[Photography] Where Are My Lightroom Photos, Presets, and Catalogs Stored? (2021)

The post Where Are My Lightroom Photos, Presets, and Catalogs Stored? (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Helen Bradley.

Are you struggling to determine where Lightroom stores your photos? Looking for your Lightroom catalogs? Need to identify the location of your presets?

In this article, I’m going to share quick, easy ways to determine where Lightroom has stored all of these items – photos, catalogs, presets, and more.

And by the end, you’ll know exactly where to find your files.

Let’s dive right in.

Where is my Lightroom catalog stored?

To find the storage location of your current Lightroom catalog, simply select Edit (Lightroom, if you’re on a Mac), then tap Catalog Settings:

Lightroom will display where your catalog is stored:

To open your catalog’s location, click Show:

You’ll be taken to your catalog folder. And if you look inside, you’ll see your .lrcat files, which contain your catalog data.

You can also find the location of your catalog by right-clicking on the Lightroom title bar, then selecting Show Catalog location:

Your catalog file will pop open (though note that you’ll be one level deeper in the folder hierarchy compared to the previous method).

Where are my Lightroom presets stored?

There are two simple methods of finding your Lightroom presets; the first will take you to the folder containing all of your presets, while the second will take you to the location of an individual preset.

Method 1

To find where your Lightroom presets are stored, select Edit>Preferences (Lightroom>Preferences if you’re on a Mac):

The Preferences window will open. Select the Presets tab:

Finally, select the Show Lightroom Develop Presets button (depending on your version of Lightroom, this might instead say Show Lightroom Presets Folder):

And you’ll immediately be taken to your preset storage location.

Note: You’ll need to click to see each individual preset folder:

Method 2

To find the location of an individual preset, here’s what you do:

First, open the Lightroom Develop module:

Then navigate to your Presets panel on the left-hand side:

Right-click on a preset, then select Show in Explorer:

Lightroom will instantly open the preset in its corresponding folder:

And you’ll be able to see many of your other presets, as well.

This is useful for situations when you’ve created your own preset and want to share it with others. You simply need to find the preset file, then share it!

Where are my Lightroom photos stored?

Lightroom is a catalog program, which means that it doesn’t actually store your images – instead, it simply records where your images are stored on your computer, then stores your edits in the corresponding catalog.

In other words, the images you import into Lightroom are located exactly where you chose to store them on your hard drive, USB drive, etc., and not in your Lightroom catalog.

So to find the location of a photo, simply right-click on its thumbnail, and select Show in Explorer (or Show in Finder for Mac users):

The relevant folder will appear with your image selected.

You can also see where an image exists inside Lightroom by right-clicking on that image, then selecting Go to Folder in Library:

This will switch you over to the Library module and select the folder in which your image is stored:

(Note that the selected folder corresponds to the actual hard drive location of your file.)

Why are my images stored in that location?

When you import photos into Lightroom, you’re given three broad options:

Copy, Move, or Add.

You can copy the photos, which creates a copy of each file in the selected location but leaves the originals alone. Then, when you ask Lightroom to show the location of the images, it will display the location of the copies.

You can move the photos, which deletes the originals and copies the files into your new selected location.

Or you can add the photos, which leaves the originals in place and makes no copy of the files; instead, Lightroom just records where you’ve stored your images. In this case, the images will stay where you initially stored them.

Where are Lightroom backups stored?

When you back up your Lightroom catalog, the actual catalog is backed up, but not your photos.

By default, the backup of your catalog is stored in the same location as your Lightroom catalog (in a folder called Backups).

However, if you want the exact backup location, or you’re struggling to find your backup folder, simply select Edit>Catalog Settings (or Lightroom>Catalog Settings on a Mac):

Then switch the Back up catalog option to When Lightroom next exits:

That way, the next time you exit Lightroom, you’ll see your backup folder location:

And you can also change the backup location if you like (by selecting a different folder).

Lightroom photos, presets, and catalog storage: conclusion

Hopefully, you now know the exact location of your Lightroom files.

So you should be ready to do anything you might need – such as move catalogs, find photos, and more.

Good luck!

The post Where Are My Lightroom Photos, Presets, and Catalogs Stored? (2021) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Helen Bradley.

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[Photography] 12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography

The post 12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

Feeling frustrated with indoor photography? Want to know how you can capture beautiful indoor photos with only natural light?

Working with natural light indoors can be tricky. So in this article, I’m going to share plenty of tips and tricks I use in my own photography. And I’ll also share plenty of examples along the way – so that you can see my advice in action!

Let’s dive right in.

1. It’s all about the windows

Indoor photography comes with a significant problem:

A lack of light. And without light, you can’t get beautiful, well-exposed photos.

So what do you do? Some photographers turn to artificial lighting, such as studio strobes and flashes. But I prefer to keep things natural, which is why I look for light coming through windows, and I use it to illuminate my subject.

In fact, as soon as you’ve chosen a subject, walk around your indoor space. Think about the quality of light that the different windows provide; does it flood the room softly? Does it beam in, bouncing off the walls and floors? How would it look when illuminating your subject?

Soft light will add a soft glow, and harsh light will give a dramatic or moody look.

Also recognize that the color of light changes throughout the day. Light looks warm at sunrise, cool at midday, and warm at sunset.

Once you know indoor lighting well, you’ll be able to use it to achieve the perfect effects.

2. Turn off the lights

Natural light doesn’t like competition.

Specifically, natural light doesn’t like electric lights, which cause two problems:

1. Electric lights cast unexpected shadows and will interfere with the directionality of your main window light.
2. Electric lights produce warmer or cooler illumination, which contrasts with the color of the natural light.

In particular, skin tones can look odd when artificial and natural light start to mix.

The easiest way to fix this?

Just turn off all electric lights! That way, you can keep your colors looking natural while focusing on a single light source.

3. Shoot in Aperture Priority mode

In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture while your camera chooses the shutter speed. This gives you flexibility over your exposure without stepping over into the Wild West of Manual mode.

Aperture Priority is generally marked with an AV or an A, as shown below:

So what settings should you dial in for the best indoor natural light photography?

I’d recommend starting with a wide-open aperture to let in lots of light. Choose a low f-number such as f/2.8 or f/1.8 to keep your exposure nice and bright.

Plus, when you use a wide aperture, your depth of field will be shallow. So your subject will stay in focus while your background is left soft and blurry. This adds a beautiful effect to portrait, nature, and product shots.

Note that, for portraits, an aperture of around f/5.6 or f/6.3 will keep the entire face in focus (though this will depend on your focal length and your distance from the subject). Focus on your subject’s eyes for best results.

Also, shoot in RAW. A RAW file will give you a lot more to work with when editing – so you can enhance your indoor photos for stunning results.

4. Choose your white balance in advance

Some photographers like to select their white balance during post-processing (so they’ll leave their camera set to Auto White Balance when shooting).

But while this can work, it’s often easier to get the white balance right before taking a photo (plus, it’ll save you lots of time during editing).

So take your camera off Auto White Balance. Observe the light and consider which white balance preset works best for your situation.

For instance, I generally use Daylight for indoor portrait photography, though you might also pick Cloudy for a warmer look. And the other white balance presets can work, too, depending on the effect you’re after.

Honestly, I’d recommend you try several different white balance settings when first starting out – that way, you can determine which looks you like and which looks you’d prefer to avoid.

(Always bear in mind, however, that the white balance results will change depending on the quality of the light. Applying a Cloudy white balance to a shot lit by cloudy light will give a neutral look, while applying a Cloudy white balance to a shot lit by warm evening light will actually enhance the warm effect.)

And remember:

If all else fails, you can always adjust your white balance while editing.

5. Use a light-catching backdrop

Remember how I said that indoor settings tend to lack light?

That’s why you’ll need to maximize existing light. And a simple way to do this is with a reflective backdrop.

Specifically, a white backdrop will help catch the light and bounce it back onto your subject. Here’s the type of setup I’m talking about:

The white material helps cradle the light around the flowers:

And creating a simple light-catching backdrop isn’t hard, either. The one featured in the above photo was made with a freestanding collapsible clothes rack and a long piece of white material.

(It’s very easy to set up and very easy to move around!)

6. Use a light box

A light box will create a similar effect as a reflective backdrop, but it will help control the light even more.

In fact, you can construct a light box with lots of cloth – but instead of putting it behind your subject, wrap it all around. Here’s a makeshift light box I used for this food still life:

And here’s the final image:

7. Use a reflector

A reflector bounces light back toward your subject.

And it’s a great way to keep your entire subject nicely lit.

For the shots below, I set up a backdrop and positioned my daughter so that her left side faced the window. She held a reflector in her right hand, which helped lighten the shadows:

And here’s a behind-the-scenes photo:

8. Use a mirror

A mirror is another great way to control natural light. Simply hang a mirror in the window; I used a large suction cup with a hook to hang the mirror pictured below:

Then have your model look in the mirror. As you take your shot, make sure your reflection doesn’t appear. (It can take some patience to get the angles and reflections under control, but it’s worth it.)

I used a small handheld mirror for this shot. A larger mirror would require less cropping:

9. Tidy up

There are often things lying around the house, especially if you have kids. And this clutter can be distracting in a photograph. It’s worth taking a couple minutes to tidy up before you start shooting.

In fact, a backdrop can serve a double purpose here: it can control light, while also covering up all the background clutter! It can help make a small space more workable.

For most of the photos in this article, I pushed our sofa and table into the middle of the living room, then I set up in front of our largest window. Without the backdrop, this location would look far too busy.

10. Place your subject close to the window

Earlier in this article, I talked about the importance of windows when doing indoor photography.

But it’s not enough to just use windows. You also need to carefully position your subject.

Specifically, place your subject a foot or two away from the light source. That way, you’ll make use of the natural light, and you’ll also avoid the harsh contrast that comes from being too close to the window.

One more tip:

Experiment with lighting effects. Try backlighting, sidelighting, and frontlighting (just have your model face in different directions and follow them with your camera!).

11. Use the curtains

If the light is harsh, you’ll get unpleasant shadows and contrasty subjects – unless you can diffuse it!

So here’s what I recommend:

Use curtains or blinds!

If you have translucent curtains, let them cover the window completely. If your curtains are opaque, consider closing them partway, then let the light feather onto your subject.

Alternatively, if your curtains aren’t suitable for diffusing the light, you could hang a piece of diffusive material over your curtain rods.

12. Shoot reflective objects

Natural light can turn the most common thing (like the moisture on the window pictured below) into something beautiful.

Personally, I think reflective objects look gorgeous when hit by sunlight. Here are just a few examples:

So have fun playing around with reflective objects and natural light. The light will create all sorts of interesting reflections, and it’ll even glisten off shiny objects:

Indoor natural light photography: You’ve got to love it!

It’s easy to love indoor natural light photography.

The setup is inexpensive, portable, and easy to use, plus you can create beautiful photos no matter the weather or time of day. 

Don’t forget to have fun and let that inner beauty shine through!

Now over to you:

Have you tried indoor natural light photography? Let me know how your natural light shoots go by commenting below!

The post 12 Tips For Gorgeous Indoor Natural Light Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Dena Haines.

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[Photography] The Best ND Filters You Can Buy in 2021 (9 Picks)

The post The Best ND Filters You Can Buy in 2021 (9 Picks) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Choosing the best ND filter isn’t just about buying whatever option is the most expensive. While some pricier filters certainly use higher-quality components than their cheaper counterparts, there are a variety of factors to consider when looking at neutral density filters.

These small pieces of dark glass can work wonders for your photography and are a great way to add a splash of creativity to your shots or see things in a way you never thought possible. But if you are overwhelmed by the options and aren’t sure where to start, this list of the nine best ND filters should help point you in the right direction.

Shot with a 10-stop ND filter.
Nikon D750 | 50mm f/1.8G | f/16 | 15s | ISO 100

Before we get too far into the list, know that there are many ND filter varieties and options that can suit your needs. ND filters perform a specific task, but they go about it in different ways – and what works for one person might not always work for another. So this list is designed to help you determine the best ND filters for specific needs, budgets, and quality levels.

It’s also important to know that ND filters come in many sizes, designed to suit different lenses. Most lenses have a screw-on thread size (you can find this printed on the lens itself). When purchasing an ND filter, you’ll need to ensure that the filter thread size matches your lens thread size.

Generally speaking, smaller filters will be less expensive, so think of the prices of the filters featured in this article as a rough estimate. The exact price of a filter for your lens will vary. To facilitate easier comparisons in terms of price, most of the filters here are 58mm, but don’t just buy a 58mm filter (or any other size) without checking your lens first.

1. Best ND filter for new users: Tiffen ND Filter Kit

If you are just getting started with ND filters and aren’t sure what you want to do with them, you can’t go wrong with Tiffen’s basic set. It’s inexpensive and includes three separate filters that let you block a small – but not insignificant! – amount of light.

The 4-stop filter is great for trying longer exposures in well-lit situations, whereas the 2-stop filter is nice if you want to use a prime lens wide open in bright light but your camera can’t support ultra-fast shutter speeds like 1/8000s.

Construction quality on Tiffen filters is decent but not outstanding, and while these filters might produce an unsightly color cast, it can be corrected easily in post-processing (just make sure you’re shooting in RAW).

Pros

• Relatively inexpensive
• Contains three separate filters
• Includes carrying case

Cons

• Subpar image quality
• Average build

2. Best inexpensive ND filter: Neewer ND Filter Kit

For photographers who are more concerned about price than anything else, this set of Neewer ND filters is the way to go. Neewer is well-known in the photographic community for producing decent-quality-yet-inexpensive gear, and this filter set is no exception.

The Neewer ND Filter Kit won’t win any awards for quality, but the variety of filters included in the kit leaves room for a great deal of experimentation. Also, you can stack filters to produce even longer exposures; simply put one on your lens, then screw another onto that filter. This lets you test out very long exposures in bright light, with the significant caveat that your image quality will take a big hit (expect your pictures to take a major dip in sharpness and have a deep green or red color cast when stacking).

However, for budget-conscious photographers, these tradeoffs might be well worth it considering the cheap price.

Pros

• Very inexpensive
• Kit includes four filters, which is great for learning and experimenting
• Filters can be stacked to block out even more light

Cons

• Subpar image quality
• Average build quality
• Stacking filters results in a severe loss of sharpness

3. Best midrange ND filter: Hoya 3-Stop ND Filter

Why purchase a single ND filter when you can buy multiple filters for an equivalent price? The answer really comes down to two things: image quality and construction quality.

This Hoya filter is only three stops, so it won’t let you get super long exposures in bright daylight, but image quality is superior compared to some of the less expensive options on this list. It also has a special coating to reduce glare and other image artifacts, plus it undergoes a higher level of quality control to minimize problems more common in cheaper filters.

Pros

• Good image quality
• Good build quality
• Negligible color cast in final images

Cons

• Coating does not resist dust and scratches as effectively as more expensive filters
• Can be difficult to attach and remove if not careful

4. Best semi-professional ND filter: B+W 6-Stop ND Filter

B+W filters strike a nice balance between image quality, construction of materials, and price. So while this 6-stop filter isn’t the most expensive option out there, it’s a significant upgrade from the cheaper ND filters on this list in a few key areas.

For instance, image quality is improved; you will see almost no green or magenta color cast in your images, unlike cheaper filters that often come in kits. And six stops of light-blocking power give you the freedom to create interesting images and play around with longer exposures without stacking several filters on top of each other.

Pros

• Reduces light transmission more than less expensive filters
• Great image quality
• Very good build quality
• Easy to screw on and off a lens

Cons

• High price may dissuade beginner and casual photographers

5. Best budget 10-stop ND filter: B+W 10-Stop ND Filter

If you really want to go all-out with longer exposures but don’t want to go broke in the process, I highly recommend this 10-stop filter from B+W.

Image quality is excellent – you’ll notice a slight color cast that can be easily fixed if you shoot RAW – and build quality is outstanding. 10 stops of light-blocking power let you shoot in broad daylight for several seconds even at larger apertures. You can get creative with long exposures, and by closing down your aperture and leaving the shutter open for 20 or 30 seconds, you can eliminate moving objects and passersby.

I really enjoy using this filter, and it’s a great step up from other less expensive options on this list.

Pros

• Relatively inexpensive compared to other 10-stop ND filters
• Good build quality

Cons

• Slight color cast to images compared to more expensive options
• Can be difficult to remove from the lens if over-tightened

6. Best budget variable ND filter: Bower Variable ND Filter

Variable ND filters solve an interesting problem faced by many photographers: how to block different amounts of light without physically altering your gear. Variable ND filters let you turn a ring on the filter itself to adjust its light-blocking power, so there’s no need to buy multiple filters or attempt filter stacking.

The Bower Variable ND filter is a great entry point for people who want to use this type of filter without spending much money. Image quality on variable ND filters like this one is not as good compared to a solid ND filter, but if you value convenience over sharpness, then the tradeoff is worth it. I wouldn’t recommend doing professional work with this inexpensive filter, but for new users who want a good option without spending a lot of money, this Bower filter fits the bill.

Pros

• A great way to explore variable ND filters without spending too much money
• Pretty good image quality
• Very versatile, with adjustments from 2 to 8 stops of light

Cons

• Build quality isn’t as good as more expensive options
• Overall image sharpness is lacking

7. Best 10-stop ND filter: PolarPro QuartzLine ND Filter

If money is no object and you value image quality above all else, this PolarPro filter is the perfect choice. Like its less-expensive B+W counterpart, it blocks 10 stops of light for very long exposures in bright light, but it also comes with several quality-of-life improvements that many photographers will appreciate. These include rock-solid image construction, thickly-knurled edges to help grip the filter as you screw it on and off, and special coatings to reduce problematic image artifacts as well as protect against damage from dust and water.

I don’t recommend this ND filter for beginners, but if you are looking for a significant step up from the less-expensive options on this list, the PolarPro is a stellar buy.

Pros

• Outstanding build quality
• Big, chunky knurled edges make it easy to attach and remove
• Excellent image quality

Cons

• Very high price

8. Best graduated ND filter: Hoya Graduated ND10

Normal ND filters have one key limitation: they block light uniformly across the entire lens, which can be problematic in some scenarios (e.g., when a scene features a significantly brighter foreground than background or vice versa). Enter graduated neutral density filters, which block varying degrees of light across the frame.

This Hoya Graduated ND filter is a great option for landscape photographers who want a darker sky but a lighter foreground (and other such tricky scenarios). The Hoya blocks light gradually from three stops to one stop, is built from quality materials, and won’t break the bank like other, more expensive options.

Pros

• Smooth, even gradations from dark to light
• Very good image quality
• Direction of gradations can be easily altered after the filter is attached to a lens

Cons

• Price is a bit higher than what some beginners would want to spend

9. Best 15-stop ND filter: Lee ProGlass IRND 4.5

The Lee ProGlass IRND is big, expensive, and won’t work without a special holder that attaches to the front of your camera lens. It’s impractical for most people, but it’s also the best option available for photographers who want to block out a lot of light.

This 15-stop filter lets you capture extraordinarily long exposures in broad daylight; shutter speeds are measured in minutes rather than seconds. Moving objects will disappear from your final shots, and the surface of any body of water will be transformed into smooth glass.

This 15-stop filter is not for the faint of heart – but for those willing to spend some money and put in the time and effort to learn how to use it, the results are phenomenal.

Pros

• Excellent build quality
• Outstanding image quality
• Comes with an exposure guide for calculating very long shutter speeds

Cons

• Very expensive
• Requires the use of a filter holder (which must be purchased separately)
• Not as convenient or easy to use as a screw-on filter

Best ND filter: conclusion

The setting sun combined with a 3-stop ND filter made it possible for me to shoot a long exposure and smooth out the surface of the water while capturing motion in the clouds.
Fuji X100F | 23mm | f/16 | 30s | ISO 200

Neutral density filters are a great way to experiment with fun, creative ideas and explore new photographic possibilities. If you’ve never used an ND filter, I recommend getting one of the less expensive options on this list to see what you have been missing, and if you are a seasoned professional, you might consider a graduated ND filter or even a Lee 15-stop filter to really expand your horizons.

No matter what type of photographer you are, there should be at least one option on this list of best ND filters that is right for you.

Now I’d love to see some of your long-exposure shots and hear your thoughts on your favorite ND filters. Leave photos and share your opinions in the comments section below!

Best neutral density filter FAQ

My camera has a built-in ND filter. Can I use that instead of buying a separate ND filter?

You can, of course, use the ND filter that is built into your camera, but these typically only block 2-3 stops of light. That’s enough to do some experimenting, but you won’t be able to get ultra-long exposures in broad daylight. For that, you will need a separate ND filter such as one of the options on this list.

When are the best times to use an ND filter?

This is really a matter of personal preference, but I like to use ND filters to get smooth motion with water. Some people use them to remove moving objects when shooting static subjects, like a monument or a sculpture. Another great option is to use them when shooting portraits in bright light; you can then work with wider apertures without reaching the limit of your camera’s shutter speed.

Will an ND filter protect my lens?

Yes, but that’s not their primary purpose. If you want to shield your lens from dirt and scratches, look into a UV filter or a clear filter. You can then attach an ND filter on top, though image sharpness will decrease just a bit as a result.

Do I have to shoot in RAW when using ND filters?

No, but I do recommend it. Shooting in RAW makes it easy to adjust the exposure of your image, fix green or magenta color casts, and clean up spots from dust on the lens. The latter is usually not visible with larger apertures, but when shooting long exposures it’s common to stop down your lens, which makes small imperfections on your lens easier to see in the final image.

The post The Best ND Filters You Can Buy in 2021 (9 Picks) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

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