Jul 31, 2022

[Photography] 9 Tips for Breathtaking Seascape Photography

The post 9 Tips for Breathtaking Seascape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.

tips for beautiful seascape photography

Capturing beautiful seascape photos might seem difficult, but it’s not as hard as you might think – once you know a few simple techniques.

I’ve been doing seascape photography for years, and in this article, I share my top tips, including:

  • The best settings for consistent results
  • How to choose the perfect lighting for stunning seascape images
  • How to pick the right locations and tides for amazing photos
  • Much more!

Ready to capture seascape shots like a pro? Then let’s dive right in, starting with my first tip:

1. Take proper safety precautions

First things first:

Seascape photography can be dangerous. As a seascape photographer, you spend time hiking over slippery and sharp rocks as the tide rises and the waves come closer and closer.

So always be aware of your surroundings and constantly observe what is happening around you. I’ve been trapped on a rocky outcrop with nothing but a wild sea around me. I’ve also been completely soaked by freak waves, and I’ve almost lost my camera more than once.

seascape photography

On the other hand, if you take proper precautions, you’ll find that the results of your sea adventures will be well worth it! Wear shoes with plenty of traction, always carry a phone, and keep waterproof bags on hand in case you need to protect your camera. And be mindful of the tide; if it starts to come in, make sure you have a clear exit strategy.

Finally, shoot with fellow photographers so you can help one other if necessary.

2. Scout the area and follow the tides

Once you pick a seascape photography location, start with a scouting trip. Consider possible foreground elements (such as rocks and sand patterns), look for stunning backgrounds (such as sea stacks), and pay careful attention to water levels.

Additionally, you must spend plenty of time researching the tides. Most coastal towns will have a tide table or chart available (you can also simply Google “tide table for [location]”), and I encourage you to study it carefully.

Now, there is no best tide for seascape photos. The right tide depends on the location, which is why a scouting trip is so critical. As you identify key foregrounds and backgrounds, you’ll need to note the tide – then make sure you plan your photo outing for a time when the essential compositional elements are exposed. (You don’t want to scout at low tide, only to return with your camera at high tide and find that the rock you were planning to photograph is now submerged!)

seascape photography

And bear in mind that the tide can affect the water movement and wave size. High tide will often offer lots of wave movement on beaches, but it might restrict water movement in other areas, so pay careful attention and head out when the conditions are right.

Oh, and always remember to look out for areas where the tide might rise. Little channels and gullies might seem innocuous, but they can be very dangerous at high tide; the water may recede when the tide is out, but as the tide comes in, such areas can become impossible to cross.

Pro tip: It can be a good idea to chat with local photographers and fishermen when planning a shoot. The locals often possess tons of knowledge you won’t get from tide charts.

3. Follow the weather

Do you want soft, serene seascape images? Or intense, dramatic shots with stormy skies? Here, the weather makes a huge difference – so it’s important to plan ahead.

Unfortunately, the weather in most coastal areas can be pretty unpredictable. A storm can roll in pretty quickly; alternatively, you may find yourself frustrated by clear skies when you were hoping for dark clouds.

So be sure to check the weather forecast a few hours before you plan to shoot, and then again right before you head out. I’d also encourage you to frequently watch the skies when you’re shooting. That way, if an unexpected storm whips up, you can be prepared.

And bear in mind that the weather, and particularly the wind, can make it tough to shoot sharp seascape photos. Heavy winds will shake your tripod and coat you (and your camera) with seaspray – so always carry a towel, and don’t be afraid to quit if the conditions become too rough.

4. Choose your location and lighting in advance

Coastal areas offer all sorts of photographic opportunities, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed – so I encourage you to identify your areas of interest in advance. (A scouting trip, as I discussed in a previous tip, is invaluable!)

Once you’ve picked a location, use an app like PhotoPills to determine the location of the sun around sunrise and sunset. That way, you can make sure you’re in the right position at the right time.

And speaking of the sun:

The best types of lighting for seascape photography, as with all landscape photography, are the golden hours (just after sunrise and just before sunset) and the blue hours (just before sunrise and just after sunset). The golden hours are a great way to capture magical shots with stunning light and shadows, while the blue hours guarantee ethereal lighting that makes for gorgeous long exposures.

So plan your outings for the right time of day, and get into position an hour or so before the light is right. That way, you have plenty of time to set up and determine the perfect composition.

One more piece of advice:

If you plan to shoot early in the morning or late in the evening, invest in a headlamp. Scrambling over rocks in the dark is not fun, and some extra illumination will go a long way toward keeping you safe.

seascape photography

5. Use the right shutter speed to blur (or freeze) the water

In seascape photography, you generally have two choices:

  1. You can blur the water for a magical effect
  2. You can freeze the movement of the waves for added intensity

Neither option is better than the other; it all depends on your creative vision. But it’s important that you switch your camera over to Manual mode and choose a shutter speed deliberately.

Personally, I like to blur the water when my composition includes water rolling over foreground elements. That way, I can give the water a soft, silky effect and create images that look somewhat surreal. To get the look I’m after, I generally need a shutter speed of 1/30s or slower, which is easy to achieve when shooting during the blue hour but tougher to get when the sun is still above the horizon. It’s a good idea to carry a neutral density filter or two; these simply darken down the scene so that you can use a longer shutter speed even in brighter light.

Pro tip: Try combining a neutral density filter with blue-hour light. You can really drop that shutter speed and create a fantasy-like effect – with misty water and streaky clouds.

Note that it’s not always possible to perfectly predict the effect of a slow shutter speed on the water. Different water speeds will produce different types of long-exposure blur, so I’d encourage you to experiment as much as possible and take plenty of images!

If you’re faced with intense wave action, you may wish to freeze the scene instead. For the best results, you’ll need to shoot at 1/1000s or faster – which requires either good light or a high ISO.

6. Use a narrow aperture to keep the scene sharp

Almost without exception, seascape photography is done at narrow apertures.

Why? A narrow aperture increases the depth of field so that you produce photos with the foreground and the background in focus. That way, the viewer is able to appreciate the entire scene in crisp, clear detail, from the nearest grains of sand to the most distant clouds:

seascape photography

For the best results, you’ll want to use an aperture in the f/8 to f/16 range. Apertures wider than f/8 will prevent you from capturing sufficient depth of field, while apertures narrower than f/16 will produce blur-inducing diffraction.

By the way, producing a sharp shot, deep depth of field shot isn’t just about selecting a narrow aperture. You also need to carefully focus your lens for the best results. Make sure to switch your lens over to manual focus, then choose a point of focus that’s about one-third of the way into the scene (the idea here is to approximate the hyperfocal distance, which will maximize your depth of field!).

7. Don’t be afraid to convert to black and white

Seascape images look amazing in color – but they can look great in black and white, too.

So I’d encourage you to shoot in color, but when editing, convert your files to monochrome. See what you think. If you don’t like the results, you can always hit the “Undo” button!

(Doing a quick B&W conversion in Lightroom is as simple as clicking a button, and the same is true of most other programs, too.)

You should also try to “see” in black and white when you’re out on a shoot. The best black and white seascape shots tend to feature silky water – the longer the exposure, the better! – and plenty of contrast in the foreground.

By the way, if you’re out shooting on a drab day, see if you can create more minimalistic compositions (i.e., include lots of negative space). The images may not look like much when in color, but with a quick black and white conversion and a boost in contrast, you’ll end up with a batch of stunning, even timeless, images.

8. Always use a tripod!

Whenever you head out to shoot seascapes, make sure you pack a tripod. A tripod will keep your camera steady as you capture long exposures, it’ll help you get the necessary depth of field, and it will improve your compositions tremendously.

seascape photography

Yes, tripods can be cumbersome. But they’re absolutely worth the effort, so if you don’t already own a sturdy tripod, get one.

I recommend using a carbon fiber tripod; these models combine a sturdy build with a lightweight body. However, if you don’t want to shell out for a good carbon fiber tripod, aluminum is another option (though you’ll need to clean it regularly to prevent corrosion due to seaspray!).

Note that even the sturdiest tripod may struggle to support your camera when buffeted by wind and waves, so when the weather gets really bad, you may want to pack up. And when you set your tripod on a sandy shoreline, beware: as the water comes in, your tripod may sink slightly, causing image blur. Always check your files afterward to be sure that the rocks and the clouds look sharp.

9. Choose the right foreground and background subjects

The best seascape photos feature compelling compositions, generally with an eye-catching foreground element and a beautiful backdrop. So when you’re out shooting, don’t just plonk down your camera and photograph the horizon; instead, look for interesting foregrounds and backgrounds until you find a stunning combination.

seascape photography

If you’re struggling to find good foregrounds, here are a few ideas:

  • Rocky outcrops
  • Patterns in the sand
  • Rivulets of water moving toward the ocean
  • Wave action
  • Stunning tidepools
  • Pebbles

And here are my favorite seascape backgrounds:

  • Lighthouses
  • Sea stacks
  • Stunning sunrise and sunset skies
  • Stormy clouds
  • Boats

Of course, you don’t need to restrict yourself to items on my list. What’s important is that you find foregrounds and backgrounds that work together to entrance the viewer!

Seascape photography tips: final words

Well, there you have it:

9 tips to take your seascape photos to the next level.

Seascape photography is often exhilarating, magical, and humbling – all at the same time. Just remember: Always stay safe, and do your best to plan out photos in advance.

Which of these tips do you plan to use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 9 Tips for Breathtaking Seascape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Barry J Brady.



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Jul 30, 2022

[Photography] 7 Tips for Stunning Night Portrait Photography

The post 7 Tips for Stunning Night Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean McCormack.

tips for stunning night portrait photos

Are you struggling to capture gorgeous night portraits? Are you looking for the tips, tricks, and secrets that’ll net you consistently outstanding night portrait photography?

You’ve come to the right place.

I love shooting portraits at night, and in this article, I share my best advice, including:

  • The best settings for beautiful results
  • How to use artificial light and natural light for outstanding effects
  • Any easy way to capture gorgeous nighttime backgrounds
  • Much more!

Ready to become a night portrait master? Then let’s dive right in, starting with my first tip:

1. Get off Auto mode

Auto mode is easy to use – you can simply set it and forget it – but it’s terrible for night portrait photography.

If you use your camera in Auto mode, you’ll generally end up with one of two results:

  1. You’ll get a blurry, unusable image
  2. Your subject will be heavily flashed and the background will turn black
night portrait photography
This is the type of result you’ll get if you combine Auto mode with your camera’s flash. The subject is brightly lit, but the background is unpleasantly dark.

In my experience, neither of the above outcomes is ideal, which is why it’s essential to move away from Auto mode as soon as you can.

What mode should you use instead?

One option is your camera’s Night Scene mode, which will fire your flash while also selecting a longer shutter speed. This can net you some nice shots, but it won’t give you control over your settings.

night portraits night scene mode on a camera
A camera with its Night Scene mode selected.

Therefore, a better option is either Manual mode or Aperture Priority mode. Both Manual and Aperture Priority let you change your camera settings at will. In Aperture Priority, you select the aperture and the ISO, while your camera selects a shutter speed for a balanced exposure. In Manual mode, you select the aperture, the ISO, and the shutter speed, while your camera selects nothing (in other words, you have total control!).

If you’ve never tried Aperture Priority, then I’d suggest starting there. You can use it to familiarize yourself with the different exposure settings. Then, as you gain confidence, you can switch over to Manual and see what you think.

2. Choose the right aperture, shutter speed, and ISO

Once you’ve chosen the perfect camera mode, it’s time to pick your main exposure settings: the aperture, the shutter speed, and the ISO.

Note that these three settings together produce the exposure – i.e., overall brightness – of the photo. One goal to keep in mind when picking your settings, therefore, is to create an image with plenty of detail in the shadows, highlights, and midtones.

However, the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO also affect other aspects of each image. The aperture adjusts the depth of field of the scene, the shutter speed determines scene sharpness, and the ISO influences the overall image quality.

Therefore, you need to choose each setting carefully. Here are my recommendations:

  • Pick your aperture first based on your depth of field requirements. If you want an artistic shallow depth of field effect, then choose a wide aperture, such as f/2.8. If you want a sharper background, go for a narrower aperture, such as f/8.
  • Next, choose the slowest shutter speed that’ll get you consistently sharp shots. If your subject is stationary, you might choose 1/160s. If your subject is moving, you might go for 1/500s or higher.
  • Finally, dial in your camera’s native ISO value (generally ISO 100) for the highest-quality photos.

Once you’ve chosen your ideal settings, frame your subject and check the exposure meter. If your image is underexposed, then you’ll need to either increase your ISO or widen your aperture further. Personally, I’m a fan of shallow depth of field portraits, so I don’t mind widening the aperture as far as it’ll go – but if you’re set on a sharp background, then go ahead and boost the ISO until you have a good exposure.

If your image is overexposed, then simply boost the shutter speed until the exposure meter is balanced.

3. Make sure you use artificial lighting

Without some form of artificial lighting, you’ll struggle to capture detailed images of your portrait subjects. The shots will turn out either wildly underexposed or very blurry, neither of which is ideal.

Note that your artificial lighting need not be a flash. It can be a streetlight, a neon sign, a phone flashlight – anything that lights up your subject and provides a bit of illumination for your camera to use. Of course, the light needs to be accessible; if you plan to use streetlights for your next photoshoot, for instance, make sure there are some nearby and on public land!

That said, I do recommend carrying an off-camera flash for nighttime portraits. This will give you the most flexibility – you can adjust the brightness and the direction – and you can use it to produce beautiful effects.

I’d also recommend buying a light stand, which you can use to mount your flash. (Alternatively, you can bring an assistant, who can hold the flash and aim it as needed.) You might even consider purchasing a modifier, which will soften the light for a more flattering effect.

4. Don’t be afraid to use a tripod

If you photograph portraits with a flash, the subject will turn out nice and bright – but the background will be unaffected (and will therefore remain dark).

So you have three options:

  1. You can embrace the black-background effect.
  2. You can boost your ISO until the background looks decently bright.
  3. You can mount your camera on a tripod, then capture a long exposure with a burst from your flash.

A black background can look nice, especially if you’re after a moodier image (see the example below). And a high ISO will get you a good exposure (at the cost of reduced image quality).

night portrait photography
Using a flash and a fast shutter speed will keep the subject well exposed but will darken the background.

But the long-exposure technique can produce great images, too, so I recommend you learn how it works.

First, make sure you have a sturdy tripod. I’d also encourage you to grab a remote release, which will let you trigger your camera without pressing the shutter button.

Set up your image, then choose your exposure settings based on the background, not the subject. To prevent your subject from turning too bright, dial in a shutter speed that’ll keep the background subtly underexposed. Note that your shutter speed should be reasonably long (generally 1/30s or below) in order to bring out detail in the background areas.

Finally, fire the shutter and the flash. The idea is that the flash will freeze your subject, while the lengthy shutter speed will give the camera enough time to record light from the background. You’ll get a beautiful result, one with a detailed (if slightly underexposed) background:

night portrait photography
This image looks just like the one displayed above – except that I used a longer exposure (1/30s) to bring out detail in the background.

If your first shots don’t turn out great, that’s okay! Nailing flash brightness can take some tweaking. If your subject is too bright but you like the background exposure, then try dropping the flash brightness or taking a few steps back from your subject. Alternatively, if your subject is too dark, increase the flash brightness or get closer to the subject.

night portrait of a woman on a bridge

5. Pay attention to the background

When doing night portrait photography, it’s easy to forget about the background. After all, it’s often too dark to see, plus your subject is what’s really important, right?

Not quite.

First of all, even in situations where you let the background fade to black, the final image will likely include some background elements, such as car lights, street lights, or lit-up signs.

And if you use the technique I shared in the previous tip, then the background will be clearly visible in the final photo, even if it’s tough to see through your camera viewfinder.

In truth, the background is an essential part of every portrait photo, whether you shoot at night or in bright daylight. A good background emphasizes and complements the main subject, while a bad background distracts the viewer and prevents them from fully appreciating the subject.

night portrait of a woman lit by street lamps

So if you want great shots, you’ve got to get the background right.

When preparing for a photoshoot, I’d recommend scouting around for potential backdrops. Search for lots of streetlights – which look stunning when combined with a wide aperture – as well as simple walls that’ll help your subject stand out.

And then, when you’re out shooting, always pay careful attention to the area behind your subject. Make sure that it doesn’t distract the viewer. And don’t be afraid to test out different backgrounds by changing your camera angle!

Gorgeous night background night portrait photography
Here, I used a wide aperture to achieve a nice, bokeh-filled background.

6. Start out with continuous lighting

I know I’ve talked a lot about using flash for beautiful night photos…

…but while flash is very versatile, portable, and powerful, it can be a difficult light source for beginners. You can’t see the effect of the flash until after an image is taken, which means that you’ll spend a lot of time guessing, checking, and adjusting your lights. Plus, getting the exposure right when using flash can be a struggle; you’ll often need to spend long minutes shifting the flash brightness up and down until you get a result you like.

Fortunately, there is another option:

Continuous lights. These will constantly light your subject and therefore allow you to monitor their effects in real-time.

You can grab portable continuous lights for a reasonable price, and while they aren’t as powerful as flash, they work great for nighttime portraits. Plus, continuous lights often offer color temperature adjustments, which let you match the light color to surrounding light sources for a more natural effect.

Now, for the best results, you’ll probably need to boost your ISO and/or widen your aperture. I’d suggest setting your exposure based on the background, then ask your subject to step into the frame and make adjustments as required.

For the image below, I used an LED panel. It produced warm, soft light that looked amazing:

night portrait photography

Pro tip: If your continuous lights don’t feature a brightness control, simply move the lights closer or farther from your subject!

7. Consider styling your subject

When you’re just starting out as a night portrait photographer, you’ll likely photograph your subjects as they are.

However, as you become more experienced, you may want to get someone to do their hair and makeup. You might even purchase stylish clothes for your subjects to make the shots look even better.

four young adults at sunset

Even if you just use friends as models, it’s a good idea to ensure they look professional – so guide them in picking out clothing from their wardrobe.

Of course, you’ll want to keep in mind the purpose of your night portraits. If you’re shooting fine-art images, then it’s okay to push drama and unorthodox clothing choices. However, if your goal is to capture nice portraits for your subject to hang on their wall, you may want to tone down the styling. Make sense?

woman in a red dress at night

Night portrait photography: final words

Hopefully, you now feel ready to capture some stunning night portraits.

So set up a photoshoot. Scout out locations. And have plenty of fun!

What night portraits do you plan to capture? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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Portrait Photography

The post 7 Tips for Stunning Night Portrait Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Sean McCormack.



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