can be used when you enroll online or by phone to save $100 off either payment plan on any of NYIP’s courses. Simply get started by visiting www.nyip.edu. *Offer ends November 30, 2013.


Thanks again for all the wonderful submissions,


The NYIP Team”


Winners will be emailed with details of how to collect their prize by the team at NYIP.


Thanks again to everyone for entering and to NYIP for sponsoring this competition.



Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.



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[Photography] Canon EOS 70D Review

Canon EOS 70D Review.jpg


It seems such a long time since this camera’s predecessor — Canon EOS 60D — was launched. And it was. About this time, three years ago and lots has happened in the interval. MILCs are here for one thing but there are still plenty of DSLR-coholics craving for an optical view of the world.


I have to admit I am prone to slaver a little when I look through an optical viewfinder. Just like the old days!


The camera was reviewed with the Canon EF-S f3.5/18-35mm IS STM lens. The camera, in Canon’s lineup, is located above the EOS 700D.


Canon EOS 70D Review top.jpg


Canon EOS 70D Review back.jpg


Canon EOS 70D Features



  • This is the first DSLR camera to have all-new Dual Pixel CMOS AF technology. Two photodiodes are mounted within each pixel, both of which can be read independently to achieve autofocus or together for image capture.

  • The AF system for stills has 19 cross-type AF points spread across the frame.

  • Effective pixel count is 20.2 megapixels on the APS-C sized CMOS sensor.

  • A 14-bit DIGIC 5+ processor is used.

  • The 70D captures full res images at up to 7 fps for a continuous burst of up to 65 JPEG or 16 RAW images.

  • HDR from three images.

  • Creative filters (grainy, soft focus, fish eye effect etc).

  • ISO range is 100-12800 (expandable to 25600).

  • The 7.7cm LCD touch screen has a 1,040,000 dot resolution.

  • With Wi-Fi connectivity, users can connect to the EOS Remote app as well as remotely use Live View mode.

  • External mic input.


  • The camera captures a maximum image size of 5472×3648 pixels or 46x31cm as a print.





Movies can be shot in MPEG4 up to Full HD at 1920×1080 pixels resolution.


Yes, you can shoot stills in the middle of a video recording but the video is briefly interrupted.


A neat feature is video snapshot: each short clip can be set to last two, four or eight seconds; you can add each clip to the tally as you shoot so you end up with a bunch of short videos, neatly edited together. To be honest, I haven’t found a place for the feature in my style of video making … but give it time!


Handling


The camera gains (or loses!) from the small sensor in that the whole package is less daunting in size and weight than a full frame DSLR.


The speed grip at right is substantial so your right fingers can grasp it securely. Left hand holds left of the body and you could maybe fire away with a single (right) handed grasp — but you’d need practice.


Controls


Tucked away, behind the lens, is the button which kicks up the flash cell; external wireless flash can also be hooked up.


Top: against the usual approach, the power lever is sited to the extreme left, right next to the ten position mode dial. This has a useful locking button so your setting won’t shift.


Canon EOS 70D Review Scene Filters.jpg


On it are positions for auto, PASM plus Bulb, flash off, special scenes (portrait, landscape etc), creative auto (aperture control, single/continuous shooting and flash options) and a custom setting.


Just beneath this dial are the menu and info buttons.


Top, off to the right: dioptric control for the optical finder, status screen (plus its light button) topped by buttons for AF, single/continuous shooting, ISO and metering mode. A little forward is the command dial, aperture/shutter speed button … and of course, the shutter button.


If you’re looking for some way to preview depth of field, then head to the lens barrel and a tiny button in its base.


Rear: off to the right you’ll find a button and lever which takes you from the optical finder view to the Live one, then gives you the option of shooting stills or video. Quite a good arrangement.


Further right is an AF start/stop button, one for auto exposure lock and another for selection of the AF point or zone.


Lower down is the Quick control button that takes you rapidly into such areas as single/continuous shooting, metering modes, image size etc.


If you think the 70D provides multiple access points to camera controls … you’re right!


Canon EOS 70D Review Q button.jpg


Beneath the Q button is replay, trash and the multi controller (plus SET button). Lower still is the lock button which can prevent the main dial, Quick control dial and multi controller from shifting and an accidental alteration of a setting.


If you’re in the habit of passing your camera around to others for a shoot, this will lock in your carefully chosen settings!


Canon EOS 70D Review Tree.JPG


Canon EOS 70D Review Wedding girls 1.JPG


Jacaranda and house 1.JPG


Canon EOS 70D Review Chile tapestry 1.JPG


Get Going


Possibly a measure of this control layout is how easy the camera is to pick up and get going. Or not!


On test sessions my first chore is to shoot the ISO tests. Dealing with the camera’s controls fresh out of the box is usually a good indicator of camera user friendliness.


OK. Go to the mode dial. Set it to aperture priority. Next, select a small, focus friendly aperture. Move to the front command dial; there is no rear dial, so Canon calls this one the ‘main dial’. Wind it down to f16. Cool.


Next, I want to set the ISO number. Move to the tiny button on top, marked ‘ISO’.


I want to use manual focus, so I next headed for the lens barrel and switch it from AF to MF. Nearby also is the stabiliser on/off switch.


Easy peasy. And I was up and away!


The menu arrangement is comprehensive and easy to follow — but it is extensive! I suggest you become familiar with it as there are many options and you could easily find yourself bamboozled.


Canon EOS 70D ISO Tests


Canon ESO 70D ISO 100.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 400.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 800.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 1600.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 3200.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 6400.JPG


Canon ESO 70D ISO 12800.JPG


Noise only became noticeable at ISO 6400. Useable.


There was a substantial increase in noise at ISO 12800. A little dodgy.


Canon EOS 70D Review Verdict


Quality: I was quite blown away by the quality of this camera’s images; not only were they super sharp but the coloration was dead accurate.


The focus was super fast and super accurate. The stabiliser works well, esp in video shooting. Note: three handheld scenes in the video clip were shot without the stabiliser in action.


So I reshot one more video shot (the wall and gate) with the stabiliser in play. Much better!


Why you’d buy the Canon EOS 70D: a DSLR that won’t break your bank or bend your shoulders.


Why you wouldn’t buy the Canon EOS 70D: check your expertise level!


One of the best new models I have seen for a while.


Canon EOS 70D Specifications


Image Sensor: 20.2 million effective pixels.

Metering: 63 zone, centre-weighted, spot, partial.

Lens Mount: Canon EF/EF-S.

Exposure Modes: Program AE, shutter and aperture priority, manual.

Effective Sensor Size: APS-C 22.3x15mm CMOS.

35 SLR Lens Factor: 1.6x.

Shutter Speed (stills): 30 to 1/8000 second and Bulb; X-sync at 1/250 sec.

Continuous Shooting: 7 fps.

Memory: SD/SDHC/SDXC cards.

Image Sizes (pixels): Stills: 5472×3648 to 480×480.

Movies: 1920×1080 (30p/25p/24p), 1280×720 (60p/50p), 640×480 (30p/25p).

Viewfinder: Optical plus 7.7cm LCD screen (1,040,000 pixels).

File Formats: JPEG, 14-bit RAW, JPEG+RAW, MPEG4.

Colour Space: sRGB, Adobe RGB.

ISO Sensitivity: Auto, 100 to 12800, 25,600 (expanded).

Interface: USB 2.0, HDMI mini, WiFi, mic, remote.

Power: Rechargeable lithium ion battery, DC input.

Dimensions: 139x104x79 WHDmm.

Weight: 855 g (inc battery).

Price: Get a price on the Canon EOS 70D (body only) or Canon EOS 70D with EF-S 18-135mm F3.5-5.6 IS STM lens.



Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.



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[Photography] The Hidden Secrets of Lightroom 5’s Loupe View

Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Last week I showed you how to use Lightroom’s Grid View. Once you have customised the Grid View to suit your needs, it is time to move on to the Loupe View. Getting there is easy. Just press the letter ‘E’ on your keyboard. This will take you to the Loupe View from anywhere in Lightroom. Alternatively, if you are in the Grid View, you can press the space bar.


On the surface, Loupe View looks simple. But there are a few things I’d like to show you that you may not be aware of. They are the ‘hidden features’ of Lightroom’s Loupe View, and will help you when you view your images, and assess their potential for creative processing.


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


This is what the Loupe View looks like, with all four side panels removed (use the Shift+Tab keyboard shortcut to hide them from view).


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


The Loupe View is divided into two parts. The Content window (yellow) occupies the main part of the screen. The selected photo is displayed here.


The Toolbar (red) lies along the bottom. Press ‘T’ to reveal it if it isn’t there. The same key hides the Toolbar if you press it again.


The main difference between the Loupe View and the Grid View is that you can only view one image at a time in the Loupe View.


The hidden features


Of course, these features are not really hidden. But if you are not aware of them they may just as well be. They are all useful, so it’s worth taking a few minutes to learn how to use them.


Library view options


When you press the ‘I’ key on the keyboard Lightroom displays some information about the photo you are looking at in Loupe View. Press the ‘I’ key again and the information changes. Finally, press it once more to hide the information:


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


The first information overlay displays the filename, the time and date the photo was taken, and the image size (in pixels).


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


The second overlay shows the filename, the exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) and the focal length and lens used. This is handy for checking the camera settings when you are viewing your images.


Here’s the hidden feature: Did you know you can customise the information overlays to display the information that you want them to? Go to View > View Options to bring up the Library View Options window. Here you can tell Lightroom which information to display in each information overlay:


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Mirror image mode


Wondering how your photo would look if it was back to front? Just go to View > Enable Mirror Image Mode to see:


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Grids and guides


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


To reveal the grids and guides, tick the Show Grid box in the Toolbar. Use the slider to set the size of the squares. If you hold the Cmd key down (PC owners should use the Ctrl key) you can also alter the size of the grid and the opacity of the lines by mousing over the Size and Opacity settings displayed at the top:


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Note: If you don’t see the Show Grid box, click on the white arrow on the right hand side of the Toolbar and select Grid Overlay from the menu. Lightroom removes any unticked options in this menu from the Toolbar.


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Next, go to View > Loupe Overlay and select the Guides option. This turns the central horizontal and vertical grid lines into guides that you can move by holding down the Cmd (Mac) or Ctrl (PC) keys. They come in useful for checking things like the straightness of horizons and buildings.


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


Untick the Show Grid box to see the Guides by themselves.


The Loupe Overlay


The final hidden feature is something that is more likely to interest professional photographers than hobbyists. But it comes in handy as a creative exercise if you have any interest in submitting images to stock libraries or to magazines.


When buying images for editorial use, magazines often look for photos with empty space where they can lay out headings or text. The Loupe Overlay feature lets you display an overlay containing text over the top of your image so you can see whether the composition of your image provides enough space. While pros can obtain an official file from their client, there’s nothing to stop you making up your own.


Go to View > Loupe Overlay > Layout Image. Navigate to the folder containing your overlay and open it. The file must be saved as a PNG file, which supports transparency.


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


In this example, you can see that the portrait isn’t composed in a way that works with the sample text. It would have been better if the model was further to the right in the frame.


Mastering Lightroom Book One: The Library Module


Lightroom 5 Loupe View


My latest ebook Mastering Lightroom Book One: The Library Module is a complete guide to using Lightroom’s Library module to import, organise and search your photo files. You’ll learn how to tame your growing photo collection using Collections and Collection Sets, and how to save time so you can spend more time in the Develop module processing your photos.



Post originally from: Digital Photography Tips.



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