[Photography] The 17 Best Photo-Editing Apps (in 2021)

The post The 17 Best Photo-Editing Apps (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Are you looking for the best photo-editing apps available in 2021? You’ve come to the right place.

In this article, I’m going to share my 17 favorite editing apps – including apps for general editing, apps for fun and filters, and apps for specialized editing.

So whether you’re a dedicated smartphone photographer or just looking to find some powerful ways to edit on the go, this list contains the perfect app for your needs.

Let’s get started.

The best photo-editing apps for general editing

In this section, you’ll discover the best photo-editing apps for general adjustments. With the apps on this list, you can adjust exposure, enhance colors, crop, sharpen, and more.

1. Snapseed

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Snapseed is one of the most popular photo-editing apps on the market – and for good reason. It’s very intuitive and easy to use, which makes it great for beginners. At the same time, Snapseed offers a lot of control for more skilled users.

You don’t need to pay any fees for using Snapseed, nor are there in-app upgrades; it’s completely free. So if you’re after a beginner-friendly photo editor that can do pretty much anything, Snapseed is a great choice.

2. Lightroom

• Cost: Limited version for free. Full version available with an Adobe subscription (from $9.99).
• Availability: iOS and Android

The free version of Lightroom Mobile lets you do most basic editing tasks. You can also access and create presets.

However, if you decide to upgrade, you’ll gain access to a healing brush, selective adjustments, geometry tools, and RAW editing. You can also use the camera from the app to shoot RAW images.

If you want to use Lightroom Mobile to speed up your workflow, check out this article.

3. Photoshop Express

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Adobe Photoshop is the industry standard for photo editing. Its mobile version is divided into three smaller and specialized apps; the basic editor is Photoshop Express.

Photoshop Express offers one-touch solutions such as an auto-fix option and filters. It also allows you to edit and retouch with total control. And it’s packed with many fun features such as stickers and collages.

You can crop to most platform’s formats and share directly from the app. While you don’t need an Adobe subscription to use Photoshop Express, you will need a free account.

4. Pixlr

• Cost: Limited version for free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Pixlr is a well-rounded editing app, offering all the post-processing essentials plus tons of presets and features to unleash your creativity.

There’s no need to create an account and you can download Pixlr for free, though you’ll be offered in-app purchases for overlays and stickers.

Pixlr also offers two great browser versions that you can use for free – or you can get a subscription for full access to both browser versions and other useful assets.

Best photo-editing apps for fun and filters

In this section, I’ll share the best photo-editing apps for filters and effects.

(In most cases, these apps also include a camera and some basic adjustments tools.)

5. VSCO

• Cost: Free limited version. $19.99/year for the full version.
• Availability: iOS and Android

VSCO works as a general photo editor, but it belongs in the fun and filter category thanks to its artsy, social-media-focused features.

To use VSCO, you will need to create a (free) account. After that, you can continue to use VSCO for free, but most of the filters are sold separately.

Alternatively, you can grab a yearly subscription for $19.99 that includes 200 filters (and you have a 7-day trial to make sure it’s worth it).

Your creations can then be shared with the community, which is like- and comments-free. In other words, the VSCO community is more about the quality of the work. You can also share VSCO creations directly from the app to other social networks such as Instagram or Snapchat.

6. Prisma Photo Editor

• Cost: Free limited version or free 3-day trial. Full version is $29.99/year.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Prisma is designed for art lovers. It’s more than just filters; Prisma uses artificial intelligence to turn your photos into artworks inspired by the greatest artists in history. And unlike other apps, Prisma adds new filters every day.

General editing is also possible (as it is with most filter apps). Though I do miss the rotation tool to correct the horizon if needed.

7. PicsArt Photo Editor

• Cost: 7-day free trial, then $34.99/year.
• Availability: iOS and Android

PicsArt Photo Editor is one of the most versatile editing apps on the market. You have a powerful in-app camera, plus tools and presets to no end. You can do anything with PicsArt, from professional applications like time-lapse photography to fun stickers and drawing.

PicsArt Photo Editor also has social media integration, as well as thematic contests that will spark your creativity.

8. A Color Story

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

A Color Story is the perfect app to manage your Instagram account. You can do some basic editing and apply filters to your images and videos.

New filter collections based on current trends are added often, although most do need to be purchased separately.

You can even plan your Instagram feed with the Grid feature. In fact, you can use this just to see how the feed looks after each picture you add, or you can connect it to your Instagram account for scheduling posts. That’s why A Color Story is great for maintaining a unified Instagram feed – whether you are a photographer, influencer, or community manager.

9. Afterlight Photo Editor

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Afterlight boasts 59 filters, 66 textures, and 77 frames for you to transform your images in a single click. Some of these tools are offered for a small fee, but there is also a wide variety of free, high-quality effects to choose from.

Afterlight can also handle basic editing tasks; the app has 15 tools to make most of the adjustments you’ll need.

The Crop tool is also quite versatile; it allows you to straighten, flip, and crop freehand and to many standard ratios.

10. Photo Lab Picture Editor

• Cost: 3-day free trial, then $9.99/year or $4.99/month.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Photo Lab is full of filters and effects; you can have fun or do some professional-looking work. You can even turn your photos into cartoons, and you can swap faces and make collages.

Photo Lab is an app designed to give free rein to your creativity. It’s also a social app with a big community of followers that’ll help you stay inspired.

Best apps for specialized editing

If you’re looking for the best photo-editing apps with dedicated features, this is the list for you:

11. Foodie

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

Although it has all the standard photo-editing tools, Foodie is designed primarily for food photography.

You can use Foodie’s in-app camera to take pictures (and you’ll get a live view of your selected filter). There are plenty of food filter series, including Fresh, BBQ, Yum, and more.

Once you’ve chosen a filter, you can compose your image using the smart grid. For flat lays, you’ll get a yellow band across the edges of the screen when the camera is perfectly level.

Foodie is only missing one key editing feature, but it’s a big one: a crop tool. You’ll either need to compose well from the beginning or have another photo editor on hand to deal with any cropping.

12. Photoshop Fix

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

This mobile version of Photoshop boasts Photoshop CC’s most popular portrait retouching tools. You get the main tools for basic retouching such as exposure, contrast, etc. And Photoshop Fix also offers a separate Light tool, which allows you to selectively adjust highlights and shadows.

But the real power is in the Liquify tool. With it, you can smooth the skin and even adjust expressions to make your subjects smile.

Photoshop Fix is free, but you will need to create an Adobe account.

13. SKRWT

• Cost: $1.99
• Availability: iOS and Android

If you like photographing architecture, real estate, or urban scenes, then you’re going to love SKRWT.

It’s a dedicated distortion-correction app, plus it has a powerful auto-cropping feature to ensure you get the best results.

And it corrects lens distortion regardless of whether the image was taken with an interchangeable lens camera, a GoPro, or your smartphone.

14. TouchRetouch

• Cost: $2
• Availability: iOS and Android

Removing unwanted objects from a photo is something we all have to deal with, no matter the genre of photography.

With TouchRetouch, you can use brush and lasso tools to select an object for removal. And if you’re removing a line (e.g., telephone wires in the background), you just need to tap; it will automatically be selected and removed.

TouchRetouch also has a clone tool, plus a feature called Quick Fix to remove blemishes. Many apps offer some kind of healing brush, but as a specialized app, TouchRetouch will get you the best results.

15. Photoshop Mix

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

If you aren’t a fan of other mobile versions of Photoshop, then you should try out Photoshop Mix.

You can work with layers to create cut-outs and photo composites. You can also work with texture overlays thanks to Photoshop Mix’s different blending modes.

As with the other Adobe apps on this list, you’ll need to create a (free) account to use Photoshop Mix, but you don’t need a subscription.

16. Motionleap (formerly Pixaloop)

• Cost: Free limited version, or one of three paid choices: $3.50/month, $18/year, or a one-time purchase of $55.
• Availability: iOS and Android

Have you seen pictures where everything is motionless – except for the water running or the coffee steam coming out of a cup? Well, Motionleap lets you create that effect with just a few taps and swipes.

You can also add filters, do some basic adjustments, and apply overlays. Keep in mind that the free version won’t let you export your projects and you won’t have all the tools available, so it’s worth considering a paid subscription.

17. Canva

• Cost: Free
• Availability: iOS and Android

If you use your photography for marketing purposes, then Canva is the app for you. It offers enough graphic design templates to fit your every need.

From creating an eye-catching Facebook post to designing an entire menu, Canva is intuitive and easy to use.

Many templates are free, though others must be purchased separately. Canva also has a browser version so you can access your projects on your computer, too.

Best photo-editing apps: final words

Well, that’s it:

The best photo-editing apps available in 2021! So start downloading your favorites.

And remember that you don’t need to pick just one; you can use two apps, three apps, or more to improve your editing workflow.

Do you like any other photo-editing apps? Are there apps that should be added to this list? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

FAQ

Are paid photo-editing apps better than free photo-editing apps?

No, there are excellent free choices such as Snapseed and Photoshop Express.

Should I have more than one editing app?

That depends on your needs. In my experience, it is useful to have different apps for different tasks.

What if I like smartphone photography but prefer to edit on my computer?

If you don’t like editing on your phone, you need to use an app that allows you to easily transfer pictures between your phone and your computer. You can use Lightroom for this (with an Adobe subscription). Another choice is to use a cloud service such as Dropbox.

What is the best photo-editing app?

I don’t think there’s one app that tops all the others; I think it’s about which one is best for you. That will depend on your phone, your budget, and your editing needs – plus your personal preference.

The post The 17 Best Photo-Editing Apps (in 2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

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[Photography] The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples)

The post The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

In this article, I’m going to answer all your questions about the rule of space in photography:

What it is. How it works. And how you can use it for amazing results.

Specifically, by applying the rule of space to photography, you can embrace the quieter moments in visual imagery – and you can amplify the impact of your subject by balancing positive and negative compositional elements.

Let’s dive right in.

Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2 | 1/8000s | ISO 500

What is the rule of space in photography?

The rule of space in photography is a method of incorporating visual absence to give a subject room to breathe.

Although the rule of space is more like a guide than a rigid rule, it is a handy compositional device. It’s a great way to add a sense of vastness, depth, and/or motion to a photograph.

Why is the rule of space important?

To understand the rule of space, we first need to take a brief look at positive and negative space.

Photographers use the terms positive space and negative space to contrast impactful and more subtle areas in a photograph.

Generally, positive space refers to specific subjects that command a viewer’s attention. Negative space, on the other hand, is less visually demanding and provides a frame for the main event in an image.

For example, in the image below, the clouds represent positive space, whereas the sky and dark shadows create the negative space that frames the main subject:

Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/500s | ISO 100

So where does the rule of space in photography fit in?

In general terms, the rule of space governs the use of negative space within an image. By understanding the nature of the rule of space, a photographer can harness the intent of a subject, as well as add depth and perspective to the image.

The rule of space is important because it aids a photographer in articulating the energy of a photograph – and it guides the viewer’s eye by sculpting key visual events and affording the subject more room to move.

Working with the rule of space: the basics

To work with the rule of space in photography, first consider the behavior of your subject.

Ask yourself: What is the subject doing? Is it moving or stationary? How does it occupy space?

At the same time, visualize what you want to convey in the photograph. Is it movement? Perspective? Depth? Narrative?

The nature and behavior of your subject plus your intent should together determine how you apply the rule of space.

Perspective

One of the main ways the rule of space can impact a photograph is through perspective. Abundant space around a subject can make the subject appear smaller or larger depending on the camera angle.

For example, a subject photographed from a high angle, surrounded with minimal detail, can seem smaller and more immersed in negative space:

Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/5.6 | 1/200s | ISO 100

Conveying momentum

The rule of space in photography can help you create the impression of movement.

To convey action, the rule suggests that space should be left either in front of or behind the subject (or both).

For example, if a subject is moving across a scene, you can aim to capture both the subject and the negative space surrounding the subject. The extra space conveys the subject’s movement, adding the momentum a tight crop may lack.

Allowing a subject room to move adds momentum.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/10 | 1/640s | ISO 250

Adding depth

The rule of space in photography is not limited to highly active subjects; it works for stationary subject matter, too!

For example, in portraiture, your composition can be governed by pairing the gaze or gesticulations of the subject with negative space. A subject’s gaze naturally directs our attention – we want to see what the subject sees.

But when a gaze is met by negative space, the viewer’s eye will often naturally return to the original source of the gaze. The rule of space provides an organic way of adding depth and directing viewer attention.

You can also use the rule of space with non-human/animal subject matter – based on their movement, perceived gesticulations, and extensions. By following the momentum, composition, or behavior of a non-human subject, you’ll find ideal placements for negative space.

In the example below, I surrounded several blossoms with negative space; this additional room suggests growth and depth. It also highlights the detail in the individual florets.

Leaving extra room around specific flower heads to articulate their elemental composition is one way to emphasize non-human subjects through the rule of space.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II with extension tubes | f/2.5 | 1/1250s | ISO 200

Rule of space challenges

The process of applying the rule of space to photographs is not that difficult in itself. However, a tendency to cram each image with as much visual information as possible can get in the way of exploring negative space.

Instead, deliberately and mindfully take a minimalist approach. You can also zoom out or physically take a few steps back from a subject to refocus on the rule of space.

Tips and techniques for working with the rule of space

Here are a few tips for working with the rule of space:

Tip 1: Use other compositional rules, too

Applying the rule of space to your photography doesn’t have to come at the cost of other compositional rules.

In fact, combining compositional tenets with the rule of space in photography can increase the chances of creating a successful photograph.

Compositional rules such as the rule of thirds, leading lines, depth of field, and repetition can all be used in conjunction with the rule of space to create engaging imagery.

Canon 5D Mark IV | Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM | f/5 | 30s | ISO 100

Tip 2: Let it breathe

The rule of space is all about giving a subject or a scene room to breathe.

So step back, zoom out, or even try a wider lens; that way, you can add a sense of spaciousness to your photos.

Tip 3: Experiment with different camera settings

Your choice of camera settings can help follow the rule of space more effectively.

For instance, you might use a shallow depth of field to surround a subject with negative space. You could also try using a slow shutter speed and panning your camera while leaving space before or after a subject to amplify movement.

You can amplify perspective with the rule of space in photography.
Canon 5D Mark II | Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM | f/5.6 | 1/125s | ISO 200

The rule of space in photography: conclusion

The rule of space aims to create a mindful harmony of positive and negative space.

And by applying this rule, you can emphasize and frame positive subject matter while generating an evocative balance of weight and weightlessness within an image.

So the next time you’re out with your camera, remember the rule of space – and do what you can to apply it in your images!

Now over to you:

Have you been using the rule of space in your photos? How are you going to change your compositions to improve your use of space? Share your thoughts (and photos!) in the comments below.

Rule of space FAQs

What is the rule of space?

In visual art, the rule of space guides your inclusion of negative space within an image.

What is negative space?

Generally, negative space refers to areas in a photograph that are not occupied by the main subject matter. Often, negative space serves as a frame to emphasize the key subjects in an image.

How do photographers use the rule of space in composition?

The rule encourages photographers to make use of negative space. There are many ways to do this. You can focus on coupling subjects with negative space by selecting minimalist backdrops, or you can pair the gaze of a portrait subject with additional negative space.

Who are some photographers that use the rule of space?

There are countless photographers who make use of the rule of space. For example, photographers Martin Parr and Helen Levitt made striking use of the rule, as well as Hiroshi Sugimoto, Michael Kenna, and Eric Kim.

When can I break the rule of space in photography?

Photography is all about developing personal creative instincts and approaches. That’s why compositional rules can be broken. The rule of space in photography is simply a guide – so if an image looks better without extra space, then go with your instincts. And if you aren’t sure, try taking a series of photos with different spatial approaches and analyze the results.

The post The Rule of Space in Photography: A Comprehensive Guide (+ Examples) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Megan Kennedy.

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[Photography] Full Frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained

The post Full Frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.

What’s the difference between full-frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds sensors? And how do these sensor differences affect your photos?

Thinking about camera sensors can get pretty confusing. That’s why I break it all down for you in this article – and I offer plenty of examples to illustrate the camera sensor effects.

So if you want to know, once and for all, how sensor type impacts your images, then let’s get started.

What is a full-frame vs an APS-C (crop) vs a Micro Four Thirds (MFT) camera?

The sensor is the part of a camera that actually captures an image. It takes in light, which it then converts to image data.

Now, different camera types offer different-sized sensors, and that’s the fundamental difference between full-frame, APS-C, and Micro Four Thirds cameras.

A full-frame camera contains a sensor size equivalent to 35mm film (36 mm x 24 mm). This is the largest sensor size marketed to photography consumers.

An APS-C camera, on the other hand, has a smaller sensor. The specifics depend on the camera brand, but the sensor size is generally around 23 mm x 15 mm.

Finally, there are Micro Four Thirds cameras, which contain Micro Four Thirds sensors; these are even smaller than APS-C sensors, clocking in at just 17.3 mm x 13 mm.

Now, apart from the physical sizes, there are several important differences between full-frame, APS-C, and Micro Four Thirds sensors.

So let’s take a look at the factors affected by sensor size, starting with:

Crop factor

Say you mount a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera. When you press the shutter button, it captures a 50mm image.

Makes sense, right? A 50mm lens captures a 50mm image. Simple.

But what if you mount a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera? Will it capture a 50mm image?

The answer is no.

Since an APS-C sensor is smaller than the full-frame sensor, the sensor crops the frame, giving you a result that looks zoomed in – as if you took the photo with a 75mm lens rather than a 50mm lens.

(Confused? Don’t be. The effect is similar to taking a photo with a 50mm lens, then heading home and cropping the image on your computer. You’ll get a tighter shot, one that looks like it was taken with a longer lens.)

And that is what the term crop factor means. It refers to the different crop effects created by different sensor sizes. A full-frame camera is the standard; it has no crop factor. An APS-C sensor (also known as a crop sensor), has a crop factor of 1.5x (on Nikon and Sony cameras) or 1.6x (on Canon cameras). The Micro Four Thirds crop factor is even stronger: 2x.

As I explained above, the crop factor affects your field of view. Look at the series of images below:

Left: Photo taken with a full-frame camera. Center: Photo taken with a crop-sensor camera. Right: Photo taken with a Micro Four Thirds camera.

The image on the left was taken with a full-frame camera. But apply the APS-C crop factor, and you get a tighter shot (the center image). Use a Micro Four Thirds camera, and you’ll get an even tighter result (the right image).

Focal length

A crop factor has a predictable affect on your lens’s focal length.

You see, the focal length measurement of any given lens is based on the standard 35mm film format. And since an APS-C camera (and a Micro Four Thirds camera) crop out the edges of the frame, you end up with an “effective” focal length that corresponds directly to the original focal length multiplied by the crop factor.

For example, a crop-sensor camera such as the Nikon D5600 has a crop factor of 1.5x. Thus, if I mount a 35mm lens on my Nikon D5600, it would multiply the focal length by 1.5x, effectively giving me a focal length output of around 52.5mm.

(But if you mount the same lens on a full-frame Nikon body such as the D850, it gives an output of 35mm.)

Similarly, if you mount a 35mm lens on a Micro Four Thirds camera – which has a crop factor of 2x – it effectively doubles the focal length to around 70mm.

Left: Photo taken at 35mm on a full-frame camera. Center: Photo taken at 35mm on a crop-sensor camera. Right: Photo taken at 35mm on a Micro Four Thirds camera.

Depth of field

As with focal length, a multiplier effect gets applied to the aperture when using APS-C and MFT cameras.

The aperture or f-stop is one of several factors determining the depth of field. Thus, a Micro Four Thirds camera gives us more depth of field when compared to a full-frame camera, assuming both cameras are using equivalent effective focal lengths. Same with an APS-C camera compared to a full-frame camera; you get more depth of field using the APS-C camera, assuming the effective focal length on both cameras is identical.

For example, an image shot at f/1.8 on a Micro Four Thirds camera gives an output similar to an image shot at f/3.6 on a full-frame camera and f/2.7 on a crop-sensor camera. This is assuming that the effective focal length and other shooting conditions stay the same.

Camera size

Full-frame sensors are larger than APS-C and Micro Four Thirds sensors.

So as you can probably guess, full-frame cameras tend to be far bigger and heavier than their APS-C and MFT counterparts.

For some photographers, this won’t matter much; if you shoot in the studio every day, a smaller Micro Four Thirds camera won’t offer much of an advantage.

But if you’re a travel photographer who needs to keep your gear as lightweight and compact as possible, a Micro Four Thirds body is a fantastic option.

Plus, APS-C and MFT cameras are more convenient. You can hang them on your neck or keep them in a backpack all day without feeling like you’re carrying a brick.

Low-light performance

Generally, full-frame cameras feature superior low-light and high-ISO performance. This results in much better image quality than crop-sensor (or Micro Four Thirds) cameras can achieve.

But why do full-frame cameras perform better in low light?

Full-frame cameras have larger sensors and are therefore capable of capturing more light than their smaller-sensor counterparts, which minimizes unwanted noise.

For instance, Micro Four Thirds cameras don’t perform well under low-light conditions where the ISO needs to be cranked up to, say, above 1600.

(Note that full-frame cameras also offer superior dynamic range, which allows you to capture more detail in a single shot.)

For these reasons, while full-frame cameras can be expensive, bulky, and annoying to carry around, they are still the industry standard and the preferred cameras for nearly all professional photography work.

Full frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds: conclusion

Now that you’ve finished this article, you should hopefully have a grasp on the differences between these sensor types – and why you might want to choose one sensor over another.

Just remember:

All three sensors – full frame, APS-C, and MFT – are very capable of capturing stunning photos.

So don’t worry too much about the differences.

Now over to you:

Do you have a favorite sensor type? Which of these three sensors does your camera use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Full Frame vs APS-C vs Micro Four Thirds: Camera Sensors Explained appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Kunal Malhotra.

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[Photography] How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

In this article, I’m going to show you a step-by-step process for doing stunning silhouette photography.

I’m also going to share tips and tricks that work really, really well for silhouette shooting; that way, you can get gorgeous results as soon as possible.

So if you’re ready to discover the secrets to amazing silhouettes, let’s dive right in!

Silhouette photography: the basics

Silhouettes are a wonderful way to convey drama, mystery, emotion, and mood. They often stand out thanks to their simplicity as well as the story that they convey.

I love silhouettes because they don’t give a clear picture of the scene. Instead, they leave part of the image up to the viewer’s imagination.

Now, here’s the basic strategy for doing silhouette photography:

Place your subject (the shape you want to be blacked out) in front of a light source.

Then force your camera to set its exposure based on the brightest part of your picture (i.e., the background).

In doing this, your subject will be underexposed. It should turn very dark and sometimes even black.

There are a lot of very technical discussions surrounding silhouette photography and how to get a particular exposure. But I’d like to ignore the technical details and focus on what matters:

Getting you a great result!

So without further ado, let’s take a look at the step-by-step process for stunning silhouettes:

How to Photograph Silhouettes

Before heading out to shoot silhouettes, make sure you have a camera that lets you adjust the exposure. In other words, you should be able to brighten and darken the photo at will.

(All modern DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have this functionality and so do most smartphones.)

Step 1: Choose a strong subject

Almost any object can be made into a silhouette. However, some objects are better than others.

Choose something with a strong and recognizable shape that will be interesting enough in its two-dimensional form to hold the viewer’s attention.

Silhouettes can’t draw on the colors, textures, and tones of subjects to make themselves appealing, so the shape needs to be distinct.

Step 2: Turn off your flash

If you have your camera in Auto mode, it’ll probably use flash – and this will ruin the silhouette.

Basically, silhouette photography requires as little light as possible on the front of your subject.

So make sure that your flash is off!

Step 3: Get your light right

When it comes to lighting your subject, you’ll need to throw out a lot of what you’ve learned about normal photography and think a little backward.

Instead of lighting the front of your subject, you need to ensure that there is more light shining from the background than the foreground of your shot. Or to put it another way, you want to light the back of your subject rather than the front.

The perfect setup is to place your subject in front of a sunset or sunrise – but any bright light will do the trick.

Step 4: Frame your image

Frame your shot so you are shooting with your subject in front of a plain but bright background.

The best backgrounds are often a bright, cloudless sky with a setting sun.

You want to position the brightest light source behind your subject (so that it’s either hidden or somewhere in the background).

Step 5: Make silhouetted shapes distinct and uncluttered

If there is more than one shape or object in the scene that you’re attempting to silhouette, try to keep them separated.

So if you’re making a silhouette from a tree plus a person, don’t position the person in front of the tree and don’t have the person lean against the tree, because this will merge the two shapes into one and cause confusion.

Also, when framing, you’ll probably want to photograph silhouetted people as profiles rather than looking straight on. That way, more of their features (nose, mouth, and eyes) are outlined, and the person becomes more recognizable.

Step 6: Feel free to start in Auto mode

Most modern digital cameras are pretty good at exposing a photo so that everything is nice and bright.

The problem is that most cameras are a bit too smart; they’ll light up your main subject instead of underexposing it to get a silhouette.

So what do you do?

You trick your camera.

You see, Auto mode generally determines the exposure levels when you push your shutter halfway down (at the same time that the camera focuses).

So point your camera at the brightest part of your scene, then press the shutter halfway down (and don’t let go!). Then move your camera back and frame your shot how you want it.

Finally, press the shutter button the rest of the way.

With most digital cameras, this will result in a silhouetted subject; by forcing your camera to expose for the brightest part of the scene, you cause it to render the main subject as a much darker silhouette.

Note that some digital cameras also have a spot metering mode that helps with the above technique. Spot metering sets the exposure meter on the central spot of your frame – so you can accurately tell your camera the exact portion of bright background you want to use to set the exposure.

Step 7: Manual mode

If the Auto mode technique doesn’t work, and if your camera has controls to allow manual exposure, you might want to adjust the settings manually.

A simple way to use Manual mode is to actually start in Auto. Point your camera at the brightest part of the sky, look at the shutter speed and aperture that your camera suggests, then switch over to Manual mode and dial in those settings.

Next, take a test shot and review it on your camera’s screen.

If your subject is too light (i.e., you need to make it darker), increase the shutter speed and see what happens. And if your subject is too dark, decrease the shutter speed to brighten up the shot.

Eventually, you’ll end up with a well-exposed silhouette!

(You can also use a bracketing technique to get a variety of shots at slightly different exposures.)

Step 8: Keep your subject sharp

In most cases, you’ll want your subject to be crisp and in focus.

Unfortunately, this can make the metering process – described in Step 6 – somewhat tricky. You see, pushing your shutter halfway down to get the metering right also means that you’ll focus on a spot in the background rather than your subject.

If you’ve used Manual mode, you can always focus on the background, acquire your exposure settings, dial them in, then refocus on your subject.

But if you prefer the Auto mode strategy, then you have two options.

First, if your camera has manual focusing, you can try prefocusing on your subject. Next, meter off the background. Frame up your composition, then trigger the shutter.

Second, you can try adjusting the aperture to maximize your depth of field (i.e., the amount of your image that is in focus).

For this, you’ll need to set a small aperture (i.e., a large f-number, such as f/11 or f/16) to increase the depth of field. If the f-number is large enough and your subject isn’t too close to the camera, you’ll end up with both a sharp subject and a sharp background, even if your camera is focused on the area behind your subject.

Bonus tip: try partial silhouette photography

While a total silhouette with a nice crisp and black subject can be powerful, also consider a partial silhouette where some detail of your subject is left, such as in the photo below:

Sometimes, a touch of light makes the subject slightly more three-dimensional and real.

And if you’re not sure whether to create a full silhouette or a partial silhouette, that’s okay; just bracket your shots! That’s the beauty of bracketing: it will leave you with both total and partial silhouettes to choose from.

Silhouette photography: conclusion

Well, there you have it:

How to photograph a silhouette in eight simple steps.

So head out when the light is right – and start doing some silhouette photography of your own!

Now over to you:

Have any silhouette photos you’d like to share? Post them in the comments below! And if you need inspiration, check out these 12 amazing silhouette example shots.

The post How to Photograph Silhouettes in 8 Easy Steps appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Darren Rowse.

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