Sep 30, 2023

[Photography] A Guide to Smartphone Landscape Photography (+ 13 Tips)

The post A Guide to Smartphone Landscape Photography (+ 13 Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.

A guide to smartphone landscape photography

Gone are the days when you needed a high-end camera to capture breathtaking landscapes. With today’s smartphones, capturing beautiful vistas is literally at your fingertips. You can take out your phone and snap away, knowing that you’re creating images worth sharing.

Sure, smartphone cameras have their drawbacks, such as smaller sensors and reduced control – but even with these disadvantages, mobile phones are more than capable of capturing breathtaking scenic shots. I often use my phone when out shooting, and I recommend you do the same.

And at the end of the day, as the saying goes: the best camera is the one you have with you. The high-end DSLR or mirrorless camera you might own is totally worthless if it’s sitting in your car, your hotel room, or your home when a great photo opportunity presents itself.

Ready to learn how to make stunning smartphone landscape photography? Let’s dive right in.

13 tips for stunning smartphone landscape photography

Landscape photography – whether captured with a smartphone or a flagship mirrorless camera – requires patience, careful choice of settings, observance of the light, and more. In this section, I share a handful of tips and tricks to improve your results.

1. Make photographs, don’t take snapshots

trees and windmill at sunset
I’ve photographed this windmill before, so upon witnessing the sunset while driving home, I raced for the spot with the only camera I had with me: my smartphone.

To be a better photographer, you must move beyond the idea that you “take” a photo. Ansel Adams said it succinctly: “You don’t take a photograph, you make it.”

What’s the difference? The idea is that you think about what you’re trying to communicate with your photo, then do everything you can to include that, and only that, in your shot. Another way to put it: Snapshots are taken by people who just point and click. Photographs are made by artists who give thought to the image they are creating.

Ultimately, it doesn’t matter what instrument you use, smartphone or high-end digital camera. What counts is the thought you put into your work. You generally won’t need to make a landscape photograph in a hurry, so slow down and think about what you’re doing.

If you only take one tip from this article, make sure it’s this one. Your smartphone landscape photography will be far ahead of the rest of the happy snappers who just point and shoot.

2. Carefully choose a composition

wheat field at sunset smartphone landscape photography
Getting down in the wheat field with the stalks just inches from the smartphone lens gave an immersive feel to this image. Smartphone optics are good for this kind of thing!

Composition is king in photography, no matter your camera.

So study compositional techniques such as the rule of thirds. Use the thirds grid on your smartphone to assist you. Do “border patrol” of your shot, looking for distracting elements around the edges of the frame.

Consider whether you should use portrait (vertical) or landscape (horizontal) mode for the shot. Just because you typically hold your phone vertically doesn’t mean you should always take photos that way. In fact, most landscape images benefit from a landscape mode composition. (Guess that’s why they call it that, huh?)

barn on a hillside
Composition is still king in smartphone landscape photography. Note how the horizon is on the top third line and the barn sits at the power-point intersection of the right third line: the rule of thirds at work.

Of course, sometimes portrait mode is better suited for a shot. Thanks to their small sensors and wide lenses, smartphones feature excellent depth of field, which can make for beautiful near/far images (with everything sharp from foreground to horizon).

beach in the afternoon
To emphasize the height of the cliffs and the stretch of the coastline, I decided that portrait mode was the proper orientation for this shot.

Note that creating such an expansive depth of field would require an ultra-narrow aperture – or even a focus stack – on a DSLR. But on a smartphone camera, it requires nothing extra.

rock textures
With a 1.78mm lens, even an f-stop of f/1.9 gives a huge depth of field, spanning from inches away from the lens to infinity.

3. Seek the light

Since we have our smartphones with us most of the time, we can make photos whenever we like. But images in midday sun usually won’t look great no matter what camera you use. Nice light is always going to make for a better photo.

So if you can do your smartphone landscape photography in the early morning or late evening – the “magic hours” – you’ll almost always end up with more dramatic images.

sunset at a park
This location at a local park is nothing special during the day. With a night sunset, however, it makes for great silhouettes. Seek the light!

Modern smartphone cameras have also become much better at low-light shooting, so don’t overlook the possibility of night photos.

4. Take control of your smartphone settings

Beginning photographers, even with higher-end cameras, often stick to the simplicity of automatic modes and let the camera determine the focus, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and white balance.

Yet while early smartphone cameras offered no option for manual control, many modern smartphone cameras now offer full manual control over settings. You can also find apps that expand your camera control, such as ProCam X for Android devices Camera+ for iPhones.

By taking control of your camera settings, you can create better landscape photos – so make sure to explore these options, even if you currently feel more comfortable with your smartphone’s Auto mode.

5. Use all available lenses

huge trees in a forest
My smartphone has two cameras, one with a wider angle of view than the other. Some newer smartphones now have four cameras on the back, a response to the lack of interchangeable lenses.

It used to be that a distinct advantage of standard cameras over smartphone cameras was lens interchangeability. A smartphone had one lens with a fixed focal length, no optical zoom, and a set aperture.

But look at the back of a modern smartphone, and you’ll see multiple cameras. An iPhone 14 Pro Max features three cameras, and that’s not including a fourth option that’s produced through clever use of the main camera sensor. There’s also the selfie-cam on the front, but that’s not one you’re likely to use for landscape photography.

trees on a sunny day
Go wide and go vertical, a great way to emphasize these towering redwoods.

If you have additional lenses, take advantage of them! On the other hand, don’t use digital zoom. Sure, it might seem easy to “zoom” into a composition with a simple touch of the screen, but you’re actually just cropping the image and losing resolution in the process.

I’d also discourage clip-on lenses for smartphones. These are always fiddly to work with, and in my experience, they almost never produce quality images. Save your money. If you need a more versatile lens than your smartphone but still want something pocketable, check out some of the great point-and-shoot cameras that have superzooms and good specs.

6. Grab a smartphone tripod

I shoot from a tripod about 85% of the time. However, I often see other landscape photographers happily working away with no tripod in sight.

Yes, lens and IBIS (in-body image stabilization) has brought us a long way, and if the light permits, a fast shutter speed might negate the advantage of a tripod. But I’ve got to say it: A tripod does have a place in smartphone landscape photography. When the light is low and your shutter speed gets longer, being able to keep the camera still is the difference between a fuzzy shot and a tack-sharp shot. Add the ability to take really long exposures (yes, many smartphone cameras can do this!), and a tripod can sometimes make a lot of sense.

waterfall long exposure
You need three legs to make this shot. A four-second exposure requires the steadiness of a tripod and manual control of your smartphone camera.

There is one good thing, however: you don’t need a big tripod for your tiny smartphone. Pocketable tripods can do the trick; couple one with a Bluetooth remote trigger, and you can capture multi-second exposures. Joby, the company that invented the GorillaPod, is a good place to look.

By the way, if you’re going to be using your standard tripod with your smartphone, a smartphone adapter is a good addition to your bag.

7. Work in HDR

HDR mode is a staple in modern smartphones, and it’s especially useful for landscape photography. What HDR does is simple yet effective: it takes multiple photos at varying exposure levels and blends them into a single, well-exposed image.

In most landscape scenarios, this means capturing the bright sky, the darker terrain, and everything in between without losing detail. You won’t end up with blown-out skies or overly dark shadows. It’s like having your cake and eating it too (photographically speaking).

waterfall with flowers smartphone landscape photography
I’d driven past this location many times and had already visualized the image in my head. So one day, I just had to stop, pull out my smartphone, and record the photo.

HDR is generally an automated feature, making it easy to use even if you’re a complete beginner. Make sure the mode is activated, then let your smartphone capture several shots for blending. (It’s often so fast you won’t even notice!)

But what if your phone’s built-in HDR mode isn’t cutting it for you? No worries – you have options. For instance, you can work with a different camera app, or you can manually capture several photos at different exposures, then blend them together using an editing app on your phone.

The goal is to create a balanced image that includes nice detail (and minimal noise) from corner to corner. In landscape photography, HDR techniques can make an enormous difference!

8. Got a backup? Make one!

With standard cameras, we typically have image files stored on a card in the camera. Remove that card, copy the files to the computer, and make a backup – that’s the standard workflow.

Shooting with a smartphone, however, the images are stored in internal memory and sometimes on a micro SD card in the phone. You can connect your phone to your computer or plug in the micro SD card, but who does that? Most people just let the images stay on their phone. Which is fine, until your phone crashes, the storage is corrupted, or you break or lose your phone.

Now, what if your images were backed up to the cloud – as soon as you shot them? Not only would you have a backup, you’d have the images in a place where they could be easily shared to social media, emailed, whatever you prefer. There are many apps that will do this, but as an Android user, I look no further than Google Photos. iPhone users can also use Google Photos, but might instead opt for iCloud.

motorcycle on the road
I don’t like carrying my regular camera on a dirt bike ride, but my smartphone camera? Yup, it’s the one that’s always with me. As long as I’m in range of a cell tower, my photos are immediately backed up as soon as I shoot them.

Whatever option you choose, the idea is to have an app that immediately and automatically syncs your smartphone images to the cloud for safe backup.

9. Use GPS data to track your photo locations

Almost all smartphones will embed the GPS coordinates of a photo in the EXIF data. Bring up a photo, and in many apps, you will be able to see exactly when and where that photo was made. Some apps will also present pins on a map showing where a collection of photos was shot. If you decide you want to go back to that spot, it’s easy to find it again.

Oregon Secret Beach
They call this beautiful spot on the Oregon coast “Secret Beach,” but even though it’s not signed, enough people have posted GPS-tagged images of it online that it’s not much of a secret anymore.

There is a downside to photos being tagged with GPS data. If you post a GPS-tagged image on social media, viewers can determine exactly where the photo was taken. This has caused an ethical dilemma for landscape photographers. Places that used to be known only to a few are now known widely. Photographers seeing a great photo online often think, “I want to go to that spot, too!” The problem is that beautiful places are being overrun, trampled down, littered, and even vandalized by unscrupulous people. Some places are now closed off because they were “loved to death” by the crowds who discovered them online.

So as an ethical landscape photographer, you may wish to consider stripping off the GPS data from your images before posting. It may not be necessary for the most well-known spots, as people already know where those are. But if you find a really great waterfall way up a mountain trail, consider keeping it a secret. Not only will you have an exclusive shot, but you’ll prevent hordes of people from descending upon it.

GPS data for a lighthouse image
Take a look at a GPS-tagged photo with Google Maps or Lightroom, and you can see right where the photo was taken. The Portland Head lighthouse isn’t much of a secret, but think twice before posting GPS-tagged photos.

10. Try shooting in RAW

Many newer smartphone cameras can now shoot in RAW format. My current LG V30 does this, and I have successfully brought its DNGs into Lightroom for editing.

That said, I often find that the additional work this requires (plus the huge file sizes and the drawback of not having an easily uploadable JPEG) makes RAW smartphone shooting too much of a hassle. AIso, I’m usually hard-pressed to edit a RAW file into a better image than a JPEG.

flowers with water droplets
Many smartphones excel at macro shots. I could have shot this in a RAW format, but I doubt I could’ve processed it any better than this JPEG. If the smartphone can do a better job, why go to the extra work of shooting RAW? (Note: I did edit the JPEG with Snapseed.)

If your smartphone can shoot in RAW, give it a test and see what you think. I typically advocate shooting in RAW, but if the end result isn’t any better, it may not be worth it for you.

11. Capture some panoramas

smartphone landscape panorama
Here’s a shot using the sweep panorama feature within my smartphone that automatically stitches the images together.

So you’ve found an awe-inspiring vista, but even with your smartphone’s widest lens, you can’t seem to fit the entire scene into one shot. Don’t fret; most smartphones have a built-in panorama mode, and it can be incredibly effective when you want to capture wide, sprawling landscapes.

You’ll generally find the panorama mode in the camera app, sometimes indicated by an icon resembling a mountain range. Once you’ve activate the panorama capability, it’s all about stability. Hold your phone carefully, then tap the shutter button and carefully pan your phone from one side to the other. Usually, your phone will guide you with on-screen directions to ensure you’re maintaining a level image. When you’re done, you’ll have the entire scene captured in a single image.

Now, if you’re aiming for an even more detailed panorama, you do have another option: rather than relying solely on your phone’s panorama mode, take multiple overlapping photos of the scene manually. (These should be regular photos, not photos shot in panorama mode.)

Then upload them to an app designed to stitch photos together into a panorama. The results can be stunningly detailed and are often superior to what you can achieve with your phone’s built-in feature.

panorama of the ocean
Want a really big pano with your smartphone? Shoot a series of vertical shots (maybe 20 or so) and let a smartphone app like Bimostitch assemble them. The finished image of this 180-degree panorama is 6227×2753 pixels.

12. Edit your smartphone landscape shots

Some photographers believe you should get your image right in-camera so you don’t have to edit. They don’t like to edit their images, ever.

I disagree.

Whether captured with a regular camera or a smartphone, almost any shot can be made better with some editing. You will often want to crop, adjust exposure, and perhaps go even further. Fortunately, there are excellent editing apps for smartphones, and they’re often free.

My absolute favorite is Snapseed. It’s available for both Android and iPhone and is completely free. It’s very easy to learn, has a nice array of tools, and it is rare that any smartphone image I consider a keeper does not get the Snapseed treatment.

before and after editing
You’re not done until you edit! The top shot is straight out of the smartphone camera. The bottom version is edited with Snapseed. You can almost always improve a photo with a little editing.

There are many other great smartphone editing apps, though. Adobe Lightroom has a mobile version that is very good. Some may argue that the whole idea of smartphone photography is “quick and easy photography” and therefore balk at editing. I get it, but I still think that almost any image can be improved with some fine-tuning.

13. Previsualize with your smartphone camera

When out on a dedicated landscape photo outing, I almost always have my smartphone in my pocket and my DSLR and equipment in a backpack. Often, I will use the smartphone as a tool to previsualize and help compose a shot. I’ll make some photos, consider my vantage point, and then determine if I even want to set up my tripod and bring out my other gear. This has several advantages.

bristlecone pines in California smartphone landscape photography
These bristlecone pines in the White Mountains of California are the oldest living things on earth (over 5,000 years old!). I wasn’t going to forget my DSLR when I went to shoot them, but I first did these previsualization shots with my smartphone.

If the shot doesn’t have merit, I will move on, not even going to the trouble of bringing out my DSLR. On the other hand, if it is a good shot, I will have captured GPS data, plus I’ll have a smartphone image that will be uploaded to the cloud.

And here’s the kicker: Occasionally, my smartphone shot will be better than what I later shoot with my main camera. There have been times when, with changing light, the first capture is best. Sometimes the smartphone camera will process the image as a JPEG and achieve better results than I get when editing the RAW file from my main camera. There have also been times when I didn’t bother to shoot a DSLR photo – the smartphone shot was all I took – and was later happy I did because it turned out great.

black and white rock formations
We left the cameras in the car and hiked down to the shore of Mono Lake to check out the tufa formations. Good thing I had my smartphone camera, as this rain squall passed over the island in the distance. By the time I got back with my DSLR, the shot was gone.

The pros and cons of smartphone landscape photography

Smartphone cameras have become more sophisticated than ever, making them increasingly viable options for capturing landscape photography. But as with any tool, they have their strengths and weaknesses. Let’s explore the good and the bad so you can make the most informed decisions before investing in – or avoiding – certain gear.

Pro: Immediate accessibility

mountains with storm clouds
This truly is “drive-by shooting,” as I snapped it out the car window while racing down the road. My DSLR was still stashed in my backpack.

One of the most compelling advantages of a smartphone is its accessibility. You carry it everywhere you go – so whether you’re on a morning walk or on a weekend getaway, your smartphone is always within arm’s reach.

This immediate availability allows you to capture those unplanned, magical moments. A golden sunset or an unexpected rainbow can appear in an instant. With your smartphone, you don’t have to regret leaving your DSLR at home, and you can capture the magic then and there.

Pro: Portability

Smartphone landscape photography

DSLRs and mirrorless cameras are great, but they’re not exactly pocket-friendly. Your smartphone, however, slides effortlessly into your pocket or bag, making it the ultimate travel companion.

Imagine climbing a mountain or trekking through a forest. The last thing you want is a heavy camera bag weighing you down. With a smartphone, you can hike more freely and still capture the natural beauty surrounding you.

Pro: Computational abilities

Your smartphone isn’t just a camera; it’s a mini-computer with advanced software. Features like HDR and depth mapping offer you technical advantages that even some dedicated cameras lack.

As discussed above, HDR helps balance out shadows and highlights, producing images that closely resemble what your eyes see, and it involves significant file processing. And depth mapping technology allows your phone to create a more realistic background blur. Sure, many landscape photographers prefer to keep the entire shot sharp – but a nice depth of field effect can draw attention to foreground subjects such as flowers or wildlife.

Pro: An all-in-one workflow

Smartphone landscape photography

Another game-changing benefit of smartphones is the all-in-one workflow. You shoot, edit, and share – all without leaving your device.

Various editing apps let you tweak your landscape shots to perfection right after capturing them, and many of them are well-made and free. Once you’ve edited a batch of shots, you can share them on social media and/or send the files to friends and family, all in a matter of seconds.

This streamlined workflow not only saves time but also keeps the creative process flowing. You can visualize, execute, and share your artistic vision almost instantaneously.

Con: Limited focal length

One drawback to using smartphones for landscape photography? The limited focal length range. While many smartphones come with several lenses, they can’t compete with the extensive lens lineups offered by dedicated camera manufacturers.

It’s not a huge deal if you always like to capture wide-angle shots, but if you ever want to capture distant details, like the snow-covered peaks of a mountain range, the focal-length limitations start to become evident. And while lots of smartphone cameras offer a digital zoom feature, it almost always leads to a loss of image quality, making the picture appear grainy or pixelated.

Con: Smaller sensors

Smartphone landscape photography

Sensors in smartphones are getting better, but they’re still pretty disappointing compared to what you’ll find in a dedicated camera, in large part due to their size. Smartphone imaging sensors are very small – it’s part of what makes smartphones so portable – and a smaller sensor tends to produce images that are noisier, particularly in low-light situations.

You can get around this by using a tripod and manually setting the ISO to a low value, but it’s certainly an obstracle to be aware of.

Con: Softer lenses

As you start to develop a landscape portfolio, you may decide to print your images. That’s when another con of smartphone cameras becomes apparent: reduced sharpness in larger prints.

When you blow up a photo for printing, every little flaw becomes magnified. The optics of smartphone lenses, while impressive, often don’t stand up to close scrutiny in larger formats. Your image may appear sharp on the phone screen – but when printed, you might notice a lack of fine detail that a dedicated camera lens would have captured.

Con: Lack of control

One thing that seasoned photographers appreciate about DSLRs and mirrorless cameras is the control they offer. From manually adjusting focus to adjusting the aperture settings, these cameras provide more hands-on control over the final image.

While many smartphones offer “pro” or “manual” modes that provide some level of customization, these options are often not as comprehensive as those on a dedicated camera, so you might find yourself a bit handcuffed when trying to achieve a specific look or feel in challenging shooting conditions.

So can you really capture high-quality landscape photos using a smartphone?

smartphone landscape photography of a beach
My current Android smartphone (an LG V30 H931) may not have the best camera, but it’s often the best camera I have with me, and that’s what counts. All the photos in this article are smartphone images, often made on my V30.

More than a few times, I’ve chatted with talented photographers who scoff at the idea of serious photography with a smartphone. Knowing I shoot both phone and dedicated camera images, they sometimes admire an image I’ve made, but then ask, “Did you take that with your real camera?”

My “real camera?” Why do some think a smartphone camera isn’t real, or that a person that shoots with one isn’t a real photographer?

I would argue that if you make a nice landscape image, it doesn’t matter what you use to make it. Hopefully, the images throughout this article prove that a smartphone is more than capable of producing great shots – and that with the right approach, smartphone landscape photography can be both beautiful and compelling.

And when it comes down to it, most modern smartphone cameras have far better specs than DSLRs from a decade ago. Sure, certain factors favor DSLRs, such as the greater control, the ability to use interchangeable lenses, and the larger sensor size. But the idea that you can’t make great images with a smartphone camera? Hogwash, I say!

Smartphone landscape photography tips: final words

I’d never tell you to sell your dedicated camera and shoot only with a smartphone. As a dedicated photography tool, your DSLR or mirrorless camera should generally be capable of making superior images, especially if you’ll be printing large. But smartphone cameras get better with every generation, and it’s evident that the camera in your pocket is more than capable of capturing the grandeur of the natural world.

Sure, a smartphone won’t replace a professional camera in all aspects. But it offers a compelling, immediate, and highly portable alternative. So embrace the limitations and the perks alike. Every tool has its quirks and features; it’s really just about knowing how to make them work for you.

And as always, practice makes perfect. So head out into the wide world, smartphone in hand – and capture some awe-inspiring landscape shots of your own!

Smartphone landscape photography FAQ

Is my smartphone camera adequate for doing quality landscape photography?

Most likely. Some believe a smartphone is not a “real camera,” but modern smartphone cameras are now more sophisticated than the DSLRs of just a few years ago. Unless your intent is to make large prints, your smartphone images will be more than adequate for most purposes.

What is the most important thing to remember in smartphone landscape photography?

The answer is the same for any kind of photography, regardless of what kind of camera you use: composition is king. Take the time to frame up your image using the standard rules of good composition, and your shots will automatically be better than those of the “happy snappers” who just point and shoot.

What should I do to take my smartphone landscape photography up a notch?

Learn to use the manual controls of your smartphone camera. These may be built in, or you may need an app, but just as serious photographers using standard cameras learn to work in manual modes, you should learn to do the same with your smartphone camera.

What else can I do to make better smartphone landscape photos?

Edit your images. Many smartphone photographers think they’re done when they click the shutter, but almost any photograph can be improved with some editing. For smartphone photography, Snapseed is a great place to start.

The post A Guide to Smartphone Landscape Photography (+ 13 Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.



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[Photography] Headshot Photography: An In-Depth Guide for Professional Results

The post Headshot Photography: An In-Depth Guide for Professional Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.

How to capture pro-level headshots

Headshot photography is one of the most popular forms of portraiture, and for good reason. Pretty much everyone needs a pro-looking headshot at some point in their lives, whether it’s for a social media profile, a staff page on a business website, or a résumé.

But capturing gorgeous headshots isn’t as easy as it might seem. You need to carefully choose the right settings, determine the proper composition, ensure a beautiful background blur, make sure the subject’s expression looks good – the list goes on.

I’m a veteran headshot photographer, and in this article, I share my top tips for stunning results, including various tricks and techniques I’ve developed through lots of trial and error. I also share plenty of professional examples so you know exactly what to look for. By the time you’re finished reading, you’ll understand precisely how to create a refined headshot, no matter the situation.

Let’s get started.

What is a headshot?

Headshot photography

At its core, a headshot is a photograph that zeroes in on a person’s face.

Sometimes it’s just the head, and at other times it can extend to include the shoulders or even just the upper body. The focus is almost always on the person’s face, and the image is usually set against a neutral background to eliminate distractions (though as you’ll see, it’s possible to capture lifestyle-type headshots that situate a person in their surroundings).

The goal of headshot photography is simple yet crucial: to present the individual in a professional and approachable manner. And depending on the context, a headshot can serve multiple purposes. In corporate settings, it’s often the picture people see before a meeting. Actors use headshots to land roles. Even on social media, a quality headshot helps to establish a strong first impression.

Why is quality headshot photography so important?

Headshot photography

In today’s digital world, a headshot is practically a necessity – and you can’t just head into your bedroom, pose against the wall, and snap a grainy selfie, either. You need a polished, professional image.

Whether you’re a freelancer, a small business owner, or a student, your headshot serves as a visual resume. It can make or break opportunities for you. A quality headshot is your foot in the door. It’s the first impression people have of you, and it often comes long before they meet you in person.

Your headshot is everywhere, from LinkedIn profiles to business cards, from personal websites to corporate directories. This ubiquity makes it more essential than ever to get it right. A poor or even just an average headshot can inadvertently convey a lack of professionalism, ruining a great opportunity before you can say, “Wait!”

So the better the headshot, the better the impression you make. And the better the impression, the more doors will open for you, both professionally and personally. Investing in a good headshot can bring returns that far exceed the initial cost. This is why mastering the art of headshot photography can be so effective for portrait photographers; it allows them to offer a service that everyone needs.

The best headshot photography gear

Before you even press the shutter button, your gear plays a huge role in the quality of the headshots you’ll capture. It’s not just about the camera; your lens, lighting, and even your backdrop can impact the final product. Here’s the equipment I recommend you use:

An interchangeable lens camera

Headshot setup

Start with a camera that offers interchangeable lenses. This will be your primary tool, and it needs to be up to the task.

Why interchangeable lenses? Because they offer unparalleled flexibility and image quality. You get to choose the best lens for the specific shot you’re taking, which means you’re not compromising on the end result. With fixed-lens cameras, you might find yourself stuck with a suboptimal perspective that doesn’t do your subject justice.

Plus, interchangeable-lens cameras offer larger sensors, which in turn delivers better image quality. For that reason, purchasing a DSLR or a mirrorless camera is a great starting point (though you don’t need to go wild and spend thousands of dollars; there are some nice entry-level options that are capable of pro-level images.)

A high-quality portrait lens

Headshot photography

Selecting the right lens can make a world of difference in headshot photography, but what lens should you pick? There are a few different options, but if you can only work with one lens, a 50mm prime or an 85mm prime would be my top choice.

You see, the standard and short-telephoto focal lengths create a perspective close to the natural field of view of the human eye; as a result, they allow you to shoot from a reasonable distance and avoid unflattering distortion. Plus, 50mm and 85mm prime lenses come with wide apertures, allowing you to blur out the background so your subject stands out.

Now, between the 50mm and the 85mm, it mostly boils down to your shooting environment. If you have a smaller studio or shooting space, a 50mm lens might be more convenient. If you have room to step back and/or want a tighter composition, an 85mm lens is ideal.

An off-camera flash

Headshot photography

Most serious headshot photography takes place indoors – either in a studio or at the client’s office – where light can be hard to come by. And even if you’re working in an area with large windows and lots of light, you won’t have much control over its intensity or direction. That’s why I recommend using at least one off-camera flash.

Off-camera flashes allow you to position your light source at different angles, which allows you to achieve a variety of different effects. For instance, you can angle your flash to create a dramatic effect, a clean effect, and anything in between. This ability to control the direction and intensity of light can make a huge difference.

And no, I don’t recommend you simply use your camera’s pop-up flash. In addition to gaining plenty of flexibility, by taking your flash off-camera, you avoid the “deer in the headlights” look that on-camera flash often produces, and you can instead produce a more natural, subtle headshot.

A reflector

Reflectors don’t produce light; rather, they bounce it. And if you’re only working with a single off-camera flash (or you’re using natural light), a reflector is a great way to easily balance out the lighting on your subject.

A well-positioned reflector will fill in unwanted shadows, particularly those under the eyes or chin (common issues in headshot photography!). Reflectors are also very lightweight and can fold up for added portability, plus they usually come in various colors like white, silver, or gold, each offering a different quality of light bounce.

A tripod

Headshot photography

Whether or not you work with off-camera flashes, don’t underestimate the role of a good tripod in your headshot setup! For one, it frees you up. Once you’ve framed your shot, a tripod allows you to engage with your subject without worrying about losing your framing; you can walk out from behind the camera to talk to them, to show them different poses, etc.

It’s also essential if you’re photographing several people back-to-back (e.g., when doing a quick office photoshoot for all the employees on the floor). You can establish your lighting and composition, lock in your camera, and capture consistent results.

Studio backdrops

Headshot photography

Last but not least, let’s talk about backgrounds. Having a couple of studio backgrounds on hand can be crucial for your headshot sessions.

Some nice backgrounds allows you to give your subjects options – some people prefer a more natural setting, while others might request a formal backdrop like seamless paper in black or white. Offering such choices elevates your service and makes the session more personalized.

Additionally, the right background can drastically improve the overall feel of the headshot. It can add depth or simplicity, depending on the look you’re aiming for. At the end of the day, having a variety of backgrounds on hand gives you the flexibility to meet different client expectations and opens up creative possibilities for your work.

Note: Make sure to invest in a reliable method for hanging these backgrounds as well, and if you’ll be shooting on location, make sure it’s one you can quickly set up and tear down. Whether you use a dedicated background stand or an improvised solution, it should be sturdy enough to hold the backdrop securely.

Headshot photography lighting: a primer

Headshot photography

Lighting is an essential part of professional headshot photography, and you one-hundred percent cannot skimp on your lighting techniques. Lighting should be controlled and carefully positioned. Fortunately, once you know the basics, getting a good, consistent look is actually quite easy.

For business and actors’ headshots, I tend to light quite evenly. There are a few circumstances where the images are low key (i.e., moody with a black background), but for the most part, I like to go for a balanced, detailed effect. A classic beauty lighting setup works well, with one light above and a second light, or a reflector, supplying fill light from below. You can also try positioning your key light slightly off-center to add a bit of definition to your subject’s features.

I generally make sure the subject’s body is turned 45 degrees away from the camera, while their face remains pointed toward me. (You may need to guide people to look straight down the lens – and you may be surprised how many people, when left to their own devices, will look off-camera, at the flash, or somewhere random – and it won’t turn out so great!)

As you can see from the behind-the-scenes shot below, I’ve asked my subject to turn her body 45 degrees from the camera. (She’s still looking straight into the lens, though!) I’ve added a large light in front (slightly to the left), and I’m using a reflector below her face to reduce harsh shadows. I’ve also included a small softbox behind my subject to separate her hair from the background.

And here’s a headshot example that I captured using a similar setup:

Posing example

Of course, if you’re after a more candid headshot – where your subject is talking on the phone, reading, or working on their laptop – you’ll need to be more flexible, but you should pay careful attention to the lighting regardless.

12 headshot photography tips for stunning results

Capturing top-notch headshots – the kind that’ll please even the most serious clients – doesn’t have to be difficult, but it does require a nuanced approach. Here are my favorite tips to help you out, including a rundown of the best headshot photography settings:

1. Have a pre-session consultation

There are many different headshot styles – and different models/clients/subjects will need specific stylistic results depending on the headshot purpose. For instance, an artistic, color-graded look might work great for a fashion model but won’t be appreciated by a corporate client.

So before your session, have a sit-down with your subject. Make sure you know exactly how your headshot photograph will be used. You might even ask, point-blank: “What kind of style would you like?” And be prepared to show plenty of examples that convey their options.

This consultation can take place on the phone or face-to-face. I don’t recommend communicating in writing, though; talking to your subject will help them relax much more than an email, and you can use the consultation to help them prepare for the session, too (by explaining what to expect and by answering their questions).

Headshot on White Background

Pro tip: If the headshots will be used for corporate materials, use the consultation to find out your subject’s profession. A corporate lawyer may opt for a clean white background look (above), while a more relaxed professional (e.g., a yoga instructor) may prefer a colorful, environmental image (below).

Indoor Headshot

And an actor or writer may desire the more dramatic effect created by a black background:

Headshot on Black Background

2. Help your subject choose the right clothes

Generally speaking, solid, neutral colors work best for headshots, as you want to avoid anything that distracts from people’s faces.

man with good headshot clothing

If you’re looking to achieve a formal style, make sure everyone remembers to bring their best work clothes. Men often forget their jackets, so for a consistent look, try to have a spare one on hand, even if you need to clip it at the back. And if possible, send out a reminder the day before your scheduled photo shoot. (Oh, and include an ironing reminder, too – there’s nothing more frustrating than a photo ruined by wrinkled clothes!)

Also, if you’ll have lots of time with a person, get them to bring a few items of clothing. You can do changes throughout the session and provide them with a variety of final images.

Here are some examples of good clothing choices:

women with good headshot clothing
man with good clothing for a headshot

Notice how the tops are generally solid in color and relatively plain? That keeps the focus on the subject’s face.

3. Create separation from the background

Great headshot photography generally includes separation between the subject and the background. There should be a clear foreground subject (the head!) and a clear (ideally blurred) background.

The easiest way to achieve this effect is by positioning your subject a handful of feet in front of any background elements, be it trees, grass, a stairwell, a building, or a desk. For indoor portraits, don’t let your subject lean against the wall; instead, bring them out so the wall can blur.

Headshot photography

Also, if you are using a studio background (or the wall in an office) and you let your subject get too close, you may see shadows on the wall, which makes the images look less professional. Bottom line: get your subject away from the background, no matter how interesting or nondescript it seems.

You can also enhance the subject-background separation by widening your aperture, which will decrease depth of field to create nice background bokeh. Typically, I aim for an aperture of f/4 for environmental and natural light sessions; the aperture is wide enough for background blur but narrow enough to keep the subject’s head sharp. However, you can always experiment with even wider apertures, such as f/2.8 or even f/1.8. You may struggle to shoot your entire subject in focus, but in the right scenario, this can look great.

(Note: If you’re doing a studio session, with lights and prepared backgrounds, you’ll have more leeway. For such portraits, I often just use an aperture of f/8.)

4. Shoot in Manual mode

Headshot photography

If you’re just starting out with headshot photography, you may be tempted to use your camera’s Auto mode – but while such an approach will often get you decent results, if you want to capture consistently great images, I’d really encourage you to use Manual mode instead.

With Manual mode, you can set your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO independently, which means that you can set up your lighting, take a few test shots to set the exposure, and then simply leave your settings as they are for the rest of the session. (Of course, if you change locations or the lighting changes, then you’ll need to set the exposure again!)

That way, you can focus on shooting rather than on tweaking the aperture or shutter speed as you go along. And you’ll finish your shoot confidently – because you’ll know that you consistently nailed the exposure.

5. Give your subjects time to relax

Headshot photography

Whether you are photographing headshots for a single person or a whole team, make sure you have a general chat with each person before firing the camera. In my experience, this is the best way to help your subject relax, and relaxation leads to the best images.

Your chat can be pretty quick, too. It can be a 10-second, confident handshake and a “How are you?” Though if you have time, I’d recommend going a little deeper; people generally feel very nervous about having their photograph taken, and talking about something within their comfort zone (where they live, if they have children or pets, etc.) will really help them become more comfortable.

If you’re anxious about interacting with people – or you’re just not sure what to say – try coming up with a few lines in advance. Obviously, you don’t have to stick to your script, but a handful of memorized questions can be the difference between an engaging session and a stiff, uncomfortable one.

6. Ask for silly faces

Here’s one of my favorite tips for taking headshots, and while it’s a little unorthodox, it gets the job done:

Once your subject sits down and you’re ready to take a test shot or two, ask them to pull a funny face. You can shoot it as a first frame. It’s a great way to break the ice, and very few people will refuse to do it.

Once your subject has pulled a silly face, everything else is easy! It’s the technique I used for this headshot photo:

person making a funny face

Which then led to this professional result:

Headshot Photography example

Of course, don’t go overboard, and if your subject feels uncomfortable with the idea, don’t push it. The idea is to make them more comfortable, not less!

7. Shoot in RAW

Headshot photography

If you’re already working in RAW, then you can skip this tip – but if you’re currently working in JPEG, then it’s essential that you read this section carefully.

You see, while JPEG files do come with several advantages – they’re far smaller and require zero processing – these are far outweighed by the disadvantages. Because JPEGs are compressed, they don’t retain all the data from the moment of capture, which means that you lose color information and tonal information when you hit that shutter button.

RAW files, on the other hand, are uncompressed. When you shoot in RAW, the files are a lot larger, but this is because they contain lots of extra information discarded by JPEGs. And it’s this extra information that will allow you to recover detail and adjust colors without issue.

Sure, most of your JPEGs will look pretty good straight out of camera. But what if you accidentally overexpose or underexpose a series of headshots? If you had the RAW file, you would likely manage to recover the lost highlight or shadow detail – but because you’re shooting in JPEG, that information will be lost forever, and your shots will be ruined.

So whatever you do, shoot in RAW! You’ll need to spend a bit of time post-processing the images when you’re done (see the final tip in this article), but I promise that it’ll be worth the extra effort.

8. Sit people down

Headshot Photography: An In-Depth Guide for Professional Results

People often feel more comfortable sitting down, and at the end of the day, comfort is king. Feel free to offer the option of standing, though – people will prefer this on occasion.

Ask your subject to rest their hands on the tops of their thighs (it gives them something to do with their hands!). It also ensures that the subject knows where they need to be and won’t move around too much.

And honestly, it’s pretty tough to tell whether a headshot is taken standing up or sitting down, so don’t stress too much about how either option looks.

9. Pay attention to the little things

What separates a great headshot from an average one are generally very small changes – little adjustments that can make all the difference.

So once you’ve got your lighting set up and your subject relaxed and ready to go, don’t rush. Instead, take the time to make changes: The slight tilt to the head, a subtle lean forward, a gentle but intriguing smile.

Don’t be afraid to ask someone to make very specific changes to their expression and position until you get the image you’re looking for. And once you do have the perfect shot, feel free to experiment a little with poses and even (if you’re not working with a series of clients) lighting. Who knows when you’ll come up with the next great look!

Below is a professional headshot example. Can you spot the little things that make it great?

Headshot Photography

10. Keep talking and be positive

When you’re taking photographs, talk to your subject. Reassure them that they’re doing it right and that you’re getting great images. It’s hard to do, yes – but it’s worth it because your subject will remain comfortable and you’ll stay on track to get professional headshot results.

Headshot photography

In fact, even if you’re not satisfied with the images you’re getting, continue to praise your subject. When your subject turns their head in a certain direction or when the light falls in a bad way, never express those feelings. Instead, tell them they’ve done a great job – then subtly prompt them to make adjustments to their pose.

Bottom line: Silence will kill the atmosphere, so no matter what is happening, just keep chatting. Stay positive!

11. Shoot tethered

Headshot photography

This isn’t essential, but if you have all the necessary equipment, I highly recommend you shoot tethered. And if you don’t have all the equipment, consider investing, because tethered shooting can be an absolute game-changer.

Note: Tethered photography involves connecting your camera to your laptop or desktop computer. As soon as you fire off a shot, it’ll appear on your monitor. You can even change your camera settings and hit the shutter button using your computer!

What makes tethering so effective? For one, when your subject can see a couple of shots on the screen, they’ll quickly get an idea of what needs to be changed. And tethered shooting is great for you, the photographer; you can see whether your lighting looks good, whether your subject is in focus, whether they’re nicely posed, etc., much more easily than on your camera’s LCD preview or in the camera viewfinder.

12. Don’t forget to process your photos

Headshot photography

Before you post an image online or share it with your clients, make sure you always, always, always spend time editing it in Lightroom, Photoshop, or your program of choice.

While you don’t need to go overboard with post-processing, a little work can go a long way. Make sure you correct the white balance to achieve natural colors, adjust the exposure until you have plenty of nice shadow and highlight detail, and try boosting the contrast for a little extra pop.

You might also add a slight vignette to the headshot to help the viewer focus on the main subject. And if you’re up for it, you can do some higher-level retouching to remove blemishes, whiten teeth, and subtly improve skin.

If you’re feeling intimidated by post-processing software, I’d really encourage you to head into a program and spend some time playing around with different sliders and tools. With enough experimentation, anyone can get great results!

Headshot photography tips: final words

Headshot photography

By now, you should have a good grasp of what it takes to excel in headshot photography. And while the journey toward capturing those perfect headshots will undoubtedly involve some trial and error, it’ll also be incredibly rewarding!

Remember, the best headshot doesn’t just capture a face; it captures a personality. It serves as a powerful tool for making first impressions in the digital age. And you, equipped with the right knowledge and gear, can be the one to make that happen.

I hope you find these tips for better headshot photos helpful. Commit them to memory, make my suggested changes, and pretty soon, you’ll be capturing pro-level images!

Now over to you:

Do you have any other tips we missed? Please share them – and your favorite headshot photos – in the comments below!

Note: This article was updated by Jaymes Dempsey in September 2023.

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The post Headshot Photography: An In-Depth Guide for Professional Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean Gannon.



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